eulogious

This is something that I have heard MIGHT affect a car with ABS, but since I don't have ABS I can't confirm this but here it is... I have heard that if you don't use a vacuum type brake bleeder for ABS cars, you can't bleed the brakes completely, still leaving a little bit of air in the lines. This has something to do with the ABS pump and the vacuum it produces. Here's a pic of the bleeder that I was told to get if I had ABS brakes: http://shop.oreillyauto.com/ProductDetail.aspx?MfrCode=MTV&MfrPartNumber=MV8000&CategoryCode=3378 Don't know if what I said is true, but it might be something to consider. Also if I am completely off base, please correct me on this. I would like to know if this is true or not myself... Just a thought...

My 4EAT in my loyale turbo was doing the same thing when I got it. The PO had piped the vent tubes for the trans directly onto the intake, so when I hit boost and created positive pressure in the intake, so therefore it squirted fluid out, but that was when I hit boost, not when it was just idling. I would check the vent hoses to see if they are clogged. There should be two of them, located on top of the trans, and they should just vent air. This is also assuming that the trans wasn't overfilled to begin with so make sure you check that first... Oh, and you do know that you need to have the trans warmed up (drive 10+ miles) and engine idling when you check it, and that there are two marks on the stick? A cold level and a hot level. If it's squirting stuff out, it sounds like you have it running, but since it wasn't stated in your post, I just want to make sure the basics are covered and we aren't missing something simple

The easiest way I found is using a '*' at the end of the word, so to search for 'PVC' you would search for 'PVC*' This has always worked for me! Just thought I would throw that tip in there...

^^^Nice pics, thanks for that!

If you just need to drive the car around on dry pavement, you can just throw a fuse in the FWD fuse holder and drive it around in FWD, and then if you need AWD, just pull over and remove the fuse and you will have AWD again. I know it's alittle bit of a pain, but you could still drive the car around. Just an idea. Good luck!

I should be marked on the back of the LSD. There should be a silver label on it that tells what the ratio is, at least it's that way with the ea82 body series, so unless it changed...

Oh, I should add that this is fantastic! I LOVE the look of a lifted legacy, and if a lift kit becomes available that you can just buy and not have to fab up yourself, I would LOVE to get a legacy Looks like this is going to be a good build, I look forward to seeing the final product! Keep up the good work!

Ya, presslab is a smart guy when it comes to that stuff. I got a cool project that I am in the middle of right now and presslab has helped me out ALOT in understanding the code to make it work, so thats the only reason why I kinda get it It's because I have recently been working with the TCU's that I thought to chime in as well, so I hope that some of this info helps the OP out!

If you are willing to separate the diff, I might be interested in it. Is the diff open or LSD? Oh and I guess the year of the car would be good as well. I need an early 90's diff because I am going to be putting an EJ 4EAT in my loyale and I need a diff that has the stubs. So ya dibs on the diff

I guess the better to question to ask would be, how else would the TCU detect if the rear needed power? By slippage, or the difference between the speed of the front wheels versus the back wheels. The back wheels are connected to the drive shaft, which is then turning inside the trans via the rear output shaft, so VSS1 i believe is reading shaft speed out the back, but that is essentially how fast the back tires are turning. With that being said, having a 3.7 rear diff compared to a 4.11 is a 6% difference in how fast the wheels are turning, therefore possibly throwing out a error and disabling the TCU. The actual TCU code (yes I have seen it, out of a legacy anyways, and they didn't change the code that much across product lines or years for that matter, still same CPU and memory) is expecting a certain tire size (actually a certain number of tire revolutions per min to be exact) and diff ratio to calculate the speed differences between the two. It has to determine how fast the front wheels are turning, then compare it to how fast the rear should be turning. If either one of those numbers are not what the TCU is expecting, it COULD mess it up and disable the AWD because it thinks one of the VSS' is off/broke because it's expecting a different number than it is getting. Not saying it will always, but just saying it could. The reason why this comes up is when presslab installed his paddle shifters for his 4eat into his loyale, the TCU he was using was expecting a 4.11 (it was out of a legacy) and his loyale had a 3.7, and the AWD would not work for him until he figured out the difference (6%) and change the value in the TCU rom code itself, then the AWD started working again. Again I only really bring this up because he is trouble shooting his trans, so it would be wise to use a TCU with the same diff ratio just to be on the safe side and not add anymore problems to the ones he already has. I am not disagreeing with you at all, just pointing out what could POSSIBLY happen

