gregB

Thanks, It has a 2.2 transplant from a 1995. CAn the knock sensor be gotten to without major disassembly? I can check on sons 2.2 legacy sedan when I get home but a starting location would realy help out. Have not found it yet in the pdf's I have of the FSM. If the knock sensor fixes drivability I'll bring it home and at least have a cool garage floor to work on instead of hot parking lot. Greg

Not any of the ones you mentioned , but the same kind of chain. That why I was looking for a independent shop that may work with her. I did put a new rear O2 on it within the last year to a high resistance code. Not really looking forward to the 2.5 hour drive, into 98° heat tomorrow to look at the car. If it's running resonable I'll probably bring it home to work it out here if I cannot find someone there.

Daughter has my 97 Legacy GT with 95 2.2 Transplant. Now throwing the infamous P0420 code. The shop she took it to "ran the diagnostics" and said both cats, to the tune of $800-900, plus the knock sensor. She said it runs real bad, rough, after it sits awhile, I'm going to visit to get more deatils. Anyone near 08012 in the Turnersville, Blackwood area in NJ, or have a lead on a good Indy shop?

Seach over on Subaruoutback.org, there are a couple of good threads about the the problem.

When I had my exhaust problem on mt 97 GT wagon, I could not find a split clamp that fit right. Any P/N or web site info for the pic above or one that fits stock exhaust size?

When we bought the wifes 2008 Outback, I did a bunch of "reading" about what you are describing. There are a couple of very long threads on another Subaru forum, for Outbacks specifically. If I remember the alignment specs did change, and the suggestion of alignment with some extra weight in the car to simulate passenger load was suggested. Lots of opinions offered, little concrete fact as Subaru has really not owned up to a problem with the lifting of the car without re-engineering the suspensions.

Warranty issues? Haven't bought a new vehicle since 94, so I have not had to worry about those kinds of things.

I stopped at the local Goodyear tire store on the way home yesterday. Told the counter guy, who I have delt with before, what I was looking for on the Outback. Believe it or not the first tire he wanted to sell me was not a Goodyear. I did ask him about speed ratings. The tire he quoted me was only about 10% higher in price for the V speed rated that Subaru spec'd. What he did tell me is besides the "higher "speed rating , there are construction differences to acheive the speed rating that stiffen the sidewall. This stiffness gives a more stable tire and contact patch during aggressive evasive manuvers. He will sell me either tire, but for the difference I'll take the stiffer tire for the wifes car. That is now that I have a reasonable explaination as to the Why question.

I just started to look at replacement tires for my wife's 2008 Outback 2.5i Limited. It currently has Kumho KH16 225-55-17's. Like to stay with reasonable wearing All-Seasons. If it is going to snow alot, she usually works from home, so straight winter tires are sort of overkill. I've got a paid for Cherokee if its real bad. The place I stopped at over lunch said flat out they would not sell me tires below the MFG OEM Speed rating! Can someone explain why the OEM tire carried a speed rating of "V" or 149mph?

Try here http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=66334

Pretty sure wife uses the Lexol products on her horse tack to soften etc. Try a TSC or Farm and Fleet type store. Also a lot of the Big Box Pet places have a section for horse Equine stuff.

On the sedans it is two bolts and a catch to remove back seat bottom. Then you have access to the two wire voltage connector to the pump. If you connect 12v to the pump side, with a hose pulled off the fuel filter you can check pump for performance, installed in the tank. Learned all this last week on my fuel filler pipe project. My pump was drawing 4 amps as it was pumping fuel.

Got home tonight looked and decided the easiest way to power the pump was to pull the back seat bottom and tap into the two pin connector that is there. Pumped out about 10 gallons from the full tank. Pulled the fuel line off the filter outlet in the engine bay and ran a hose to a gas can. Only ran the pump for about 2 gallons at a time. Let it sit for awhile in-between, to make sure the pump did not get to hot. Was feeling good about it until we tried to restart. Had to try short key ons to refill the lines. Then it started to run rough, idle smooth, but get rough with increased throttle. Then the low fuel light came on when the gauge said 1/4. Definately weird. Check engine light popped on also. After repeated attempts it was smooth enough to go for it, up the road 1.5 miles to the shop. ran smooth, and low fuel light went out. Any idea's?

