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Update: On my break at work, I went into our parking garage and parked the car on an incline, took the rad cap off, and let the engine warm up. The radiator was higher than the heater core I believe. The incline I was parked on was about 45 degrees or so. Well, nothing changed. I let the car warm up and the temp went to right above the half way point and stayed there. I sat there for about an 1/2 hour, and then took it on a short drive. It got a little hotter on the drive, but it wasn't near the red. I then parked to see if it would cool down, and the temp stayed the same. I must have an air bubble, but a simple park it and let it warm up on an incline didn't help or burp it. Did I do that right? I didn't have the resources or the time to try anything else on my break, so what should I try next? I am kinda at a loss :-\ Thanks!

Ok, so now I have yet another problem. It's not leaking anymore, but it's getting hotter than it has in the past. It's getting up to the halfway mark, but not any higher, but that's hotter than it's ever run before, and that was before I fixed my coolant system Before I replaced my heater core, the temp would sit about an 1/8 to a little more than 1/4 of the way up the gauge, not halfway. So I am thinking that this is most likely an air bubble? If it's not an air bubble, anyone got any other ideas on what it might be? Also what's the easy way to bleed the system if it is an air bubble? I have never had to bleed a coolant system before... Thanks all! Edit: Link I found to bleeding the system: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=45849&highlight=bleed+cooling Is this the easiest way to do it?

I guess a size check on this new alt would be in order as well, before I go jumping to conclusions on this too... Splinter: Could you measure the size of the case so that I could compare it to mine and see what the differences are? Thanks for the help GD. I will have to research this some more and find out an answer for us turbo owners :-\ Gotta love that turbo!

That doesn't bode well for me then :-\ I have the alt in between the PS and the AC compressor. What are my options then? Am I screwed :-\

Pretty sure they are the same car, just with a different name. I don't really know with an RS, but I think it's just a rebranded RX. Have fun!

I guess I should ask this, but I think I know the answer, I just want to verify… Will this work in an EA82? I see splinter has a brat, but from what I have read from GD, the brat's just use an ea82 alt nowadays, so this should work on an ea82, but I just wanted to make sure Thanks!

After tightening all my hose clamps again, my leak went away. I think it was coming from the turbo outlet cooling hose, because that one had a few turns left in it I checked and tightened those earlier too. Oh well. I have new hose clamps that I am going to put on there, but as of now I am not leaking any more antifreeze! Glad that it was something simple. I am going to replace all my hoses but not until next weekend. I am just glad that I am not leaking anymore, what a relief! Thanks all for the help!

The loyale is the GL rebranded. GL-10 was a trim line with all the options (intermittent windshield wipers, rear cargo light and cover, things like that), turbo was optional. Turbo was optional on the loyale as well. They also offered the 4EAT from 1987.5 to 1990, mostly, if not only, in the turbo models, then subaru put the 4EAT into the legacy and removed it from the loyale line and stuck the loyale with the 3at after 1990 as well as removing the turbo option I believe. You can get the stuff off a loyale and swap it into a GL10, and you can take the GL10 stuff and swap it onto a loyale. They are the same car. I have added all the GL10 options that are cool to my loyale. It's easy to do and cheap as well. Hope that helps!

That's cool. Would you be willing to sell just the case? I wouldn't mind having the case around, and then when the time comes, just go buy the internals, or a whole new alternator for that matter, and put it into the new case.

Sweet, that's what I thought. I think I am going to head to the parts store here shortly so I will find out soon if I have bigger problems or not.

I just wanted to point out that I am not interested at this exact moment, but I am interested in this for an option when I do need an alt. So dont' hurry on my behalf! I wish I had the money for this now, but I got to many things in the pipe line to be able to do it now I would say though that if you were to make a couple of them, I am sure that someone would by them from you for sure! I know that if my alt craps out soon, I will be contacting you for my replacement. How many of these do you have access to?

I am not saying I am running anything that would take more than that, but I could see myself running serveral sets of 100 watt off road lights, along with a decent stereo w/subs and such, and a winch, so I could POSSIBLY need more than that at any given time. I don't think I ever would, but I might. I personally like to keep my options open, and being able to upgrade if I want to by just buying "off the shelf" parts and stuffing them into my alt is an awesome option. I would take this over the nissan just because of that. I believe GD charges about $100 for an alt that is ready to go, but you would have to check with him to make sure about that. Is the three plug an option with these? That would be my only hold back on going this route is not having a three plug option. I would think it would be straight forward to make a three plug fit, but IDK..

