eulogious

I am interested to see how this turns out for you. You didn't happed to document this when you were doing it did you? I would be very interested to see how you did it, and to see the results!

I think pics would be a good addition for sure! That way people can see what happens when you swap heads Or at least what happens when you pay a fool to do the work, and then he swaps the heads. At least this poor owner now has a competent mechanic working on it, so good for them the second time around

Wow, talk about taking WAY to much effort to fix an easy, and obvious problem... I would stop and think to myself, this is not right, let's look at this again, it did not look this way before I touched it. Not, hmm, I am going to fab up some stuff to make this work correctly again, even though it was fine before I got it and it didn't need any fab work before it came to me... Let's see what do I have laying around to "fix" this new problem... Wow, just wow. That takes a special someone to do that, and then to accept it back from the mechanic that way!?!?! I would kick the mechanic in the balls and tell him to keep his hands off of it and then just not pay him and drive away. What a tool... Good story though! I am curious though, did that mod make it go faster at least?

Found the link... http://offroadingsubarus.com/headlight_relaymod.html Have fun!

This should be posted in the new gen forum, so you might get some better help in the new gen forum...

Sounds good, I have a couple more people that also want to go wheelin' down here as well and I will PM you when we actually get a date together, I just haven't been able to go out because of my heater core and what not, but my heater core came today, so it looks like this weekend I might be putting that in, but we shall see...

Google it... I think there might be a post recently with some links to the site, but google is your friend for this one

Well, my advice would be sitting in front of the computer for hours and start digging through the archives Seriously though, I have and do that on a regular basis. More info and background info would also help others in trying to determine your problem, and should have been included in your first post and would have prevent the search function comment I am not trying to be rude or mean, but I always research the hell out of my problem, think about it for a while, write it down and include all the background research I have done and all the info gleaned from such research, re-read it, post, and the start researching some more. If all elses fails or I don't get answers fast enough, I go to the JY, grab my parts, try it and when it fails, add that to the post and keep on trying. Again, not trying to be too mean here, that just my process, and it seems to work well for me I honestly don't know all that much about fuel pumps and such and if I did I would help ya. There are some super smart people on this forum that I am sure can help, but it's slow as well on here at times, so just be patient. Good luck to ya, and I won't pollute this thread anymore with my rants

It's kinda funny, everyone knocks this guy for having ideas. There is nothing wrong with having ideas and writing them out. A forum is a great place to do that. You can get it all out of your head an onto paper, and then ask people what they think. Also with that being said, anyone can say what they want about the idea he has, but don't rag on him for creating posts/ideas. You can say the idea is stupid all you want, everyone has their opinion and a right to that opinion, but it's a little over the top to be treating this guy like a tool just because he likes to write his ideas down and then get opinions on them. Put the idea down, not the individual creating the idea. That's the great thing about a forum and the internet, anyone can access it, and anyone can add to it. Let's not trash anyone for creating ideas, just trash the idea Another great thing about the internet, you can ignore ANYONE you want to. It's easy, just don't read their posts. I think there is even a "blocking" feature for this site so you can "block" threads and reply's from certain people. You don't like uberoo's ideas and find him annoying and his threads stupid, block him, or better yet, just don't read his posts! Remember, I am sure that someone back in the day thought Thomas Edison's ideas where stupid! Not comparing uberoo to Thomas Edison or anything (no offense uberoo), I am just saying that some ideas may seem stupid at the time, but can change the way the world works in the future, one just never knows! Now that my rant is out of the way... Now I will also say that I don't think that this particular idea is that great of an idea. There just seems to be to many points of failure for this to be reliable in any way, which would make me not want to even attempt this. Also not to mention any debris that might get caught in the chain, since you would be offroading. The last time I checked, there are lost of things that would just LOVE to jam up a chain like trees, brush, dirt, mud, water, clay, you name it. Granted you could add a chain guard of some sort, but that wouldn't protect the chain from being smashed up against a tree. But that's just my opinion

Nice! I need to get up to capitol forest soon, looks like fun. I just need to fix my stupid heater core! Keep it up man! Good to see another wheelin' soob in the lacey area!

Good to see! I just found this thread yesterday and was curious about any updates... It looks bad rump roast. Looks like my spidy sense was tingling... Can't wait for the update!

I would try the search function... I have no experience with this issue, but the search button probably does I would just go to your local JY and get one, or just buy a new one, but that's just me...

I mounted my Hella 500FF on the front of my bumper, infront of the grill, rally style Works good. From what I have read about the law, in Washington at least, (keep in mind my only source on this is the internet and you know EVERYTHING you read on the internet is true:rolleyes:), is that in order for them to be wired into your brights, you have to have them something like a maxium of 2 or 3 feet off the ground for driving lights, and under 2 or 3 feet for fog lights. If they are higher than that, they have to be covered while driving. I have also heard that you can run them all the time, as long as you have a MAXIUM of four lights on at any one time, you probably won't get a ticket. So if you have your headlights on, driving lights on, and fog lights on at the same time, you will get pulled over, even if you had your brights on. It's just a matter of when. The fogs are also supposed to turn off with the brights... But it is up to the cop for that one, because the law says that driving lights can only be turned on with the brights, and fog lights are supposed to turn off when the brights turn on. Someone else feel free to correct me on this I am no expert... I have my hella's pointed WAY in, and the hit below the low beams that I don't get flashed by anyone, most of the time. So far so good on no ticket. I have passed several state patrol cars, and a couple local cops, and no one seemed to care. But my light are turned in enough they don't blind people, so I don't think it matters. Just be careful with how you aim them and if you run them all the time, just be prepared for a ticket. So all in all, if you want to get more lights for your brights, they have to be lower than the windshield (give or take some inches on that), at least in WA state, but I think the logic applies across the country... My .02

Here's where I put my boost gauge... Works great for me!