^^^ Very good explanation! But I think you forgot one thing, the diff ratio should be the same, ie if you have a 4.11 diff, get a tcu out of another car with a 4.11 diff. Don't get me wrong, it will work even if the diff ratios aren't the same, but the AWD COULD get messed up if the ratio's aren't close enough together, so if you are trouble shooting, just get the same diff ratio TCU just to make sure you aren't causing any more problems.

I just found this article talking about rewiring the lights with relays and it explains the high beam indicator problem. It's a good read if you want some more info on rewiring all the stock lights. http://offroadingsubarus.com/headlight_relaymod.html

This should help you out, it shows how to complete rewire the lights using new relays, and it shows both the quad setup and the dual setup. Good luck, and let us know how it turns out! http://offroadingsubarus.com/headlight_relaymod.html Edit: After a quick read, it also explains the high beam indicator problem as well, if that applies of course

You should try to host the file on a file host service, megaupload, rapidshare, something like that. I would gladly help if I could see the docs, or at least a jpg of the schematic. I would like to help ya, but I can't send PM's to you yet...

These are the diagrams that I made to install my off road lights. It's a little complicated using relays, but I get the relays for $3 including a harness, so that's why I did it this way... And to add more lights Now the first diagram has two ways to turn on the lights, one to have the lights come on with the brights, and a second one is wired to it's own lighted switch so that you can turn the lights on whenever you want, without having to turn on your brights. Then there is another lighted switch that controls the individual set of lights. My goal was to be able to turn on all the lights with the brights on, turn them all on without the brights on, and then to be able to control each pair of lights by themselves. This way when I go to wire in more lights, it's already setup for me, all I have to do is wire them in. Also I wired them this way because at no point is the power load of the lights going through any of my switches, it just goes through the 40A relay, instead of the 6A lighted switch. You could remove some of the relays, but you would be running the entire load of the lights through one of the switches, which is a bad idea, especially if you plan on adding more lights than just one set. Like I said, it's a little complicated, but it allows you to have complete control of the lights, and you aren't running a large load through any switches. Let me know if you have any questions on my diagrams, I will help out as much as I can Oh, and the first relay in the first diagram has the correct wires to have it come on with the brights, and only the brights. I updated this diagram after installing my lights and getting them to work they way I wanted. On my first try, they were always on with the lights, brights or no brights So after resoldering it all again, I updated the diagram so I wouldn't do that again The subaru light system is common grounded, so it's a little different than most and a little more tricky. There's some good threads about it on here, I believe skip explains it quite nicely, just search for it.

I don't have the sticker, but I got the dealer invoice from the purchase! That was cool to look at. I actually got factory Subaru tint that is still good! Gotta love it when the original owner keeps that stuff around!

You are correct about what the VSS' are, they are the vehicle speed sensors. Here's a link to a site that has some pdf's on the 4EAT: http://www.endwrench.com/archive/sysdrive.html There should be lots of info in there for you about the trans, where the sensors are, and probably how to diagnose problems as well. Of course there is a possibility that the TCU is bad, but it is rare that it would fail, and usually if it did fail, the whole thing wouldn't work, just not one part of it, usually. Yes the TCU controls the Duty C solenoid (AWD), and basically everything else with the trans. That's why it's called the 4EAT, 4spd Electronic Automatic Transmission. Instead of using mechanical means to control the trans, it uses a computer, for most of it anyways. Of course there are still mechanical aspects to the trans, but a majority of the trans is control by the TCU. What you could do is go to a pull a part, grab a TCU out of a car that is similar and try it. Most of the time the PAP will let you try the part to see if it fixes the problem, and if it doesn't you can return it and they don't charge you for it. Mine does that anyways. Just a thought. I wish I new more mechanically about the 4EAT to help you out more, but I don't, so I would look through some of those docs and see if they can help you test the sensors. I might have the info in my FSM on how to replace and test the sensors, but it's at home and I won't be there for a while. Like I said, hopefully someone will chime in who has done this before!

