ThosL

What tools make this job easier? Also does the orientation and torque matter that much? Why did this unit come about in the development of the engine? Is it a necessary part of most engines? Are there any tell tale signs of a failed knock sensor?

It was relatively easy on a 2.2 EJ22 due to better access. This one on an EJ25 was a royal pain! #1 access is highly problematic. If the plug on the old unit won't pull apart you will have big problems as the core unit could get damaged. If you get it apart, and then access the bolt with an extended access ratchet, you still have a lot of problems left. So presuming you are able to pull the bolt up, you still have to align the new knock sensor correctly. Then you have to lower the ratchet with extender and bolt correctly through the sensor donut at just the right position through the mounting hole. I used tape to keep the bolt in the ratchet extender, still it fell out and there is no way to reach it with your hands unless you have fingers like a child. All in all an underrated job better left to mechanics. As the do it yourselfer may not have the right tools to do it.

I saw a youtube video, but was not clear with all the dark and a few discernable parts of the engine. I took off the throttle body cover but could not find it. Anyone have a clear picture of where this is? Thanks.

I bought a MAF sensor online. Emissions test is coming up. For a 1997 2.5 the requirements are lax.

Not performance related, as least as far as I could tell. Knock sensor, two misfire codes, MAF sensor and cat converter. I changed the plugs. Would changing out the MAF, knock sensor or coil as recommended make any difference in mileage, etc.?

I drove up there this morning and the address was near a bunch of used car and body shops, etc.. I called the guy who had said for me to stop by after 10am, and he said his brother sold it yesterday! No call or email. I told him he was very rude and unethical the way he was running this vehicle for sale, he said "we're Jewish that's how we do business". Unbelievable. Last time I looked at a Subaru in Bridgeport it turned out being one that had been flipped from someone who worked at Sikorski they paid $1200 put some head gasket sealer in and sold for $3000!

I don't know, this is the listing: https://newyork.craigslist.org/wch/cto/d/norwalk-2004-subaru-forester-awd-auto/7193980069.htm

I have a friend looking for a reliable car, I have recommended Subarus as low maintenance. I am going to check out this one tomorrow in the low $2Ks, what questions should I ask? 2004 Subaru Forester AWD auto 165k miles runs looks great cold a/c. I'm thinking Subaru is going to be the most reliable for Sam. He has had two cars, a Ford Focus and a VW 4 door fail on him in the last couple years. For low maintenance is this a good way to go?

Hopefully they did it right; $250 or so for the job, also a belt they ordered when I had it inside the car. Quick turn around, now I can work.

The mechanic is going to put it together this am, so hopefully they do it right. Car has 277K miles. I hope I am not being presumptuous that they will get it right.

I'm still not sure what happened here and since I never worked on the HB or the crankshaft, it must have had something to do with either a defective unit or defective installation.

I decided to let a mechanic handle it; the towing company said they would be there in 1 1/2 hours, ended up being 3. Agero, AAA is much better.

I saw some for under a hundred; the labor is going to be the real cost. I need to get the car back on the road soon, have four different jobs, was doing census taking when the car broke down. The harmonic balancer will just bolt back in and the belts go over that? Also need bolts for the unit.

Roughly how much on these, and recommend do it yourself or have my mechanic do it? Last time this was worked on was around two years ago where I had to go back to the mechanic when it came apart.

Harmonic balancer?

Ok, if the crankshaft pulley fell off wouldn't i have heard it? Looking at the crankshaft I am seeing a smooth surface like the pulley disappeared leaving the belts.

I was just on the phone with a mechanically inclined friend; any thoughts on procedure on this? Power steering fails, belt looks loose not broken, but looks like this belt drives most other pumps. Is this a tensioner failure usually?

I've had good luck with the Lucas products. With Blue Devil be sure to keep the receipt and read the guarantee terms, they don't like to pay out. If they balk if it doesn't work and don't want to reimburse you, go to the state consumers agency and that should do the trick.

Ok, so this is beyond my capability. Last time something got damaged when they were trying to get the balljoint out and they had to order extra parts. I checked Rock Auto which is running slow because of covid; even Fed Ex overnight is 3 days, Friday at earliest. I checked around for used spindles and no one locally had one. Found one yard in Hartford area that has one on the shelf with a lot of rust, probably ok otherwise. How do you know if the hub is damaged?

My right side front bearing went two years ago. The other side just went out, not safe to drive now. I parked the car on the way to work, in a church lot, called my insurance covered tow company. I had two tows through my Nationwide care insurance; they use a company called "Agero"; This is the second time I used their contact and tow service. The first time two years ago with a vehicle break down on the highway involved a tow to Norwalk and the tow service driver tried to shake me down for an additional substantial amount of money. Yesterday I contacted them at around 4pm for a 730 pm tow. Plenty of time, I received no service and waited a long time and could wait no longer. At 830pm I called them again and was told it would be 90 minutes before the tow company arrived!!! How do I report this company to a state agency? I have never had a similar problem with AAA! Mechanics I contacted can't get to it until the end of the week. What are the minimum in tools if I do it myself? 1997 Legacy Outback Limited. I called around from a front spindle, nothing local available. A parts finder service found one in NH, delays, I can't wait until next week. What risk would I be taking with a pressed in bearing in front? On rears I had a local shop replace the bearings and they failed within 2 years. I replaced them with rear hub assemblys used at a different shop.

I had several offers at $900; some sellers assume as a Subaru the HGs are a ticking timebomb, but it is a 2.2. A couple guys are interested now at around the asking price.

This was definitely a mechanic's job; I dropped it off and he did the airbag and an exhaust leak, so hopefully the car will be ok for now as I have been trying to sell it. It is running too well to sell for only $1300 IMO.

I let him know, we work in the same company. He should probably change out the thermostat with an OE or similar unit. Thanks.

Thanks for the input. I failed to include the 20 minute time it takes now for heat to come out. I surmised thermostat when I spoke to him.