Kostamojen

Looks like a pre-79 bumper beam to me. I think those pics were posted over on the Japanese Nostalgic Forums, they've got a running thread going about junkyards.

That I have That I don't have... Sitting outside? Not so much. Driving in the rain? Possibly. I do want this chassis to be able to hold up to the elements as best as possible.

That is something i'm concerned about. There doesn't appear to be anything inside the sills. How should I go about rust proofing that area? There's not much access to that area either.

Maybe WCSS 12 Right now, i've spent enough to buy a Yaris. When i'm done, I'll probably have spent enough to buy a new WRX.

Thanks Aust = Australia I presume?

Here you can see exactly how much room there is now. But REMEMBER, this is bottomed out, so when its riding at the normal height this means its low enough but it won't hit anything when it does bottom out: I used a credit-card size card to see exactly how low parts of the car are at right now. Still plenty of ground clearance: I'm 5'9", so you can see here exactly how small the car is:

Got the new struts on. Here are a few pics... Old Struts bottomed out: New Struts bottomed out:

I apologize for yesterdays craptastic photos. Here are a few that actually turned out nice... (Lighting makes all the difference!)

Ya, i'm still interested in the grill. Don't need front corner lights though, got the clear ones from Japan. I've got two brand new taillights too, but they are both one side (although I was going to flip the lenses around and still use them) but let me know what you do have and what you are able to get rid of!

I did this at a bad time, not very good light. Ill try again tomorrow morning. Its no problem either since I can push it in and out of the garage by myself

Tires installed and on the car! I'll roll it out the garage this weekend and take GOOD photos... But I know what length of shocks I need now (its bottomed out right now, which means I need SHORTER shocks) Plenty of rear clearance now! Bad news... The FRONTS need spacers They don't clear the center of the hubs... I saw a pic on that JDM blog that had spacers in the front and I wondered why, now I know...

Just got the wheels back from the powdercoater... Tires will be here Tuesday

806738040 - Still good, thousands in stock 806770013 - Still good, ~60 in the US 812764110 - Still good, ~200 in the US 11121AA011 - Still good, ~30 in the US 11126AA000 - Still good, hundreds of thousands stocked 824206100 - Still good, hundreds in stock 15208AA000 - Still good (supersedes) thousands in stock 806910050 - Still good, ~500 in stock 806947020 - Still good, ~1000 in stock 806915050 - Still good, ~250 in stock 420737110 - Still good, only 5 in stock!!! 420587110 - Still good, only 8 in stock!!! 420747110 - Still good, only 3 in stock!!! 420727110 - Part number does not exist 420777310 - Still good, only 2 in stock!!! 30539AA000 - Still good, ~2500 in stock Those plug wires you can get probably at any auto store... Or go with something better, like NGK or MSD custom wires.

First I cleaned the surface of the heavy dirt deposits. Then I used either a wire rotary brush on an angle grider, or a paint striper tool for a drill to remove the paint/rust as much as possible (you can actually leave the rust with Por-15, but you do need to clean the surface of debris) Then I applied the "metal-ready" Por-15 brand metal-prep (which does some de-rusting as well as making the surface of the metal more "grippy" for the paint) Then I applied the Por-15 with disposable foam brushes, usually 3 coats letting it dry overnight. Lastly I applied the "Black Coat" product from Por-15's catalog using foam brushes as well, about 3 coats of that, perhaps more or less depending on the application, letting it dry overnight. Both Por-15 and Blackcoat can be sprayed on if you have the tools to do that. But I used these specifically so I could brush them on and apply it to only the surfaces I wanted to paint and in some cases thicker in certain spots. Worked pretty well IMO. However, everything that will be more visable on the car that I want to paint black, will be powder-coated instead.

Just paint, and I used Por-15 with the "Black Coat" topcoat paint over it.

Are you doing a restoration? If not, I'd ditch that fan assembly and put in a second electric fan that won't fall apart as easily as those do.

