ThosL

Thanks for the input. I failed to include the 20 minute time it takes now for heat to come out. I surmised thermostat when I spoke to him.

Seasonally, when the temperature changes, the heat and A/C will not work until the car is running for 20 minutes. But it has to heat up for the heat to work. Is this a coolant flow issue or wiring with moisture maybe causing this? A friend wants to know. Is 20 minutes too long to get good heat or AC?

As far as I know it is not defective as the light went on, a long time ago without cause.

Ignition coils are not expensive, if used OE or new Herko, etc.. I don't know how bad that would have to be to not even start. If you put in a starter, what was the previous history of the car and starter? Who installed the new one?

I have had the red light on with the Airbag for a long time. No history of deployments with that. The state inspection passed; someone from NY wants to buy the 1996 Brighton, was a little concerned about the light. I think the fuses were checked and don't think I still have a problem one. Thanks for input on this.

I did the front pads, one side was near metal on metal, the other side was not as bad. I don't know what the likely wear will be on the rear drums once I get the drums off. Thanks for the advice.

A lot of good advice here and I will check out youtube on the brake drum service. What a royal pain, why didn't they switch over all drum brakes to discs when it became economical to do so? Two major hurdles with drums, getting them off and knowing how to remove springs put in new parts and put them back in. Too many challenges unless you are a trained mechanic! With disc brakes, you just take apart the front assembly after jacking the front up and push in the piston with a c clamp and change the pads.

Coil was put in maybe 3 years ago, so seems short term viability. I guess there were drums and discs in same year.

I usually check ebay for both quality new and OE used; Rock Auto of course has good stuff too. I asked a manager at a local Advance Auto whether he matched the prices of online new material and he said yes, which is hard to believe.

Hi, on my 1996 Legacy Brighton wagon the CEL codes have come on again. P301,302; P420. The Auto Zone print out said likely a bad coil. I switched out the spark plugs with NGK's today; I changed the fuel filter, as I was thinking maybe the slow starting was due to that. I tried Techtron FI cleaner, again no discernible difference. So I decided to order a coil, some sellers on ebay had OE used, as well as Herko for around $25 each delivered. Is that the right way to go with this? Also as the cat converter code P420 does not correlate with performance and it only comes up occasionally, is there any basic work around on that? Thanks! Another question on rear brake pads; as I hadn't done it on this vehicle, I ordered disc pads as they looked like the right one but once I pulled off the rear wheel it looks like they are drums. Are those hard to get off and do?

Ok, I'm thinking may be fuel filter as I have a tendency to run the car low on gas so may be scum gets in to filter.

I have noticed a slowing start up with my Brighton wagon, like a fuel issue has been developing. Is this indicative of fuel pump? How quickly would that go bad? I have not checked the plugs though wires were not done long ago.

Wires, plugs and coil are good and recent, that is not it. Could be fuel injector or sensor as others suggested.

CEL went off next drive. Could be gas issue.

Flashing CEL; it hadn't happened in a while. Gas was low but don't think that caused it, there were a couple gallons in the tank I think. I think I've gotten a coolant temp sensor or something before. I have to go to Auto Zone for a code read. The pattern has been periodically trying to accelerate uphill, engine loses power and stalls out with flashing CEL. Goes back to normal after pulling off for a minute.

This hasn't happened in a while; this morning when not letting the 96 2.2 warm up, I pulled out and a mile down the road ascending a hill a loss of power with CEL. I had to pull over for around a minute then it was OK. There has been no CEL code for a while. Any thoughts on sensors that could be to blame? I changed out the MAF sensor a couple years ago.

I had one vehicle where something went bad in the transmission which was due improper maintenance if I remember right; the others have all been fine. Also Lucas tranny oil treatment is good. I've heard varying opinions on changing the transmission fluid and filter that it may stir stuff up that shouldn't be.

Thanks for the links and information. I don't want to have to print out another ream of data, my brain cells are taxed already. But I will try to look at the online information if my mental attention permits.

I checked out the fuses, one was burned out that works the front wipers and rear water squirt; the front water squirt and rear wiper are not working.

I'll try to trouble shoot it tomorrow. I know both fans are on sometimes. So communication between the electronics may be faulty. Fans have to kick on when the engine builds up excess heat.

When I drove down to Advance tonight to return the Blue Devil, the car overheated when stuck in traffic at a crawl but dropped down to where it should be when I put the heat on high. So maybe the fans aren't kicking on in a timely way.

Ok, thanks a lot for the recommendations. I don't have a bright light but will look for number two.

You would probably need strong evidence and a licensed professional with a strong record in substantiating bad service. Somewhat forensic in requirements. Then do a small claims court action if you have enough evidence. But without 100% certainty there is no case.

I have a 96 Brighton wagon, the rear windshield wiper doesn't work, also the fluid for front one. These aren't connected right? How do professionals analyze fuses, with flashlight? I don't have the owners manual.

I will return the Blue Devil, I have enough challenges. I drove the car over 100 miles today, no issues.