WJM

Agreed. Check for leaks as well. as for the formulations...no. So far as I know it, Cobb, Ecutek and the opensource community have not gone so far as to decode that part of the ecu and alter it to not use the sensor. Its only the 2000+ ECUs that can be reflashed. Some MY99 ECUs can be, but are finky when reflashed.

Speed Density=MAP. Yes, in 1999 calif and 2000+ Fed cars they started using the rear O2 more for fuel trimming. while its affects are not as large on the older cars, they still incorperated it. large meaning that w/out it there on the 2000+ cars, the ECU is just not happy at all. the older ones...it seems to be fine but something is amiss as the MPG drops pretty noticeably.

It still uses it as a fuel reference. I ran w/out a rear O2 for a month on my 96 Outback and MPG dropped from 30 to 22.

From the site: That is absolute BS when dealing with SUBARU. SUBARU's use the front O2 or AF sensor when doing the primary short term and long term fuel trimming while in closed loop. However, there is this long term and short term '#3' trimming which the ECU uses the rear most O2 sensor for. It uses it as a fail safe to make sure both sensors are seeing the same trimming. If the two readings are out of whack, it sets off codes...as you have a fuel control issue with either the front or rear or both sensor sets. IF that rear O2 sensor is not present or fooled in some way on the 2000+ cars (1999 for Calif. cars) it will severely mess up the long term and short term fueling. It will also severely affect your fuel mileage in negative ways.

I've actually had several OBD-1 Imprezas very UNwilling to clear with just a battery disconnect. I had to get out my Select Monitor 1 and clear it. However, on 100% of the OBD2 cars I've dealt with, the battery disconnect has cleared the codes...unless its one of those 'immediately upon fault recognition' codes like a MAF or MAP or something like that. It does reset the I/M tests...but thats another topic entirely.

I dont know how that warranty affects cats put on after the original 8/80 has expired.

its not a 'problem' but on average an N/A SUBARU will usually eat a set of cats and sensors once every 100k~140k miles. thats the average I've seen. However, I have seen MANY that go well past 200k before needing them. Some have issues before the 8yr/80,000 federal warranty runs out. But in most cases they usually go 100k~140k. thats the average I've seen. Areas with a higher SUBARU population a shop/dealer will see a larger volume of P0420 vehicles. Its not a problem...its just normal wear and tear.

Do a tailpipe sniffer test. If the values are within range then you have other problems...electrical ones with the sensors.

In this thread I will post the part number to each FSM, some are single books, others are in sets. 1st line will the the application. 2nd line will be the part number for said application. 3rd line will be the *current dealer list price and quantity in US national inventory available for purchase by the dealers to get them in your hands. *price and availability will be current ONLY for the time in which each part number is added. After that, YOU much double check the pricing and availability. I would HIGHLY recommend http://www.trademotion.com/partlocator/index.cfm?siteid=214725 for purchase of these items. So far, here is what I have: 1980 Engine/Body Manual MSA5T80111 $61.33 dealer list, 10 in USA 1982 Service Manual MSA5T82115 $64.67 dealer list, 6 in USA 1983 Service Manual MSA5T83116 $56.00 dealer list, 10 in USA 1984 Service Manual MSA5T84118 $51.33 dealer list, 36 in USA

Ok, confirmed that the 04 books done have it either. BUT...my Oct 2001 has them back to 1980. Heres the list: MSA5T80111, 1980 Engine/Body Manual $61.33 dealer list, 10 in USA MSA5T82115, 1982 Service Manual $64.67 dealer list, 6 in USA MSA5T83116, 1983 Service Manual $56.00 dealer list, 10 in USA MSA5T84118, 1984 Service Manual $51.33 dealer list, 36 in USA

Crap, my parts dept has the 05 and 06 books...each too new. Good thing I've got the older ones at home.

Sometime in 2005 they dropped the older (1980 to 1990) FSM part number listings from the Dealer Parts Price books. You can still order the FSMs and MicroFish (sp?) from SUBARU all the way back into the 70's. I have two older DPPBs. PM me for the part numbers and pricing. PS: Any good parts person would have a stack of older DPPBs and would be more than happy to get you the FSMs, OR call the Parts Pic guys to get the numbers.

Nice. Looks like someone purchased a dealership that was going out of biz.

Hm. Funny how after I completely disabled the EGR on the RX it was getting 37mpg.

Pretty much any 1989~2007 subaru seat will interchange...Legacy, impreza, forester, baja. I have EVO VIII seats in my 96 Outback, they are sitting on WRX adapters. I had 2002 WRX seats in it, they sat up too much. Before that I had 1999~2001 RS seats that worked fine but were not supportive enough for me. Tribeca, Leone/Loyale, XT, justy...not so much.

What code is the ECU telling you?

