NWSubie

I replaced the fob battery the cars battery was disconected though for a short time I was wondering if it reset the cars key less entery system. I had the key turned to the "on position the dash lights came on and the ignition says "on" and I dont see a light on my key fob its just the two lock/unlock buttons.

I recently bought my outback and I'm going through seeing what all works when I was at he guys house buying the car the key less doors worked granted I had to stand pretty close to the car but it still worked I assumed the battery was old so I swapped it out now its not working at all. I tested the new battery was 12v so its good. I found the original parer showing how to reset the key less fob. It said to open the drivers door turn key to "on" position and hold the program button for 15 seconds then the doors should lock/unlock three times then I press the lock button on the key fob and release the program button and it should all be rest. Problem is when holding the program button it never does its lock/unlock three times thing, am i missing a step or possibly a fuse somewhere? Thanks 98 Impreza Outback sport wagon

Do you think some water got into the plug wires? where the plug wires connect to the spark plugs i had my 98 hezitating right after wahsing the motor and I had water in my plug wires so I blew em out with air and it ran fine. I guess if it does it when its dry then thats not the case.

Well I ended up buying a different 98 Impreza outback sport yesterday with 130k on it and it had just had all its tune up done like timing and water pump. seems to drive well and is a lot more acceleration than what i am used to lol I just hope with a little tlc she makes it to 200k there where a few small issues that ill need to get fixed like the drivers window is not riding in its track perfectly so it leans slightly forward causing it to to allign up with the door seal correctly. hopefully thats not to hard to fix. oh and the master control for the windows has some buttons that are kinda sticky so ill need to replace that eventually.

Yeah Im debating on waiting for another one, this one looks great but I just get nervous spending that much on a wreaked one. I have been lookin for one of these for a few years and hope one comes along soon my gl is starting to burn oil pretty bad haha. It seems everyone of these cars sell for alot in this area theres a 99 for 8k on craigs list right now. It does only have 78k on it but its still personally I think thats way to much.

So today I went and test drove a 98 impreza outback sport it has 110k on it and seemed to drive very nice. The catch is it has a branded title, it was in a "low speed collision" it was repaired by a small shop in portland OR and hd its passenger fender and door replaced. They want $4400 for it. Is this car still worth that? I really need a dependable car but I dont wanna get ripped off. any thoughts on what I should do? Thanks.

Sorry to hear of your luck I hope you can find the gremlin soon so you can get to cruising again. My 80 wagon has had many electrical problems since I bought it. Such as its headlights just shut off, I thought it was a fuse but it was not so in the end I had to run a whole new power wire to a new (ATC) fuse box then to the switch. I now have my stereo and Head lights running off new wiring. I just think that the wires are just getting old because I have found quite a lot of wires that when I went to replace the stock connecters had several inches of green corrosion going up the wire. (on the inside) I assume that cant be good for things to operate. Also check your grounds a bad ground can make some odd things happen. Good Luck

Very cool car! did you do the paint yourself? And yeah I also had a laugh when I read that a bear broke into your car kinda odd story lol at least around where I live anyways.

Mine were doing that to me also so I just swaped them out for the rear disc brakes and im glad I did, stopping is amazing now. I have a set of drums off of my 80 wagon I believe they are in good shape.

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So I am having trouble keeping my clutch cable "smooth" when I engage the clutch it is stiff to depress. I swapped the motor and trans from my buddies 86 hatch about a year ago and he had had issues with keeping the cable tight so had put three large nuts on it as spacers. I'm thinking this is causing my problem with stiff clutch pedal. I went to the local napa to see how much a new cable would be and the guy said there was two sizes a 36" cable and a 33" cable what is the right one? I'm running a 1.8 with webber and a 4 speed transmission.

My 87 ea82 was having stalling issues ended up finding a small crack/hole in my drivers side oil breather line. I replaced it and all my vac lines and shes never done it again.

Congrats on the subie im sure in time you can get her running well these old beat are fun to work on and we have so much valuable info on the forums! I have been building my 80 wagon for 2 years its been a fun hobby for me. Check all your vac lines when you do a tune up and check tohe timing and ditsy. You should correct the rough iddle. Good luck and welcome to our fam.

I have driven sube101's ej wagon and its a blast the 2.2 swap is way worth it. I have been thinking about doing now but I just gotta gather the parts and $. And moving out of my apartment so I can have a shop to do it in would help alot also haha.

Yeah I sure, did funny thing is that when the car first broke down I pulled every fuse and checked them all. I did not see it burnt out then. so after a week of trying diffrent things I brought it to my brother who was in the local High school auto program. They poked around and my brother pulled the fuses again and found #5 burt out. Haha I guess the little grimlin in the old girl decided it wanted to mess with me. oh well life goes on and so does my subie! Any I deas as to why my stereo got damaged? could the ignition wire cause a short and destroy the stereo through the rem wire? Im bummed cause the deck was not even a year old now it just make a buzzing sound for a few seconds and thats it.

