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Thanks for all the info! Hopefully this week I will be able to do a little more research and see what I can come up with. If all else fails, I will just get 185/70/13 tires and just lift it sooner I will post back later, and hopefully I will have some good news!

Are you talking about the goodyear marathons (I think that is what they are called)? I have only found those in a "trailer" tire... but I will check out wal-mart on that one. Anybody else have any luck with this size?

Hello all, I am looking to buy new tires for my loyale and I would like to get 185/80/13 tires but I am having no luck in finding any store with this size. I have 185/70/13 on it right now and I would like something a little bigger. I know that you can get a good 185/70/13 from just about anywhere, just not the 185/80/13. From what I have read manufactures have basically stopped making this size tire. Is this true? If anyone has purchased this size tire recently, could you tell me where? Like I said, I have search these forums and google with no luck so any help would be greatly appreciated! Thanks!

Good to see another new '90 Loyale AWD Turbo wagon owner! I picked mine up about 2 weeks ago with under 200,000 miles on it. I love it so far. As for the more info, here's a link to the ae82 fsm, ae82 gregory's manual, and HTKYSA. Download the PDF's and print them if you can. Each of these manuals is about 300 pages though. I just happen to work some where I can print that much and it's ok. But I digress. They have SO MUCH info on the car it's not even funny. There's info in there on how to change the idle RPM. There's an idle adjustment screw behind the manifold, just in front of the spare tire. There are good pics in the manuals mentioned above. Mine was idling pretty high, so I turned it down a little, and it's much better. It took me a while to find/track down these manuals, so enjoy them and thanks to all the forum members for posting them! All credit goes to them. The biggest thing that I have read and that has already been said here is to replace the radiator. Heat KILLS the heads on the ae82t. Buy a 2 core one and put that in. Search the forums for more info on that. I have also read to not try to get more boost/power out of the engine, ie change the waste gate, up the boost, etc.. It just makes it more unstable. I plan on running stock boost always. No need to stress the little engine anymore than it already is! I also installed a boost gauge to make sure that the turbo is producing the correct amount of boost and functioning properly. The boost gauge also will work in helping to spot problems early on because you can tell when it's not boosting the way it should. Another thing that I am going to be doing very soon is flushing all the fluids in the car. Transmission (drain and fill 3 times), diffs, oil, radiator, power steering, brakes, all of them. I think that I am also going to be running some seafoam through the engine also. Read up on the pros and cons of seafoam in the forums, I don't want to start a debate on that I think that it will do my engine some good, so I am going to do all of that. That way I also know that all the fluids are good. That is all the advice that I have read on the turbo. I am just going to run in stock, not drive it super hard, and just enjoy the little extra power that I get out of it having a turbo, and I expect to have a long life out of this motor and the car.

Ok, I have driven about 600 miles so far, and I have not had any problems with the dipstick popping out so I would say that I have solved this issue Quick recap. My tranny dipstick was popping out while I was under boost. The tranny vent hoses were connected to the intake manifold, and therefore when I produced boost, it was blowing into the tranny, causing the dipstick to be pushed out. Disconnecting the vent hoses from the manifold solved the problem! Thanks everyone for your help in solving this!

Same place as on post #22. I just removed the cap I put on it and replaced it with the boost line that I ran for the gauge...

That link didn't work... but I think that I found one that does. I grabbed them off of this link: http://www.finleyweb.net/JonsStuff/SubaruDocumentation/tabid/54/Default.aspx Is this the same thing? This doesn't include the transmission Anyone know where I can get the service manual for that? Thanks!

When I first got my car, the A/C belt wasn't attached so the A/C wasn't working, and when I put it on "heat" the car would jump up to 2000 rpm at idle and stay there never going back to "normal" until I changed the setting. When I put the A/C belt on and the A/C started working, this behavior stopped. Now while idling, every few minutes the rpms jump up to 1300 or so, but that normal in older cars. My 1985 MR2 did this when it had A/C. I only had an issue when my A/C was not working. I have been running my A/C during the winter for years. I hate foggy windows Just my 2 cents...

