eulogious

I PM'ed ya... I think it might be the AAV, do the AAV test by pinching the hose coming from the AAV...

Ok, so I got the switch fixed for the most part, and I installed the DCCD knob and it works! Granted the switch is a total hack job, and the second position I couldn't get to work, but I got FWD, Normal, 150%, 200%, and 4WD. I should have a 75% after FWD, but like I said I couldn't get that to work and I really don't care at the moment about that. I took it for a test drive and I tell you what, the AWD upgrade makes a HUGE difference. I couldn't really ever tell before, but driving around in a little bit of rain in FWD, the tires were spinning like mad! Flip the switch to "normal" and there is virtually NO slippage what so ever. It's AWESOME! The 4WD switch works as well, since I get torque bind in the corners with it on , so I know that I am in 4WD. Here's some pics for ya: Here's my super small switch: Each number that you see is supposed to be a pin :-\ This is zoomed in as well. I am not proud of this solder job at all, but considering I had hardly any pins to work with, I am actually proud I got it to work. The only reason being it's soooo small. Here's a size comparison to a lighter: Here's another shot, the piece of wire with solder on it is 20 AWG: Here's some photo's of my diode board that I made since I couldn't solder a diode in between each pole of the switch due to it's size: I then proceeded to incase the whole thing in hot glue to protect it from shorting and the elements: Here's the whole setup: So I am not happy with how the switch actually turned out, so I am going to order a new one and learn from my mistakes on this one and get all of the positions working like they should. I also found out that my mounting whole for the switch in my dash is about a 1/8 in to high, so the reason why the pins are breaking is because the switch is pushed up an 1/8 of an inch, therefore breaking some of the pins So I am going to fix this as well when I install my new switch. But for the time being it works the way it should, and it's pretty sweet Now the only thing that I have left to do is figure out why the tcuscan software wasn't working for me. So far so good, only one thing left to go!

Ok, so I figured I would update this thread finally after fixing the problem. It was the AAV. How I tested it was pinching the hose coming from the AAV and going to the manifold I believe. I could be wrong on where the tube goes, but if I remember correctly there is only one tube coming from the AAV, so you can't really miss it. I took a pair of pliers and pinched that hose and the idle dropped, so I knew it was the AAV. I then found one from Turbone (thanks!), installed it and it has been fine ever since! It's great not having a car idle at 1800 RPM

That's lame, I should have expected that though. It probably cost a couple grand more too I suppose *sigh*

Dude, badass! I have always like the mini's because they were quirky, but that's looks sweet. Lifted and 4wd in a mini? That's a sweet combo. Almost like a justy on crack

My clock was the same way. All I did was reheat the old solder in a few place, and add a little to some others. Think it was maybe 8 solder spots total. Took about 3 tries to get all the connections solder better and about 15 min total, but it fixed it right up. If I was closer I would do it for you. It's super simple. You really don't even need any soldering skills. I just picked up a 15watt radio shack soldering iron for about $8, and some solder for about $2 and went to town on the clock. What's the worst that can happen, you break a clock that's already borken? I would give it a try, you might be surprised on what you can accomplish. Soldering isn't that hard to do, and it's a good thing to know, especially when working on these older cars. My 2 cents.

An update. I ran into some troubles today with making my dccd knob. My six position rotatory switch is apparently a 9 position rotatory switch now. I don't know how that happened, but from when I had it on the bench testing it and turning the knob, there was only six positions, but when I got it into my car, what I thought was pin 1 was really pin 3 apparently and it had 9 positions instead of the six it had on the bench. Must of have needed more torque on bench when turning the knob I don't know why they even labeled the switch if pin 1 isn't the 1st position of the switch :-\ So I have to redo my switch, which doesn't sound like a big deal, except for these pins are so small, and I clipped the ones I thought I wouldn't need. Like pins 7 through 10, since it's supposed to only be a six position switch. Also in the process, I also broke 2 pins off, so now I have to redo the switch with half the pins to solder too Now I would go buy a new switch, but I have to special order it and it's $26 :mad: So I am really pissed. I think that I might be able to fix it, but it's going to be a challenge. I will take photos of how small this switch is, it's ridiculously small. It's great because I have a perfect spot for it and if it was bigger it wouldn't mount up easily, but seriously what a PITA. I honestly don't know if I will get this done anytime soon, since I am pissed at it and really don't care to fix it right now. Stupid switch. Hopefully soon I will have the dccd knob in.

There's an idea, but from what I have seen and used of bluetooth, it's not very friendly and it's SLOW and doesn't like interference. Granted if I could find something cheap that could transmit the two signals, I would be interested in trying it... Something I will keep on the back burner, thanks for the idea!

Thanks Well I thought about that and the problem that I will run into is getting the wires for the steering wheel to the steering column. I could remove my cruise controls that I just installed, but i don't really want to do that since I use my cruise everyday, I want to keep them around. If you have any idea on how to do that, I would totally do that. In fact I would probably steal some actual paddles from a car somewhere and get them in there, but I just can't run anymore wires I wish though... I still have some ideas about building a different assembly, but I want to try this out first and see how I like it.

I added paddle shifters to my 4EAT Here's my build thread: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?p=914048#post914048 It's alot more fun to drive now!

