Allpar Mod

The only thing excess length on wires is of concern is if they contact parts that may cause chafing or get burned from the movement and vibration of the engine. Make sure the wires stay away from the block and other assorted parts.

I had a shock the other day. I had noticed that the OBW was not performing the way it should, and did, over a couple of days. I initially chalked it up to the heat, though it was not a temperature problem. The temp gauge was where it always sits. The engine hesitated a bit and was sluggish especially with the a/c on. I thought that there was a tune up issue developing as that's the way it felt. Well, on the way home from shift Monday, I noticed a few times it acted like there was an electrical issue developing now. The gauges fluctuated wildly with any extra draw, like turn signals or brake lights. Finally it died at a stop light at the end of an exit ramp. The battery was dead. The wife brought me out another battery I had from the Jeep I'm reconditioning and I got it home. At hoime, I checked the charging system and the alternator had crapped the bed. It was only registering 11 volts with the charged Jeep battery. I charged the OBW battery and it came back 100% including a load test. Side note.....obviously my low voltage indicator is not functioning. Another issue entirely. I'm installing a gauge in a pillar pod after shift today. So, the moral of the story is low voltage can and will effect performance. It doesn't hurt either to check that your idiot lights work also.

I have a friend who was originally going to move to Cali, but ended up in Arizona. While he was looking into registering his '98 Explorer from Pennsylvania to Cali, after he found out what was involved and the expense, he decided that if he moved to Cali, he would sell the Explorer here first. It just wasn't worth it.

I have to replace the rear cat on my '99 OBW. So far, for an exact OEM style replacement, the best price I can find is from autopartswarehouse.com, $146 & change. If I want to go through the hassle of a universal, I can get one for $77. Anyone know of any better prices out there or possibly have one laying around? The rear cat on this model houses the downstream O2 sensor.

It sounds like the resonator was eliminated from this car at some time previously. If the '98 is basically the same as my '99, it goes front cat, rear cat (containing the downstream O2 sensor), resonator, and pipe to muffler. If so, the pipe doesn't have a name specifically. I have to do some mods to my exhaust. The rear flange for the rear cat has rotted though the front cat flange is intact. I welded it temporarily to the pipe to the resonator which is going also to buy some time. I'm likely going to eliminate the resonator also.

I'd say the risk of getting cited is pretty slim. Cops don't go out of their way to look for damaged windshields on the interstates. Anyway, how would they know that it didn't happen during your current travels? It is conceivable. I'd say make the decision based on safety. The windshield is weaker now. The odds of something happening catastrophic is low, but is there especially at highway speeds. Personally, if it is bad enough, I'd get it done now.

As my OBW is doing pretty good and isn't in need of much, but I am in the process of freshening up an engine to do a swap in one of my '97 Jeeps ( 235,000 and it is going south, but still runs), I thought of asking this after reading many posts since I joined this board. I understand brand preference after being around cars most of my life as I am. I see a lot of brand loyalty toward genuine Subaru parts here, even though Subaru doesn't make much, if not all, of what is being installed. To the best of my knowledge, no manufacturer does. The same goes for OEM parts brands like NGK, etc. Now, I realize that it is true that in some occassions, some branded parts work better in some brands of cars, for example that some cars don't like some brands of spark plugs. What I don't understand and would appreciate enlightening me of is that why there is some vehement insistance that only Subaru branded parts should be used, like for timing belts, spark plug wires, and numerous other components. There is a recent thread here that even recommends the original brand of motor oil even though there have been tests that show that even though Havoline, being an API approved oil, is good, there are other brands that out performed it especially on thermal breakdown. I've used non OEM brands on various cars I've owned over the years, both foreign and domestic, and have had , in some instances, better results with non OEM brands. For example, I use exclusively Bosch plugs in my vehicles including the Jeeps and my Ford truck. I like the way the vehicles perform on them and their longevity. They are never recommended for Soobs here. I'm not being critical, to be clear here, but am trying to understand the rationale. There are only so many companies making parts and it is likely that some of the companies that make parts under other brands make at least some of the Subaru branded components. Clear up my confusion, guys.

I Seafoamed my '99 OBW like was suggested in the past thread. Two things: * It'll suck the can dry very quickly. Be ready for that. * The smoke is impressive. Your car will look like something from a James Bond picture for a while until all of the Seafoam is burned up. So, don't do it in a garage. If you live close to your neighbors and like them, you might want to wait until they're gone to work or something. My O2 sensors seemed to have survived ok. I did this last fall after I bought it and have seen no ill effects since.