Update: So I was looking for a better spot to tap into for my boost gauge, and I decided to try the "mystery" nipple that the tranny vent hoses were connected to. I figured what would it hurt, and that way I could see what it did. After I attached it, I went for a drive, and sure enough it's a direct reading off the intake manifold so when I was at full boost, it was pushing 7lbs of boost into the tranny !!!! No wonder the dipstick was being pushed out! So now that is where I am going to keep my boost gauge connected to. So far it's given me the most stable reading on boost/vacuum out of all the spots I tried. After all the driving I am going to do this weekend, I will update again...

Good tip. I will try that this weekend. So far the dipstick has behaved it's self. I took it to Seattle today and back, and did have a problem! I haven't noticed any problems with anything after disconnecting the hose, so I think that it's all good. After I get a chance to double check/clean everything I will post back and mark this solved if it checks out. Thanks again everyone for saving me a trip to the mechanic!

I knew that the transmission was electronic, but I know nothing about transmissions so I didn't know it wouldn't have vacuum lines I have already run the short hoses for the vents, and I have also capped off the nipple it was connected to. Where would I find the FSM for this car? I have never heard of an FSM before. Do you happen to have a more detailed picture of the transmission? Thanks!

Anybody have any ideas on this?? I just want to make sure that nothing is going to get messed up. Any more ideas would be great! Thanks all for the help and support so far!

Ok, so I disconnected the hose from the motor and went on the same drive that I did yesterday, and the dipstick didn't get pushed out like it did yesterday!! But I don't want to be too excited yet, I have to put some more miles on it to make sure it's solved. There is a couple of things that I noticed when I disconnected the hose. First, the hose was about 2 size larger then the nipple it was connected to, hence the hose clamp on it :| Second, when I blew into the hose connected on the engine, air passed through, but it seemed like it was leaking out some where, not flowing freely like I excepted it to, so I think that it was leaking out by the hose clamp, but it was restricted enough to not let the tranny vent when it needed to, which caused the dipstick to get pushed out. Also, it now shifts great from first to second. It used to make a slight "clunk" from first to second, but not anymore. I guess that's just an added benefit for having the transmission being able to breath correctly. I am just happy that it was a super easy fix, and I solve 2 problems at once Is it possible that having the tranny vent properly would cause the clunk to go away? And finally, does anyone know what is supposed to be connected there, if anything at all? Here's a few picks showing the location. I eneded up putting a cap over the nipple. That's the black thing in the picture. How it was before: And now:

I guess I should have clarified myself a bit better, the hose isn't clogged, it's in the tranny that is. That's why I mention the tranny flush I tried to stick some thin wire down the vent hole, but that didn't solve anything... So I don't have to plug off where the hose is connecting to the engine? I don't want to cause any vacuum issues. I already have to deal with this So '88 was the first year for the 4EAT, I was close Damn you google for telling me lies!

Here is where the vent hoses connect to the engine. Is this my problem... Here is a zoomed out shot of where they attach Here is where they connect to the hose connecting to the engine And finally the driver and passenger vent hose locations that I found

Ok, the driver side is clogged. On the passenger side, when I blow into it, fluid comes out the dipstick, but on the driver side, pressure/air just backs up and blows back in my mouth when I stop blowing, and no fluid comes out the dipstick. The hoses are connected to the engine, but there are NO other hoses in the area connected to the tranny at all especially on top, so ya. How do I unclog it? I hope I don't need a tranny flush, not that it's bad, but it cost about 250 bucks...