Ok got the paddle shifters mounted, wired in, and working It's really sweet and they work great! I have a couple design flaws to work out, but they will work for now. Here's some pics: The thing that I didn't count on or think about when using these toggles switches was that they will rotate So right now they paddles rotate, and that's annoying, but I think I will just weld a guide plate above my coupler to keep it from rotating too much. They also look a little out of place/ghetto, but hey, who else do you know has paddle shifters! I choose this way as well because it super easy to swap out any parts that get broken, and the whole setup is super simple, so less to go wrong. I will try these out for a few days and see how they work, but so far they work well, and man the paddle shifters are alot of fun! Makes the auto not so bad anymore Now onto my DCCD knob, but I don't know when I will get around to that. Hopfully I will have some time today/this afternoon to start working on it, but we shall see. Now off to test drive the paddle shifters some more

What, you haven't driven it yet, C'MON! Nice work man, it's good to see a proper motor in that car, I can already tell this thing is going to be FAST! Keep up the good work, looks sick!

Ok, so I made some progress today. I ran six more wires from the TCU up to the front of the car, so the wires are all ready for the paddle shifter assembly that I am building tomorrow I think that I might try to get the DCCD knob worked out today or Monday, not sure which, but I should have all the goodies wired in and working by Monday evening! Pics: All ready and waiting for the paddle shifters! I am getting close to wrapping this all up and I am getting all excited to use the paddle shifters!

Well I just looked at my FSM and all it has is the SPFI, and I take it you need the carb version, and I don't have it. Sorry dude

Well, I am glad you made some progress! My system has a hard line that runs across the top of the engine compartment that then connects to a "soft" line, if you have something like that, check it, there could be a crack in the hard line that you can't really see. I would just replace all the vacuum hoses with new just to be on the safe side, that stuff is cheap enough that it really can't hurt. Sounds like you are at least are on the right path!

I would still think that it has something to do with the vacuum or lack thereof. My car had almost the exact same symptoms, and since they are two different types of cruise systems, but they have the same problem, and the only common thing is that they both work off of vacuum, I would suspect the cruise vacuum system. I would try to test to see how much vacuum is in the system at freeway speeds. A little hard to do, but that's the only time you have a problem, so that's when you need to test it. That's where I would spend my time until I ruled out for sure that I have no vacuum leaks at all in the cruise system. Another option is to just get a dealer installed kit like mine and rig it into your car. The system is designed to be installed separately, so it will be easy to install if you can find one. Just a thought.

I don't know anything about the ea81 cruise system I have an ea82, but I take it it's vac controlled? I had this same issueish with my cruise, but it's because I was losing vacuum, so therefore it couldn't hold the speed at freeway speeds, but around town it was fine. So you might want to check for vacuum leaks. If it's like mine, it's got an actuator by the pedal, if you have one of these, is it functioning properly? It could have an internal leak so the system can't hold pressure anymore. Same goes for the control unit for the vacuum system (not the cruise computer, this controls how much vacuum to apply to the pedal actuator itself). Mine is a separate unit, so if it develop an internal leak, it would cause the whole system to lose pressure as well. The computer failing just for high speeds, seems very unlikely. When these systems fail, usually they totally fail, or just a certain function, but since it works at low speeds, that would tell me that the computer is at least sending the signal to do something (this would be the function I was talking about, being able to send a signal), the system is just mechanically not able to do what the computer asked. Though anything is possible when dealing with older computers, they tended to do some funky stuff to make things "work", so the computer could be bad as well, but that would be the last thing I would check. So I would check for vacuum leaks/leaky, loose, broke hoses to startoff, then other suspect parts like the pedal actuator and the actual contol unit for the vac system, and then finally I would think about looking at the cruise computer. Again, assuming it's like mine and vacuum controlled... Hope this helps!

Sorry I haven't posted anything yet, I haven't been able to take a pic... My wife's had the camera and I haven't seen her to get it, but maybe tonight... I hope you worked it out in the mean time though...

I would try mothers back to black. I just used it on my headlight switch that was ash colored and it made it black. Very impressed. It's not a "black" paint like stuff or anything, it just helps return the plastic back to its natural color. The product itself is white, so don't let the name fool you It's good stuff. Cost about $5.

My FSM should work for you. I have to run home here in a few hours, I will snap some pics of the pages and post them up for you!

What year is your car? Like I said, I got an FSM for an 87 that I could take photos of the vac line pages for you if you need, let me know... Congrats on getting the car running!

I think thursday will work, in the morning, after "traffic" clears up should be fine, that is unless you fix it before then of course! I will PM you later today/tonight to confirm/swap info.

Thanks. I am just trying to copy the really smart guy here. This whole project has been a challenge for sure. Let's just say before I started this my soldering skill were adequate to say the least But between soldering in 30 wires for the harness and replacing transistors, I can now remove a 28 pin chip off of a pcb board without messing anything up, so they have improved just a little. It's been alot of fun as well. I have been taking pics along the way to document this, since I am doing it I might was well try to help others. It's good practice to document for my line of work anyways, so I will have lots of pics and I will explain everything once I get it all going. I hope that I can show that someone without a lot of experience can do this sort of thing if you put your mind to it. I am just really persistent and I refuse to let a computer, or a car for that matter, beat me! That's one of the main reasons I like computers, there is always a fix, and a right and wrong. You just need to know how to do it, but it makes finding the answer easier, because you know it exists. Same applies to cars, and that's why I started learning about cars. It either works or it doesn't, there is no in between. Works much better that way

Hey dude, I got a 1990 loyale turbo... so most of it's the same. I can come down and visit ya, but not tomorrow/today whatever day it is. I actually work nights as well so that timing is fine for me, but tonight/today is my long night (I have already been up for 22 hours :-\), but maybe some other time this week? I also have a 87 FSM that might help you out as well if you would like to look at it... Let me know, I really don't have anything going on...

Got the same truck! I love it. I need to replace a screw in the trans on mine, it's only $3 but it's about an hour of labor to replace it, and I just haven't done it yet. That and I need a new fuel tank by now as well I love nitro stuff Now where's all your whirly birds and aeroplanes Controlling things in the air is SOOOOOOO much more fun