eulogious

Wow, that's fantastic! What to do with it? Maybe a new target on the target range? Or maybe set it on fire and practice putting out subie fires with a garden hose? Setup some ramps on the end of a dock and jump it into a lake while it's on fire and you are running around on the shore in your underwear screaming "WHY OH WHY" while your friends video tape it to post on YouTube? I jest of course I honestly don't know what you could do with it. It looks like it has some great mods done to it already, maybe just improve on those Good times

I have one, but it's not for sale I can make scans of certain pages for you if needed, but not the whole thing

That tire size should not be discontinued. The only size tire I had trouble finding was 185/80/13 not 185/70/13. When I was looking for 185/80/13 I found a BOAT load of 185/70/13's, but only Les Schwab had the 185/80/13's. Of course all my experience is in the states, so I don't know about Canada. If you can't find a Canadian company to find tires, just go to a Les Schwab across the border... This will only work if you are close to the border of course. I think your tire store is just lazy and doesn't want to do any research for you. I would take my business else where. But that's just me... You would think that a store called CANADIAN TIRE would be able to get all types of tires, but alas, I have never had good luck with Canadian Tire. The store name seems misleading to me. BTW I lived up in Langley for about 6 months, so I had to deal with them. Here's a link to the thread that I started about getting my new tires 185/80/13's... There's some useful info it for ya: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=104450 Hope this helps!

Check out my thread about the tires that I got. Might help you out... http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=104450 I think they look great, for a 13" tire anyways.

It looks like I will not be able to make it as well. The father-in-law fell off a ladder and messed himself up prettey bad, so it looks like this weekend is going to be spent at the in-laws. Good times... not so much :| You all have fun in the snow, and take some good pics!

I would go to a JY and grab a new wiper/headlight switch and just plug it in and see if it works. If it works, that's your problem, if it doesn't, then it's something with the wiper motor probably or the wiring. My local Pull a Part lets me test parts before I buy them, so I can test to see what's wrong. Maybe one in your area allows you to do the same. Just a thought.

Thanks for the tip... I was going to do that, but I wanted to be different. I have installed after market power door locks all around on my old wagon, but I really wasn't pleased with the results. I had the five wire actuator on my old one. When I set out to do this mod, I thought about doing it that way, but like I said, I wasn't too pleased with the results the last time I did it, so I wanted a new and different way to accomplish the same thing. It was ALOT of work to fit everything into the doors and it made the bulged out on my old car... The main reason I did this was for the 2 stage unlock. Press once, drivers side unlocks, press again, the rest unlock. That was the original goal, which is fairly easy to accomplish with a few relays. I also wanted to add a switch in the cab for the driver. I realize that this was totally the hard way to go, but it's totally worth it. I have more control over the power door locks then before. The actuator that I installed in the drivers door is actually the front passenger actuator from the JY. Cost me $6.99, and I found new relays w/pigtail for $3 a piece, including tax Gotta love your local electronics wholesaler. (On a side note, if you are in the Olympia area and need electronics (reistors,capicitors,switches, relay, etc.), check out ERI http://www.eresourcing.com/ they have EVERYTHING you could ever possibly want for electronics for cheap, and in stock!) I had to jerry-rig the lock bars, but it fits all up in there stock like. Doesn't make anything bulge out, and doesn't bind up on anything. Right now, everything is setup so all I have to do is wire in the keyless entry. I am really happy with the results that I got. I will be posting a complete guide to installing the keyless entry and remote start, including the FSM scans and wiring diagrams that I made for all this, but I need time to install it all, and then document it. But I will be posting a very through how to on this It's was alot of work firguring it out, but now that's it's done, it's really quite simple and works very well. Like I said, I accomplished exactly what I wanted to do. Sometimes I just like to be different

Ok, so I got the drivers side door motor in, and my locks working! The one thing that I realized in doing the locks this way is that I can no longer lock or unlock all my car doors from the inside the car or when it's running! It won't be a problem outside with the keyless entry, but I can't unlock/lock all the doors easily from the inside. So to remedy this, I installed a couple more relays and wired them up to some push button switches and I now have lock/unlock buttons in my car! I will have pics and diagrams for my wiring to get this to work. Now my keyless entry system will lock/unlock my doors, and I can lock/unlock all my doors from inside my car. It's good stuff. More to come...

