eulogious

I am not saying I am running anything that would take more than that, but I could see myself running serveral sets of 100 watt off road lights, along with a decent stereo w/subs and such, and a winch, so I could POSSIBLY need more than that at any given time. I don't think I ever would, but I might. I personally like to keep my options open, and being able to upgrade if I want to by just buying "off the shelf" parts and stuffing them into my alt is an awesome option. I would take this over the nissan just because of that. I believe GD charges about $100 for an alt that is ready to go, but you would have to check with him to make sure about that. Is the three plug an option with these? That would be my only hold back on going this route is not having a three plug option. I would think it would be straight forward to make a three plug fit, but IDK..

I was never too thrilled about the STI hatchback, until I saw it with Mat Trax on it But now this, this is what I am talking about! They took the look of the new legacy and carried that over to the sti sedan. I like the sedan alot. If I were to buy this car, this would NOT be my winter beater, that's for sure! Ya I might run it in the winter sometimes but not for a DD, that's what a $500 GL is for, not the $30,000 STI I also don't think the market for the STI is aimed at off road/snow performance either (rally excluded). It's street performance. I would be PISSED if I spent 30 g's on a performance street car and I didn't get 18" rims and lo pro tires! Not to mention it would look stupid with smaller rims and tires and you would also lose performance as well. 18" are still a fairly robust rim, unlike 20". There isn't enough material for the rim to really stand up to any kind of beating, intentional or not on a 20" rim. 18" are a good compromise IMHO. 17" are just so yesterday, I mean C'MON!

Ok, so I am trying to figure this out and nail down why one would want to go this route compared to the nissan route. From what you have said, if I were to purchase this alternator from you, all it is is a delco alternator stuffed into a "special" case. So if it fails, I could just "swap" parts from an appropriate delco alternator without to much hassle? So basically I would be just buying the special case from you already stuffed with new alternator goodies. Am I correct on this? Also could you use the three wire setup that is already in the car for this? I really don't want to modify the wiring in my car that much, so if I could use the exsisting wiring, that would be ideal. I have been toying with the idea of replacing my alt with a bigger one, so this might be a good way to go since the delco stuff will always be available, and for most likely cheap as well. Could you stuff bigger internals into it as well? Say I go with the 90amp and then find out later I need 120amps, could I stuff 120amp parts into the housing with little effort, or is that out of the question? I like the idea of being able to use readily available parts to repair your own alt, without having to actually go buy a whole new alt. This would also be sweet if you could "upgrade" your amps if you need to. I would go this route for sure if I could "upgrade" the amps in the future if needed.

Sounds like something came loose/broke, so I will repeat what everyone else has said, check all your connections, and your grounds. Clean off all the ground connections you can as well. Corrosion is a PITA!

88 EA82T: What did you use to replace those two lines? It looks like just generic 1/4 inch and 1/2 inch coolant line should work. Just cut to fit. Doesn't look like there is anything special about it. I think I am going to replace those tomorrow morning just to see what happens. I will grab some new hose clamps as well, so that will narrow down my leak, if I still have it after replacing those hoses.

Ok cool, I was just confused, since all that info wasn't posted. Thanks for clearing it up. No hard feelings! As for the windows... I don't know about all the supports and what not for the windows themselves, but the motors are small and fairly simple, at least when compared to my MR2. I would think that it SHOULD be fairly to swap them in. That and all the wiring should be there as well for the power window system. There isn't much room in the doors, so I think that's going to be your biggest issue is actually trying to install them. Sounds like fun, or something like that anyways. Good luck!

Then what's this all about? I am confused. You want to convert to power windows then? Then why did you thank him for the same thing I just said? I wouldn't have said anything otherwise That's why I thought you wanted power LOCKS. Windows don't need lock solenoids Please be more specific with you post title. Thanks

I see my threads were combined... I was really confused for a min. there. Anyways... I haven't really had any motivation to fix Mr. Roo, that and I put him in time out for pissing on everything :-\ Stupid car. Hopefully in the next few days I will care enough to do something about this leak I don't think the intake manifold is blown since the coolant is pooling up on top of the manifold, so I think it would be difficult for it to run upwards to pool on top of it's self. So that's good. I was just really afraid of something else being blown, but if blown hoses are all that can really go wrong, then I will start replacing hoses and hope for the best... I see that hose on the bottom of the turbo, what a PITA. It was already difficult to tighten the damn hose clamp on it, so replacing it should be fun :-\ I am not worried about the turbo cooling down, this turbo is oil AND water cooled. That's pretty rare for a turbo, and this is one small turbo as well. I highly doubt that I "cooked" my turbo, even if it wasn't getting water to it, the oil should be plenty to cool it. So I don't think the turbo it's self is to blame. Ya, I see those hoses you are talking about. I think that I will replace them since they seem easy to replace and they are right on top of the intake which is where the coolant is pooling, so it would make sense to replace them. It can't hurt it anyways. I have tried just revving the engine with it running with me standing outside the car, and I can't seem anything spraying anywhere obvious, so I will have to try something else to try to narrow down this leak if replacing those hoses doesn't work. Thanks for the tips! Anyone else got any ideas for me to try in the mean time?

