
WJM
Members-
Posts
5309 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Gallery
Store
Everything posted by WJM
-
What gaskets who uses? NAPA in their kits? BTW I found that NAPA is INCREDIBLY overpriced even at employee pricing over normal walk in for the other places. WJM used to work at a large NAPA store a few years ago for about 2.5 years and knows (well, used to ) the ins and outs of the systems. Anyhow...I just confirmed in the parts catalogs that the EJ22T gasket is a different part number than the EJ22E (N/A) head gasket. The NAPA head gaskets suck. I've used them. They suck. Badly.
-
I visit a few times a week...to make sure I dont miss a thread that was replied to and/or PM's....sometimes I dont get email notification. I do this on many forums, but I do not actively post or read any other part of the forum. I was bored today and hit up the new posts button to see whats happening today....and found this thread and 3 more of interest. Either way...I'm not one of those types to throw a part at a problem...I research it to death to make sure I'm going to fix the problem CORRECTLY the FIRST TIME. So those first 4+ hrs I spend on the P0031 code means everytime i get a P0031 it gets a new sensor. It has always fixed it and I've done that on at least 100 cars by now. Reason why I mentioned the P0171 is because it sometimes comes in with the P0031 at the same time...most techs that I come across start replacing ECU's, wiring harnesses, main fuse boxes....etc etc...because it cant be the sensor! Its the dumb F.I. system! *rolling eyes so far back into head they get stuck* Again, there was a car that I spend about two whole days on diagnosing a P0171 (System too lean). pressure testing, checking for intake leaks up-down-left-right-sideways-headassplosion, smoke testing the entire car and evap system, swapping out MAFs, MAPs, ECUs....then I swapped out the A/F sensor and the P0171 was all of a sudden on the car that A/F sensor was swapped to. So...every P0171 has gotten an A/F sensor. Again, over 100 cars on that one and no comebacks. I learned the hard way again on GM cars...P0172 (system too rich) with Zirconia O2 sensors (the normal type O2 sensor found on ALL rear locations for 2000+ SUBARUs, and the FRONT on everything up to 1999 EXCEPT Calif. MY99 SUBARUs)...it just means replace it and let it roll. Again, no come backs on that one...however the count is low, less than 10 cars, on seeing a P0172. Another factor is that I contribute when I see that people are being intelligent about the situation. If people are being complete idiots...well, no use for me there because 100% of the time they argue back that I am wrong and dont know what I'm talking about. No need to waste my time there. Anyhow...I'll /tanget now. lol And ya'll are welcome btw. Merry xmas!
-
When EJ engines blow a headgasket they DO NOT exhibit the signs like the EA82 does...aka no milkshake, no coolant burned in the exhaust. Rarely does it pressurize the coolant system like the EA82's did...however since the way the EJ's blow it allows combustion gases to enter the cooling system it does raise the pressure above normal, but it instantly turns the local coolant into steam rather instantaneously...so you have a loss of coolant that way as the steam works its way to the top and exits out the cap into the overflow...or air locks the system.
-
what thehell is going on here?
-
Could be a headgasket problem. If you've got a new rad cap and new SUBARU thermostat...better prepare to do headgaskets. The EJ22T's have the same headgasket construction as the EA82T. I've seen lots of EJ22T's need headgaskets once they reach this age. As for that coolant line...get some high pressure fuel line and make the line. Thats what I did with all my small coolant lines on the EA82. Works great.
