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CEL lit after a couple hours today as expected. The ONLY code I am getting now (so far) is P1500. This pleases me..... So I need to address the cooling fan relay issue. I know there have been some diagrams posted on how to wire one in etc. Is there already a relay to the EA cooling fan that I can just unhook the signal wire from the thermo switch and hook up the EJ ECU signal wire? I'm sure there must be something that easy. It would hopefully shut my CEL up for good.... THANK YOU.....

OK! My own incompetence as a mechanic is the cause of some of my issue...... So I was chasing down neutral switch wiring, and I decided the intake was in my way, so I removed it. While testing and generally looking for the problem I noticed that after cleaning the IAC, I FORGOT TO HOOKUP THE VACUUM LINE TO THE MAP..... Dammit.... So that explains the erratic idle and most likely the misfire too. I am back to a smooth idle, and we will see how long before the CEL comes on again. HOPEFULLY it will only be the P1500 code this time. THANK YOU USMB, I will update as I learn... Spencer

P0302, P0304..... I don't understand. Misfire on cyl 2 and 4??? I am thoroughly confused at this point.....

Ok. So the CEL lit the second the car moved. It idled/revved/ran without issue for nearly an hour. The second I put it in gear and moved, lit up. So I'm thinkin there is somethin happening withe the vss/neutral switch etc. I will have the code read and report back. The engine breathing leads me to believe the neutral switch is probly not hooked up correctly which is why it's searching for idle. I dunno.

Maybe? Also could this be giving the lopey idle?

Ok. Cleaned the IAC. Found a huge split in the large main hose coming from the crankcase for the PCV. Fixed that. Put it all back together and fired it up. Started fine, so far no codes. I will update after today's journeys. I expect the P1500 at some point. I will fix that when everything else is dealt with. The idle is not smooth either. It is breathing a few hundred rpm pretty contistantly. Sounds like it has a lopey cam idle. Possibly from the light FW? I dunno, it has an ACT Streetlight FW in there. I think it weighs between 10-12lbs as opposed to the stock one which is in the 30lb ballpark if I remember.

OK.... So I corrected the start circuit, and grounded pin 50. There was NOT a wire for pin 50 in the plug, so I added one. I took pictures of the location if for some reason there should've already been a wire there. After about 10 min of driving the CEL came on. Also, the engine died When rolling in nuetral on a freeway offramp, I didn't realize it until I was at the stoplight. Had the codes read, it was the same P1500 for the cooling fan relay, and P0505 IAC malfunction. Those were the ONLY codes thrown, so I am optimistic about the AT/MT issue. Also, I've never gotten the IAC code before. I am thinking, disassemble/clean the IAC, reassemble, and see what happens. I'm pretty confident there are no vacuum leaks etc. Suggestions?

That'd be great. I should be able to get a lil time under the dash to figure this out on Sat..... I found some info on SLI that maybe helpful, It shows pin 81 still being the MT/AT identifier (I think), but shows it in a different location. Maybe someone with a lil better understanding can help sort this out..... http://www.sl-i.net/FORUM/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=20667

I don't remember offhand what the color was, I will check in the next day or so and get that info while I undo what I did the other day when I grounded it. One thing to note, about 10" from the ECU the wire (pin 81) was factory crimped to a larger gauge wire with the same color combo. I want to say it was an orange/yellow combo but I'm not 100% on that. I will look tomorrow... Thank you for the help it is very appreciated.... Spencer

There is a way around the EGR with the proper manifold and some creative plumbing according to the link in the thread I have in the wanted forum. And yeah, there IS a pin in the ECU, I remember seeing it now that I think about it. So I am adding a wire there, and where am I running this wire to?

No EGR on the intake manifold, and the head isn't tapped for it either. I DO have an EGR manifold, but it has been cannibalized. Currently I am using the EA thermoswitch in the stock radiator. I will likely just wire in a dummy relay to satsify the ECU. How do I add a pin?! Sounds technical. It can't be as easy as sticking a piece of wire in the hole. I am assuming I would be opening the ECU case and soldering something, correct? I can do this, I just want to be guided accordingly.....

Yeah I'm aware of this. I actually thought is WAS a 1996, it was labeled a 96 in the p&p yard and in the door jam. Wasn't til the swap was done I learned it was actually a 1995 harness. Musta been on the cusp of the model changes I dunno. Regardless, this is where I am now. And I am going to deal with the issue. I Would put a different plug on the harness with the 96-99 pin arrangement, but I'm sure that would be a major project for me.

The codes are: P1500, P1702, & P0403.... If that is any help..... Also, on the plug going into the ECU, there are no wires going to pins 82-83, which according to the pinouts I've read should be vehicle speed sensor 2 (83), and neutral position switch (82).