Sorry for the lack of updates lately. I've been working on things that aren't really worth photographing yet, but heres what i've got going on right now... I put the front and rear suspensions partly back together (the front is almost done, minus bushings, and the rear is done but the whole torsion-rod setup back there will require me to build it off the car and reinstall it) so when my wheels/tires are done I can test the ride height and pick which shocks I'll used based on minimum-height. Here are a couple photos of the rolled front fenders that actually came out quite well: Oh, and I test-fit the "Sports" / JDM front grill! As you can see, it does a MUCH better job of hiding the front suspension than the original valence did...

EG33 would require MAJOR cutting of the frame rails to squeeze it in there... If you want to do a drag car, and want to keep it relativly easy, I'd try a EJ22T. People have been fitting EJ22's in the engine bay no problem, and the EJ22T has the same shape of cylinder heads which means the clearance will be the same as the EJ22, but you have a turbo of course

Awesome! Thanks! /hijack

I've seen KONI inserts, along with random generic (Tokico?) inserts pop up on ebay... As for the rears, there might be a specific length that you want, but if you actually go through a Monroe/Gabriel catalog manually and figure out which ends are compatible and such, then cross reference the lengths, you will find about a half dozen options. And if you use those part numbers to cross reference with KYB, you will find more options. PLUS, there are expensive options like Bilstein and KONI that can cross reference with those part numbers as well. So if you add up all those brands PLUS a couple of different lengths you might want, you can find quite a few to pick through. And trust me, those lengths for the shocks you are looking for are MUCH easier to find than the ones for my FF-1, and i've found several options for it. If you want me to do it, I can, but it takes a LONG time to sort through all of it.

My parts manual actually says 1970 for the FF-1 stuff, but the photos and part numbers are incorrect for some very specific things on my year/model of FF-1 and actually show the 1971-72 model... Its somewhat frustrating. According to the Hollander interchange manual I picked up, there were 3 "phases" of FF-1's sold in the states... Phase 1 which was pre-1970, Phase 2 which was ONLY 1970 models (and which my VIN number indicates it belongs to), and Phase 3 which were the late 1970 to 1972 models. It seems to be the only book that somewhat explains the differences through the years, like how my rear brakes/suspension is different and not compatible with the later models...

To be honest, because of the very basic design of rear shocks on the Gen 1's, shock options are almost limit-less... The fronts are more difficult, unless you replace the inserts, which would also mean you have MANY options.

I've got the same 72-77/78 parts book. I just finished dividing it out into its 3 sections and putting all the pages in plastic sleeves so I can take them out and scan them if need be. It would take forever to scan them into the computer for posting and I don't have that kind of time, but if anyone needs something specific let me know... Oh, and has anyone ever seen or heard of a ~1970 parts manual for the FF-1's? The one I have is 72, and a few things are quite different, like the interior dash parts and rear suspension.

I think the EA71 you are thinking of is the one with the simular block to the EA81. The EA71 built in the 70's is closer related to the 1400's and such, so they don't have the "wider" case.

Yahoo auction. Long story on how I found it... I've been monitoring those auctions, I even learned how to search for "Subaru" in Japanese スバル so anyway, I spoted an auction that kept showing up for subaru + ff-1 but it didn't have a photo. So I babelfished the page, and it said "weber", "manifold" and "IDF44" in there when translated, so I figured it might be one of these manifolds. I did more digging, clicked on the user name who posted it, and it turned out it linked to the SAME blog i've seen before (and posted) that had that manifold in it. So I had my source ask him if it was indeed the same manifold from the blog, and it turned out it was So I had kiernna bid on it, win the auction, and now I have it!!! The 1100 does indeed have a different size intake port for the manifold, but the bolt pattern is the same. Oh, and your post concerned me so much that the first thing I did when it arrived was compare it to a 1400 manifold I had. Turns out they are a match