As I pointed out, the reason for returns to the body shop...untreated rust patched up. Even on surface rust, grinding and sanding it makes it look like it's all gone, but if you looked close enough with a magnifier, you'd see it in pores of shiny metal near where the bulk of the rust was. This is why a rust converter is so necessary. Use it on the adjacent areas to the main hole and soon you'll see spots of black, the rust in the pores being converted. Naval Jelly is one of the oldest ones that actually worked. I remember my dad using it when I was a kid and that's a while ago. Truthfully, I forgot about it as it's been a long time since I used it. The SEM body products are superior as they are designed to work on body metal. The Rust Seal is a bit thicker than the Rust Mort and will cling a bit better, but both work very well. I have used them both. I haven't heard any feedback on the DupliColor product so I have no opinion either way.

Make sure you get a pressure gauge to measure the pressure so you do not overcharge the system. 40 psi is about correct. They make inexpensive gauges that are available at most auto parts stores. Don't guess. Undercharging will result in ineffective cooling. Overcharging will damage the seals.

Make sure you treat the rusted areas after you grind to good metal and before you patch the holes or it will reoccur. Try as best as possible to get the chemicals in the back of the metal also. There are a couple very good rust treatments made by SEM which are available at body shop suppliers in most major cities. Rust Mort and Rust Seal are two of the better SEM products.

Hey newbie. Welcome to the one site that really is user friendly. I've been on other sites and the regulars here treat everyone with respect and actually try to answer one's issues. We have owned several makes of vehicles and somehow end up with a Subaru in the drive somewhere along the line. The cars just plain make sense. Pay attention to the particular issues with the specific model years and you won't be caught off guard by any problems that may come up. Mt first was an '89 Loyale wagon that I resurrected after one of my brothers in law drove it off into a corn field in a less than sober condition. $350 in front end parts later, I had a good reliable car for several years I sold it at auction in 2000 for several hundred dollars still running and inspected, though it had turned into quite the rust bucket. Now, I have a '99 Legacy Outback Limited wagon which I bought with 68,000 miles on it for $4200 last year when my Jeep engine went south with 235,000. We had some of the worst snow ever here over the winter and the OBW got me to work and back every day on time without missing a beat. I know about Beemers and how expensive they are to own. There is a BMW dealership right across from where I work and the service department is always busy. I see plenty of them coming in on flatbeds. In the end, defecting to Subaru is a decision that you will not regret.

The screeching sound on defrost was definately a/c compressor oriented. It sounds like the clutch is bound up. If the large connector at the compressor was disconnected since before you bought the car, it failed on the PO and he just disconnected it rather than having it fixed at some expense. When you switch an a/c equipped car to defrost, it cycles the a/c to keep things working better over the long run. You don't really notice it in the winter because you have the temperature control set to warm. There is still at least one electrical gremlin there for the other issues. I'd check the things that you have already been suggested to check and add all grounding points. Grounding issues contribute to a lot of electrical woes, especially on cars with some age and those from this side of the country where corrosion is more prevalent. It won't hurt to have the alternator checked as it's not unheard of for a rebuilt one to fail prematurely. Some rebuilders don't have the quality control that others have and one is left to the mercy of the retailer as to quality of the parts you buy. I went through this with a starter quite a while back and fortunately, the retail chain is no longer in business as I was far from the only person to have this problem.

As usual, thanks for the responses. So let me get this straight.....GM 15x7 wheels have the same bolt pattern and offset as my factory wheels as well as Mopar Caravan/Voyager/Town & Country? If so, that opens a lot of doors. I don't find this off the wall at all as I was able to use Ford Ranger wheels on my Jeep Cherokees.

I don't know exactly what this means but there is nary a 15" wheel for my '99 OBW anywhere in the area. I've been trying to locate 4 wheels for my summer tires and nobody has any. Has anyone experienced this issue in their area? I'd even settle for 4 plain Jane steel ones and buy a set of 15" covers.

