eulogious

Well that's good to know, and then I stand corrected Thanks for all the info. Gloyale was very helpful to me in the mod that I mentioned, and seem very knowledgeable about the transmissions. I guess I learned something new today! Edit: Just realized Gloyale posted more info... Thanks for the clarification on everything. I have now learnt all I can for today, at least with subarus ... Time to take some test for my IBM classes :|

I don't know where one can be bought, I would assume the dealer?? Here is a link to a post that I made that has the download links to the FSM, the Gregory Manual, and HTKYSA http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showpost.php?p=863446&postcount=6 They are all in PDF format, and they should help you out right now anyways until you can get a FSM in print Hope that helps.

LOL, oh how very true Good times...

I think that he is referring the the FSM for the car, and that is not $15, unless you can find it used, like I did. The FSM's are around $100 if you want one brand new. I could be wrong on the price, but the FSM is alot more money. The haynes/chiltons on the other hand are cheaper, but they don't give you nearly as much info as the FSM. Of course this is ASSUMING he wants the FSM pages My FSM is in the mail coming to me, and if you have not found out the info you are looking for when my FSM comes, I will see what I can do for you. I have no ETA on my FSM though, just playing the waiting game right now

I really don't want to add any more fuel to the fire, and you could be right I don't have any experience in working with these trannys at all. The information that I am going off of was what I researched when trying to add in a switch to enable full 50/50 lockup by disabling the duty C solenoid which causes the MPT clutch to fully lockup giving you virtually 50/50 torque split (I was successfull BTW with the mod, and it works). Here's a link to the thread I started regarding this http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=105077. All the info is in there that I found out, and I discussed it in these threads. Like I said, I could be wrong since I am no expert, that's just the information that I have been given by members on here. You are correct that the torque ratio can't really be made using a ratio/number, since the duty C solenoid use a PWM curcuit, the ratio is actually a percentage of the duty cycle that is being applied, so it's very hard to determine was 57% duty cycle is And with that, I have said my piece

Not with the 4EAT, 90/10 to start. That's why they call it Full Time 4WD, not AWD At least that's what I have read recently when I looked into what the duty c solenoid did in the 4EAT. The 3AT I know nothing about. I also don't know about the RX...

I plan on rock'in 'em all year round So far I like them. I haven't driven a bunch on them, but I like the look. They are les schwab signet winter trax. That would ultimately be the best choice, and oh so true, especially with these cars If you can wait, you will find the size tire that you want. It took me a couple of weeks, but I am sure that you will be able to find something. I am glad that I waited and looked for the 185/80/13's, they look much better on the car.

No problem, I hope you get it all worked out and find a better deal on your insurance!

Thanks, but I can read just like you Like speedwagon said, the CAR could be imported... moot point now...

I wasn't referring to when it was registered, I was referring to when you went to get insurance. Every car that I have had insurance for, when I sign up for a policy, the first thing they ask for is the VIN, to verify that I am not lying about the type of car. I have had this same procedure done with 4 different insurance companies and 5 different vehicles over the last 4 years. I just give them my VIN for the vehicle, and then they pull up my vehicle's info, I verify it, and then they send me a card with all my vehicle's info on the card. That's why I am surprised they didn't ask for the VIN to verify the car. The VIN can't lie about the car Maybe try calling the insurance back up and asking if they can run the VIN of the car to verify what car it is? Just a thought, I don't live over there so thing might be different...

Good catch

They didn't ask for the VIN? I have always just given the VIN to them, and then they pull up the info for the car and all is well... Did this less than a month ago, but I live in the states, so our processes are different and such. I believe there really is no difference between the DL, GL, Loyale, and Leone except for options. I am pretty sure the Leone was also available in 4wd. I also believe that the Leone was only available in NZ, and AUS. If that is the case you have a Leone. The only other options was that it was imported from the states or something, so naturally it would be different and you could have a DL or GL. Don't know if that helps you are not, but it's all I got

I just got these... I don't know what you mean by "tough", but some of the other users on this board said they were decent. I think they made my car look alot better and they have aggressive tread for logging roads and stuff. Driving home with them on the freeway for 30 miles, it rode smoother than my old tires did, but they make a little bit more noise due to the more aggressive tread. My 2 cents.

