eulogious

Hey, I know this is an old thread, but I am in the same boat. I have a 1990 loyale turbo w/4EAT and I am thinking about doing the EJ swap as well, and I would like to keep my transmission. How did this turn out, or did it??

Ok, so I called the Dealer and asked, and it's $420!!! Wow, no thank you. I did get a part number though, it's 87053GA000. So I think that I am going to try to get a legacy one to work, unless I can find a used turbo one...

What kit did you buy? I am interested in doing this as well. Post your results with pics too please! I would like to see if it really is worth the price

I would check the simple things first, like tire balance. Off balance tires will cause a shuttering at a specific speed, depending on how far off they are off balance. That's where I would start.

Hello all, so I decided to look into why my dealer installed cruise control would never hold going up a hill. I set the cruise, and then when I approach a hill, it just slows down, like it was never applying more throttle. So I would then step on the gas, get over the hill, and all was good. I thought maybe the car doesn't have the power... But that doesn't make any sense, because it goes up the hill fine was I take over and apply more gas. Then I was thinking that maybe it had something to do with the fact that I have a turbo and that I create a positive pressure in the manifold while under boost. That's when I stumbled across this tidbit: This of course proved my theory of producing positive pressure having an affect on the cruise control, since I have the last option, the one with the control panel mounted on the dash to the right on the steering column, not to mention the original invoice from when the car was sold requesting cruise control, and also the invoice after the cruise control was installed in my car from the dealer. Stupid dealer, install a manifold vacuum system on a boosted car. Where did they expect vacuum to come from while under boost ESPECIALLY at freeway speeds where you use cruise most of the time!? Seriously, what idiots, they didn't think that all the way through, especially when there is a factory solution to the turbo problem So my question is this, does anybody know the part number of the factory cruise control vacuum pump for my 1990 loyale turbo wagon? I can't find it anywhere. All I can find is the legacy part number. Can I use a pump from a legacy if I can't find one for the loyale? I know there will be some rewiring required along with finding a place to mount the leagacy unit if I go that route. I guess I should also ask if anyone has one they want to get rid of, if you have one, PM me, I am interested...

Amen to that! Good to hear another subie can still run legally Congrats!

Ok, so I have installed the switch and everything works perfectly I did some testing too to see if the resistor pack really managed to do anything. So I wired up my switch and all, but I left the resistor pack ungrounded to see what the TCU would do. After my successful test drive, I turned the car off, and then turned it back on, and my power light flashed 16 times. Turn the car off and then back on again, the light wouldn't flash. I then started the car, flipped the switch on and then off, turned off the car, turned it back on and got the blinking lights again. Ok, so it works, but the TCU is getting the duty C solenoid error. This is what I was expecting. I then grounded the resistor pack, and then did the same experiment again. This time I got no error codes! So the resistor pack does prevent any errors. I will post back with more pics and info on how I did it all. Thanks everyone for all the help so I could do this mod!

This is true with the newer 4EAT's, basically from about 2000ish on from what I have read in the subject but I could be wrong. Mine is year 2 for the 4EAT, and it does not do this. I technically can't move the lever to first either. This might seem like an rump roast thing to say, but the cars that have a first on the gear shifter seem to have better luck than those that have a 1 hold button. I have the button I also tried it in a parking lot, no binding... Haven't tried it yet, but several others have, and have had no problems. The only time you should have errors, is on start up anyway from what I have read. If you start the car with the switch on, and no resistor pack, the AT Temp light will flash 16 times or so and then stop and never flash again. Other than that, you don't get any messages/errors I believe, even without the resistor pack. I could be wrong on this, but I don't think others have had any issue with TCU codes just running a simple switch. The only reason I am doing the resistor pack is because I like electronics, and if I can prevent a problem by using simple electronics, I will. Like I said before, that's just me Thanks for that! I will have to go give it a go and see what I can come up with. I already have the DPDT switch and a LED, so I am already with ya on that So I have built the resistor pack, now all I need is some time to go out and install the actual switch into the car. Hopfeully I will have time to get out tomorrow and take a closer look at everything. I will update when I make some more progress. Thanks everyone for your help! I wouldn't have gotten this far without your help, thanks!

I would try lubin' up the chassis in the back... In one of the manuals, either the FSM or the HTKYSA, it tells you how to lube it up. That's where I would start.