Figured I'd start a new thread in an appropriate forum for this... The harness/ECU both came from the same car. 1995 Legacy, auto. They were stripped and installed by a VERY knowledgeable board member with plenty of experience, who is also VERY busy running his new business. I have the skills and abilities to handle this with the proper advice/direction. I am getting codes for no EGR signal, no communication with the TCU, and cooling fan relay failure. I believe I have grounded the correct pin (81). I can get pictures if necessary. I really would like to get the CEL to stay off, the car runs FANTASTIC, I have no issues with drivability. After I grounded the pin, the car starts hard when it is dead cold, like after sitting overnight, it never had this issue before. This may seem like a lot of little bits of info, it is kinda all bouncing around between my ears so I am trying to get it out in a somewhat organized manner. There is a little background in the wanted forum, that is where this started..... Please read: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/137382-wtb-1995-legacy-5mt-ecu/ And help! Thank you, Spencer

OK.... Installed the front locked diff.... Went wheeling... AWESOME! I've never had a truck that was as capable as this, I'm stoked about it.... Also, FYI, DNR is on the prowl in SWWA.... They handed out 12 tickets to our group on Saturday.... I will NOT be doing ANY off roading locally anymore... Gonna make TSF trips from here on out... Had a blast anyway..... Here's a few pics... They aren't super exciting but it shows some Toys in their natural habitat...

Well that will be nice and close! Hell yes man!!!

YES.........

^^^^ Every chance I get! ^^^^ This weekend I prepped the 4.37 thirds. Welded the spoob outta one and installed a lock right into the other. Then I installed the welded one into the rear. I will install the front one after work one eve this week... Gotta get done, this saturday is gonna be the maiden voyage for this thing. A few trucks are headed to the woods and I am determined to be there..... I am actually a lil surprised how effective the small jump from 4.10 to 4.37 is. It improved drivability more than I thought it would. I also sold the 15x10 wheels and picked up some 15x6 FJ60 stockers. Those 10" wheels were too damn wide for what I'm trying to do with this truck. When I'm all sorted out the plan is to run 33x10.50's on the 6" wheels and I'll put the trail tires on the 8"ers... Buddy of mine is gonna take them to work and have them blasted/powder coated....

Picked up some trail tires!! 36/12.5/15 They are definitely well used... BUT, they were less than $250, and with a good hotknife job should get me PLENTY of offroad miles.... I have a set of 5 15x10 steelies too, I think that will be the trail tires and I'll continue to run 33's on the street....... BOOM.....

These tires are 33's, I am going to run them til they're shot. Probly won't see anything bigger than 35's. I'm goin from the stock 4.10's to 4.37's. I know that's probly still a lil high for 33-35" tires, but it's what I have, they cost me nothing, and in low range I will be juuuuust fine.... Especially after I get the duals handled.... I'm hoping to get the gears installed this coming up saturday. I still need to weld the piss outta the rear diff and put the lock-right in the front diff.... All in all though I am pleased with how fast and how sturdy this build is coming along. Considering I started just exactly a month ago, only worked on the truck on the weekends, also worked 40 hrs/week, am a single parent, and one of the weekends was easter.... I am pleased with the progress for sure..... As far as hoops over the shock towers, I probly wont do that, but it has been suggested by a couple different people to gusset them, I may do that still. I tied them in to the factory upper bumpstops pretty good, I honestly doubt I will have any issues. I will end up gusseting them anyway I'm sure. I didn't balance the driveline, and I am not going to either. I built it as true as anyone possibly could I'm sure.... I guarantee you it is STRAIGHT, and I won't go fast enough for it to need an actual balance. I drove around in 4-hi with the hubs unlocked and it was pretty damn smooth.... Got up to around 30mph with no negative feedback.... I am comfortable with it.... Thanks for the compliments on the welds! By no means do I claim to be a professional, but I did learn to weld when I was 7.... And I've seen people who DO claim to be professionals and their welds look like spoob......

Installed the driveline, re-mounted the front bumper. The mounts that were used before the histeer/RUF were both weak and unimpressive. And they were in the way.... I remedied all of that...... Probly went overkill, but sometimes that's all I know..... Pics Driveline, has over 2" of compression and around a foot of extension.... And the new, improved bumper mounts... I will enlarge the holes in the lower gussets to accept shackles.....

Today I installed the flat pitman and built my front driveline. The driveline has just over a foot of slip in it now and is probably the perfect length for duals. Since i am not ready yet for the duals though, I am going to cut a couple inches off the slip sections so it will work for me with just one case, maybe I'll change my mind and just get 4.7 gears and only run a single case... Thoughts??? Anyway, pics....... Pitman arm worked out perfect..... Pile of cut up and trimmed/fit driveline parts prepped for weld.... Finished product....

Got it on the road.... Wow, drives fantastic, totally impressed..... Drove through a ditch, looks like it will flex real well. Still need a flat pitman, it is ordered and should be here by friday. Next to do is remount the front bumper, install the sliders, and build the front driveline.... I have some farm implement PTO stock I'm gonna use for driveline material, should work fantastic.... Pics..... This is the driveline stock..... And the truck with RUF/histeer/12" shocks done.....

I smiled a lil when I seen that pile of front frame on the floor haha.... Funny how much bigger the iceberg is below the suface....... Keep up the good work, it will payoff in the end.....

I used the towers on my FJ80.....