WJM

SUBARU doesnt tell us too much about it. Just that it must be working and what data points to look at when its working or not working. Pretty much the same about everything else. If SUBARU would go into more technical details about how things ACTUALLY worked when they trained the techs then we wouldnt look like idiots when something like this comes into the dealer. Sadly, if one wants to know, one must dig deeper into aftermarket documentation and play with a vehicle on your own time in order to find out how the cars really tick. There's a lot of aftermarket resources that actually explain things better than subaru ever wants us "factory trained" techs to know. But, be careful about what you read, some of it is plain wrong. From what I have discovered about "idle switch" When "on": 1. Smooths the transition from open throttle to fully closed throttle (in conjunction with the neutral position and clutch switch on vehicles so equipped) 2. Engagement of idle logic control. 3. Fueling and Timing changes occur (unknown exacting details) 4. Transmission logic changes (unknown exacting details) and others When "off": 1. Smooths the transmission from closed throttle to open throttle (in conjunction with the neutral position and clutch switch on vehicles so equipped) and others Under both conditions the vehicle should be in closed loop. However, when on throttle, there are several condition levels which determine open or closed loop. Idle is almost always closed loop MAF+TPS control. When O2 sensor readings are stabilized, MAF+TPS+O2 closed loop occur as long as the conditions are met. Single and double wire O2 sensors may or may not be active because they have to be at operating temp. Idle conditions may not be enough temperature to have it at operational temp. With heated O2 sensors, the O2 sensor is part of the closed loop control at idle once it is up to temp.

There's no telling what kind of logic there is behind the idle switch. Even on the newer cars there's nothing thats 100% positive what all it does. However, when its not working, the ECU doesnt like it and it drives badly. Your converter is probably not up to par either.

I would not pay $1300 for an EJ25# turbo block to put in place of an EJ25D block. You can buy a COMPLETE EJ25D engine assembly for that price. Go check out ebay.

2006 and up EJ255's have 8.4:1 compression. The stock EJ25D in 1996 had 9.5:1 and 1997~1999 was 9.7:1. Like Numbchux said, you can flip it to some WRX/STi guy for current market value. If its new you can flip it for anywhere in the $800 to $2000 depending on local market and how you advertise it. If its used and known good, $300~$1200. If its used and unknown, $0~$500. Again, it all depends on your local market, how you market/advertise it and the condition its really in.

If you went that far and the engine didnt lock up, I'd say something is wrong with your oil pressure indication system.

It will work. You'll be a little down on power but it'll get you down the road. Use the 11044AA610 gaskets. Do NOT use the 642/670/770 gaskets as the pistons will hit the cylinder head at TDC. Treat everything as if you were putting a stock EJ25D block back in and you'll be fine....aka it'll just be a basic short block assembly swap.

Finally, some sense.

in that case, I'd have to agree.

At least jiffy spooge wont get to it anymore.

Yeah you gotta take the battery out to see it fully. Even then its hard to get to.

Shows what you know. Once the updated 11044AA610 gasket is installed, it is just as reliable as any other EJ engine out there. Mine has 319,427 miles on it with out fail. ALL original internals, but with the new gasket put on at 200,2xx miles. Not related one bit. The EJ25D had several inferior gaskets for it until subaru pulled out all the stops and used a real deal multi layer metal gasket same as found on the newer EJ20# turbo engines and EJ257/EJ255. The EA82 does not have a headgasket problem. Follow the FSM and it will last as designed under its intended operating conditions, just like any other engine.

I reliably put down 165hp/225tq (25% loss that would be about 205hp/280tq at the crank) to all 4 wheels for a long time and that engine started out with 166k miles on it and finally died when some idiot ran it out of coolant. I put about 40k miles on it. JWX put who knows how many miles on it. Then I got it back again and put some more miles on it. Then JWX gave it away to an idiot. It saw track days (road course), 100's of autox runs, lots of illegal street racing and many more highway pulls that resulted in the speedo needle being well past the last indicated speed, all within my time. I dont know what all JWX and idiot did with it, but it lasted fine until the idiot ran it out of coolant.

Also: SOA868V9241 You can get it cheaper online. http://www.subaruparts.com/cart/?pn=SOA868V9241 Also try: http://www.trademotion.com/partlocator/index.cfm?siteid=214725

If you dont have access to a transmission flush machine (which typically exchanges 12qts at a time) then I would do a drain and fill with 4qts every 15k miles and just keep that going until the end. Change the filter every 60k at a minimum. If you do have access to a transmission flush machine, just flush it with 12qts every 30k miles and change the filter at 60k at least. I would do it every 30k if you have an extra $35.

11tybillionth and one time now. Any new information or updates?

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Magnuson%E2%80%93Moss_Warranty_Act Basically, if a manufacture REQUIRES it and nothing else, they are to provide it to you free of charge. If not, they are violating federal law. SUBARU is doing that with the 2011 turbo cars and N/A Forester that *REQUIRE* the subaru synthetic oil and nothing else or the warranty is void. I'm surprised no one has sued yet.

