99obw

Based on what? What it looks like? That's as bad as changing it when the iffy lube boys tell you to. Analysis is the only way to know when oil needs to be changed. Short of that, some of the oil monitors in GM's and other makes do a pretty good job of predicting oil condition based on usage.

Keep in mind that 10w oils are generally only good to about 0°F. Your weather is colder than mine, and I use a 0w in the winter. 5w-40 would be a great oil for you if you like 40 weights, but there are no cheap 5w-40's that I know of. 20w-50 is too thick for most modern engines, with the exception of racing, extremely high ambient temperatures, and severely worn engines. For most people 5w-30 is the best weight in most engines. I run thick 30 weights and 40 weights because I drive 52 miles each way to work, so my average oil temps are higher, and I my Fe and Pb wear benefit from a relatively thicker oil. Most people drive shorter distances, so their oil may never reach the 100°C temp at which the oil is rated(30, 40, 50, etc), so a thinner oil offers better flow and lubrication. Thinner oils and oils with a higher viscosity index will also improve fuel economy.

Diesel oils are fabulous at keeping an engine clean internally, I'm using Mobil 1 T&SUV 5w-40 in both vehicles now, which is the consumer version of Delvac 1, Mobil's synthetic diesel oil. I have been using German Castrol Syntec 0w-30 in the winter, but if I can get up to Canada before winter I may start using Esso XD-3 Extra 0w-30 or 0w-40, both good synthetic diesel oils. For filters I like Amsoil, Hastings, Baldwin, Purolator, Napa Gold (Wix), and Mobil 1. Supertech will do in a pinch, and they're much better than Fram.

I replaced the compressor on our outback and never pulled a vacuum. I just added oil and R134 and it works better than ever. If your system was open to the air for very long you will most likely need to replace the receiver/dryer and pull a vacuum before refilling. FWIW opening the A/C system isn't necessary for engine removal. Just unbolt the compressor and bungee it to the left strut tower. Same goes for the power steering, unbolt it and bungee it to the right strut tower.

6 years and about 180k miles and the exhaust on our Outback is basically shot. I'm going to replace the midpipe and muffler for sure this summer, maybe both cats depending on how they look next time I'm under it. The only thing still going strong is the header. 1stsubaruparts is actually the cheapest for the midpipe and muffler, and I found an ebay store where I can get the cats for $150 each. As far as longevity goes it depends on so many variables it's impossible to predict. Our automatic is starting to get a little goofy, and other things on the car make me think that the next 100k miles are going to be a pain in my arse. When ANY car gets near 200k, struts, springs, and CV joints start getting very tired. The rest of the car should hold up pretty well.

Those are low coolant symptoms, I would start by making sure the coolant is topped off and all of the air is out of the cooling system.

A bass-blocker is most likely just an electrolytic capacitor wired in series to act as a DC (in this case low frequency) blocker. My 5-1/4" Kenwoods have them.

What is the oil change history? As expensive as this stuff is, it's probably the easiest way. Take a look at some of the engine pics, pretty remarkable. I have cleaned a bunch of my own stuff with it. As meticulous as I am with the Outback and synthetics, I found carbon granules (presumably from the ring pack) in the oil filter after I used it. I have seen amazing results on friend's neglected engines. Don't use quick flushes!!! They may break deposits loose rather than dissolve them slowly. The auto-rx process takes between 3500 and 7000 miles, it's very gentle. You might start by taking oil pressure readings with a mechanical guage if you have one to rule that out. If it's low the longer journey to the driver's side may be enough to cause that side to tick.

I would bet they are different. My friend's wife's '03 seems bigger in the back. The gen 1 model has two curved pads that sit against the plastic panels under the quarter glass, and two similar pads mounted on threaded adjusting rods. The rods are tightened with nuts to press the pads against the upper trim near the headliner. The main structure is tubular steel around the perimeter with a rigid wire cage in the middle. I cut and filed openings for the third strap of a car seat, I can assure you the OEM barriers are very well made, the only objectionable characteristic seems to be the dealer price.

I am partial to the Legacy platform, both plain 'ole and Outback. FWIW my experience has shown that good snows (preferably with studs) on all wheels makes a much bigger difference than AWD in most driving conditions in this part of the world. AFAIK We get around 80-90" a year.