I was never too thrilled about the STI hatchback, until I saw it with Mat Trax on it But now this, this is what I am talking about! They took the look of the new legacy and carried that over to the sti sedan. I like the sedan alot. If I were to buy this car, this would NOT be my winter beater, that's for sure! Ya I might run it in the winter sometimes but not for a DD, that's what a $500 GL is for, not the $30,000 STI I also don't think the market for the STI is aimed at off road/snow performance either (rally excluded). It's street performance. I would be PISSED if I spent 30 g's on a performance street car and I didn't get 18" rims and lo pro tires! Not to mention it would look stupid with smaller rims and tires and you would also lose performance as well. 18" are still a fairly robust rim, unlike 20". There isn't enough material for the rim to really stand up to any kind of beating, intentional or not on a 20" rim. 18" are a good compromise IMHO. 17" are just so yesterday, I mean C'MON!

Ok, so I am trying to figure this out and nail down why one would want to go this route compared to the nissan route. From what you have said, if I were to purchase this alternator from you, all it is is a delco alternator stuffed into a "special" case. So if it fails, I could just "swap" parts from an appropriate delco alternator without to much hassle? So basically I would be just buying the special case from you already stuffed with new alternator goodies. Am I correct on this? Also could you use the three wire setup that is already in the car for this? I really don't want to modify the wiring in my car that much, so if I could use the exsisting wiring, that would be ideal. I have been toying with the idea of replacing my alt with a bigger one, so this might be a good way to go since the delco stuff will always be available, and for most likely cheap as well. Could you stuff bigger internals into it as well? Say I go with the 90amp and then find out later I need 120amps, could I stuff 120amp parts into the housing with little effort, or is that out of the question? I like the idea of being able to use readily available parts to repair your own alt, without having to actually go buy a whole new alt. This would also be sweet if you could "upgrade" your amps if you need to. I would go this route for sure if I could "upgrade" the amps in the future if needed.

Sounds like something came loose/broke, so I will repeat what everyone else has said, check all your connections, and your grounds. Clean off all the ground connections you can as well. Corrosion is a PITA!

88 EA82T: What did you use to replace those two lines? It looks like just generic 1/4 inch and 1/2 inch coolant line should work. Just cut to fit. Doesn't look like there is anything special about it. I think I am going to replace those tomorrow morning just to see what happens. I will grab some new hose clamps as well, so that will narrow down my leak, if I still have it after replacing those hoses.

Ok cool, I was just confused, since all that info wasn't posted. Thanks for clearing it up. No hard feelings! As for the windows... I don't know about all the supports and what not for the windows themselves, but the motors are small and fairly simple, at least when compared to my MR2. I would think that it SHOULD be fairly to swap them in. That and all the wiring should be there as well for the power window system. There isn't much room in the doors, so I think that's going to be your biggest issue is actually trying to install them. Sounds like fun, or something like that anyways. Good luck!

Then what's this all about? I am confused. You want to convert to power windows then? Then why did you thank him for the same thing I just said? I wouldn't have said anything otherwise That's why I thought you wanted power LOCKS. Windows don't need lock solenoids Please be more specific with you post title. Thanks

I see my threads were combined... I was really confused for a min. there. Anyways... I haven't really had any motivation to fix Mr. Roo, that and I put him in time out for pissing on everything :-\ Stupid car. Hopefully in the next few days I will care enough to do something about this leak I don't think the intake manifold is blown since the coolant is pooling up on top of the manifold, so I think it would be difficult for it to run upwards to pool on top of it's self. So that's good. I was just really afraid of something else being blown, but if blown hoses are all that can really go wrong, then I will start replacing hoses and hope for the best... I see that hose on the bottom of the turbo, what a PITA. It was already difficult to tighten the damn hose clamp on it, so replacing it should be fun :-\ I am not worried about the turbo cooling down, this turbo is oil AND water cooled. That's pretty rare for a turbo, and this is one small turbo as well. I highly doubt that I "cooked" my turbo, even if it wasn't getting water to it, the oil should be plenty to cool it. So I don't think the turbo it's self is to blame. Ya, I see those hoses you are talking about. I think that I will replace them since they seem easy to replace and they are right on top of the intake which is where the coolant is pooling, so it would make sense to replace them. It can't hurt it anyways. I have tried just revving the engine with it running with me standing outside the car, and I can't seem anything spraying anywhere obvious, so I will have to try something else to try to narrow down this leak if replacing those hoses doesn't work. Thanks for the tips! Anyone else got any ideas for me to try in the mean time?