So I went ahead and pulled the connector apart to see what I was looking at, and I was looking at it wrong. The plug in the diagram goes to the TCU. It's female (DUH!) so now I know what a female connector looks like on a wiring diagram That's what happens when you assume I guess. You look like an rump roast! On a happier note, I have found the wire for the duty C solenoid And sure enough, the diagram that I have is the correct one, at least for the wire, up to that point. It changes somewhere along the way though. I ended up trimming the insulation back just enough to expose some bare wire, on the Green/Red wire in the engine bay going to the TCU, and tested it with my DMM. With the FWD fuse in place, the wires voltage is 8.6 just as expected, and with the FWD fuse removed, gear shift lever in 1st, and foot to the floor, the voltage reads .333 just as expected. YAY!! The sad news is that the wire does change color somewhere along the way. The Green/Red wire that is coming directly off the TCU, shows nothing when doing the same tests So now that I have found the correct wire, I am going to use the wire in the engine bay, and run wires into the car. I have to repair were I removed the insulation anyways, so I might as well use that spot to splice in. I also already have a spot to run through the firewall, since I did that while installing my boost gauge, so I will run the wire next to the boost line. I would still like to know what color that wire is once it gets inside the car and also have a diagram that I know is the correct one. Like I said the diagram that I have says the wire doesn't change color, but the Green/Red wire on the TCU is not the duty C solenoid wire, so ya... I will post back more after some more progress!

Nice clean, straight wagon! All you are missing is the lift with big fatty tires

Makes sense, still a tool shed either way... Edit: I reported it and a couple others i found while browsing

You my friend are a tool shed. What does this have to do with Subarus? Please check what forums you are at (DUH!) before posting stupid crap that is irrelevant to anything else in the forum, especially to old threads...

That makes sense. I thought about that too. I guess then my question is where does this plug go to/come from? If the are wires coming off of the transmission into the plug, then they are backwards, if they are coming from the TCU into the plug, then they are correct. I just don't know what the view is for that plug. I guess that's why I am confused. I just made the assumption that it was coming from the transmission (I really don't know how to read wiring diagrams), not the TCU, but you know what happens when you assume...

I wasn't planning on guessing. I have a DMM that I am going to use to make sure that I get the correct wire before I start cutting. I DO NOT want to cut blindly into things and hope that it works out for the best I do not have an 88,89 or 90 FSM, let alone section 6 from any year. The FSM that I have I got off of the forums. That would be FANTASTIC if you could tell me what wire to splice into, if you could include the diagram for the 4EAT I would be eternally grateful. I have been looking for that since I got the car. The turbo doesn't change anything? I don't know if it does, obviously, but it did in the legacy, so I would like to just make sure... The location that I was going to use is directly off the TCU, well a few inches back from the connector anyways, then I have to run even less wires Under the kick panel was my second pick. I followed all the wires into that side of the car... Yup Yup, this is why I decided to abandon the idea of a 60/40 split circuit. defcon over at rs25 already made a variable circuit, but it was alot of work, for really no added benefit, besides to say you did Don't get me wrong, it's sweet, but really is of no use to me, that's why I decided to just do a switch. Way easier, and if something goes wrong in the future, WAY less to troubleshoot. There really is no need to mess with the TCU that much. It does a good job as it is, just on starts in crappy weather, it sucks, kinda. The TCU throwing out codes is not a big deal, I am just the type of guy who will spend 15 bucks on some resistors to prevent the errors, just because that's the way I am. The codes do no harm, but I like to mess with electronics and cars, especially when there is a How-to that tells you how to do it all, and then prevents anything from flashing at me. That's just me I had no idea that there was a valve that limits the maximum pressure mechanically. That statement proves that this mod really doesn't do any harm to the transmission. Thanks for that! *goes away all warm and fuzzy knowing his transmission is safe* Gloyale, thanks for your insight! I appreciate everyone elses input so far as well! Thanks!