Ya for sure! With a little patience you can get what you need! Now I just have to wait for some snow to try them out

So I got the 185/80/13 winter trax mounted up today, and they look good Fills the wheel well a lot better. That and the tread is pretty aggresive for a 13" rim Thanks all for the tips, especially the one to give the Fife store a call. Got'em for cheap too! Before (185/70/13): After (185/80/13): Pics of the Tires:

So I got the entire cruise control system (vac pump, controls, computer, and wire bundle) from mdjdc This now should solve all of my problems. Since I already have the reserve vac tank installed, I am just going to plumb it into the setup with the vac pump, that way it will always have enough vacuum to be able to do the cruise correctly Thanks all for the help and the idea of the reserve tank, that was golden. I will post back when I get everything installed and functioning properly. Man I love these forums!!

PM Sent...

Double Post...

I have also discovered the pinout for all the wires coming off of the cruise control computer, so I can now wire in either a legacy or the loyale one vac pump I am also going to try to wire in the steering wheel controls, since I now know what the wires are supposed to go to for the set-decel and resume-accel buttons. I also found out that the controls to power the cruise for the steering wheel controls are on the wiper controls, so I am going to be doing the intermittent wiper swap as well, since I am already there wiring in the cruise Kill two birds with one stone...

So I went to the JY and picked up a HVAC vacuum reserve tank and plumbed it into the cruise control, and my cruise now works WAY better I wouldn't say that it's 100% better, but about 90%. Going up long hills (1/2 mile fairly steep incline), the reserve isn't quite big enough to handle it. So instead of doing 70 all the way up the will, towards the end I might be doing 67 instead. Much better than the 50-55 I would have been doing before I have never been able to accelerate using the cruise either, and I can now accelerate going up small hills even! I was thinking about trying to plumb in another HVAC reserve tank, but I don't know if it's really worth it, but I might since the tank only cost me 3$ I am still looking for the vac pump, that way I will never have an issue again... I have a lead on one, but nothing confirmed quite yet.

Here's some photo's of the cruise control vacuum unit that I have now.

I like your thinking! I think I may have found a vac pump, but still waiting to confirm it's the correct one that I need. I will keep that on the back burner. I will just go to my local pick a part and grab one of the vac tanks from there and use that if I go that route. I like that idea though, good thinkin'

You mentioned that you installed a new thermostat, did you install one from the dealer, or one from the local parts store? From what I hear, the dealer ones are the only ones that work, and all the other ones cause issues with overheating and such. Other than that, maybe it's clogged somewhere in the system and a good flush might help??

I have the exact same issue. Pump pumps, but it all comes out the rear quarter panel. I have not looked at it too much yet...

Sweet, I will keep that in mind. I think that I am going to wait a little while to see if I can find one for a loyale... I am also waiting on my FSM's to arrive (thanks moosens!) so I can look at the wiring for it. The FSM should have the stock vacuum pump on it, so maybe I can compare wire colors/locations to the one that I have (non vacuum pump) to get an idea on where to start with adding a legacy vacuum pump into the system... I went to my local pick a part and took some pictures of a vacuum pump off of a legacy to try to get an idea of what I need to do. The wires don't match of course, but I think I have found the power and the ground, so I have half the wires found, I just need to figure out the air valve and release valve, and I think I will be able to hook it up. I guess I could always just try it one way, and then then other, but I still would like to find the loyale vac pump first. The legacy vac pump should be the same as the loyale one, just different mounting hardware/wire colors, correct? It's not going to destroy what I have now is it? I mean it's got to produce more vacuum than my boosted manifold does I don't see how they could be all THAT different, considering the legacy was also around in 1990, I don't see them making a completely different setup for the two cars. Just modify one to fit in the other... But my thinking could be off on this.