NWSubie

Glad to see you are enjoying the little beast! I had fun building her, welcome to the forum.

I have one of these headers on my 98 OBS was easy to install and was a great upgrade to replace my stock header that had developed small pin holes in it due to rust. Anyone wanting a great well made product its definitely worth buying! Thanks Steve.

I have both my 80 wagon and my 98 impreza, the 80 does most of my town driving and fishing trips up in the mountains the impreza is for long trips and really hot days (ac is nice sometimes) I did do the ej swap to the 80 because it is nice to be able to get her moving when i need to and I tow my camping trailer with it. Just need to get the camber issue fixed since its lifted 4" it can be kinda tricky on wet roads on cornners. But I guess having a taste on both world is fun. The old subset do great on the wheeling trails as long as I stay out of the huge hole the big Chevys make haha since I don't really like flooding the inside of the car wich has happened to me a few times. Personally i feel it's a shame to crush the old sues unless it has been wrecked so bad that it's done for. I have crushed a few of them but not before taking damn near every usable part off of them to feed my old beast haha. I say keep your old sure and if you have to have the new one just have two lol. If I had a lot of property I would probably have quite a few since they are so cheap but who knows how much longer the old gens will be around.

Just added an LSD rear diff in my EJ'ed 80 wagon should help her out on the trails! Now I just need to get around to painting the car and adding some 15" wheels so I can run some real mud tires.

Not trying to thread jack but my dad has his 92 svx for sale. Its in good shape but does need some tlc from someone with more time than we have. It runs and drives but will stall out sometimes when shifting from park to drive. Wont die if you just tap the gas slightly when shifting. I took it for about an hour drive last night and it drove fine. PM me if anyones interested. Its had its trans rebuilt and a swaped jdm engine with paper work showing what was done. Its located near St. Helens OR.

The T-stat on the left is the one Napa gave me when I did my EJ swap in my 80 wagon. The car took forever to heat up and often would not clear all the moisture off the windows. The new Stant one I installed looks a lot different and I actually thought I had ordered the wrong one due to the size difference but nope it installed as it should and works great so far. Car heats up quicker although I have not driven it long enough to see if I can actually defog all of the windows yet. Thanks GD for making this link thats how I heard about this great non-oem option. :cool:

So here's props to GeneralDisorder and the guys at SSI (Superior Soobie and Imports) in Milwaukie OR. I contacted GD aka Rick about a noise/vibration that developed in my 98 OBS it ended up being a bearing in the imput shaft inside the trans not something I personally wanted to attempt to fix. But thanks to SSI I got my trans back two days later and now it shifts like new! It was suggested that I use extra s trans fluid in it and I can really tell a difference it's never shifted so smooth. So just wanted to say thanks to GD and to let you all know that there's a good Soobie shop located in the Portland area so check em out.

You may want to make sure the clutch fork is in good shape when you do the clutch I had mine wear through and it snapped on me. Not very common from what I hear but hey it happened to me. The fork just pops off its just held on by a clip. Also use new clips for the throw out bearing they are cheap at the dealer. Its pretty easy to do the clutch on these cars though. I personaly like using exedy clutch kits.

Hmm maybe I'll play around with it a bit and see what happens.

Well I set it to .5v with the engine off if I did my research right that's where it should be. But after the engine starts it drops to .38v and levels off at .42v is it normal for it to be that low. I understand that the sensor is essentially a spring that tightens up as the throttle moves changing its resistance. Also I read that the ohms on the sensor should be 5k between the red and black wire mines at 5.39k. Maybe this sensor is no good?

Is that hard to do? I see that It has two screws I'm assuming I loosen them to adjust it.

92 SVX recently started stalling when sitting idling in "park" it will shut off as if the key was turned off. If I give it some gas while shifting it will engage and not shut off. It will do this if I shift from "park" to "drive" as well. but its fine if I shift to "Neutral" Any Ideas on what I should look at? I removed and cleaned the IAC valve today with MAF cleaner but still has the same problem. Once the car is in gear it runs and drives fine its just the initial selecting drive it seems to have an issue with.