That's cool, I was talking more about the logic involved, and if anybody who knew about auto's could verify that logic. I should have worded it differently, but it's a moot point now... I have decided that I am not going to try to create a 60/40 split. After talking with defcon5 over at rs25, I decided that it's not really worth the bother. There's quite a bit more I would have to do in order for this to happen, and there would be very little benefit in doing so, so why bother. Besides that defcon5, several others over at rs25, and grossgary have not had any problems with this mod (as long as you use the mod correctly, which is what I will be doing). Now I am at the point of trying to locate the wire for the duty C solenoid. In doing even more research, I found this thread over at subaruxt where grossgary did this mod to his xt6: http://www.subaruxt.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=1562&st=0&sk=t&sd=a&hilit=4eat+center+diff&start=15 So this gave me inspiration because I think that I am close. Using the diagrams that I got for the 4EAT show that same connector in my car, but the pinout numbers are different. It's a different car, so ya, that makes sense, but all the wires colors were the same. Sweet I thought, I will just go look at my car... I found the plug, but all the wires are on the opposite side. The same colors, just flipped like this (it won't put in the spaces so the formating is messed up, but you get the idea): Diagram: 2 1 6 5 4 3 10 9 8 7 12 11 Mine: 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 Does that make sense? The order and color of the wires are the same for my car, just on the other side. Here's the diagram that I am referring to. The red circles are what I think the Duty C Solenoid circuit is. The blue rectangle is the plug that I am referring to that is flipped on me. I think the reason for this is because I have a turbo. Defcon mentioned that the legacy turbo wire color was different from the NA, so it would make sense that they would change the layout to make it different on the turbo, if you follow that same logic. I also noticed that there was no "green/red" wire coming off of the plug, at first. This confused me a little. After looking at the plug some more, I found the "green/red" wire going into the plug from the transmission, and the color of the wire coming out going to the inside/TCU was a "pastel" green/red wire. It's totally lighter and a different shade of green than the one coming off of the transmission. That was my AH HA!! moment. When I was looking for the green/red wire, I was looking for a DARK green and red wire, not a PASTEL one :| So I followed this wire as far as I could until it went inside the car. I then proceeded to look at my TCU and see if there was a pastel green/red wire on it. Sure enough there is But I don't want to get too excited, as I don't have my DMM on me, I can't test it to find out for sure until I get home and have the time. There is no dark green/red anywhere else but there are several other dark green wires, so I thought that the green/red one would be the same shade as the others. grossgary, was this the wire that you ended up using (the one in the engine bay) for this mod? I can almost smell success...

Anyone?? I guess my main concern is my idea about the 60/40 split and is this going to solve the issue with the internal spool valve? I know nothing about automatic transmissions, so if anyone with knowledge about auto trannys could help me out with this, that would be sweet! I don't want to continue researching this if it won't have any improvement over just installing a switch. I am making progress answering all my other questions, but if anyone else can help it would save me some time! Thanks!

Exactly my thinking. That's why I am going to do it, even if I can't get the voltage limiting circuit working. I was just going to put a switch in, and then I found the other thread, which starting spawning ideas from there and here I am... I just don't like to have loose ends (the TCU throwing out codes) if I can prevent it, especially if someone has done all the work for me, all I have to do is follow directions I am also the type to try to experiment and like to mod things, so this makes for a good project. I would totally not be even going down the road of messing with anything that might involve a PWM circuit, but a really good friend of mine gets off on that stuff, so I figured it would give us both a sweet project to try. That's really the only reason I am doing it. Peace of mind is more of a side benefit in this case Thanks, I love the search button

