eulogious

NICE!! Man, you keep getting all these cool tools. I am sooooo jealous. One of these days I will be able to start my collection of shop tools, but I need a shop first Can't put the cart before the horse. Good for you man! I now know where to come for my next alternator

Yes and no on this. Power consists of two elements, volts and amps. Think of it like a water pipe. Volts is how big/wide the pipe is, and Amps is how much water/flow/pressure is going through the pipe. Just because something is putting out 18 VOLTS, it can still be drawing the same amount of AMPS, so therefore the fuse will not blow. So in this case your pipes(voltage) got HUGE, but the flow/pressure(amperage) stayed the same. Fuses don't provide protection for over-voltage situations, just for over-amperage situations, hence why your fuses didn't blow in your situation. Bad things happen when there is too much voltage applied, and also when there is too much amperage applied as well, and they can cause damage independently of each other ie just because there is a over volt situation, doesn't mean there will be an over amp situation as well. I hope that helps explain why your fuses are still intact.

If it's the dealer installed one, I have a wiring "pinout" for it showing what each wire does... but if it's ripped out, then that is useless. If you want it, PM me...

I ride a YZF 600R. Great bike. Too bad the weather sucks most of the time in this area, I would ride more... Gotta love 110 mph in third , and that's before I merge! It awesome to have to SLOW DOWN to merge into traffic. Good times for sure!

Yup, a common problem... search for it, it comes up quite often

I would say to listen to your dad! He is correct on this. You MIGHT be able to drive it with incorrect tire size/match in snow and slick conditions for a short while and not damage it, in the long run you will destroy it.

I agree that it's mainly the people of this state. I guess I should say this SIDE (the westside) fo the state. People don't know how to drive, let alone drive in adverse conditions. Here's a story that happened to me recently. On a real icy morning here last Monday, my wife heads to work in here Kia. She gets about 4 blocks from our house, and she sees a BUNCH of people STANDING in the icy street, while cars are sliding everywhere. What had happened is there was a miata that ran into the ditch, so people were "driving" around this car. Well, my wife not knowing how to drive on ice, hit the brakes to avoid the people, but in the process of avoiding the people that are STANDING in an icy road, she looses control of the car and runs the car into a ditch. Avoids hitting anyone or anything. No biggie, winch it out, we are on our way... That is until 2, yes I repeat 2, 4WD trucks run into my wifes bumper while it's in the ditch!!! 2 people in 4WD trucks can't even avoid an accident when there is easily 10 feet to get around it. Amazing. I couldn't believe it. How can you hit a car that you SEE is in the ditch, KNOW is in the ditch, and have TIME to avoid it, and still hit the car. What f'ing tools. Granted my wife should not have been driving the Kia on ice when there is a Subaru with SNOW TIRES on it in the driveway at home, but still. What would have been a simple mistake turned into a 1300 ordeal. Stupid f'ing people and their stupid f'ing 4WD trucks that they can't drive... Now that I am done with my rant, I also have to agree that WSDOT is only doing what the public wants. Last year was apparently "bad" around here and everyone complained so now they are using salt. But what they don't get is that WSDOT WAS using salt. They started last year. Statewide. But hey, the people are always correct! Or something like that anyways. I drove around the Kia all last winter and only got stuck once. That was after driving from Olympia to Seattle back to Olympia with 6 inches of snow on the ground. In a Kia. Without snow tires. Even if you do get stuck, if you know anything about driving your car in adverse conditions, you will get it out, even if you have to dig it out! So I don't see what they big deal is, and why everyone fussed about it. Geez. Salt Sucks! Sand Rocks!

Well it's normal for the voltage to dip down on idle because the stock alternator suck and put out very little amps at idle. They don't start putting out decent amps until about 2500 RPMs or so... To be getting the charge light... I would try charging the battery. If the battery was almost dead, the alternator as to work extra hard all the time to try to charge it back up. Maybe that's why it's dipping so low? I would charge the battery, and then see if the problem is still the same. Hell, I would swap in a good battery if you have one around just to test. That would be the first thing I would look at after swapping out a bad alternator. After that, I would solder and heat shrink those connections just to make sure. And yes, I would solder them, anything in the engine compartment should only be soldered. To much heat and exposure to the elements to trust crimp connectors or wire nuts... Can you say corrosion? You don't want ANY corrosion on your alternator connections either. That just equals bad times. Why did you have to cut the wires in the first place? The "new" alternator should have just plugged right in...

I would straight ground the pump for diagnostic purposes, just make sure to "fix" it correctly if that solves the problem. Having a fuel pump not shutdown in an accident would be very bad.

Ya last year they bought a BARGE of salt. Yes an ENTIRE BARGE of salt to restock all the maintenance sheds. That should give you some idea of what they are doing... The problem with the anti-icing solutions is that they only work on "dry" roads. If there is any water, it will rinse off. No matter how "good" the solution is. The only thing that works when stuff gets wet is salt. I do believe that the rates that WSDOT puts down on the road is less than some states though, but I honestly don't know because I don't have access to others states date for that. But I do have access to the real time rates the trucks are putting down right now. I can also see the real time status of what is being put down on the road at this min. (salt or solutions). It's good stuff

Awesome link! That really does sum up the conversation that I had... Way more in-depth, but all those points were made in a round about way. Thanks for that! Everyone should read it. Gives a little insight as to WSDOT is doing about this problem. Breeke, I will let them know! I know that WSDOT is working on getting some new "web 2.0" stuff out there, like a twitter page, and some other cool things, so I think there will be a place somewhere for public comments/comlaints. I will also inquire about that. If I find a link, I will post it here so everyone can complain My uncle is a plow driver for the county over in eastern wa, so next time I talk to him, I will see what they are putting down on the roads and also ask him if he knows what other counties are doing to try to get a better idea of what is really being put down state wide. Since the holidays are coming up, I should be hearing from him...

It's true that it melts the ice and snow, and then it might refreeze, but it does work. This state is usually pretty good about plowing the roads and keeping the snow off the roads, so maybe that helps with the freeze/thaw cycle? IDK. Don't get me wrong, I don't like the policy and I don't agree with it, but that's the thinking. I am mainly playing devils advocate here I really wish that they would just continue to use sand. This have boat loads of it and they can't get rid of it, but they use salt instead. Even when they put sand down, it now has salt mixed in with it Everytime. Sad times. I did voice my concern, but I was told to wash my car more often if it bothers me, and I didn't want to start a debate about washing your car or not with him, so I left it at that. It really sucks. The only blessing is that at least half of the state doesn't have to worry about this too much, as we don't get too much snow on the west side of the mountains. Also keep in mind I am only talking about state maintained roads. Not city or county roads, so there still is SOME hope out there... The only city that I know that uses salt/brine is Seattle. They started using it this year The environmentalist have kept them at bay, but someone finally debunked a study about the brine/salt killing fish, so the city immediately jumped on the salt wagon Even more sad, sad times.

Ok, so I talked with one of the guys, and basically they started using salt everywhere last year. The reason, it works, and sand doesn't. That's why they switched. Their reasoning is that public safety trumps saving cars, which is true I guess. I do have to agree with that, public safety is important, since I am part of the public, and I want to be safe on the roads. In this disposable age that we live in, of course this is the mentality. The bottom of the car is rusting out? Buy a new one! DUH! :-\ If sand isn't working, then use something that does. Unfortunately salt seems to be the only thing that works. If anyone wants some more specifics on stuff like the type of chemical they use, where they use chemical instead of salt, when do they switch from chemical to salt, I can probably answer them. The WSDOT Emergency Operations Center is located in my work space, so I have access to all sorts of sweet tools

I am just going to throw this out there, so take it for what it is... On my turbo, I have been having a similar problem. It's been getting SUPER cold for around here, 7 at night!, and my car was idling very high (high enough to shutdown my remote start with an overrev shutdown tigger), so I thought something was wrong. When I would start it, it would idle really high, and then I would "blurp" the throttle, and it would drop down to "normal" but then immediately go back up to the high RPM's. After about 10 min, this behavior would go away and the RPM's would drop to normal. In the last 2 days the temps have warmed up to above freezing, and the problem has not occurred since. Kinda sounds like what is going on with you, maybe? But this seems like's its normal behavior with the FI soobs, at least in my case. This is just my experience with a 1990 turbo loyale, so ya. The other thing to check is maybe cleaning out your IAC? It controls the high idle and such. It might help! Edit: I just read about your pedal physically sticking... Mine doesn't do that, but the symptoms seem the same...

Ok, so I have access to the people who actually make these decisions for WSDOT, and I will try to find out why they have started salting the roads. There has to be a reason. I will say this, WSDOT is actually very good, and this really surprises me that they would change the policy, especially since it's bad for the cars! I have a feeling it has to do with budget cuts. Every department is hurting, so it's probably cheaper to get "salt" than to use "non salt" for the roads. I will ask some questions and try to find out what the thinking was behind the switch. I agree that this is totally lame. I will also voice all our concerns to the highest up person I can. Probably won't do any good, but at least I can try! I can't sit around and do nothing!

If you want a manual for it, I just saw the FSM (Factory Service Manual) in the Classified section on the forums here. I just picked mine up for 24 bucks, and it covers a lot of stuff, well everything about the car actually. Also there are some links online for the FSM as well... http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showpost.php?p=863446&postcount=6 There's my post with the links for the FSM and some other helpful manuals. I hope that this at least points you in the right direction, good luck!

