eulogious

These are the diagrams that I made to install my off road lights. It's a little complicated using relays, but I get the relays for $3 including a harness, so that's why I did it this way... And to add more lights Now the first diagram has two ways to turn on the lights, one to have the lights come on with the brights, and a second one is wired to it's own lighted switch so that you can turn the lights on whenever you want, without having to turn on your brights. Then there is another lighted switch that controls the individual set of lights. My goal was to be able to turn on all the lights with the brights on, turn them all on without the brights on, and then to be able to control each pair of lights by themselves. This way when I go to wire in more lights, it's already setup for me, all I have to do is wire them in. Also I wired them this way because at no point is the power load of the lights going through any of my switches, it just goes through the 40A relay, instead of the 6A lighted switch. You could remove some of the relays, but you would be running the entire load of the lights through one of the switches, which is a bad idea, especially if you plan on adding more lights than just one set. Like I said, it's a little complicated, but it allows you to have complete control of the lights, and you aren't running a large load through any switches. Let me know if you have any questions on my diagrams, I will help out as much as I can Oh, and the first relay in the first diagram has the correct wires to have it come on with the brights, and only the brights. I updated this diagram after installing my lights and getting them to work they way I wanted. On my first try, they were always on with the lights, brights or no brights So after resoldering it all again, I updated the diagram so I wouldn't do that again The subaru light system is common grounded, so it's a little different than most and a little more tricky. There's some good threads about it on here, I believe skip explains it quite nicely, just search for it.

I don't have the sticker, but I got the dealer invoice from the purchase! That was cool to look at. I actually got factory Subaru tint that is still good! Gotta love it when the original owner keeps that stuff around!

You are correct about what the VSS' are, they are the vehicle speed sensors. Here's a link to a site that has some pdf's on the 4EAT: http://www.endwrench.com/archive/sysdrive.html There should be lots of info in there for you about the trans, where the sensors are, and probably how to diagnose problems as well. Of course there is a possibility that the TCU is bad, but it is rare that it would fail, and usually if it did fail, the whole thing wouldn't work, just not one part of it, usually. Yes the TCU controls the Duty C solenoid (AWD), and basically everything else with the trans. That's why it's called the 4EAT, 4spd Electronic Automatic Transmission. Instead of using mechanical means to control the trans, it uses a computer, for most of it anyways. Of course there are still mechanical aspects to the trans, but a majority of the trans is control by the TCU. What you could do is go to a pull a part, grab a TCU out of a car that is similar and try it. Most of the time the PAP will let you try the part to see if it fixes the problem, and if it doesn't you can return it and they don't charge you for it. Mine does that anyways. Just a thought. I wish I new more mechanically about the 4EAT to help you out more, but I don't, so I would look through some of those docs and see if they can help you test the sensors. I might have the info in my FSM on how to replace and test the sensors, but it's at home and I won't be there for a while. Like I said, hopefully someone will chime in who has done this before!

Hello and welcome! Let's see if I can help here... From the sound of it, the cable is fine, but it seems the gear isn't attached to the cable anymore, and that's why it's not working for you. I believe you will have to tear down the trans in order to get the gear to go back on, but I could be wrong since I have not done this myself. As for the 16 flashes from the power light, that relates to the Duty C solenoid which controls the AWD, and the AWD needs to have both speed sensors (one in the front of the trans, one in the back) working in order to function, so it looks like one of you sensors is broke, which would tie into the speedo issue you are having. Here's a link to a post that has some good info at tearing down a 4EAT trans and a good look at the speedo gear in the trans: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=84923&highlight=Legacy+trans It's post #9 with the pics. Gloyale took some good photos, so they might help you out. I would be careful driving around with the trans in that condition, mainly because when the duty C solenoid goes into "limp mode" it locks the MPT clutch effectively giving you 4WD all the time, and that is bad. It creates the torque bind issue that comes up with the 4EAT. So I would limit my driving until the trans is fixed. I think that is all the help that I can offer! Hopefully someone with more experience in taking these trans apart will chime in!

Well, I can tell you this much, the reason the AWD works for a min or so and then quits is because the TCU errors out, and then stops the AWD from working, basically it's going into limp mode. There's a couple of things that you can try to check. I would check ALL the speed sensors, VSS1, VSS2, for sure. If either one of the VSS' are broke, the TCU can't calculate if there is any difference in the speed of the 2 sensors so that it can transfer more power to the rear, or to the front. The TCU needs both of those sensors working in order for the AWD to function properly. If one of them is broke, the TCU automatically puts the car in FWD mode so that you can drive it home. That's where I would check first. I find it really weird that it is not giving some sort of error code though, that is strange. Unfortunatley I don't know how to check those sensors, but maybe some else can help with that? I think that this might be your problem. If some of the solenoid fail, they have different symptoms, and the one VSS' being broke is the first thing that pops into my mind when dealing with AWD. After that, I would start measuring the resistance of all the solenoids in the trans. Something is failing, which is causing the TCU to go into limp mode, which is causing your AWD not to work. You mentioned that you are using a trans from a different car, are the diff ratios the same for the two cars? I know that if the diff ratios are different between the two trans, and you use the wrong TCU, that MIGHT cause an error because it's expecting a different speed out of one of the sensors, and since it's not getting what it expects the TCU thinks the VSS failed, and then puts it into FWD mode. Just a thought...

