gregB

I ordered, never got the cans. Also have to check credit card to see if I got charged. I did go back to the link, now it says 5.95 for shipping. Maybe someone screwed up the first webpage and forgot to have shipping collected?

No used parts from me. Everything I own keeps breaking. Daughter brought back the 97 GT wagon with a bad cv joint, split belts, broken window switch and who knows what else. Check classfieds here, e-bay, or Craigs List. There is a guy in the York/Dover area who runs adds for parts frequently. As far as LMC, I priced a tow hitch from there via the website. Gave me some rediculous low shipping price. Did not seem to be an option for local pick-up. But the parts counter guy said that they would match web prices if you asked.

Local dealer has a website ordering system, discounted from MSRP http://parts.subaru.com/?siteid=216358

She did say that from now on they were going to let it warm-up, before they pull out. That might help, but having no -10° days would be better !!! I'll remind her to test before pulling out, but I'd feel better if I could check it out myself. Only have had the GT for a year, and have not gone thru everything yet. And now that it lives in another state, it complicates the issue. Man I would really would like to find a good indy in Binghamton NY. Thanks guys

Just heard from the daughter who has the GT in Binghamton NY. Last week when it was -10° F, she said they got in started the car, it started OK just a little slow. At -10 no wonder! But when they pulled out and hit the brakes, nothing , slid into the garage wall no damage. It has been fine since then, according to last nights e-mail. Cannot figure out what the mode of failure might have been Any ideas? I did do new rotors and pads for state inspection prior to her getting the car. Had also cleaned and re-lubed the slider pins as part of that project. I will ask her to look for obvious leaks, but if it is a leak why would the brakes work now ?

Posted a wanted ad for a wheel, daughter called, wheel was loose again this afternoon. I did send her new lug nuts, and a breaker bar/cheater pipe with socket so she could get them tight. Hopefully she can get them tight tomorrow. Any leads to a good shop in Binghamton NY.? 8 hour round trip is an awful long time for a 15 min job.

When it happpened the first time I checked the threads on the studs, no damage. Even held a sqare up to the studs to look for bent. I did notice some uneven surfaces on the stock snowflake wheel. Anyway of cleaning that up? Taper reamer? They are the original lugnuts. I drove it for months with no issue. I do torque these down to 75 ftlbs with a torque wrench. Start the nuts by hand, tighten in a star pattern, till tight @ torque. Drop off the jack final torque check. I am going to send daughter new lugnuts and an appropriate breaker bar and socket. Have her boyfriend replace them and tighten as tight as he can. Sort of why I asked about shops in that area, would rather rely on a trained mechanic, or even tire guy to torque the nuts, instead of the boyfriend. Binghamton NY , anyone? Maybe I'll have to take the wifes new to us 2008 Outback 2.5i for a weekend trip soon.

Well It happened again Gave the Gt Wagon to daughter after she drove her Escort Wagon home 4 hours with what sounds like a bad rod knock She called me yesterday, and said there was banging from the same drivers front side that came loose on the wife. Told her to tighten and check lugnuts frequently. Is there anyway to clean up the wheel taper where the nuts tighten the wheel down? Replace the lugnuts? Ideas ? Anyone know of a good indy shop in Binghamton/Johnson City New York? Greg

Did the passenger side Rack boot yesterday. I turned the wheel so I was not trying to stretch the boot, Jumped right into place. Next fix is the leaks around the Rack from Power streering? FLuid drips are sort of red color. I seem to remember a posting about replacing o-rings ? At the hose ends?

Got one side done last night. Used a long 13mm openend that was resting on the drive axle. Put the 19mm flarenut wrench on the lock nut. Then hooked a long 19mm box wrench on to the other end of the flare wrench. A couple of grunts later it was loose. Tie rod end was a breeze. marked and counted turns before I removed it. The boot was real "fun" to install over the Rack housing channel. Used a tie wrap instead of the wimpy spring clamp. The GT is back on all fours Well tonight I jack up the other corner for the other boot.