Good to know... I learned something new about my turbo setup, thanks GD!

If you are not getting 7 psi, you probably have an exhaust/vacuum leak some where in the system, and that's why you can't hit 7 psi. That or something is up with the waste-gate setup... I am not exactly sure what, but those would be where I would start. In my 1990 Loyale ea82T with 198,000 miles on it, I hit 7.5 psi WOT, no mods done, bone stock. As for the boost controller, you can get a manual one and use that to adjust the boost and plumb it in. Just google for it. I believe any manual boost controller will work, but I wouldn't mess with the stock system too much. The ea82T is a picky son-of-a-bi@#h, so I would leave it stock. I personally want it to last as long as it can, and when it goes, its EJ swap time I will never up the boost, it just equals trouble. That just my 2 cents.

I take it not so good times happened at some point. That's good to know. I guess it's time to start PMing! Thanks for the tip

I have heard this as well, but nobody has been able to confirm that this works, especially on a 1990 4EAT out of a loyale. The legacy and the loyale 4EAT transmissions use different TCU's, even when the cars are the same year, the legacy has a different TCU than the loyale or ae82 series for that matter. The legacy TCU has a better cpu in it and some other things that mine does not. I think that contributes to the confusion on what works and what doesn't. You would think that subaru would have just made one TCU for the cars and put the same one in all, but they didn't. I could be wrong when I say that the 1st gear trick doesn't work because I haven't done WOT on it to find out, but like I said, the TCU's are different so that might mean something... Either way, that's why I did the switch. That's what I did to find the wire, I just grabbed my DMM and started testing wires as described in the rs25 forum until I found the correct one. Just make sure you have the TCU, not the ECU I was testing the ECU at first, because the loyale puts the TCU in a different place than the legacy's. Oops, oh well... Feel free to ask me any questions, and I will help were I can, but since I don't have a legacy, I don't know how much help I will be, but I will help as much as I can! Good luck!

I think that I am in for the x-mas tree run. I have to check my calendar, but I think I am available, and it sounds like it will be good times! Thanks for the heads up on the links, I was curious on where it was

I think that I am in, at least right now. It's on a Sunday, so I should be available... We should definitely caravan it over there! I am rockin' a stock subie with snow tires, I should be ok for this, correct? Sounds like a real good time...

If you are planning on doing this in a legacy, then follow the rs25 link in the first post and it has some links to some FSM's. I don't know if they have a 1990 legacy or not, but it will get you started. I did this on my loyale, which has a completely different pinout and every thing, so I would NOT follow my exact instructions. I believe if you read through all the pages on the rs25 forum they mention what the wire is for the legacy. I can't remember if they do or not, but you might want to check there first, you will probably have better luck. For me, I don't see a point in wiring up a switch to activate FWD. I am not planning on trying ebrake turns or anything, so I see no point for my needs, which is why I just kept it simple. If you really want a good read, you should check out what presslab did with some paddle shifters. Search these forums for 4EAT paddle shifters, and you will be blown away by what that guy did. Seriously impressive stuff. I know my way around electronics, but not anywhere near what that guy knows. I am still waiting on my FSM's to arrive (should be any day now), and I will post back after I have some time to do a proper write up with the FSM scans.

When I was at the JY today I grabbed the passenger door actuator so I could add it as the driver side actuator, and in order for it to function properly, I had to take the actuator apart and rotate the lock bar 180 degrees in it's housing so that the lock bar would face up properly and have enough clearance to lock and unlock. With that being done, I am still about a 1/2" shy from connecting the lock bars up. So how did you "jerry-rig" up the gate actuator, since it's MUCH shorter than the right passenger door actuator? I figure that if all else fails, I will just re-drill the holes for the actuator 1/2" up the door from where it is now. Or I can tack weld the existing bar to the "new" actuator bar to make up the difference. The problem with the tack weld option is that I don't have a welder, or know how to weld. I have a buddy with a welder, but that just adds another layer to the project. If you could give me some hints as to what you did, I might be able to get around it with out welding. Thanks!