You can pull all the parts you need from donor cars in the JY. All the wiring is already in the car for the power locks, you just need the locks themselves. Here's what I did to mine: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=105193 I installed a power door lock motor from the rear passenger side into the drivers door which made the system "independent" of the drivers door, and then added in remote start/keyless entry along with a switch on both front doors to lock and unlock the doors. It's all in the thread I posted. It's been a few months since then and I am still very happy with the results! You can of course just buy a package online with all the actuators, but it's a PAIN to install them. I have done it before that way as well. It would be way easier to grab all the locks off a donor car and install them, then modify the "stock" system like I did. Much better, cleaner, and easier IMHO.

I take it then that it's probably just the hoses? I have an 88 FSM that has my car and I looked at all those hoses and they don't seem to be leaking/bad (I have checked...), but I also am not very experienced with cars in general so ya, but I am trying to learn I guess I am afraid that a gasket blew, or something broke that is not a hose and something else is going on with it... That's my biggest fear. Do you have to remove the turbo to replace all the hoses? I am planning on replacing all the hoses, but am I just trying to figure out if there is something else that I should be worried about, that and funds are low so I don't have the $150 or so I will need for all the hoses, so I am trying to figure out what exactly is wrong so that the leak stops and I can drive it, and then I can replace all the hoses. Good idea to ask the dealer ship for a photo copy of the parts location. Thanks for that, I will do that for sure.

Ok, so I finally got the heater core replaced! It was good times to replace it :-\ Thanks for all the tips and the write ups! It took about 6 hours and that included sitting down for easter dinner So it wasn't that bad. Kinda of, I guess. Now I have another problem, more leaks now that the system is full :-\ Sad times...

Hello all, So here's the deal. The car is a 1990 Loyale T-Wagon. I have replaced my heater core to get rid of antifreeze leaking into my passenger compartment. So after serveral hours, I got the heater core out,replaced it, refilled the system, and now I have more leaks, but at least not on the inside of the car The first one I found was on the turbo cooling outlet. The hose clamp was loose, so I tightened it up and solved that leak, but I still have another leak that I cannot find. It's coming from the turbo side of the motor, but I can't see any leak at all. I have tightened up all the cooling hose clamps that I could find, but I still have a leak. The antifreeze seems to be pooling up on top of the engine, and then trickling down and leaking out the bottom, and seems to only leak when under boost? Seems weird, but driving it around really nicely, it doesn't seen to leak anything. But when I get on it, it starts to leak :-\ I have been driving this car around since September and for the last 10,000 miles, I have not had a problem. The only time this leak came up was after I fixed my heater core, and filled the system, it's started to leak. I was afraid of this. Since the system has never been fully pressurized, I was afraid something else might come up :-\ So what should I look at? I am completely stumped on this one. I have tried to narrow this down over that last two days, so any help would be great! I just hope that it's nothing serious. I am trying to get my car ready to go over the mountains this weekend, but as of now I don't trust it to get me over the mountains. HELP!!! Thanks in advance!

Good to hear you fixed it! Luckily all it cost you was time as well. Glad it worked out for you!

I have never done this but logic would say that burning a different type of fuel would give you different reading out your tail pipe since you are burning a different fuel. My guess is that the alcohol burning emits the correct HC readings to fool the machine into thinking it's running correctly, when in fact it's just burning different fuel. Retarding the timing probably makes it burn a tad less fuel? making it pass or something... Just a guess on this, but it makes sense to run a different fuel to fool the computer at least. I can see that helping for sure. Good trick to know just in case. Luckily I don't have to worry about emissions, but in case I ever do, good trick!

I PM'ed ya... I think it might be the AAV, do the AAV test by pinching the hose coming from the AAV...

Ok, so I got the switch fixed for the most part, and I installed the DCCD knob and it works! Granted the switch is a total hack job, and the second position I couldn't get to work, but I got FWD, Normal, 150%, 200%, and 4WD. I should have a 75% after FWD, but like I said I couldn't get that to work and I really don't care at the moment about that. I took it for a test drive and I tell you what, the AWD upgrade makes a HUGE difference. I couldn't really ever tell before, but driving around in a little bit of rain in FWD, the tires were spinning like mad! Flip the switch to "normal" and there is virtually NO slippage what so ever. It's AWESOME! The 4WD switch works as well, since I get torque bind in the corners with it on , so I know that I am in 4WD. Here's some pics for ya: Here's my super small switch: Each number that you see is supposed to be a pin :-\ This is zoomed in as well. I am not proud of this solder job at all, but considering I had hardly any pins to work with, I am actually proud I got it to work. The only reason being it's soooo small. Here's a size comparison to a lighter: Here's another shot, the piece of wire with solder on it is 20 AWG: Here's some photo's of my diode board that I made since I couldn't solder a diode in between each pole of the switch due to it's size: I then proceeded to incase the whole thing in hot glue to protect it from shorting and the elements: Here's the whole setup: So I am not happy with how the switch actually turned out, so I am going to order a new one and learn from my mistakes on this one and get all of the positions working like they should. I also found out that my mounting whole for the switch in my dash is about a 1/8 in to high, so the reason why the pins are breaking is because the switch is pushed up an 1/8 of an inch, therefore breaking some of the pins So I am going to fix this as well when I install my new switch. But for the time being it works the way it should, and it's pretty sweet Now the only thing that I have left to do is figure out why the tcuscan software wasn't working for me. So far so good, only one thing left to go!