So I wanted to say that my 87 has been back on the road now for a few weeks and the reason she broke down was #5 fuse "hazzard,clock,horn" had blown. After checking the All Data I found that the fuse also controls the ecu, horn and the light at the very rear dome light. I replaced the fuse and all has been well I put about 600 miles on it and have had no issues. So I guess I just wanted to say this for anyone who may have a strange issue like this. Im wonering if my stereo had caused the issue cause it compleatly died right after I swaped the fuse. I kinda doubt it cause my stereo was connected to its whole own wire ran right to the battery. I removed it and and just using my phone as my stereo now lol.

You may want to take your door panels off and see if the linkages that connect to your door handle have slack or to much play in them causing them to not allow the latch to completely disengage. I find it odd that both doors would do this but I guess it happens. In my 80 wagon my rear passenger door would not open from the out side for the last two years I took my door panel off and found out that there is a small plastic piece right at the latch that allows for adjustment. I was able to turn it some and now my door open from the outside very nicely. Maybe to many years of people slamming your doors have loosened up the linkages in your car. I always find it strange when friends ride in my car and since its old they feel the need to slam my doors I am thinking I may put a jar in it and may my Friends put a dollar in it every time they slam it haha! Good luck should be an easy fix. Oh and if you remove your door panels be gentle not to break the little plastic clips that hold it on your may get raddling if you do later. And you may want to take oil up the linkages while the panel is off its a good time to do it.

Ill remember that for next time! I am starting to think that castle nut had been alittle lose for sometime cause there was vibration while driving and alot of wear on the tie rod end probably why the threads and nut were so damaged. Oh well live and learn a just another tribute to the little beast in new parts haha my new tie rod end should be here monday and ill get her back on the road. Thanks guys and she is lookin forward to WCSS in august.

So I must be "lucky" because in one week both my subies decided to break down. One is off at a local shop with electrical issues (i have little patience with that). And my 80 decided it wanted a brwak by having its front wheel bearing start grinding I was suposed to be driving it to the coast for some fishing this weekend. : ( anyways it always seems that when one thing gets fixed another thing imediatly breaks.... This time I replaced my wheel bearing only to find that the castle nut on my passenger outer tie rod end was striped out. I could not tighten or losen the thing. With a buddys help we got it off but we wreaked the threads on the tie rod. I guess she really didnt want to go fishing. Haha. So im wondering what is the best method/trick of getting the castle nut off on the tie rods? I do 90% of my work in an apartment parking space btw so I generally dont get accsess to air tools. Also is there any particular brands of replacment tie rod ends that are recomended in plannin on just replacing borh of them. Ebay seems to vary widly in price I want to avoid the garbage ones.

Well I went to install my new plugs and wires today only to find that the plug wire going from the coil to the ditsy was to short :-\ Im debating on just building a braket to move the coil a bit closer so the wire will reach. Is there any issues that I may have by doing this? (aside from looks) I Orderd NGK pt# RC-FE27 Stk # 9350 anyone know if this was the right one for an 1980 EA81 she is lifted 4"

You should check all vaccume lines having any leak will definetly cause issues. And the webber is a nice upgrade did it to my 80 wagon running an 86 ea81 motor I liked not hving the numorous vac lines that the hitachi had. You probably can get one off the forum here but most likley you will have to rejet it for your alltitude. I had vac leaks mess with me before and it was very annoying. Im sure you will get her purring before to long!

When I bought my 80 wagon I had head light and dash light issues as well. I fixed the head light issue by running a full new power wire to the head lights and running that through an aftermarket fuse box. (got a water tight one for $15 at napa) Then just remove your switch and connect the switches power wire the the new fuse box. Now you dont have to worry about old wiring dimming your lights. Mine are plenty bright now and I have had no issues a year latter. Plus with the new fuse box you have the option to use it for other things ex. Cb (for the wheelers) or a stereo. Also when I installed the fuse box instead of running multiple wires to the battery I made a clean looking set up by taking some heavy gauge amp wire and spicing all 6 wires (i have a 6 plug fuse box) to that one wire and heat shinking the connection thuss only having one wire to connect to my battery. I can post a pic of my set up if you want. Otherwise you probably have some dirrty conections on you stock wiring you should check your plugs and grounds and clean them up.

I ended up just buying the ngk plugs that carquest had and were for the car. Im sure they will be fine I was just unsure what the difference between the resistor vs non resistor plugs were. New ngk wires are shipping in tuesday.

I have a 1980 EA81 wagon and I just orederd a set of NGK plug wires for her. But upon searching for NGK plugs im unsure of what are the best for it. Im running MSD coil and want to get the most out of my system. Some are Resistor style and others are not what ones should I order?

No the pump will not run unless I jump it. And yes the 87 also uses a blue socket for the fuel relay. Im going to the portland pick n pull tommorow. (its thier anual 50% off sale) so my 80 is gettin an interior swap! But as for the 87 im plannin on grabing a few relays and hoping that does the trick. Ill check back in tommorow.