Wow thanks for the info I finally got to wifi so I could watch the video and that is pretty impressive stuff im surprised it can hold up on car wheels. Guess once my shop bay opens up I can try it out.

Ill definetley look into the 3m stuff I dont know if ill be able to get it on the hood scoops but its worth a try. Can it be heated slighly to be able to form around curved edges? And as for the car wash question I dont know I bought the car a few years back so its life before I bought it is unkown but now that I think about it I guess a lot of car was trips could wear the paint down. I have always hand washed all my rigs thats how you really get to know them haha. I know shes an older impreza but im hoping I can give her a bit of a touch up to keep her lookin a bit better, plus its a 2.2 that just hit 140k So I should have many more miles to go. I just installed a new oem clutch kit and will be doing the timing belt soon. Last owner did the belt but none of the pullies or the water pump so guess ill be re-doing it.

That looks really good! I have been wanting to learn how to do fiberglass work for a while now would be nice to be able to do custom stuff like that.

So my 98 OBS has really bad peeling paint and I'm not wanting to dump tons of money into a paint job. Its really just the roof, hood scoops, and right below the rear window on the hatch that are peeling. I'm not sure why the cars paint is in such bad shape other than it spent most of its life in the sun in California. I have tried to buff it out thinking it could just be oxidized paint but its through the clear coat. My idea for a cheaper solution is to order a few large sheets of the 3m vinyl and apply it over the scoops and roof. My question is is it hard to do? I have done decals but nothing this size and i have read that you can heat it up a bit to make it wrap around edges i.e the three roof rack rails that are attached directly to the roof. I would love any input from anyone who has worked with that vinyl before to see if I should do it myself or save up and have a shop do it. Thanks

So recently a friend of mine asked if i would do the front axles on his outback. I have done a fair share of axle jobs now but never on a subie that new. Looking on-line it appears they are the style that just pull out of the trans meaning there is no roll pin like the older models. Am i right and are there any issues i should be watching for? Just wanted to know ahead of time so I wont mess up his car haha. Thanks, NWSubie

Thank you for moving my post, Im putting a 93 legacy ej 2.2 into the 80 along with an 87 5spd D/R trans. I already heve the tranny adapter plate installed. I also have the two part EA82 driveline.

So I have been working on my ej swap for a few weeks in my 80 wagon. im trying to see whats the best way to make the new shifter linkages fit. Also do I need to make anything to weld the drive lines center bearing in? Or do I just weld it the body seemes kinda like the body could be pretty thin. Any picks of the linkages or the drive line will be helpful. Thanks

Thanks for the info and the link Ill be ordering that belt and hope it works.

I now use a 3/16" punch went down to sears and ordered it the next day I dont want to deal with a stuck roll pin again haha.

So I am doing an ej swap and I will not be having power steering or ac so I would like to find a serpentine belt that will only run the crank pulley and the alternator. Anyone know where to fine this belt napa just said "we dont sell them" and went on helping another customer so I'm hoping to find a part number that I can order offline. Thanks.

I know I'm late on the update but yeah impact guns are the way to go it actually took a few good hit with the impact gun to break the nut lose. So it was not gonna come off with hand tools. Boy do I wish I could afford a whole shop equipped with an air system that can run air tools.... someday I guess haha Thanks for the help everyone.

So a month ago I was at the junk yard pulling a 5spd D/R trans for my ej swap when the punch I was using to remove the roll pin got jammed inside of the roll pin. After several minutes of trying to get the punch out I decided to just disassemble the axle leaving the inner cup still on the transmission. when I got home I still could not get the punch out of the pin. So I took it over to sube101's shop and he just got out his slide hammer found a spare bolt that would thread into the end of the slide hammer and then tack welded the head of the bolt to the punch screwed the slide hammer on and with a few tugs it popped right out with the roll pin. Just thought I would share this fix because it can be annoying finding yourself dealing with this little but very annoying problem. And I was lucky it was on a trans that was out of the car all though if you can get enough room to tack the bolt while its still in the car then it should still work. Thanks and hopefully this will help someone if this happens to them. :cool: