eulogious

That's what a lot of people have said, and for a little more money, they seem WAY better than the reman crap you get at the local parts store, so we shall see. Good to know there are still some places that offer good cust service as well as prices Hopefully I will be able to source them locally...

Sweet, they even have the turbo axles $85 for the 25 spline, but that seems to be the rate. Free shipping is sweet as well. I take it you had good luck with them? Thanks for the link! I might be going there if I can't find a local shop to get them from...

So I am newer to the Olympia area and was wondering if anyone new where I could buy EMPI axles from? I have no idea what shops are in the area, I was looking for after market vw shops and came up with nothing, and google really didn't help me out much. Hell, if there was a shop in Seattle that was open on Saturdays with good prices I would just pick them up in Seattle since I am up there just about every weekend. But I don't know any shops here (Olympia) or up in Seattle for that matter, so if anyone knows of a good shop to purchase EMPI stuff from (axles specifically), please let me know! Thanks all! PS. I know I could order them online, but I don't want to pay for shipping. Also if there is a local business that sells them I would rather buy from them, then some internet store on the ease coast...

Glad to see it was a simple fix and you got it going!

The vacuum controls the movement of the vents, ie the switching between defrost and vent. I really don't know how you would bypass it to always have it on defrost, since it's all control by vacuum. I guess you could take a part your dash, find the vent levers, detach them so they aren't control by vacuum anymore and just permanently fix them in the position that you want, using a screw or something. I really don't know, I have not take the dash apart, but that is one way to solve your problem for sure.

The first thing I would look at is all the vac lines for a potential leak. It seems that the hvac isn't connected up the the reserve tank, and is somehow only getting it's vacuum off the engine, and that's why it changes, or the vac tanks doesn't hold vacuum and is just useless as the only vacuum that the HVAC system sees is that produced by the engine. Maybe there is a check valve, one that allows vacuum in but not out, that needs replacing or that is not exsistant, ie wasn't put back in after the weber conversion... I don't have my FSM on me so I can't verify that. Have you tried checking the reserve tank to see if it actually hold vacuum? Just pull the vac hose off of it and it should make a noise as air fills the reserve. When I took one off a junk yard car, it still made noise! Who knows how long it's been there, but it still had vacuum in it, so needless to say they should hold vacuum for a LONG time. If it's not holding vacuum, then I would check to see why that is. Since you replace the reserve tank already, I would say either a vacuum leak, or a bad check valve, or a bad tank if the tank doesn't hold vacuum. Other than those things, maybe the actual heater control (the buttons the choose which vents) could be bad and have a leak. It's a simple system, so there can only be a few things that can go wrong. But I would lean towards some sort of check valve/reserve tank problem...

+1

I wish I could go, but I don't have a D/R and I know walker is pretty hardcore. Maybe one of these days I will be able to go to a meet :-\ Oh, well, have fun everyone!

Look up the coefficient of a barn in a wind storm, and I think they are about the same On a serious note, the first thing that I would do is tidy up the underside of the car. Make the exhaust closer to the body, add some sheet metal to smoothen the underside out to try to make it better, that sort of thing. I don't really see what you can do with the rest of it, it's seriously a shoe box with wheels, so it's going to be hard to make it have less drag. Sounds like a good idea and I would love to see a wagon getting 40 mpg. That would be sweet. Until then my shoe box and I will rock the 25 mpg Keep us updated on your progress with this, sounds like a fun project!

Thanks for all the info, and the link, some good info in there It looks like this is all doable, so think I am going to go for it and see what happens. At least I will have the trans on hand when mine takes a dump on me, so that's good. Thanks everyone for the info and the help!

I believe most subarus are 4x140, not 4x110, but I could be wrong since I don't have a hatch, but I know my ea82 is 4x140, not 4x110. Just thought I would throw that out there...

Hello all, So I have had a little more time to go through what everyone posted and here's what I have come up with on what I would need to do to swap this impreza trans into my loyale. 1. Drill a few holes in my rear cross member for the new trans to fit up correctly. 2. Swap the impreza diff into my orignal loyale bell housing and use my loyale bell housing on the EJ case. 3. Reset my backlash for the diff after doing #2. 4. Find a rear 4.11 diff out of a early Legacy (90-94 5spd, 90-91 4EAT) for the correct stubs and what not to use in my loyale (ea82). 5. If I can't source #4, then swap diff using the EJ case and pinion, then mount the 4.11 ring onto the EA diff chunk and install it into the EJ case and use my EA rear diff cover marking it 4.11 accordingly. 6. Use the stock speedo cable and screw it into the EJ case. 7. Make a swappable harness so that I can use my original TCM with my ea82t ECM and my new EJ trans. Make it swappable so that when I do my EJ swap, it's not a pain to wire in the new TCM. What about the drive shaft? Will my EA drive shaft work, or will I have to get one made or pull off another car? Also, what about my half shafts? Can I use my turbo half shafts since they have the 25 splines already, but are they the correct length and such? Obviously the rear half shaft should be fine since I am just using the orignal ea ones, just a new diff with lower gears. I think that about does it with my questions. Please feel free to comment on my steps as well. Any input is appreciated. I am pretty sure I am going to do this, it's just good to know what needs to be done before I spend money, thanks all!

I just wanted to add, thanks grossgary, that's exactly what I was looking for, options and opinions on the idea, if it was possible, and was it worth my time. I don't want someone getting "butt hurt" over the ideas in this thread or a sale... I was thinking about this before this particular sale came around, so it was already on the for front of my mind, this sale just made me actually ask about it Turbone mentioned the same thing (about using a legacy trans) to me when I stopped by his place yesterday as well (Thanks for the AAV Turbone!). I am asking if this is doable because I am thinking I am going to go this route, whether it is with the impreza trans or another trans (legacy or impreza), so it's good to hear the plus side and the negative side. So far it's looking good! Thanks all! Keep'em coming...

I want to say thanks for all the good info! I am a little short on time, and thought I would at least chime in real quick... There's a couple reason why I would like to go this route... One would be the 4.11 gearing. I want to lift my car and put on bigger tires, so have the lower gearing is great for that. I also realize that there are legacy trans everywhere, but they haven't been rebuilt already. For a little more money, I would reather buy a rebuilt one and store it until mine breaks. I have no plans on doing anything to my car until it breaks. It would just be nice to have the parts laying around to fix it, instead of having to source parts and then fix it. This is my DD, so I would like to be able to fix it ASAP when stuff breaks. I also don't mind storing stuff either... My garage already stores my motorcycle, MR2 (my project car) and most some of my belongings as well, it's not really a "garage". So storing a trans isn't really a big deal. When I have more time I will respond a with some more details, but for now thanks for the good info. Looks like it's doable, and I will have some time to source the other parts I need for this. I am also not planning on doing an EJ swap anytime soon. My ea82t runs great so far, and until it breaks for good, I can't justify the EJ swap. That's the main reason I don't want to do the EJ swap right now, or else I would. I would also like to take the time like grossgary said and completely redo the engine and put the money into it to do it right, and that requires time and money, of which both I really have very little of. That's why I want to do this in "phases". My donor car is another story, but it's not going anywhere anytime soon, so I am not worrying about it anytime soon. I like the idea of a of a conversion harness plug set. I am not afraid of a soldering iron, so I will go that route for sure. Thanks for that idea gloyale... That's all for now...

The diff's a 4.11 and included w/ the trans Thanks for the info. It seems that everything is swappable that doesn't just fit right up. Please keep the info comin'!

I believe I read the thread that you are talking about in my searching... And I was hoping that was the case. Pretty simple I beleive, but I have yet to do it so I have no idea. Anybody else confirm this by any chance? I realize that at the end of the day this is NOT a bolt on swap, there will be stuff that I have to figure out and probably won't work right at first, but I am up to the challenge. Like I said, I just don't want to go throwing money around at some idea that will not work at all, but it sounds like this might be a good plan for me to stick with. Another benefit of this swap is that I will have a newer trans in it so it will be easier to work on, and more reliable as well. So far it seems like it's possible... Any more input would be greatly appreciated before I make a move! Thanks!