You can pull all the parts you need from donor cars in the JY. All the wiring is already in the car for the power locks, you just need the locks themselves. Here's what I did to mine: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=105193 I installed a power door lock motor from the rear passenger side into the drivers door which made the system "independent" of the drivers door, and then added in remote start/keyless entry along with a switch on both front doors to lock and unlock the doors. It's all in the thread I posted. It's been a few months since then and I am still very happy with the results! You can of course just buy a package online with all the actuators, but it's a PAIN to install them. I have done it before that way as well. It would be way easier to grab all the locks off a donor car and install them, then modify the "stock" system like I did. Much better, cleaner, and easier IMHO.

I take it then that it's probably just the hoses? I have an 88 FSM that has my car and I looked at all those hoses and they don't seem to be leaking/bad (I have checked...), but I also am not very experienced with cars in general so ya, but I am trying to learn I guess I am afraid that a gasket blew, or something broke that is not a hose and something else is going on with it... That's my biggest fear. Do you have to remove the turbo to replace all the hoses? I am planning on replacing all the hoses, but am I just trying to figure out if there is something else that I should be worried about, that and funds are low so I don't have the $150 or so I will need for all the hoses, so I am trying to figure out what exactly is wrong so that the leak stops and I can drive it, and then I can replace all the hoses. Good idea to ask the dealer ship for a photo copy of the parts location. Thanks for that, I will do that for sure.

Ok, so I finally got the heater core replaced! It was good times to replace it :-\ Thanks for all the tips and the write ups! It took about 6 hours and that included sitting down for easter dinner So it wasn't that bad. Kinda of, I guess. Now I have another problem, more leaks now that the system is full :-\ Sad times...

Hello all, So here's the deal. The car is a 1990 Loyale T-Wagon. I have replaced my heater core to get rid of antifreeze leaking into my passenger compartment. So after serveral hours, I got the heater core out,replaced it, refilled the system, and now I have more leaks, but at least not on the inside of the car The first one I found was on the turbo cooling outlet. The hose clamp was loose, so I tightened it up and solved that leak, but I still have another leak that I cannot find. It's coming from the turbo side of the motor, but I can't see any leak at all. I have tightened up all the cooling hose clamps that I could find, but I still have a leak. The antifreeze seems to be pooling up on top of the engine, and then trickling down and leaking out the bottom, and seems to only leak when under boost? Seems weird, but driving it around really nicely, it doesn't seen to leak anything. But when I get on it, it starts to leak :-\ I have been driving this car around since September and for the last 10,000 miles, I have not had a problem. The only time this leak came up was after I fixed my heater core, and filled the system, it's started to leak. I was afraid of this. Since the system has never been fully pressurized, I was afraid something else might come up :-\ So what should I look at? I am completely stumped on this one. I have tried to narrow this down over that last two days, so any help would be great! I just hope that it's nothing serious. I am trying to get my car ready to go over the mountains this weekend, but as of now I don't trust it to get me over the mountains. HELP!!! Thanks in advance!

Good to hear you fixed it! Luckily all it cost you was time as well. Glad it worked out for you!

I have never done this but logic would say that burning a different type of fuel would give you different reading out your tail pipe since you are burning a different fuel. My guess is that the alcohol burning emits the correct HC readings to fool the machine into thinking it's running correctly, when in fact it's just burning different fuel. Retarding the timing probably makes it burn a tad less fuel? making it pass or something... Just a guess on this, but it makes sense to run a different fuel to fool the computer at least. I can see that helping for sure. Good trick to know just in case. Luckily I don't have to worry about emissions, but in case I ever do, good trick!