Gary, Sort off half tried all those yesterday. Have not tried heat yet. Have been hitting it with PB Blaster. Today I am scrounging longer metric wrenches for more leverage. also a metric flarre nut wrench for the nut and inner tie rod shaft. May have to resort to my moster pipe wrenches to get the leverage to hold it still. Not a very good angle just off the ground on jackstands. At least its on a cool concrete floor, and its nice enough outside to drive the convertable

Anyone have any tips or hints on how to break them loose. Just did a front wheel bearing, and had to pull the spindle because the ABS sender bolt snapped off. Got that all back together again, so I figured before I had the front end checked I would replace the rack boots, they are both shot. But I could not break loose the outer tie rod. Any tricks before I get out the fire wrench and nut splitter? Greg

I had to pull my pan off, due to noisy pump, the pan was dented and closed off filter screen inlet. I let it sit fro a couple of days dripping. Wiped it good and clean, even up the side wall of the trans. Then I used a rubber gasket that came with the filter screen kit. Applied a supper thin layer of black RTV as gasket cement to hold it in place. Used the low torque mentioned above. 6+ months no drips , now if cam seals would be quite that easy, they would already be done. Greg

Unfortunately mine was the leaky condensor coil . But its making cold again, wifey is a happy camper

Well I replaced o-rings and dryer. Got the o ring kit at A-Zone also the dryer. The o-rings seemed a little "loose" on the hose ends at the compressor. Dryer seemed OK. Hooked up the gages, and vaccum pump. It pulled a good vaccum, I let it run 1/2 hour, but when I dead headed it the vaccum went away. Do our systems use standard o-rings? I hate to put any freon in the system knowing there may be a leak. Any ideas of what next? thanks Greg

Had a similar issue with the wifes protoge. After the inept dealer we bought it from, could not find the problem on our large dime, I took it to an AC shop. His diagnosis, similar to post above, adjusted the clutch, $50 away we went. Worked great until some kid hit the wife and totaled the car. As i was recently reminded, having a good small indy shop in the area is great.

Now that I have my annual state inspection covered, my next project is the AC system. It had no pressure reading on my gages, checked the o-rings on the compressor lines, damaged/shot. Going to order o-ring kit , new dryer canister, fittings etc. Really would like to have a copy of procedure to follow, and pressures after charging. Cannot seem to find the Ac info in the manuals I have downloaded. Also I know to pull a vaccum before adding freon, but how do you add the oil into the system and where? thanks Greg

Finally went to the indy exhaust place a co-worker recommended. $40 he put in a welded sleeve, and welded up a large crack on the inlet side of the rear cat. Got my yearly sticker without spending big bucks on a replacement cat. thanks guys Any chance this would also improve the gas mileage, as I am no longer drawing in a little excess air in front of the rear o2 sensor?

That what I figured after I started web trolling. Is there any reason not to also get the dounut gasket from Autozone or Advance? Thanks Greg

I crawled under the car finally. The spring bolted "doughnut" seal collar clamp has rusted and pulled off the rear outlet of the cat where it is flanged. Can this be repaired by parts replacement, Or do I need to see a specialist?

My rear Cat pipe cracked, just before state inspection Before I spend money, has anyone had any sucess welding up the crack? I have a Mig, but have never tried anything this thin. Not even sure anymore in PA if you are allowed to weld an exhaust to repair. Thoughts? Greg

My 97 Legacy GT has no AC, looks like a bad o-ring. The larger one on the low side hose to the compressor. Its pretty stiff and smashed, I do not know if I can size it correctly. Does anyone have the part number for both the o-rings on the compressor? Or the standard o-ring size number? Thanks for any help Greg

When I did mine, used thin layer of Permatex Black on the pan to tack the neoprene gasket in place. Careful not to over torque bolts. Has not leaked yet, + 4 weeks from install.

Wife was driving my new to me 97 Gt wagon, with 2.2 swap to work. The car is supposed to be my daily driver, but hers for her 25mi trip to work in snow. She was driving into work, crossed a rough rail road track, and then the front end started making noise, clunking and steering wheel shaking. Thought maybe she bent something. Went over to look at the car, nothing obvious, so I said I would drive it home. Started out no noise, then depending on speed and wheel position thumping from rotating parts. I'm thinking maybe nocked it hard enough for CV joint to crack. Not really sure. Got it home into the garage, grabbed the 19mm socket and went to put it onto the lug nut to check the size. Spun it by hand Checked the rest all loose or finger tight. When I bought car I had the local Goodyear shop put on a set of Eagles. Looked at the wheel where the lug nuts ride, you can see some shiny rubbing and stud thread lines on the thru hole of the wheel. I guess hitting the pot hole like rail crossing shifted the already loose wheel. Tightened up the lug nuts, noise went away so far. Checked the other wheels, backs were torqued to spec, a couple of the other side fronts were loose also. Lesson, If you want it done right do it yourself, or at least double check the "professional" you pay to do the job.

That was my thought, also the seperator plate while it is out. I am going to try and hold off until Spring though. Wife has been tolerant of me using her heated garage so far but do not want to push the issue right now. And my two bay shop garage does not even have a ceiling, just ridge vents to let any heat out. Greg