I will to get under a wrx or an impreza and check out the mounting, thanks for that idea. My biggest concern is not wasting money. If parts can be swapped, or this seems somewhat doable to do the swap, then I am game. I just don't want to throw money that I really don't have at something that is going to do me no good and cause me more pain than help me out.

I have searched, and I have come up with nothing relating to this. What I want to do is purchase a rebuilt 4EAT that was out of an '93 impreza and keep it around in my garage until my 4EAT in my loyale goes out, and then swap in the rebuilt transmission. From what I have heard, everything is the same about the 4EAT until about '97 except for the bell housing on the transmission. If this is the case, then I can just swap the bell housing and diff, and then it should just bolt up to mine? Will I have to modify the drive shaft? What about the TCM and the wiring for it? It seems like it should be straight forward to do and just plug right in, but I don't know. Can I use the old TCM instead of the new one, or should I upgrade the TCM at the same time as the swap? Also can one swap the transfer clutches on these to transmissions? What about the other parts? Are they interchangeable? The reason I am asking this, is right now my 4EAT is working great, but I can get this rebuilt one for cheap now, and I would like to have a backup around in-case mine fails, which it will at some point. The other option I am considering is getting a donor lego (I have one in mind, just no money, time or storage for it right now) and doing an ej swap. Would it just be easier to swap the whole drive terrain to ej stuff, or do it in phases ie. when the transmission goes out replace it, and then when the motor goes out replace it, or just go for the gold and do it all at once? What's people's opinion on this? Oh, and I WANT the 4EAT, not a 5spd, so don't mention a 5spd d/r swap, this is my DD and I like the auto for my DD Thanks for all the help!

And you have listed all the benefits of an ea82 :-\ But at least it's a time saving and money saving benefit, but it's still about the only benefit. Gotta lov'em

You sure about this? I don't have them, 1990 Loyale Turbo. I have the manual seatbelts. I don't think I would have bought it if it had auto seatbelts I's gots a 1990 Loyale Turbo I believe 1990 was the year they changed the name to Loyale, it was also the same year Subaru introduced the Legacy IIRC...

As for the tach issue, I would check your grounds and clean them off if you haven't already. Aside from that I honestly don't know. That's for sure a brain tickler...

You should check out his build thread... I think you will then understand It's pretty sweet I must say

You should check out youtube and search for miles fox. He has a video series for changing the timing belt. It's a short video and shows what needs to be done. I would check those out and see if you have missed anything according to the videos... Just a thought. Oh, and a shameless plug for Miles Fox's videos too. They are fantastic I found the link for the timing belt video http://www.youtube.com/user/MilesFox#p/u/14/ZG1p70E4VXc Good luck!

Ok, I am now giving an update on this and reviving it since I have a new problem and didn't want to give all the background already given here... I unfortunately didn't get the vac pump that I wanted, but I did come across a unit locally Now it wasn't just a bolt in procedure to get it to work, since I found a factory installed system, and I have a dealer installed system. I had to take the unit apart and remove all the cruise stuff on the vac pump unit, and then once that was done I was left with a vac pump, vac tank, and a pressure sensor for the vac pump plumbed into the vac tank. I then connected that to a relay and set it up to turn on when the system turns on, and viola! My cruise control works as it should And it was easier to do than I thought it would be I will post pics once I get them onto my computer... But now I have another problem... Since I got it all working, I want to add the cruise control buttons onto the steering wheel. so I got the controls, and I installed them onto my wheel, but when I went to plug them into my steering wheel, I realize that I only have one male connector (for the horn) when the other car the controls came off of had 3 male connectors (1 for the horn, 2 for the cruise controls). So my question is this, how can I get just the ring that has the 3 connectors on it so I can run the wires from the wheel to the steering column? I am guessing it is a ring but I really don't know... It could be connected to the steering wheel as well, which would mean I would have to replace the whole wheel, and that sucks I unfortunately do not have a steering wheel puller handy so I can't just take mine off and take a look, so any insight into this would be super helpful, or ideas to run the two wires from the wheel to the steering column. My FSM doesn't really show any helpful info either. From what I gather from my FSM is, it's part of the wheel, but I am hoping I am wrong and reading the FSM wrong. Thanks for the help, again!

Is that a ground effects kit I see on it? That looks sick, good work!