Nothing for N/A. Make your own stuff. For the EA82T there is stuff if you look in the right places. TWE makes headers and downpipes. I reliably put down 165hp/225tq (25% loss that would be about 205hp/280tq at the crank) to all 4 wheels for a long time and that engine started out with 166k miles on it and finally died when some idiot ran it out of coolant. I put about 40k miles on it. JWX put who knows how many miles on it. Then I got it back again and put some more miles on it. Then JWX gave it away to an idiot. It saw track days (road course), 100's of autox runs, lots of illegal street racing and many more highway pulls that resulted in the speedo needle being well past the last indicated speed, all within my time. I dont know what all JWX and idiot did with it, but it lasted fine until the idiot ran it out of coolant. These *ARE* reliable engines. Period. Anyone who says otherwise is talking with unfounded, no back up, no facts non-sense.

Stock if the car is stock. With proper intake/exhaust/intercooler, the stock VF7 is at the end of its efficiency at 15psi. You can run it to 18+ (I have seen 25 to 30 a few times) but it does nothing more than make rallycar sounds and cause detonation.

2009 Legacy and Outback with the 4 and 5 speed automatic REQUIRE the SUBARU ATF-HP fluid. There are no substitutes available on the market at this time. The Castrol Multi-ATF does not meet the requirements as of MY2007 and was phased out of the service manual by 2008 entirely. (Transmax-J alternative). ATF-HP is synthetic. Your ATF filter is located behind the battery and headlamp assembly in the fender well. This started in 2005/2006 on all Legacy platform vehicles including Tribeca. Eventho SUBARU states its a lifetime filter, I have seen the long term effects of not changing it. SUBARU also states the fluid is lifetime is you read the service and owners manual maintenance intervals. This is VERY untrue as well. The ATF should be completely exchanged every 30,000 miles at the bare minimum. The filter should be changed during that service as well, or at least every 60,000 miles. With out changing the fluid, you will start getting problems around 50k miles and by 100k, you'll need a new transmission. With out changing the filter, when you get to 90k~120k miles, you will start having problems as the filter becomes clogged with the materials that the transmissions sheds during its life. If you change the fluid and filter, the transmission will last and operate flawlessly to at least the 300,000~320,000 mile mark. Unfortunately, I have never seen one in person last longer w/out having to be taken apart for some kind of repair.

Stock headgasket is designed for stock, .25mm and .50mm over.

Parts depends on what engine that is...SPFI/MPFI/CARB...and year. But, you stated "93 Loyale" so they should be... RH piston, EACH: 12013AA040 $69.73 (2 needed) None in country, part is still active. 3 week wait time probably. Depends on JAPAN's situation on shipping and if they are in a warehouse thats cracked/flooded/nuclear contamination. LH piston, EACH: 12018AA040 $58.98 (2 needed) 5 in country, immediate availability. Piston Ring Set 0.25mm OS: 12033AA010 $248.62 (1 needed) 2 in country, immediate availability. Or you could source aftermarket stock replacements that are 0.25mm OS. For a stock car and put together right, aftermarket tends to work fine for the average customer.

Technically the sleeves are not replaceable...unless you go aftermarket and spend WAY too much money. Even then in most cases the sleeves end up sinking into the block after several heat cycles and you get a blown headgasket again and have to re-deck the block to match the sleeve. Most of those cases you cant deck the block anymore because its been decked too much already. WJM has been there and seen it all on sleeving subaru blocks. To get it done right costs more than your average sleeve job. I would do a full teardown and rebuild and go 0.25 over on the cylinders. If they have not been oversized already you have two overbores you can do; .25mm and .50mm. There'd have to be more serious damage than that to need to go .5mm over. I've seen worse clean up with a .25mm bore.

I'd do all four cylinders while you are at it. It'll be like new after that. I'm with grossgary on the metal/FOD from honing...not sure on how to prevent that from getting into the crank/rod bearings. I was pretty careful on one engine I did but the rod bearings failed after 2 miles. The same engine also had massive oil consumption so it may have been oil starved before hand anyhow. :shrug: One engine I didnt take the pistons out, just went to BDC on each one, 3-stoned it and its a STRONG engine that burns nothing, doesnt smoke, no noise.

Take it from my loss: you absolutely NEED to do a hone and new rings. The hone can be a quick 3-stone or such just to get the surface prepped for new rings. I few times I got away w/out hone and/or rings but several times it has come back to bite me hard.

With the 642 gasket, indeed not. Just do it. The engine will turn over freely by hand, but when you start it up it sounds like horrible multiple rod knock. After 10 seconds of running, there was no damage to be found, but you could see on the piston and head where there was contact. I took that engine back out and put 610's in it and it was fine after that. They don't. The 610 is stock replacement for the 1996~1999 DOHC EJ25D. The 642 is stock for the 2004~2006 EJ257, 2004~2005 EJ255 in the Forester/Legacy/Outback turbo and the 2004~2006 EJ255 in the Baja turbo. In 2006, all EJ255 (except BAJA) went to "improved cooling" and the part number changed to a 670 (and later 770) as the coolant passages changed. Same for 2007 and up STi. DO NOT use the 670/770 gasket in place of the 610/642/633 gasket and vice versa as it will result in overheating. They probably dont. Close enough.