dwuollet

that picture is My new background, and I can't wait for pics and video. Hurry!

That was my first hit too, the "text only" line... someones working a scam.

Okay, lubed and re-routed the cable and added a return spring, made a huge difference. still need a new cable but I think after that the problem will be fixed. On to other things, thanks for eveyone's help.

The Motor to body ground is connected. I'll try to get the car in the garage this weekend and re-route the cable. I'll let you guys know how it goes.

I'll fix the routing this weekend and lube the cable, I'll post with results. Thanks!

The cable isn't OEM, Napa, I just checked the routing, it's under the heater hoses but over the steering. I'll change that the first chance I get. But it doesn't seem that far off to me.

as far as I know it was the stock flywheel, I can't imagine considering the condition of the rest of the car that someone put in an XT6 flywheel. I think he said the step was .088 or something, I may have the decimal in the wrong place.

Just got done fixing a friend's '92 Loyale sedan 5 spd, it has a new clutch kit, plate, pressure plate, throw-out bearing, and cable, the flywheel was also turned. The problem is that the clutch pedal is really hard to push, the clutch slips on hard acceleration, engages RIGHT off the floor, and the pedal rides low when your foot is off it. I haven't hooked the hill holder up yet because I have to pull really far to get it to the fork. The clutch should work right without the HH right? It's probably that I have it adjusted wrong, but I've tried adjusting it in both directions, at one end it won't go into gear, at the other the clutch slips alot. The only thing I can think is the fork is bent... Or the flywheel was ground too far. The guy did say he had to take alot of material off to get the step right.

My local Napa actually had the short air filter in stock, you might try there. Follow GD's advice very closely, he won't steer you wrong. the Weber rocks, you won't regret the swap.

St. Helens OR,

My brother works for Seattle Messengers, I asked him to keep an eye out for it. Maybe he'll have the other messengers look too, that's alot of eyes all over the place. they've had alot of luck returning stolen bikes. Good Luck.

I think he's had it acouple or three months maybe, seen it muddy a couple times. I've given him a wave or two but I don't think he see's other sube's.

Obviously I've seen this car too, I drive by almost every day. It would be good to see it go to someone who appreciates it. As far as price goes, what's it worth to you? I've gotten some really good deals and I've overpaid (what some people would have) just because whatever it was had that much worth to me. If you love it, you have the money, do it, if you have misgivings and aren't sure it may not be the right thing. It is a pretty cool car.

Nice ride, I love it when the parts you need are in the garage. I have those exact wheels, I'll post pics as soon as I can. Did you already lift that car? I have 195 70 14's on my pugs and they pretty well fill the fender.

Thanks to GD and the board my car is running like a champ. I really like the sound it makes when I stomp on the gas BWAAAAAAAH! Next is the drivers side axel, change the steering column, and make the stereo work right. I'm having so much fun!

My carb is the same, manual choke, got that hooked up fine! I have a throttle cable from a SPFI will it be the same length? are they interchangeable? I'm at work right now or I'd just go look. If not i'll have to figure out how to use the hitachi linkage without the cable barrel and without shortening the cable any more. I see the reason that the hitachi linkage works is the curve, on the weber linkage the cable just runs straight to the plate. You get alot more pull when the cable goes around that curve. Hmmm.

Thanks, I should have come here before I started cutting cable. back to the garage.

I searched the message board for info on setting up the throttle on the weber conversion but couldn't find what I needed. Here's what I did, I used the throttle cable bracket and linkage plate that came from Redline, I clipped the barrel off the end of the throtle cable leaving as much cable as possible and used a cable clamp for a bicycle derailler to clamp the cable to the plate it's clamped to the hole furthest from the bracket. works pretty well (I have some extra tension adjustment. The problem comes up when I push the throttle pedal to the floor, the secondary just barely opens, there isn't enough pull. Is this common? And most importantly how do fix it? I want to be able to use that secondary! I don't have everything on the car hooked up from my engine/trans mating drama so I haven't tried to start it yet, hopefully tomorrow. I'll be doing that instead of watching the Super Bowl and drinking beer. i'll probably have beer anyway.

Thanks again everyone, I loosened the pressure plate bolts, which allowed the clutch plate to float, pushed the engine and tranny together to with-in about a half inch and used the bolts to pull it the rest of the way. Yay! Just need to tighten the pressure plate and bolt everything else together. I'm so excited, when it runs it will be like a totally different car.

Thanks for all the info and support guys. I had been wondering if there was a way to lossen the pressure plate bolts and then re-tighten them, didn't think of going in through the starter hole. I'll try that tonight. off to work... Dave

I've actually done this several times, I've just never had this kind of trouble. The videos are cool, just hard to watch on the bleckberry

Thanks! I do have the trans jacked up, and thr dowel pins stayed in the trans. I haven't tried To rotate the crank while pushing. I did get it close enough at one point to start threading bolts But was afraid that wasn't the right way to go, in retrospect I should have kept going. I've lightly lubed the shaft and The splines on the clutch. I'm going to go try the crank rotation trick right now.

Ok, I blew a head gasket and since the car had 264000 miles I opted for a newer engine. Got the180000 mile engine out and got the periferals switched including new clutch and Weber. Now trying to reinstall engine and can't get the shaft on the tranny to go in the engine. I've had it back out twice to make the clutch plate was lined up properly and tried to pull the bottom Engine to trans studs so I could joggle the engine more, couldn't get them out. Help I need some advice I was really hopeing to get this thing on the road soon. Dave

Dave here, I live on 2nd and am in the process of building an 85 dual range, putting a new EA82 in then will convert to Weber and do a lift.