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I've got all my codes and such. I know that a bad camshaft sensor will make the car hard to start (when it's warm and such.) As I understand this sensor tells the ECU when cylinder 1 nears TDC and in effect tells the injector when to inject gas. Hence the result of not starting easily when bad. So, could this sensor (when bad) miss the timing of TDC and cause the engine to stall because of inproper fuel mixture?

Could a bad camshaft position sensor cause engine to stall at idle?

I had a '93 Legacy auto that had slow and harsh shifts from 1-2-3. Put some Lucas Trans Fix in. Made no difference at all.

Just had a similar problem (hesitation, bad idle) with my '96. Wasn't until I replaced the wire set that all was fixed. You might give it a try. A lot cheaper than MAF, so I'd start there.

I bought a can of MAF cleaner the other week to try and fix a hesitation problem. Took the MAF off and sprayed it down good. It looked exactly the same when I put it on as when I took it off. So if it cleaned it I couldn't tell. In the end it didn't help nor hurt anything. (New wire set fixed hesitation problem, I was misfiring because of an arc jump.) But for $6 you could try the cleaner, might just help your problem.

To me, the best is the '96 Outback. The EJ22 only came in manual. And the last year for the hill holder, quite helpful when at a stoplight on a steep hill, which are aplenty hereabout. I've owned a '91 and '93 Legacy wagon with auto before my '96 OBW. I like the refined dash layout of the later generation and never did like the auto seatbelts. The extra clearance helps in the snow up in the mountains. As does the 50/50 AWD. As mentioned above, it's OBDII, so easy to track down problems when they arise.

'96 Legacy OBW EJ22 5sp I'm finally getting motivated to fix this MAF hesitation problem. I dont' want to deal with is when there's snow in the passes (ski season). But just this week I've also gotten a little whine (sounds like a bird) with the chugs from 2k-3k rpm. I certainly need to finish the full precedure: pcv, wires, front o2 sensor, and MAF. But about the whine: must be vaccum? I also get a high pitched whine above 5.5k rpm. (not that I'm there much.) I've looked high and low and cannot find a vacuum leak. Neither brake cleaner or starter fluid make a change in rpms when sprayed around the engine compartmant. I can't even find the infamous hose under the air filter box. I just hope a new used MAF clears up all the issues.Should I buy new? Or can I trust a used one? If anybody has a working MAF (AA160F) let me know.

Is the MAF serviceable? Or does it need to be replaced? 1stsubaruparts.com lists MAF sensor at $280.

Brake cleaner will cause RPMs to go down? Or up?

No not always. I'll look into cleaning the IAC and check for vacuum leaks with some starting fluid. Is there any paticular method for this or just spray the starting fluid at each vacuum hose connection?

It's happened twice. Waiting at stoplight and the car dies. Not a whole lot of sputtering, engine just dies. Takes a few series of cranking to get it started. Of course it could be a host of issues. But suggestions of things to check/replace from cheapest to spendy? I've replaced plugs within last 1000 miles. Replaced air filter within 3000 miles. Thanks.

Any idea of what needs to be checked/ replaced for codes P0113 and P0118 (Intake Air Temperature Circuit High Input / Engine Coolant Temperature Circuit High Input)?

Ordered a replacement sensor from Aaron's Subaru parts. Quite a tight spot to get to, to replace this. Anybody remember what tool they used to get in there, or what they had to remove to make the job easiest? Looks like the sensor is 19mm. Thought maybe a crow's foot wrench might work. But before I go buy one thought I'd seek advice. Thanks in advance.

My ignition switch is acting up in '96 Outback. Key slides in fine. Having trouble turning key. I find that I have to lift the key up and down before getting it to click out of lock into the Acc or Start position. I've tried spare keys and get the same result. Something loose in the ignition? Can it be serviced? Or do I need to replace the whole thing.? I owned a previous Legacy that had a different key for the ignition than the doors. The previous owner didn't say specifics other than that the ignition went bad and he had to replace it.

Having trouble starting with warm engine. Proabably the engine coolant sensor. Waiting for next paycheck to replace it. However, I also have sympton of car idling high (2000 rpm or so) when I pull up to stoplight after downshifting into 2nd. Idle returns back to normal after a second of too. Could this be from the bad engine coolant temp sensor or does that only affect fuel mix when starting?

Anybody know what Subaru stated the weight capcity was for a factory roof rack? The sticker on mine has worn off. Thanks.

Put in a pair of XtraVision two weeks ago. Very happy with them for the price.

According to cars101.com (http://www.cars101.com/outback_archive95-97.html) my Gen 1 OBW has a clearance of 7.3 inches versus 6.7 for similar model year Explorer. In fact, the Explorer is the only SUV listed with less than 7 inches clearance.

Check online vendors. A few years back I bought a Dynomax for around $90 with s/h. Quality was better than OEM.

All the OBD II code readers I've looked at will turn off the CEL. I got mine on ebay for under $50 with s/h. Never tried just disconnecting the battery though.

Anybody know where the relay for the seat heater is located?

Buy an OBD II reader. I got mine off ebay for less than $40 with s/h. I get the P0420 code and have been resetting the CE light until I have time to replace the O2 sensor. In any case I'd like to hear what you end up finding out.

Can't tell if the little plastic grills in front of the speakers are the access point to remove the speakers or if I have to remore the whole door panel. I tried prying them but they didn't want to come off. Figured I'd ask before I broke some plastic.

That's a good bet since I did head into the snow this past weekend. Lots of residual snow from the xmas tree and sorel boots. In fact, the previous owner had the car in Boston the first five years of it's life. And they definately use salt in those parts. The seat bolts on the passenger side aren't experiencing the rust residue. I jsut bought rubber floor mats (costco) and am thinking they are good in the fact that they hold rain and water from soaking though. But they also trap moisture underneath.

No smell of coolant. My dampness could have been from melting snow from the other day underneath my new rubber mats that wouldn't have let the carpet dry out. Rust around the bolt is from previous owner's doings. Could have been a similar circumstance over the years. I'll just have to keep an eye on the dampness.