WJM

rears are teins, fronts are D2.

but are the ea81 tire rod ends the correct diameter for the knuckles where they bolt on? the EA82 ones are not.

that still leaves me with a lack of thread...which was the first problem.

Well...I had to shorten them somehow.

Well, I could not find any RS rotors, so its got full 02 WRX front brakes with Carbotech XP10 race pads (400*F to 1600*F operating temp) Had to make a spacer for the axle/wheel bearing so the axle would actually hold the wheelbearing together like its supposed to.

There it is.

Tonight I installed the 04~05 STi hood scoop on my RX. I remember SubaruTex having one, but never remember if he really installed it... anyone else? Yes, I'll post pics of mine tomorrow.

185CC at 36 PSI, 100% duty cycle. 245CC at 45 PSI, 100% duty cycle.

SMC kit, with the M5 nozzle.

impreza lines replace the EA82 and XT6 ones out at the calipers... I need the hard lines at the spare tire well.

So I've got two problems... 1. My solid brake lines are in the way of where i want to mount and route some stuff...so I'd like to replace them with some flexible stainless steel lines... 2. I accidentally cut them. SOOOOOO........... where to get these things made?????

Dude, its FT4WD.

No Topkea this year...again...for 08, hope so. Going back with XT6 stock bars for now, 20mm/20mm. I do have a spare 27/29 that will go on the front when I get the endlinks made, and likely that will be the end of the swaybar'ness there. As far as my race rubber, I'll likely use 15x7 K1's with whats left of 225/50/15 V710s, then go with the 225/45/15 Tech RA's.

Yeah, ever since that one guy left D2, they've gone to ************. No sway bars at this point, they are going back on, and the spring rates are going to come down in the front.

EA82 until I run out of spare engines...theres one in the car now, and 8 more laying the the garage.

So, the guy I work with in the performance end of the dealership was tuning a customers car, a stock turbo WRX (stock engine as well, but with a TBE and lalala basic bolt ons)...but, had all the sound deadening taken out, so it weighs in at 2700~2800 lbs. We mostly tune on the street here, since the dealer is right next to the interstate... I took the RX out, and with the permission of the owner, we did 2 3rd gear pulls just for comparison's sake, starting at 3k rpm. Both pulls, I took the WRX by 1/2 car length from 3k to 5k, but from 5k on, the WRX takes me by about 2 car lengths pretty fast. I had the RX in hi range. So...Id say against a stock weight WRX, I'd have him, but Id have to shift to 4th. Water injection here I come!

i dont know...its offset outwards more than the otherside by about 3MM...and has no inner seal in it. The brake pad clips rub the rotor constantly...until I take them out.

So I started out with the normal XT6 stuff...modded the knuckles to fit impreza struts... However, the RF is making noise, and the LF has the wrong hub in it, so it makes terrible brake noises. So...thats gonna be about $300 or so to fix. Then, I'll still have nearly zero brake pad options, small rotors, and I'll toast the bearings on track in 1~2 sessions. So....today I ordered the 2005+ Legacy 5x100 Bolt in hub units. Both bearing/hub units, and the knuckles (subaru calls them axle housings). Total cost, $350 +/- some change. I'll be using the 99~01 2.5 RS brakes so I can still use 15" wheels, and with the car weighing in at 2600 lbs in finnished form, it should be plenty of stopping power with 300 hp....brake pads will be the Carbotech XP10. Now, for the Ebrake...I'm going to go source a complete rear knuckle/wheelbearing/brake assembly from a 99+ impreza and attempt to fit the internal drum ebrake to the rear. It really should not be that hard. If not...I'll just 240 it.

sounds like the disty is 180* off. yes it does happen even if the disty is not removed.

idk...never checked. I guess I'll check when the engine blows up again. lol I drove it about 40 miles today, went and got some legacy parts...it stopped ticking when I got on the interstate. Maybe it was happy to cruise some more.

So we've all had an EA82 with the HVLA tick... why? many reasons... gunk buildup, low oil pressure, cavitation of the oil, etc etc etc...the list goes on. But...when one has a NEW oil pump, all NEW seals thruout the engine, NEW heads, etc etc etc....and it STILLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLL TICKS!!!!!!!!!!!! What the heck? Well, I've found the answer. Vehicle Happiness Index, or VHI, is too low, causing the tick. Before I did the 5 lug conversion, I got the tick ONCE...that was after I let it sit for about a week. it ticked a little on start up, after I drove it a few minutes...it was gone. Now, with the 5 lug, in which there are several problems (both front bearings making noise, the D2's are blown and making horrid noises, still getting some light rubbing in the back)...the car has ticked ever since I got all of that installed. Otherwise, the oil pressure has not changed, 20psi at hot idle, 80 cold idle....60psi hot cruise, and well over 100 at cold cruise. Thats my only logical conclusion.

Yes it is...my most favorite racing circuit.

Well, the D2's are blown up. I found that out going over some speed bumps and the car just bouncing and the shocks making all kinds of fluid sounds. Also, I didnt roll it enough and cut the *************** outta the tire down to the chord, so I rolled it some more, and the RE070's are going to go on next week. I need to change the front springs to make the D2's last longer and get back within their range...and install the front/rear swaybars. I do have +6 caster now...and the ability to adjust from 0 to -4 camber... SO...much work this comming week.

Bump for pics.

Its quite the opposite. What people understand is that making the rear of the car very stiff (either with spring rates or sway bar/tire pressure) makes the car rotate. What they dont understand is that *THAT* very action makes the car unstable when someone who *KNOWS* how to drive a car, drives that car with the stiff rear. With suspension setup, you want to BALANCE the car such that it is VERY CONSISTANT in turn in, mid corner AND exit. In order to do that, you MUST setup the spring rate relation correctly... If the car has a perfect 50/50 weight balance, then you can do 500/500 springs and in theory, it'll be balanced pretty darn well. Most SUBARUs have a natual balance of ~60%F/40%R. So setting it up with 60% spring in the front, and 40% in the back balances the car. Now, with cornerbalancing the car to 50.0% cross weight, and doing a PROPER alignment, you will have a SUBARU that drives very UN-SUBARU like.