That's good. Is the AAV like the IAC? Can I clean it to see if that helps, and if I can clean it, is it the same procedure as cleaning the IAC? What should I look out for to see if it's on its way out the door? I have only had the car for a few months, so when something new comes around I haven't seen before, I like to try to find out if it a problem or a "normal" thing, at least "normal" for a car with 200,000 miles on it What about the high idle adjustment? I am just curious if the bolt is standard procedure. When it warms up a little outside, I might go out and see what happens when the bolt is removed and see what going on. Thanks all!

So the other day I started my car to let it warm up with my remote start. I went about my usual routine for about 10 more min, and then went down to my car to discover it off. I thought that this was weird, so I started it back up to see what would happen. It started fine, but then the idle climbed to about 2200 and stayed there. So I tapped the gas to see if it would drop the RPM's. This is where it gets a little weird. When I tapped the gas, the idle would drop down to about 1100 RPM's and then immediately climb back up to 2200 RPM's. It did this consistently for about 5 min while I waited to see what would happen. After 5 min passed and nothing changed, I drove to work because I was going to be late. On the way to work, the car acted fine, and when I got to work, it was idling just fine. It was not done this since, that was two days ago. It was also super cold, around 10 degrees when I tried to start the car. I have started it since then in the same weather on a different morning, and I didn't have a problem. I have also started my car several other times after having it sit for a few hours in the cold, and have not had a problem. It seems that this was a one time thing. So my question are these, would the AAV cause this symptom? Where can I find an AAV if it is the problem, rockauto doesn't list them? Should I even be worried about it? The car is a 1990 loyale turbo wagon. My FSM doesn't really say too much about the AAV, so any help would be greatly appreciated. Another question along the same lines... Where is the Fast Idle adjust screw? According to the FSM it should be right under the Fast Idle Solenoid, but when I go out and look at my car, I find the Fast Idle Solenoid, but where I think the fast idle adjust screw should be, there is a bolt there. Yes a bolt with no slot for a screw driver. It's a normal bolt sticking out... So should I remove the bolt and see what's behind it, or just leave it be? I want to adjust the the fast idle speed because it seems really high, when the AC kicks in, the idle jumps to about 1200 RPM's. My FSM says that the idle should be about 850 or so, where the normal idle should be around 800, and my idle is about 800, so according to the FSM, it's high, so I would like to adjust it down to the specs, so any help with this would also be much appreciated.

It's good to hear there are some decent people out there that won't break the law for cheaper tires! Props, you are a stronger man than me in that regard. I have smuggled a fair amount of goods to and from Canada, so it's just becomes second nature... Should I be saying this???? *Looks over shoulder, looking for the man*

I believe they just come off pretty easy. But I am not sure, I have not done that myself. It just seems like they are slightly clogged. Right now it's about 10 outside, and my squiters work just fine, so I don't think the pump is the problem. I would check the squiters for clogs, and check the tubing for the system to make sure there isn't a blockage or something. That's all I got...

Sounds like a plan. The more the merrier!

Looks awesome man! Good start for you anyways! I am pretty busy until x-mas now with family stuff on the weekends unfortunately, but around new years I will be wanting to get out! So I will post back in a few...

I guess I should clarify what I said earlier. The 4EAT is a Full Time 4WD transmission. For this topic, it's the closest thing to "AWD", that's why I brought it up. My bigger point is that there is a difference between the manual and the automatics transmissions. That's all. Let's not start a "AWD" flame war. If anyone wants more info the differences between FT 4WD and AWD, just search for it. It's been covered recently. I just want to throw that in... continue on

Or you just say you have been there for two days (48 hours to be exact). Even easier, DON'T MENTION/DECLARE YOU BOUGHT TIRES. They won't know or care. Of course this is illegal, but so is speeding, and I do that every day I will only stop and pay taxes at the border one time (didn't know about the 48 hour rule), I learned my lesson, and they will never know what I have purchased now, that and I ALWAYS spend 49 hours or more in Canada, according to them anyways Off topic, but I got a Canada stamp on my passport It took asking three different times before they would do it, but I got one I just thought that was cool...

Just to nit pick/clarify, I have a 1990 Loyale that IS AWD, but I have the automatic 4EAT transmission, so it's a "true" AWD system. So I think you mean to say that all MANUAL Loyales are 4WD. There is some variation with the automatics for the Loyales I believe (3AT? and 4EAT available?), but that's off topic... I think that the reason so many people think that the Loyales had AWD and center locking diffs is because the RX and turbo models had them in the older years, and they don't realize that subaru basically discontinue those trannys for the loyales and replaced them with different offerings. My 2 cents.