So I went out to the JY today to pick up a power door lock actuator, was only $8 , and checked out the wiring in the car I took the actuator from. So the switch to lock and unlock the door is the same size as the actuator itself, and already has all the connections needed to make adding in an actuator instead, super easy. I think that was what crazyman was referring to with the little connector, and having to swap a couple of wires. I can now replace the switch with the actuator and then just cut the connection in the cab for the relays and to tap into the system. I am really glad I went and checked out a JY first, now I have a much better understanding of how everything works, and it should be pretty easy to add an actuator in.

Yup, Yup, I found those a couple of days ago just to be able to make sure I could get them before I bid on it

Ok, so I made a drawing that makes what you said more clear, and I added in the wire colors from my hanyes manual... Are the colors the correct ones that you used? Here's the pic: I think that is what you were going for... Also since I am going to be using the 2 stage unlock, I am also going to have to bypass the stock power door lock controller unit (basically just a DPDT switch for all intensive purposes) for the car, and just use the valet 562t for that. Since all the power door locks are controlled by the drivers door, if I install an actuator in the driver side door and unlock it, all the locks will be unlocked, so I have to bypass the stock power door lock controller unit, or I won't get the 2 stage unlock. With that being said, I am going to cut the wires coming off the stock controller unit (Yellow and Red/White) and run them back through the door, into the cab, along with the new actuator wires, unless I can find them in the cab... That way I can install the relays all in the cab, under the dash. This is the simplest way to bypass the stock control unit, and relocate everything into the cab to protect it from the environment. I think that this is the easiest way to accomplish the 2 stage unlock. Once I get my FSM, I might be able to locate the wires already in the cab and use those instead, but I will have to wait until I get my FSM to be able to verify that. What are you thoughts on this? Is my logic correct? I think that this statement might be referring to the wires in the cab, but I really don't know. Could you clarify this statement for me, thanks... I think you mean there is already a connector that you can use for this, but I am not sure. Thanks a bunch for the link about the relays. It makes sense now. I have never really had a need to use relays for anything up until this point. I have wired in power door locks before, but they were after market and plugged right into the new "brain" that I bought for it. No relays required. I have done plenty of soldering and wiring and working with LED's and circuit boards, but never really needed to wire in any relays for anything. It sounds like they will be useful to me in the future as well. Again, thanks for that. Also thanks for explaining how you did the relays as well. I don't think that I would have figured it out without some help pointing me in the correct direction. Especially since I didn't really understand relays. You just saved me a huge headache and lots of time. Thanks for helping me out!

Hey, so I just picked up the same Valet 562T system that you got (for only $20 go ebay ) and I had a few questions. From the sounds of it, you got the drivers side door to unlock separately from the others, like on modern cars, correct? So when you push the button once, it unlocks just the drivers, and then push it again to unlock them all? That would be sweet, and I am looking to do that. You mentioned that you wired in some relays, how did you setup that up? Relays are slightly confusing to me still, working on that... Also, did you get everything to work with the car, ie auto start, door intrusion, dome light control, etc? You got any tips to share for someone looking to install this unit soon? Any hangs ups that I should look out for? I am getting my FSM any day now, so that will help, but any pointers that you have would be really helpful, since you already wired it in Thanks!

When is that going down? That does sound like good times! I take it everyone come home with a tree I always go to u-cuts so...

Nice, I will have to check it out. I know where it is, I just haven't been there. I will put it on the list of places to go. Keep the ideas coming! Thanks!

I will go ahead and be nice here If you use the search function, it will get you a lot farther. What transmission do you have the 4 speed or the 3 speed, if it's the 4 speed it's the 4EAT and there is a thread start regarding that here: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=100399 It's still on the first page of the forum also, about 10-12 topics down If it's the 3 speed, search for it Good luck

Nope... I moved here from Seattle, so ya, I have no idea what is really around here... Hopefully it will snow soon!!

LOL, ya good times with subis I unfortunately have to replace my heater core, so wheeling is out for me until that gets fixed. Hopefully with in the next couple weeks. I will let you know and then maybe we can go wheelin'! I want to get my subi all muddy