Woohoo!!

We have the OEM Subaru cage, love it!! It's a pain to take in and out, so I leave it in all of the time. I paid $8 + $15 shipping on eBay for it.

I guess 422k miles is acceptable for the first set of head gaskets.

If nothing else the gasket was changed at least once, if not many times.

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My understanding of this code is that the ECU has adjusted the long-term fuel trim all the way to one of it's stops (rich or lean) in an attempt to correct a perceived mixture problem. The problem can be related to air supply, fuel supply, or sensors related to mixture(MAF, MAP, IAT, O2). It would be helpful to read the fuel trim using a scanner to see which direction the ECU has adjusted it. If it's adjusted rich (perceived lean condition) it might be caused by an air leak somewhere. When was the last time the fuel filter was changed? Oh, I see, no service history. Plugged fuel filter would cause a uniform fuel delivery problem. If the trim is set lean (perceived rich condition) I would suspect air filter or a faulty sensor(s) or injector(s). I would start with a fuel filter, air filter, run a couple tanks of Techron, and check for air and vacuum leaks. If that doesn't work I would start thinking about the sensors. I would try these inexpensive things first, as they are necessary regardless due to not having a service history. If that doesn't work you may need a tech that has a scanner.

You have a Phase I engine, which fails with an internal leak between the combustion chamber and the cooling jacket. The additive will do nothing to prevent or repair this kind of failure. The Phase II engine develops external leaks between the cooling jacket and the outside of the engine. The additive is quite effective at plugging these leaks.

My observation is that problems are still fairly common in the early gen 2 outbacks, but the coolant additive seems effective in sealing them up when caught early.

I feel I must clear something up. The scientific definition of evolution reads something like: "Evolution is a process that results in heritable changes in a population spread over many generations."* Based on this definition, the evolution debate is totally pointless, because it has been proven beyond a shadow of a doubt that this process occurs. Drug resistant viruses are a good example. There is a very good reason that the vast majority of scientists "believe in" evolution, i.e. the data is overwhelming. Of course dictionaries may have a different definition, but I take issue with their definitions of many things that they know little about. The notion that life formed spontaneously from some 'primordial goop' is more acurately referred to as abiogenesis. I will not argue abiogenesis because frankly I have no idea. I won't take sides on the evolution/creation debate, other than to say that if we were created, evolution was the mechanism. To me denying evolution in this day and age only tarnishes one's credibility. Thank you, carry on. *http://www.talkorigins.org/faqs/evolution-definition.html

http://www.talkorigins.org/

I don't know. Surely someone on this board knows the answer(s). You may want to post the question here or in new gen.

Being just a theory isn't so bad, ever heard of the Theory of Relativity?

Hopefully you are correct. I'm not sure on this, but my guess is that it has more to do with ECU differences rather than engine design differences between EGR and non-EGR. The ECU controls the engine based on driver input, sensor data, and certain assumptions. Using a non-EGR engine with an EGR ECU may lead to the wrong assumptions being used. Perhaps the ECU will change it's assumptions after finding that the EGR is malfunctioning. I am really splitting hairs here, just thought I would point out that there is a problem that might creep up. Like I said, if it doesn't ping I wouldn't worry about it. It would be interesting to see if this mismatch would cause more timing retard due to knock sensor stimulation.

In NY state at least one can't pass annual inspection with the MIL on. Disabling an EGR can cause problems with pinging, as the exhaust gas reduces combustion temperatures and reduces the likelyhood of pinging. I have seen firsthand engines that would ping like mad when the EGR wasn't working correctly. In general ECU's are tuned to operate with the hardware the car left the factory with, so removing or disabling stuff can of course goof things up. If you haven't experienced problems with pinging thusfar I wouldn't worry about it too much though.

Only '95 2.2's from a car with an AT will work (without MIL's and added complications that is). Even the guys at the junkyard will argue with you about this, but unfortunately this is the truth. These engines are relatively rare and of course old at this point. The charcoal canister and fuel pressure regulator vacuum lines have to be hooked up a little different from the original 2.2 (more like the 2.5), but other than that it's a clean swap.