99obw

98 Legacy L is definately a 2.2, last year of the 2.2 in the Legacy was '99. IIRC if you look down at the block between the alternator and the power steering pump it should say EJ22 rather than EJ25.

Good advice Blitz, for info to help choose an oil in that viscosity range I find this thread helpful... http://theoildrop.server101.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=1;t=009433

1. FSM 2. Haynes 99. Chiltons

The activator may improve the performance but it isn't absolutely necessary. The ultra-gray or ultra-black will work fine, no need to special order a sealant. Anaerobic gasket maker Permatex #51531 or 51813 Anaerobic activator Permatex #24163

AFAIK Subaru dealers all use the gray RTV, more specifically threebond IIRC. You can use gray or black with no worry of a future failure. Just be sure to clean the surfaces of any old sealant, then wipe with acetone or MEK, apply a thin, even bead of RTV, put in place ONCE, then torque. I have never had the high quality gray or black RTV leak in any application when done properly. YMMV.

The front sensor is probably a four wire, which has the ground, the rear sensor is probably a three wire, which does not have the ground.

I have never seen a Subaru water pump from the factory with RTV on the gasket, nor have I seen a Subaru water pump leak at the metal gasket. I don't recommend using RTV on the water pump gasket. RTV works fine for the oil pump, but one must be careful. Perhaps the anerobic is a little more idiot proof, I have used both with good results.

I go to 100-125 lb-ft with blue loctite.

To me an SUV should have significant offroad capability or it should be called something else. I have had our outback in very mild offroad conditions and I was dissapointed. It's very good on slippery roads but that's about it. The manual tranny cars may be different. AFAIK the Tribeca will only be available with the auto. I find the implication in the ad that the Tribeca is the pinnacle of the SUV laughable at best. Them criticizing the average SUV today for being essentially a mall-cruiser is very ironic considering that is all that the Tribeca is. As a Jeep owner I'm a little offended that they would even consider their ugly creation in the same league, frankly it's not. I'm not attacking the Tribeca, though I don't like it, I'm just saying the marketing folks need to stop sniffing glue.

I welded a 2-3/8" 3/4"-drive socket to a piece of angle iron after breaking one of the sprockets. The hex on the sprocket is 60mm, and this home-brewed tool works great.

Not exactly, it must be a '95 EJ22 from a Legacy with an automatic transmission, and it's not purely bolt-in, there are a few minor caveats.

I have seen something similar to the big round gasket on fuel tanks where the sending unit/pump attaches. That doesn't mean that's where it's from, but I have certainly never seen one near the engine on a Subaru. Perhaps you should print out this thread and take it with you. These guys are dishonest and don't know what they are doing(working on cars that is, they certainly know how to steal). Good luck.

I am now the proud owner of an older VW turbo diesel, and I can say that the fuel economy is just phenominal. I'm not quite sure yet how to get the best mileage, but I do think 55 MPG is in my future(straight piped exhaust, different tranny). These things hold their value very well as fuel prices rise, I paid $3200 for a '92 with 158k miles on it, roughly double the book value. That fuel economy comes at a price though, 59 HP!! The newer TDI's are much more refined and powerful but not as reliable. My Jetta is one of the last made in Germany Jettas, and it's extremely rare. It does need some work though, I think I have a curse regarding head gaskets. If Subaru brings a diesel to market it will most likely not be available in NY anyway, so I would probably have to buy one on eBay like I did my VW. I won't be interested in the first couple of years of production at least, so that puts the purchase of a used Subaru diesel out at least 5 years for us. I anticipate our next vehicle purchase might be a Jeep Liberty diesel or a VW Passat Wagon 2.0 TDI. Biodiesel is just too easy to produce, and at $0.70 cents a gallon I see no reason to keep buying gassers. I haven't started producing biodiesel yet but I hope to fiddle around with it soon. I need to find a source for some of the chemicals required. I should say that for the time being at least I am very skeptical of hybrids considering the simplicity and fuel economy of diesels. I know a well cared for diesel can last 300k - 500k miles, but I'm not so sure of the hybrids yet. I am much more interested in Subaru working on diesel rather than hybrid technology, even if the enviro-weanies in NY won't let me buy one the easy way.

WJM, can you plot other parameters during these runs? Spark angle, injector pulse width, etc. Are you going to do some dyno runs with the new knock sensor?

I love the smell of automotive fluids, with the exception of antifreeze, that smell brings back bad memories of a horrific head gasket failure. Little trick for ya, when draining fluids and there is something underneath the drain that you want to keep clean, drape a plastic grocery bag over it and then throw it away when you are done. Of course the exhaust would have to be relatively cool for that to work, but you get the idea.

So it's possible to have such a dramatic reduction in power with the same amount of fuel delivered and not have unburnt fuel in the exhaust? I'm not being argumentative, just thinking outloud.

If the problem were ignition related wouldn't the air/fuel curves go rich during the reduced power portion of the HP curves?

I purge the system with the car up on ramps, with the bleed screw open, using one of these.... http://www.thetoolwarehouse.net/shop/LIS-22150.html That will get most of the air out, but I keep an eye on the overflow for a few thermal cycles.

I haven't had this code on our Subaru, but I had a P0455 and P0456 on my Jeep. It turned out to be a loose vacuum hose on the intake manifold. I would start by looking around the engine and charcoal canister for loose or leaking hoses. I don't know the exact location of things on your model so I can't be more specific. You might also test the purge solenoid.

Turning is rarely worth the trouble(at least in this part of the country), I would just replace the rotors and most likely install new pads. I am pretty happy with the cheap brake parts at Advance Auto. Make sure the wheels are always torqued evenly using a torque wrench. That's what usually warps rotors, if indeed the rotors are actually warped. Using AA's "Wearever Silver" parts, I just put new rear rotors, pads, and calipers, and new front pads using the old OEM rotors without turning. Not a hint of vibration and stops as good as the day it was new. One of the biggest keys to a good brake job is cleaning all of the parts with brake cleaner, and using brake lube, anti-squeal, and never-seize where appropriate. Periodic bleeding will contribute to the best possible pedal-feel as well.

The e-brake is a use-it-or-lose-it type device where salt is applied to the roads. I use mine every day and I insist that my wife does the same. If the brakes drag following application because of lack of use then replace the cables and use it every day. You'll really hate that rust if the hydraulic brakes fail and the e-brake doesn't work. In NY one will fail annual inspection if the e-brake is faulty. Using it is free. </soapbox>

Actually after re-reading the original post I think gbhrps is much closer than I was.

My experience has been that when brakes do this it can be cured by applying anti-squeel to the back of the pads.

To be honest, that is a very complex subject and I doubt I could do it justice. Search on BITOG. FWIW, I prefer to use oversized filters with good filtering and good quality construction. Amsoil, Mobil 1, Purolator.

I guess I should put my money where my mouth is so to speak and show you folks my last analysis. This is from the Jeep. 9000 miles on German Castrol 0w-30. Oil was black as night, but had a lot of life left in it. http://theoildrop.server101.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=3;t=002509#000000 Oil is generally considered used up when TBN reaches 1.0 and/or insolubles reach 0.6.