Thanks Dave, was sort of thinking along those lines. Anyone know for sure if the pump needs jumpered to run, or will it run with the key in the on position? With the line open it will not build much pressure so a limit switch should not be a factor. Guess its time to start looking at the wiring diagrams.

Smelled gas again after the son filled up his 97 legacy L sedan. Found drips on the outside, just at the bottom of the "trap" (low spot in filler pipe). Took the cover off and got about 3/4 cup of gas soaked dirt. See picture As you can see i have a new filler pipe, but tank is full Any easy way to pump the tank empty? He is leaving for college Saturday not much time to road trip to empty it out.

My 97 GT auto wagon, with a 2.2 transplant, gets a consistant 21-22 around town. Did a fuel filter, subaru plugs+wires, checked brakes for drag etc. did not get much mprovement, but I have read others having improvements in mileage. The sons Legacy 4dr sedan, 2.2 auto consistantly gets 25 around town, 28-29 on the highway. Go figure.

There were a couple of posts I found, one did have some pics of where on the circuit board to look.

The wifes 08 Outback did a similar trick once. Found this post somewhere else. Interesting read. http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/80-electrical-electronics/23909-08-o-b-radio-hvac-control-lighting-prob.html Seems it applies to multiple years.

Shawn, I read your post with great interest. Last fall we bought the wife a 2008 Outback LTD, with the dynamic control system. There does not appear to be a FWD fuse in it , at least that I can find. This winter was so mild we did not have any conditions to test it out, really. Would the VDC system affect or minimize the "condition"? Save for waiting for ice is there anyway of checking the car out?

I was experiencing the same condiiton and it just started. High ~1500 rpm at start, outside temp 40-50°F. If I blip the pedal it settles down to "normal" idle speed. Had the valve pictured above off and cleaned it with MAF cleaner. Not much junk came out. The rotating part was not completely closed, but would move against the spring if pushed. Should the rotating part normally be fully closed, open or some where in between? Can it be adjusted? I did put in a new temp sensor also, cleaned out the vaccum lines etc. Ideas?

Well I got it quiet. When I was rocking the car back and forth with the hood open I pin pointed the noise to the "dog bone" mount bracket on the firewall. Removed dogbone and noticed a shiny rub mark on the top. Then I turned it upside down, so that you could see the face front arrow when it was installed. Noise is gone It was mounted wrong side up this whole time . Another noise gone, more things to fix.

Did the passenger side axle yesterday. When double checking the tightness of the lug nuts noticed my "creak" When you use a breaker bar to tighten the car rolls front just a little bit, and it made the noise. Wheel/trans being torqued lifting the rear bad mount and making the noise? Since the wifes 2000 Passat wagon dropped the power window glass this am the GT goes backburner for right now. But, how hard a swap is the rear mount? Easy so it may be worth trying the used one that is on the spare trans? If it is tough, I'll wait and buy a new one.

I figured it would be a painful process of elimination. To check the mounts, remove dogbone and pry with large bar?

This car has had the noise since I have had it. The creaking noise seems to be centered in upper dash above raido around the vents. Thought it might have been a bad "dogbone" from the trans to the body. Replaced that a couple of months ago, quiet for a little bit but back again. If you are sitting still running the engine, and drop it into gear it will creak. Take it out or gear into neutral same noise. On the highway giving gas on slight upgrade it will be creaking, let off gas goes quiet. It seems that any time you change the loading on the engine, or torque it will make the noise. Also sometimes sounds like it is also related to suspension movement. I'm going to change the noisy axle this weekend, just thinking about what to check next for noise abatement. Any ideas?

95 2.2 swap, autotrans. Engine supposedly has 130,000 or so. I had just put plugs and subaruwires on it. Replaced the PCV valve. I was getting a steady 22-23 mpg before she took it to Binghamton. Complained of only getting 18-19 mpg. I did notice that it idles high, 1500 or so for some time after start-up. To the point of wanting to pull out when stopped for a light. The idle will eventually settle back into the 750 rpm range.