ThosL

https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/ngQAAOSw5Xtc5ux0/s-l1600.jpg The claim on the unit I put in yesterday was it was OE Subaru, not sure if that is accurate. You don't have to pay $90 for an OE knock sensor like Auto Zone quoted. Absolutely no reason to. There were other OE units on ebay for under $20 delivered. If a mechanic were to charge $90 or more for one and then another $75 plus for installation, that would not be fair. We are over 20 years into when these cars were produced, parts also are old, even if OE and new. If I were selling them, I would be looking to get what I could for them before the market for them collapses.

New unit made all the difference! Lots of power now, no problems. Two different units on ebay: The OE unit: https://www.ebay.com/vod/FetchOrderDetails?itemid=192926413511&transid=1781703698009&ul_noapp=true Bad unit: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Detonation-Knock-sensor-for-1997-1999-Subaru-Legacy-2-2L-2-5L-KS96/353064994578?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

I got an oe knock sensor today, and put it in with some difficulty again. Will see if that was it.

That was what I feared from the beginning which makes it a real mechanic's job, but cel went out yesterday, so will keep monitoring it.

Overheating, not checking the oil; headgaskets. Not many lemons, but surely there are some.

Mine was a little tough to get out too. It felt a little like it may have been crossthreaded but it wasn't. Went in with a little difficulty and does not sink in all the way anyhow.

Someone mentioned this as a possibility for excess oil consumption. I went to Napa and I pulled out the old one after 80K miles or so, it still had a rattle but had gunk inside. When do you change these out. 97/Outback 2.5.

No to both questions. Should change the pcv.

Here is an image of the connector: https://i.imgur.com/XigiKkW.jpg What's the chance that it could have been damaged from the other end where it comes from when I pulled it out?

Is there any remedy if you are burning oil? Seems like I used up a quart in around 200 miles. Had the gaskets changed 2 years ago, so probably not a leak. Do the stop leak products work?

I changed out the oil and filter today; was being careless about the oil I was using like the Walmart Super Tech 10W 30. Today used Valvoline non synthetic 5W 30 and Fram regular filter. Also changed out the air filter for the first time in 4 years and 80K or so miles. I added a quart of the Lucas high mileage oil treatment product, about $12. I've heard two people in the last week admit blowing their engines by not checking their oil levels. Both were 2015 or so late model cars. One of the guys at Walmart was talking today to his friend about the advantage of the premium Fram filter, that you don't have to change the oil for 10K or so miles. I'm seeing too much of this irresponsible talk about not checking your oil. What type of oil are you using? Do other motor oils have an advantage?

I could take some pics; tried to push the connection together again today, drove 200 miles. Power issue seems to manifest at start ups and low speed.

I was wondering about the purpose of this mechanism. Thanks for informing me on the fundamentals of this unit. I torqued it down well twice. Still having the same timing off problem.

Performance still indicates bad knock sensor, ordered another one. I reached in there a few days ago to make sure the connector was solid which seemed to address it but the problem of power lag came back. I ordered an apparently oe unit.

That's what I thought as when replacing one on a 2.2, code went away. I ordered another one will see if it makes any difference. I was thinking I might have damaged the core wiring when I pulled the unit out initially. A mechanic's quick change has turned into a major headache. I changed out the coil yesterday, a ten minute job. The old unit had corrosion dust in the wire plug holes!

Ok, timing seemed off today so knock sensor is apparently not working right. Someone said I need to go to the dealer to have them reset it, I have not heard this before. 1997 2.5.

Also many of the OE parts on cars from the 1990s, etc. are gathering dust looking for buyers, just check ebay listings for OE parts of various types. I would not buy from the box stores if you can get the same ones elsewhere. On my knock sensor, no performance issue, was throwing the code. How common is it for the codes thrown to be inaccurate?

There are plenty of OEs on ebay, etc. for under $20 delivered. https://www.ebay.com/itm/22060-AA061-New-Front-Knock-Sensor-for-Subaru-Legacy-Forester-Impreza-2-2-2-5L/402339281418?_trkparms=aid%3D1110006%26algo%3DHOMESPLICE.SIM%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20140131123730%26meid%3D8036857877cb4ae8aee917033980a4d3%26pid%3D100167%26rk%3D3%26rkt%3D15%26sd%3D192926413511%26itm%3D402339281418%26pmt%3D1%26noa%3D1%26pg%3D5411%26algv%3DDefaultOrganic%26brand%3DUnbranded&_trksid=p5411.c100167.m2940 It makes no sense to pay $50 plus as Auto Zone quoted me, plus the unit I got is working at this point.

CEL went out, so I will monitor the timing related issues which the knock sensor seems to affect.

I have nearly 280K on the car, makes no sense to pay crazy money on this one as OE units should be a lot more reasonable than that.

Would always pay a reasonable premium for an OE. Auto Zone quoted over $90 for a knock sensor they were selling!

Solved the issue; one of the terminal wires into the battery broke away and was hard to see, easy fix.

If you have a known quantity, the car is serviceable and runs well, keep it; made the mistake before of getting rid of a Subaru that was mechanically excellent that did not look great.

Any trouble shooting thoughts on this? I disconnected battery cables to reset the codes after some work. Reconnected them now no juice? I tried for a jump this morning, no change. I called my tow service company for a jump.

I'd point out that a lot of these knock off units are coming from China, may not be quality, not sure. Just check ebay, units are around ten bucks delivered. Went to Auto Zone yesterday to find the code and sure enough knock sensor still. So I checked the connection and made sure the connection was good, car ran better. I disconnected the cables later to reset the code and now the car has zero juice even with jump cables connected. Will start another thread on that.