Hello and welcome! Let's see if I can help here... From the sound of it, the cable is fine, but it seems the gear isn't attached to the cable anymore, and that's why it's not working for you. I believe you will have to tear down the trans in order to get the gear to go back on, but I could be wrong since I have not done this myself. As for the 16 flashes from the power light, that relates to the Duty C solenoid which controls the AWD, and the AWD needs to have both speed sensors (one in the front of the trans, one in the back) working in order to function, so it looks like one of you sensors is broke, which would tie into the speedo issue you are having. Here's a link to a post that has some good info at tearing down a 4EAT trans and a good look at the speedo gear in the trans: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=84923&highlight=Legacy+trans It's post #9 with the pics. Gloyale took some good photos, so they might help you out. I would be careful driving around with the trans in that condition, mainly because when the duty C solenoid goes into "limp mode" it locks the MPT clutch effectively giving you 4WD all the time, and that is bad. It creates the torque bind issue that comes up with the 4EAT. So I would limit my driving until the trans is fixed. I think that is all the help that I can offer! Hopefully someone with more experience in taking these trans apart will chime in!

Well, I can tell you this much, the reason the AWD works for a min or so and then quits is because the TCU errors out, and then stops the AWD from working, basically it's going into limp mode. There's a couple of things that you can try to check. I would check ALL the speed sensors, VSS1, VSS2, for sure. If either one of the VSS' are broke, the TCU can't calculate if there is any difference in the speed of the 2 sensors so that it can transfer more power to the rear, or to the front. The TCU needs both of those sensors working in order for the AWD to function properly. If one of them is broke, the TCU automatically puts the car in FWD mode so that you can drive it home. That's where I would check first. I find it really weird that it is not giving some sort of error code though, that is strange. Unfortunatley I don't know how to check those sensors, but maybe some else can help with that? I think that this might be your problem. If some of the solenoid fail, they have different symptoms, and the one VSS' being broke is the first thing that pops into my mind when dealing with AWD. After that, I would start measuring the resistance of all the solenoids in the trans. Something is failing, which is causing the TCU to go into limp mode, which is causing your AWD not to work. You mentioned that you are using a trans from a different car, are the diff ratios the same for the two cars? I know that if the diff ratios are different between the two trans, and you use the wrong TCU, that MIGHT cause an error because it's expecting a different speed out of one of the sensors, and since it's not getting what it expects the TCU thinks the VSS failed, and then puts it into FWD mode. Just a thought...

This might seem like a dumb idea, and probably already checked, but since it wasn't posted... Did you check the T-belts? Make sure the disty is actually turning... Other than that, I can't be much help...

My thoughts would be to just bang up your hands and leave the system as it is. If it just needs recharged, and you have the ability to charge it, then why break it? Just bang up your hands and recharge the system and be happy with the AC Just my 2 cents

Just buy a sealed battery if you are worried about it getting wet. Relocating it would really be just for fun, and have no real purpose I would think. I am going to have to relocate the battery in my MR2 because there isn't enough room for an intercooler AND a turbo in the engine compartment, so I have to relocate it to the front to make room. So unless you are going to be adding something that is too big to fit in the engine compartment, then I would go with a good sealed battery if you are worried about it getting wet while wheeling. That way you would also have a good power source for all those off road lights you will have as well

+10 It's good to know that I am not the only one Seriously though, the air soft is awesome for training. Now all it takes is me putting a round in the air soft gun, and the cats are gone. I don't even have to fire it. It only took them once to learn Man, I love kitties

Nice pus... cat, I mean wagon Congrats on expanding the fleet!

If it's an EA82 car, then there should not be a difference. The Loyale (your car I believe) is the same as a DL from 1989, basically. There might be a few cosmetic difference, but the bulk of the mechanical stuff is the same, so your 1989 FSM should work great for you. I bought a copy of an 1988 FSM to use with my 1990 Loyale Turbo Wagon and so far everything as been the same, including the turbo stuff. I would highly recommend picking up a physical copy of the FSM, very much worth the money. I got mine for $24 shipped Good luck!