^^Again, I realize the points you are hitting on. I'm not talking about a drastic change in sizing, I'm talking about a 5% to 25% range...whatever ends up as optimal. Also, taking the pump and matching it to the new demands of the system to keep the pressure optimal and the volume appropriate. Deleting the HVLA's serves two purposes. 1. Provides adjustable valve clearance for aftermarket cams. 2. Decrease load on the oiling system. The 1st reason has 95% of the weight for doing a custom piece. The 2nd reason is a 'bonus' as the pressure/volume can now be going more towards the mains/rods/turbo/cams. Its not like I'm just going to take a 3/8ths drill bit to the feeds ya know... Also the other point that I was attempting to convey with the OP is that under sustained high RPM/competition there seems to not be enough volume/pressure to the rods. Increasing the supply (volume and pressure) to the crank also increases the supply to the rods as the rods are fed thru the crank.

thats why you'd increase the PUMP volume.

What gaskets were used? If the engine was overheated severely before the headgaskets were finally replaced then you have a cracked coolant jacket...that will make it seem like the headgaskets are leaking still. Also...if it IS coolant out of the exhaust, then you have other major problems that 99% of the time have NOTHING to do with the headgaskets. Mine has oil smoke on start up all the time...but the rings are going and the cylinders have been cooked from overheating....and one jacket is cracked. I still drive it but I watch the coolant temps carefully and refill the coolant before driving.

The shim system was considered...however it would increase costs. The cost effective way is to stick with stock heads and systems...but replace the HVLA's with something solid and adjustable.

Oil cooler is part of the plan. It will be an Air-Oil unit from an EVO-8, USDM. The HVLA-Delete (hvlad) is still in the works...however, the basic prototype design is taking a stock hvla, gutting it and basically making an adjustable piece that goes from the follower to the base. It will be very difficult to adjust...which is why you would want to do it with the engine OUT of the car....even then it wont be easy. I am working on a second prototype that will allow easier adjustment...however, I have still not come up with a cost effective solution for easy adjustment WITH easy tightening...as both prototypes are difficult to tighten back down. The non cost effective solution is to have some heads made out of a block of AL on a CnC machine. It will mirror the USDM Phase 2 SOHC EJ251/EJ253 heads, but with all the requirements needed to bolt to an EA82 and function properly. This idea is proving MOST difficult. The other non cost effective solution is to mirror the Phase 1 EJ25D 1996MY DOHC heads for EA82...again, a block of AL CnC machined. This design is much easier to work with...however, it makes for more moving parts, a larger oiling system requirement, more parts, less engine bay space, more parts, and less reliability. Did I mention more parts? So...the hvlad's are in motion. Oh, the ports in the head for the hvla's will be blocked off we well.

Those are my thoughts as well...however, there are small flaws with both engines in regards to constant competition use and/or sustained high RPM use. Which is why I want to do it carefully as well as upgrading the pump to match the new volume requirements. My modified oiling system includes the deletion of the HVLA's with solid adjustable units.

Serious discussion only. Keep it on topic. So I was looking over the EJ oiling diagrams, I've got an EJ205 and EJ257 here that I'm working on for my own projects....looking at oiling system modifications to solve a lack of volume issue for long term track use and sustained high RPM operation. Then I was curious to see what changes were made from the EA82 to the EJ engines. Well...other than the addition of 2 more main crankshaft journals....NOTHING has changed!!!!!!! The supply method for the mains and rods are identical. There are a select few individuals that are modifying the EJ blocks to feed the mains from BOTH sides, effectively doubling the volume supplied to each main, as well as doing some port work on the system making it more efficient...also using the 12mm oil pump, or a modified 10mm pump. (10mm is stock for EJ22T/EJ205/EJ25D/EJ255/EJ257...12mm is for Dual AVCS EJ engines, EG33D...9mm is found on all the N/A EJ22x/EJ25x engines) So far this modification has drasticly improved bearing life during HEAVY track use and well beyond the factory redline of 7000 RPM. So...heres what I am theorizing... Since the EA82 doesnt have a second main galley on the other block half like the EJ engines...simply increase the size of the feeds to increase the volume. In turn, make a larger pump rotor set to flow the increased volume needed, as well as doing some port work and raising the relief bypass valve a few PSI. Correct me if I'm wrong, but increasing the diameter of the feeds from the galley will increase the volume of oil supplied. With more volume and matched pressure we should not have any more spun rod bearings (providing that the sump is not starved). Discuss.

ebay has kits. Otherwise, you have to buy each part individually from SUBARU.

Thats what I said. The car that showed a problem was overheated until it would not run anymore. It had a grand canyon crack down the jacket and that cylinder pressurized the cooling system. It was obvious to see where the combustion was going once the head came off.