That would be why I couldn't find any vacuum hoses coming off the tranny you mention a "W" shape hose... all I could find was a "V" shaped hose. Actually it's two hoses coming from both sides of the tranny that are connected the a t connector that then goes off somewhere. These were on the top of the tranny under the spare tire near where the engine mounts to the tranny. I am going to go try blow through those lines now and see what happens since those hoses were all that I could find coming off of the tranny. I looked for over a half hour trying to find the vacuum hose that went to the vacuum diaphragm on the tranny...

It's a 4EAT 4spd Fulltime 4WD tranny for sure. I don't have any buttons to push, or levers to pull to activate the 4wd. If I recall from my research before I bought the car, 1990 was the first year of the computer controlled 4WD tranny in the subarus.

Ya, auto's aren't my favorite, but it came with the car and the rest of the car was too nice to pass up, and the turbo makes the auto seem bearable. I will check the vent hoses, replace the oring on the dipstick, and check the one way valve. I will let you all know in the morning what my progress is, and if all the simple suggestions fix my problem. Thanks all so far with the advice! Keep'em coming! PS. I work graveyard so I am on here at weird hours, so that's why I post at strange times... :|

Well, I will try this first. I want to eliminate anything else that it could be before I go diving into the tranny it's self You got anymore simple things for me to try out?

Could it be that easy? Seriously? That would be freakin' sweet. I hate to ask a stupid question, but where would I get the O ring? The dealer, or an auto parts store? Thanks for the quick response!

That's what I have been doing, because I am afraid of blowing it! I have a qt in my car as I speak How would I go about checking the vent on the top? Or if I even have one? edit: I just realized that while I was doing a test drive and checking the dipstick on the drive, it wasn't pushed out when I was driving around on the side streets, but after I got back from my freeway run where I was pushing the car a little harder than usual, that's when the dipstick popped out, after using more boost more often. Ricearu, you mentioned the modulator leaking boost into the tranny, what/where is this modulator? I am new to subie turbos And how would I go about checking this also. Seems like you might have pointed me in a good direction!?!?!?

Hello, on my 1990 subaru loyale turbo wagon my tranny is pushing the dipstick out and spewing some, not a lot, of ATF out the dipstick after driving if for a bit. I am curious to what might be causing this. My first gut reaction is that the tranny is overfull, which is causing the fluid to come out the dipstick. But when I check the fluid (with the car running and in park) it says that it's on the 'low' mark, and in no way overfilled. But once it gets to the low mark, it really doesn't spew any more fluid out that I can really tell. What would cause this? I am kinda at a loss on that. If I apply the "KISS" (keep it simple stupid) principle, the first thing that I can think of is the wrong dipstick, too short for example, would give me the "low" reading, but the tranny would actually be "full". Then when I add more fluid to it, it spews it out because there is too much, obviously. So on that note, does any one know how long is the diptsick is supposed to be for an AE82? This way I can rule out the previous owners putting in the wrong dipstick, since I just picked up the wagon a week ago. Other than the fluid coming out the dipstick, the tranny seems fine. No slipping, shifts into drive/reverse quickly, no obvious clunking, smooth shifts for the most part, shifting into 2nd is a tiny bit rougher that the other gears, but I only picked up on it when I noticed the dipstick sticking out and notice the fluid in the engine compartment, so it wasn't that noticable, but that's it. If there is something else that I should be checking/looking for, any help would be greatly appreciated! Thanks in advance!

That's the idea I drove the MR2 into the ground for the past five years, so the least that I can do is fix him Now that I have my new turbo wagon, I no longer have to worry about snow and bad weather, and I can focus on the project car. I really love my wagon though, and it's going to be hard not to invest in a lift kit before I start working on the MR2

Thanks, I will need all the luck that I can get! My MR2 needs a whole bunch of work besides the turbo addon (motor (complete rebuild from the lower end up), suspension (shocks, bushings, tie rods, rack and pinion, the works), tranny, cvs, etc, basically the whole car). The 10 g's includes the interior getting leather I hope that I won't have to spend 2000 on a tranny, but if that's what happens so be it