WJM

1.05mm thickness for the 642 gaskets. 1.70mm thickness for the 610 gaskets. I would say that since the 97~99 DOHC heads with a 642 gasket do not work (piston hits the head) and the 610 gasket enables it to work (since its the stock replacement)...that the SOHC heads with the 610 would work. The combustion chamber CC: I think the SOHC has a little more since the shape is different than the 97~99 DOHC heads. The pistons on the SOHC phase 2 do not come out of the block. The pistons on the DOHC phase 1 97~99 do come out of the block. Both DOHC and SOHC, IIRC, have the similar valve seating positions but at slightly different angles. I dont think there is a significant enough change in timing/lift/duration to cause a concern. And most of all, I would *NEVER* use a cometic MLM gasket in place of a SUBARU MLM gasket. I would use the cometic MLM in place of a composite/non-metal type gasket.

Not really. I've never tried it. I give it a 90% chance of success.

Instrumental TRANCE/Techno. Edit: A good sign that some things have not changed.

No need to split the block for pistons. 11044AA610 gaskets and it'll work like I said in your other thread. SOHC and DOHC valves on EJ25 engines are different length so they dont interchange.

11044AA610 gaskets and it'll work.

Exactly what grossgary said...the people that own these cars want everything for nothing. You and I and maybe a few others are the only "fools" willing to pay real honest money for something that actually works for these things.

YES. Because they fitted them to both before I organized that GROUP BUY. Mike at FOLGER SUBARU in CHARLOTTE, NORTH CAROLINA still has several headers and downpipes IN STOCK and READY TO SHIP. http://www.trademotion.com/partlocator/index.cfm?siteid=214725

The front clip. Toe out in the back of an RX is a BAD idea and end with a tree. I traded the engine for a GL-10 sedan in white and cut/cut and welded on a front clip to fix the RX.

I'm still looking for it. I've got a bunch of hard drives laying around that still have stuff on them.

Last time I saw a supertech filter, it was not a fram structure. Looked like a WIX to me.

Whatever the logic is behind parts and service codes, I do not know it.

FBB25 in the tech ref book. FB25 stamped on the block. EJ25B in the parts catalog.

It takes a lot longer on stock size tires, 2 worn and 2 not as worn in order to destroy things.

Here's a good one: 2008 Legacy 2.5i sedan, 5MT. Customer needed 2 tires as the fronts were TOAST from not rotating. Stock size is 205/50/17. The tire shop installed two new 215/45/17's on the front. 600 miles later the center diff EXPLODED out of the bottom of the transfer case while driving down the interstate. Needless to say, someone was buying an entire transmission. http://www.miata.net/garage/tirecalc.html ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ Is accurate. 25.1 inch diameter is stock for that vehicle, what was installed was 24.6 inch diameter. 1/2 inch of difference was all it took and BOOM.

Sorry to bust your bubble, but they will total it. Back about 10 years ago at my dealer there was an XT6 that was backed into by a flat bed, needed a fender, hood, inner apron...estimate was ~$1,800. They totaled it. So yours being close to $3k, no brainer, totaled. So if you dont want to lose the car or have the titled branded, you will need to fix it out of pocket. I've been there and done that. Not to mention a lot of the body parts for that car is no longer stocked in the USA and there will be a month+ wait to get parts from JAPAN if they are will available there. Not lilkely tho...

No, you need the OBX front LSD.

Where and when did I say that? I purchased the OBX unit for $358 shipped but never installed it. A front helical LSD for a vehicle used primarily on PAVEMENT would be the best improvement. Installing a VLSD center would be worthless on the same application. 5MT WRX's are junk when trying to drive spirited. The RX was just a tad worse due to absolutely no LSD there. Doing BOTH the front and center would yield awesome results. HOWEVER, if you have one or both: 1. Too much power. 2. No enough tire/suspension grip. A front LSD isnt going to do you much good and a center LSD will do you less than what a front LSD will do. Again, doing both solves a lot of problems. Of course, proper tire/suspension grip AND proper power level (you can add more with other items corrected) + LSD diffs solves the problem completely.

JWX has a rotary engine RX

This, 99.9% of the time.

Its a dummy gauge. It goes to the middle and stays there unless you are seriously overheating the engine.

I've got one of those books...awesome set of parts to have for a street car.

EA82T. 37mpg with correct modifications.

If you have the EJ25 heads, use those. Otherwise, mod the headgasket. You will see an increase in compression ratio. Not really much power gain otherwise. Lots of people have done that swap before. Otherwise to the otherwise...everything bolts on.

You cant put the Phase 2 crank in a Phase 1 block w/out machine work. Use the 1996~1998.0 EJ25D crank, its phase 1 so it drops in w/out issue. 1998 was a changeover year, most 1998.5 and most all of the 1999 EJ25D's were Phase 2 with the #5 location thrust bearing. All EJ251/252/253's are Phase 2 with #5 location. The BEST thing to do is just put some 8.2:1 OTS (Off The Shelf) drop in CP pistons, stock STI rods in your RS engine with a bolt on turbo kit and a Hal-Tec, Hydra or AEM standalone EMS. Injectors, fuel pump, 3bar MAP sensor and you'll be good to go. Next, you'll need a transmission because you'll break it at about 400~500tq unless you abuse it and you've probably broken it already with the N/A engine. I'm not sure, so you'd have to check for yourself, the Phase 1 EJ25D crank may have different journal sizing for the rods. If thats the case, you'll need a different rod option or machine the block for #5 location. Do make sure to use the 11044AA642 headgaskets.

No. Xise talked of putting an EJ25# crank into an EJ22#. That changes the stroke from 75mm to 79mm. Bore stays at 96.9mm thus increasing the displacement. Heads to not affect static displacement. They do affect VE/dynamic displacement due to flow rates. The 2.35 isnt that great (compared to an OTS EJ255/EJ257) unless you are stuck in some kind of weirdo rules/classing that you cant use anything other than an EJ22# block. If you are going to bore/stroke something, get the EJ25# and the 2.8L kit and keep it below 7100rpm.