Ok, so I figured I would update this thread finally after fixing the problem. It was the AAV. How I tested it was pinching the hose coming from the AAV and going to the manifold I believe. I could be wrong on where the tube goes, but if I remember correctly there is only one tube coming from the AAV, so you can't really miss it. I took a pair of pliers and pinched that hose and the idle dropped, so I knew it was the AAV. I then found one from Turbone (thanks!), installed it and it has been fine ever since! It's great not having a car idle at 1800 RPM

That's lame, I should have expected that though. It probably cost a couple grand more too I suppose *sigh*

Dude, badass! I have always like the mini's because they were quirky, but that's looks sweet. Lifted and 4wd in a mini? That's a sweet combo. Almost like a justy on crack

My clock was the same way. All I did was reheat the old solder in a few place, and add a little to some others. Think it was maybe 8 solder spots total. Took about 3 tries to get all the connections solder better and about 15 min total, but it fixed it right up. If I was closer I would do it for you. It's super simple. You really don't even need any soldering skills. I just picked up a 15watt radio shack soldering iron for about $8, and some solder for about $2 and went to town on the clock. What's the worst that can happen, you break a clock that's already borken? I would give it a try, you might be surprised on what you can accomplish. Soldering isn't that hard to do, and it's a good thing to know, especially when working on these older cars. My 2 cents.

An update. I ran into some troubles today with making my dccd knob. My six position rotatory switch is apparently a 9 position rotatory switch now. I don't know how that happened, but from when I had it on the bench testing it and turning the knob, there was only six positions, but when I got it into my car, what I thought was pin 1 was really pin 3 apparently and it had 9 positions instead of the six it had on the bench. Must of have needed more torque on bench when turning the knob I don't know why they even labeled the switch if pin 1 isn't the 1st position of the switch :-\ So I have to redo my switch, which doesn't sound like a big deal, except for these pins are so small, and I clipped the ones I thought I wouldn't need. Like pins 7 through 10, since it's supposed to only be a six position switch. Also in the process, I also broke 2 pins off, so now I have to redo the switch with half the pins to solder too Now I would go buy a new switch, but I have to special order it and it's $26 :mad: So I am really pissed. I think that I might be able to fix it, but it's going to be a challenge. I will take photos of how small this switch is, it's ridiculously small. It's great because I have a perfect spot for it and if it was bigger it wouldn't mount up easily, but seriously what a PITA. I honestly don't know if I will get this done anytime soon, since I am pissed at it and really don't care to fix it right now. Stupid switch. Hopefully soon I will have the dccd knob in.

There's an idea, but from what I have seen and used of bluetooth, it's not very friendly and it's SLOW and doesn't like interference. Granted if I could find something cheap that could transmit the two signals, I would be interested in trying it... Something I will keep on the back burner, thanks for the idea!

Thanks Well I thought about that and the problem that I will run into is getting the wires for the steering wheel to the steering column. I could remove my cruise controls that I just installed, but i don't really want to do that since I use my cruise everyday, I want to keep them around. If you have any idea on how to do that, I would totally do that. In fact I would probably steal some actual paddles from a car somewhere and get them in there, but I just can't run anymore wires I wish though... I still have some ideas about building a different assembly, but I want to try this out first and see how I like it.

I added paddle shifters to my 4EAT Here's my build thread: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?p=914048#post914048 It's alot more fun to drive now!

Ok got the paddle shifters mounted, wired in, and working It's really sweet and they work great! I have a couple design flaws to work out, but they will work for now. Here's some pics: The thing that I didn't count on or think about when using these toggles switches was that they will rotate So right now they paddles rotate, and that's annoying, but I think I will just weld a guide plate above my coupler to keep it from rotating too much. They also look a little out of place/ghetto, but hey, who else do you know has paddle shifters! I choose this way as well because it super easy to swap out any parts that get broken, and the whole setup is super simple, so less to go wrong. I will try these out for a few days and see how they work, but so far they work well, and man the paddle shifters are alot of fun! Makes the auto not so bad anymore Now onto my DCCD knob, but I don't know when I will get around to that. Hopfully I will have some time today/this afternoon to start working on it, but we shall see. Now off to test drive the paddle shifters some more