Here's a few things to consider in regard to hand tools. I have found that the adage "When you cheap out, you end up paying for it twice" applies. It's much better to get a better quality tool than the cheapy Chinese brands, even though I do buy some things from Harbor Freight, and just pay for them once and done. Hand tools are never one of the things I buy cheap. True, they do work for some, but it has been proven that the measurements and tolerances of the tools like sockets and wrenches are not always accurate on the cheap tools and you run a higher risk of rounding out nut and bolt heads than with a better quality set. Also, the risk of breaking the tool under repeated stresses is much greater. I look at tools as an investment that saves me money down the road. Also, there are few tools that have only one use, so they are there for whatever job you have to deal with, automotive, RV or home, etc. Some cheap tools do carry a lifetime warranty like Harbor Freight's Pitsburgh line. Still, if there isn't a brick & mortar store near you, the hassle of exchange through the mail is a very slow one. If you need your tool today and it breaks, there is usually a Sears store somewhere not that far away. Craftsman tools are still exchanged over the counter without any hassle or receipts needed as always. The preferred mechanic's lines like Matco, Snap-On and the rest are great tools for sure, but can be financially prohibitive for many to buy who don't use them for their career. Also, availability is tough as they are usually sold only by the roving truck dealers, with possible exception of mail order. I've had an ever growing cache (up to two large tool chests now) of Craftsmen tools for over 30 years now and nearly all of the original ones are still in use. I've only exchanged two over the years, a screwdriver and a set of locking pliers. I've beat them mercilessly and they always work just fine. I do have a couple of Home Depot's Husky line tools and one or two of Lowe's Cobalt ones. They have a similar warranty as Sears and are also good tool lines to consider. Husky air tools are excellent quality and a good value. I was recommended them by a diesel mechanic who kept destroying Snap-On impact guns until he switched brands on a whim. I bought a Husky Professional for $99 and put it through sheer heck and it always works just great. Spend a few bucks and buy quality. You will not regret the investment.

So, basically, the Neoform is Trico's answer to the Rain-X Latitude. I've used the Latitude with significant satisfaction. There's a set on the Soob now. I've used Trico blades over the years a lot and will have to try these next time. By the by, Pep Boys sells their own brand of this style of blade now. Save your money. Junk.

Don't be surprised that the Haynes manual is erroneous. I have found that these manuals are notoriously error filled. They also seem to forget to include important information way too often. Obviously, no aftermarket manual will be the same as a factory shop manual, but these are the worst, in my opinion.

I have to agree with Rooster. Better to buy $2 bulb than a $90 stalk just to find out that it's the bulb in the first place. At least if it isn't the bulb in the end, you'll have a spare for when one does burn out. No wasted money. I'd bet on a bulb. Check both front and back.

Basically, you need an ambient air temperature of at least 65 degrees for any brand of body putty to work properly. Use it below that and it will not cure properly. Bondo is a bad choice for trim attachment. You'd be better served heading to your local body shop supply and getting some 3M trim adhesive. Barring that, you can use any silicone adhesive. With either, make sure you tape the trim down securely after applying the adhesive for 24 hours to assure a good job. Still, even with these, it might be too cold yet.

Well, I started off for work this am and lo and behold, the locks went back to working normally. They are now back to normal. I don't understand, but am glad still. Maybe it was the good karma from here that scared the gremlin out of my car.

No alarm, remote or keyless entry, or remote starter. Anyone??????

Ok, this one is about as bizarre as I've dealt with yet. If it is unusual or just plain weird, it'll happen to me. My '99 OBW developed a problem today and I'm stumped. When you turn the ignition off, all of the power door locks all snap locked and the switches become inoperable. You have to unlock the car from the inside with the manual toggles. Turn the ignition on and everything works just fine while the ignition is on. Shut the car off and it happens again. I checked all the fuses under the dash and under the hood and all look good. No other vehicle systems are malfunctioning at all. Everything works just fine. Right now, I have to make sure I carry an extra key in my pocket if I get out at a gas station or the like and leave the keys in the car so I'm not locked out. Pain in the butt!!!! I'm at a total loss.

I found tires called Snowtrackers at Sam's Club for $67/each. They look like aggressive light truck/SUV tires resembling slightly the low end Wranglers and such. My '99 OBW has been unstoppable since. I drove to work in the two major snowfalls we had and just by keeping my speed down, made it anywhere I needed to go without problem. The thing is like a little Hummer now. The only bad thing about these tires is that they are a 65 series tire and since the car calls for a 70 series tire, Sam's Club policy is that they will not install them. I had to take them elsewhere to have mounted.

The radio should have two hots, one constant on from the battery to run the clock and memory, and one hot when the ignition is on. It sounds like the constant hot is good and the ignition is not. Could be blown fuses. I'd check the fuses first, all of them. It's always possible that after you did the engine repair, when you reconnected the battery, something was slightly amiss in the wiring and blew fuses. I'd check any wiring you disconnected during the process. Go simple first always. Bad ground connections could explain the dimming headlights. I'd still check them well. If you haven't found the culprit(s) at this point, make sure the battery terminals are clean as you were already told to and do an alternator check.