Hello all, so I was reading around the internets today and I stumbled across this: http://www.rs25.com/forums/f8/99075-4eat-diff-lock-switch-handbrake-mod-torquemada-lite-12.html Once I found this out, I want to know more so I jumped over here and found these threads talking about it: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=69794&highlight=4eat+locking http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=65716&highlight=duty+solenoid http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=50264 To sum up all the previous posts... In order to achive "true" AWD (meaning no delay/tire slip before AWD is active) you can disable the duty C solenoid (which is in charge of the MPT clutch on the 4EAT) and essential lock the MPT clutch to a 50/50 split ratio. Now when you just put a switch in to disable the duty C solenoid, the TCU will throw a fit and cause the AT Temp light to blink something like 16 times. In order to prevent the TCU from throwing out codes you can build a resistor block to fool the TCU into thinking that the solenoid is still there by providing the same resistance the solenoid provides so you don't get the blinking light and the TCU throwing out codes. Here's a diagram on the whole setup thanks to obsolete over at the rs25 forums for the diagram. It can also be found on page 5 in the first link. I take no credit for this: The biggest downside to this is you might blow your 4EAT up because you are causing too much hydraulic pressure to build up when you disconnect duty C solenoid because the internal spool valve is also controlled by the duty C solenoid and when internal spool valve closes it cause pressure in the clutchplates to build up and blow up the tranny. I am summarizing very quickly here, but that is the jist of the all the threads. So with all that in mind this is what I am thinking. I want to do all of this, but add another circuit in that would give a set amount of voltage to the duty C solenoid, say like 55% duty cycle (~55/45 split). This way the solenoid is not closed all the way, allowing the internal spool valve to remain partly open and not allowing pressure to build, solving most of the issues, but giving you instant 55/45 split allowing for better snow/mud/crap starts. I would just use a DPDT switch (or similar, not exactly sure what switch to use) and instead of connecting an LED up (maybe work on that later??) I would wire my new voltage limiting circuit to it instead. That way when I turn on the "diff lock" it would bypass the TCU, and activate my voltage limiting circuit at the same time I don't want this to turn into a discussion on whether this is a good idea or not (the mod itself), I am going to try it, and if all else fails I am going to do the mod following the instructions in the first post and take the risk. I want this to be a discussion on whether or not this idea will work... So I have 4 questions: 1. Am I on the right track here? The TCU sends a different voltage to the solenoid to control the split depending on conditions, so I should be able to do the same... 2. Does this idea solve the issues of building up pressure and the clutch plates failing? 3. Do I need a PWM controller circuit to reduce the voltage(PWM) to the duty C solenoid (much harder)? Or can I just use resistors to lower the voltage(non-PWM) to the duty C solenoid using the 12v from, say, the cigarette lighter (much easier)? 4. I am going to be doing this on my 1990 loyale turbo wagon w/4EAT, so does anybody know which wire goes from the TCU to the duty C soleniod on my car? I have the FSM, but it doesn't have anything for the 4EAT, and I can't find any wiring diagrams that I can read for my model (ae82), all I find is legacy and impreza stuff. I am going to be consulting with a good friend of mine who is an EE, so he should be able to help me with all the heavy lifting (soldering, math, etc) to try to make this work. Also, if I do succeed I will post diagrams and pictures with part numbers and all that jazz. This mod is awesome, but having the added benefit of not completely locking the MPT clutch would make it perfect, but I only hope ... More to come! Edit: I should add that I am not an EE in any way, shape or form. There is probably some technical stuff missing in here, but the concept is what's important

Thanks for the info! If I go down the intercooler path I will have to get one. Looks badass!

GD, what causes this, or is it normal? I had this happen on my 87 carbed wagon back in the day, and it happened recently on my 90 turbo wagon and I was curious on why it happened only in long sweeping right hand turns... stupid Seattle area on-ramps :-\

Is the hood scoop stock on your loyale? I want one. I have a '90 loyale turbo, and it doesn't have a hood scoop of all things! You would think that a turbo car would have a hood scoop...

I got to test out my AWD drive today, and I will say that I like it alot! It's nice to have it automatically kick in when you need it, like when you forget it's raining and try to cut out in front of a car going 50 only to realize that your tires have NO traction because it raining and all you are doing is spinning your tires, and then all of a sudden the back wheels kick in and save your rump roast from an accident. Ya, AWD is my new friend. Especially since I am not really going to go wheeling in this car so I don't need 4WD or low range. I was hesitant at first about AWD, but now me likey On a different note, that's some crazy rain!! I think all that rain in coming up to Washington, so that's what I have to look forward too soon... Sweet.

I found those also, but it says they are a specialty trailer tire which scared me away from them. Can you put them on a car? It says not to put them on a car or truck... Sweet, I will give them a call in the morning and see what they say about those. These are studless correct? The only ones that i was able to find looked like they had studs in them. I am guessing they come without studs and they add them if you want them at the store, but that is just a guess. Thanks for the heads up and I will post back with what they say.

Thanks for all the info man! I called around to a couple place very local to me, and none of them had any 185/80/13, nor did they want to try to find any for me. I think that I will try the greater Seattle area and see what I can come up with. Otherwise I think that I will go with another set of 185/70/13. There's a nice kuhmo tire that looks good in that size... but I am not giving up quite yet!