-
Yes. Quit wasting time diagnosing it and replace the A/F sensor. Any P0031/P0171 type code relating to an A/F sensor heater, Lean/Rich code and the car seems to drive fine and the fuel trims are +/- 4% at idle...it means the A/F sensor needs to be replaced. Trust me, I've chased my way around for about 4+ hrs diagnosing it only to find that everything tests 'good' and 'acceptable' then only to see that under WOT (with a P0171) it reports full lean (1.3+ Lambda) when in fact the actual reading is 0.72 lambda. I replaced the A/F sensor as a 'it must be bad since its reporting like that' and whamo, fixed. The next time I got one in...I spent 2 mins getting pricing and labor, sold it to the customer and boom it was fixed. With the heater codes, I've never found any way to diagnose the A/F sensor bad *quickly* and with 100% certainty. With rich/lean codes on a stock car in good running condition I've NEVER been able to diagnose and find any factual data that means the A/F sensor is truly bad....other than road load conditions with an Innovate (or AEM or other high quality aftermarket standalone wideband sensor setup) backing me up double checking what the car is doing. Then, boom, A/F reports either full lean or full rich for no reason, wideband reports the car trying to go more rich or more lean, fuel trims pass 25% for too long and the code sets. In order to diagnose the A/F sensor the normal way, you'd have to be under hood at the A/F connector with a DVOM at the EXACT moment that it happens in order to have that info. Good luck with that...you'd need a road loading dyno and other expensive stuff to catch it. Anyhow... 22641AA03C is what you need. $90 dealer cost, $150 list. It would take me about 5 mins to install providing the threads dont self destruct on the way out.
-
You mean...right off the table once the soldering is fixed.
-
Good question. I dont know for sure...I would imagine it would take after the EA82 and use a 0-10v, but since its 1/2 pre-EJ technology and 1/2 EA technology...it could be a 0-5v.
-
Because the ECU operates on the 0-10v range...so does the MAF. if you install an EJ MAF, the ECU is confused and the car will not run. EJ MAF is 0-5v. I've done this before. It doesnt work. You cant just swap MAF of different types and diameters and expect it to work.
-
the problem is making the safc work with the 0-10v maf properly.
-
Again, we cannot use a SAFC. It only works with Karman, 0v to 5v MAP/MAF sensors and flapper door types. Those of us with 87~91 EA82T cars need a fuel solution for running bigger injectors on the stock ECU.
-
Which is what I figured but I didnt want to say anything until i got confirmation from you. thanks for the info!
-
No...the whole reason we cant get the SAFC to work correctly is that its a 10v MAF. I was reading where SubaruTex got it working somehow...but I never found details.
-
If I were to look into getting that...I'd just get the emanage ultimate.
-
when you go to a larger maf housing on the stock ECU and you dont have access to the intake calibration maps...it makes it nearly impossible to make it run correctly. It would be safe to say I've got more experience in that area than anyone else on here. However, it would be EXTREMELY safe to say that on the stock VF7, or the TD04L-13G (stock WRX turbo), I dont think we have to worry about maxing out the MAF below 20 psi boost levels. However, if someone is going more and bigger...you are going to need an emanage/MS+/standalone (AEM/Hydra) anyhow. You should not be messing with the UAFC/SAFC simple stuff. My idea was for when I do get an EA82T again, stock turbo w/ported wastegate with slightly built internals, EVO injectors and the other usual bolt ons. Like PoorMansImpreza said, the 87~91 EA82T stock ignition control is absolutely AWESOME. The tiny rump roast injectors is the problem. Fuel pump and injectors, and something to scale the fuel delivery back...voila, problem solved. The one issue that arises from that is that you are putting the ECU in a lower load cell by fooling the ECU into thinking its in a lower load state....so it automatically runs more timing in the lower load states. Solution: manually retard the disty. Done. Tune fueling w/innovate wideband. Its a good idea. It works with 10v MAFs. I'm going to try it when I get another EA82T car.
-
check valve in the squirters is a good idea. the ER27 oil pump from SUBARU literature states it is 20% increase in volume over the EA82, same with the waterpump. I have considered getting a new ER27 oil pump and attempt to fit it to an EA82...however, since i liquidated all my EA/ER parts and cars...it never happened.
-
I tried that. No change in back to back dyno runs with AFR logging on the EA82T engine. hte purpose of the device would be if you added 550cc injectors....
-
Looks like someone is taking a cheap shot at me....
-
http://www.14point7.com/UAFC/UAFC.htm !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!1 Discuss.