This might seem like a dumb idea, and probably already checked, but since it wasn't posted... Did you check the T-belts? Make sure the disty is actually turning... Other than that, I can't be much help...

My thoughts would be to just bang up your hands and leave the system as it is. If it just needs recharged, and you have the ability to charge it, then why break it? Just bang up your hands and recharge the system and be happy with the AC Just my 2 cents

Just buy a sealed battery if you are worried about it getting wet. Relocating it would really be just for fun, and have no real purpose I would think. I am going to have to relocate the battery in my MR2 because there isn't enough room for an intercooler AND a turbo in the engine compartment, so I have to relocate it to the front to make room. So unless you are going to be adding something that is too big to fit in the engine compartment, then I would go with a good sealed battery if you are worried about it getting wet while wheeling. That way you would also have a good power source for all those off road lights you will have as well

+10 It's good to know that I am not the only one Seriously though, the air soft is awesome for training. Now all it takes is me putting a round in the air soft gun, and the cats are gone. I don't even have to fire it. It only took them once to learn Man, I love kitties

Nice pus... cat, I mean wagon Congrats on expanding the fleet!

If it's an EA82 car, then there should not be a difference. The Loyale (your car I believe) is the same as a DL from 1989, basically. There might be a few cosmetic difference, but the bulk of the mechanical stuff is the same, so your 1989 FSM should work great for you. I bought a copy of an 1988 FSM to use with my 1990 Loyale Turbo Wagon and so far everything as been the same, including the turbo stuff. I would highly recommend picking up a physical copy of the FSM, very much worth the money. I got mine for $24 shipped Good luck!

:lol::lol: Where do you insert the quarters for the suction thingy... Good times with funny phrases.

Well, I am all out of ideas. Good luck finding the info!

Did you try searching for it, and then use google cache to load the old page? Don't know if google actually caches craigslist stuff or not, but it would be a good start... Just an idea

Well, I would test the fan off the car to see if it still works. If the fan works, then it must be the switch that turns it on. So I would check to see if the fan has actually failed first, and if it has, I would look into a new fan. If the fan works out of the car, then I would buy a new switch. If the fan is infact dead, I have heard of some of the EJ swap guys buying new thin fans off ebay for cheap, so that might be a good option for you. Check out the retrofitting section, then might have some ideas for you. Of course the JY is closer and faster, but it's a used part. I would personally buy a new fan and then I wouldn't have to worry about it again for a LONG time. Especially since these cars are sensitive to heat...

THAT SUCKS! Talk about a string of bad luck! Well, since that's out of the way, you should have smooth sailing with no bad luck for a while! Good luck fixing up your car and garage, and keep us updated on your progress. Gotta love stupid people

Edit: Posting at the same time, YAY ^^ What they said Congrats on your first Subie! Did you check your timing belts? They could have broke. If the car has sat for a long time, the belts could have rotted but held together for 20 seconds, and then broke. Check to make sure the distributor is turning when you crank the car over, that should tell you if your timing belts are broke or not. That would be the first thing that I would check, and then I would check all the other stuff. The T-Belts like to go out on these cars all the time. Luckily it won't mess anything up with the car, and it's a fairly forward process replacing them, so it's not THAT big of a deal if they do go. That being said, I have not had to replace one yet, so I am no expert on that subject at all, but this issues seems to come up quite a bit on here...

Nice! So there is going to be more than one EJ22T RXs on the board now, in fact multiple ones, good stuff. That will be a fun project for sure, especially with the MS in it!

So when are you going to get the LCDash? It looks sweet, and I am actually going to install one when I get do the MS to my MR2, but it would be great in a Subaru for sure! This is really good stuff!

This is sweet! Good work! I am planning on running of these in my MR2 when I get around to rebuilding it, so it's good to see the kit isn't THAT hard to assemble. Thanks for the writeup on getting it to work with the turbo!

6 year old thread revival, whoo hoo!

I picked up all three FSMs (sections 2-6) for an '88 for $24 bucks on this site, so just keep your eyes open and sometimes good deals come up! Very glad I picked them up, that's for sure. Already helped me out a bunch. Well worth the investment...

That's sick looking! :slobber: Very nice. I only wish I had a hatch Good work! Love those tires!

Really?!?!?! You didn't see the sticky at the top of this section?!?!? chux did a entire write up in PDF format. READ THE WHOLE THREAD. The link at the beginning does not work. I would grab a FSM, either from the classified section here or off ebay. They have ALL the info you need. I got mine for $24 plus shipping, hell of a deal I would say some research is in order, and then post back with some specific questions about the swap you want to do

I think chux will do it for about $250 I believe... He has a website that might have more info. There are also a couple of other members here that have done the wiring and will do it for a fee as well. I am not sure who though, so you would have to look into that some more. It seems a little daunting, especially if you are not good with a soldering iron and reading electrical diagrams The wiring is straight forward as well, it's just time consuming to deal with. I think that I am going to attempt to do my own harness when I go to do mine swap, but we shall see how that goes when the time comes. I think that it's going to be something that I work on over time so I can take the time to do it correctly. Man I love Subarus!