Ya, that's why I found a FSM. For $4 more than the haynes, the FSM is WAY better. Try ebay to find one, for sure it's worth the money. I have already found out a WHOLE bunch of info on my car, and I am sure I will find out more info further into the future Hope your borrowed part fixes it so at least you know what it is. Good luck!

Can anyone say Junk Yard? I am sure a pull a part will give you an open diff for cheap, hell someone on this board might just want to give one away, you never know!

According to my '88 FSM that has the SPFI in it, the part you are looking for is called the "Power Transistor Igniter". It's connected right next to the coil in the diagrams, so it's gotta be your part. It's for sure in the diagrams in my FSM and it's mentioned when talking about the Ignition Coil. Doesn't have a part number, but that should get you somewhere. Hope that helps ya! Edit: Figured I would quote what the "Power Transistor Igniter" does from the FSM: "The power transistor amplifies the ignition signal transmitted from the fuel injection control unit. The amplified signal is used to make and break the current flowing though the primary winding of the ignition coil." So ya, it's your part

It's located on the passenger side strut tower in the engine compartment. It's the round thing on top facing towards the front of the car. Can't really miss it. Once you find it, you should be able to follow the wires. Mine does the same thing, so I just installed a vac/boost gauge to make sure it's producing boost and the correct amount of boost, but I am also going to replace mine with a used one, just so the light comes on. Hope that helps

Does this apply to the MPFI/turbo's as well? I have a 1990 turbo loyale and was wondering if the same principals applied to that as well because I get the smoke on the long right hand turns, but since it's a turbo I didn't know if it applied or not, since the turbo introduces positive pressure to the system... but my thinking could be off on this as well. Thanks for explaining it better, now I understand how the system works and why it was "flawed", now I just need clarification on my damn turbo Thanks GD!

Or you can be like me, and just run it BONE stock! These things aren't race cars, it's a wagon! I know the RX is different, but for us wagon owners, I am just happy that I have 20 more hp and 30 more ft lbs of torque over stock. These things run fine stock, just remember that it's a 20 year old wagon and be happy it's got some, although small, balls BTW that is a very clean engine. I am kinda jealous of that...

Idles at 850 to 900 most of the time, so idle is fine, and I adjusted it when I got the car. I think the heating element went out on mine. Today before I left work I started my car and let it idle, and it was idling high (1500) again, so I let it warm up for a bit longer, and then drove it home. By the time I got home which was about 10 min later, it was idling fine (900). So my conclusion is that the heating element broke or I am not getting power to the AAV so therefore the engine is the only thing that is warming up the temp switch, so it just takes FOREVER to warm up completely. I am leaning towards the heating element is breaking/broke for me since the problem is intermittent at best. This is just a guess though and any other insight would be appreciated. My turbo is a 1990 loyale wagon, so it's about as later as you can get, and I have the AAV, not the IAC. Also in my 88 FSM, it's referred to as the AAV on the turbo model, so I don't think this statement is true, but correct me if I am wrong.

We turbo owners don't really have an IAC, we have an AAV (Auxiliary Air Valve) that does the same thing. It's the thing located on top of the temp sensor, i believe. I have been having weird idle issues as well, but really only in cold weather, until today actually, and I was thinking about posting about it, and then you beat me to it. So today I went out on my work break and sat in my car with it idling, and it wouldn't drop below 1500, even after 20 min of idling, so it was for sure warm. I turned it off, and then on about 3 times and the idle would start off at 900 to 1000 and then about 5 seconds later it would slowly climb to 1500 and stay there. I turned it off, went inside and came back out about 30 min later, started it and no idle problems. So ya. Same sorta issue. I am going to replace the AAV and see if that helps, I just need to get down to Turbones to pick it up, but time has just not been my friend lately. The one thing that I am going to double check is to see if it's getting power to the AAV. I believe that the AAV is just a valve with a heat sensitive switch in it and a heating element. When you start the car, the heating element turns on and slowly heats up the switch causing it to slowly close, lowering the idle as it goes. Somebody correct me if I am wrong on this, that's just what it sounds like it does to me. Other than checking for power and replacing it, I am stumped... I have asked how to clean it and didn't get a response, but cleaning it might help as well. I honestly haven't had too much time to look into it any farther than this...

Don't you love it when the easiest solution is the best? Glad you got it working! Now just don't go running it into stuff and you should be all good!

I would experiment with different resistance. The only problem is that you need another source to actually temp the motor to make sure it's running correctly and at the proper temp before messing around with the resistors to much and messing up the gauge. Now that I am done with the disclaimer... From the sounds of it, lower resistance should raise the gauge more so a 275ohm resistor as mention before me should help make the gauge go farther up the line. If that doesn't work, try another one, etc, etc... It should be that simple, but you know you that goes. My 2 cents. PS Great writeup and glad you got it going!! Now I just have to wait for my ea82t to stop running so well!

Or just don't quit drinking!!! Unfortunately I will not have a hangover problem, I am at work, and have been since 11:30pm last night Oh well Congrats on owning a Subie again!