bill hincher

no I didnt, i just havent had time

In the 4 bolt engine on the left the lower starter bolt is not in the block, in the 8 bolt engine on the right, the starter bolt goes all the way through, how should I arrainge the bellhousing to accept either set up? use a stud mounted in the housing? or thread the hole and allow the owner to drill it out if necessary? well here goes nothin, one full years work >;o) all good things for a man starts with a hole they didnt get a clean edge on the facing, I had to cut this one too far, I need the adjust the pattern a bit thicker on the front facing I didnt have enough time to surface the trans side yet,I just mocked up the trans facing, I was just checking how much I could take off I was VERY happy with my locaters, the bolts fit in the proper place in each mounting, it may use one more shrink to get a little more definition

would they be big beautiful,full figured wemen? with oral fixations and a very slow learning curve? maybe owned a liquor store? could you be a litle more specific?

I keep trying to mount the remote shifter as low as possible on top of the trans, I dont want as little obstruction as possible I built a flange to mount the bridges accross and locate the new shifter rod, I keep moving peices back and forth, up and down trying to seek the lowest level and still maintain mechanical leverage originaly I wanted to place a window here to see the pin go in place but I dont know if it would be an advantage to anyone

I dont have an exact number for the unit, I keep my stuff in the $300.00 range, the only extra cost on this is the throw out bearing and collar I gotta build, so thats gonna add $100.00 on the unit , Mellow sent me the bellhousing I cut up, and a flywheel and a clutch with the clutch fork and pivot ball, so its only fair that I let him test this thing out E mail me at japaneseauto1978@yahoo.com Monstaru and I will get the next unit out to you

It was 'mechanic humor' Manstaru, I was being funny, I just use my E mail account, I dont know anything about pay pal numbers you speak of Mellow is invested heavily into this project, out of respect for that, I wanted to include his input on the project, there may be adjustments I am not aware of

yeah i got pay pal and i got a bad rash too, ( comes back on me about every 30 days, the free clinic never saw anything like it) but I dont go 'on' about it but whats that got to do with bellhousings?

I need your adress mellow, I will be getting the first housing into your hands next week

I dont know what I did here >;o( This is the final sand, the housing on the left is built off of the original pattern on the right, but it is 1% smaller because of shrink when casted, many details were added and removed, all the demensions were checked and rechecked, now it goes into final casting the next step is to machine them out when I get them back

messed up my post >;o( sorry

I will document the shifter as I go, there are many options at hand, that in itself is a problem because it tends to lead to distraction, there are two idea's in the mix. first of all I build the narrow block 4G63 Mitsubishi turbo engine adapter to the R 154 Toyota tras suitable for the engine swap in the Starion Conquest, this application requires the low profile of the shifter and a short swing ' joy stick' style shifter handle second is the longer shift handle required for a truck style shifter that comes stock on the original Toyota transmission, with a newly relocated mounting perch moved to the drivers convenience either way, the shifter must be located so the driver takes its location and its function for granted, just like everybody that ever drove a car takes the brakes for granted, they work every time and we think nothing of it There is nothing worse than working your rump roast off getting the transmission you want mounted in the car you want and having the shifter handle either under the dash or behind the front seats Its like kissing your sister

mid engine equal length driveshafts thats soooooooooooooooooooo kwuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuul well, this is the week for it, I should have had it done before this, I just let too many things distract me

well, the first thing I had to do was find the leverage point I wanted, the shifter has a given ratio both forward and back to the shifter lever to give the driver the right ' given' distance for the shifter to pass across the gate ( sideways rotation) Because the forward and backward motion of the shifter stays the same no mater where the hiegth of the remote shift shaft was placed, the rotation would increase or decrease by the hiegth of the pivot point relationship of the 2 intersecting linkages between the remote shift shaft and the exiting shift shaft Thats why this one detail was so important to laying the ground work for the remote shifter, I was trying to find how far I could position the pivot ball off to one side so I could place it low on top of the case and well as maintain the proper ratio ( which came out to about 71% ) that came with the original shifter Now there will be 2 linkage inputs attached to the newly mounted shaft, one arm will be attached that allows rotation and the end of the shaft will be attached to allow forward and rearward motion At the rotation arm lever, I can then readjust shifter swing distance by where I attach the linkage ( shorter or longer) increasing or decreasing the ratio between shifter input and work done oddly enough, its the obvious pull and push that is giving me the most time thinking out, because this all must be done with the fewest parts required, in a simple clean movement, ( more parts equals problems) so it has to be done with the fewest moves available. This has to bolt on the existing shifter hole on the trans, be no more then 1.25 inch high and give and exact 'feel' to the driver in both motion and distance of motion building this first step is like writting down everything I am thinking, I need to find what really works before I can press forward, this is my 4th set up that really worked, I didnt post the first 3 versions that didnt work >;o) but right now I am going to finish this bellhousing, the T 5 is finished, the W and R series Mits bellhousing is finished, the Motor mounts are finished, I found a 8 bolt Sub engine to mount up and I gotta finish the Sub so I can get back to work on the 6G72 v6 / powerglide unit and the T 56 wide block set up plus I got to do a write up on my findings with the Toyota sudden acceleration problems for a lawsuit against Toyota ( I tried like hell to get out of it ) but I do expert witness work for local attorny's on auto related class action suits

I cant edit the previous post but I am finishing this casting out and re using it as the final pattern

everytime I start the build, I never know where it will go, so I have no idea on cost of the shifter I am having trouble with my server , I been trying to upload some more pic's of the bellhousing but my server wont upload from my computer, sorry for the delay

This applies to all the Toyota transmissions, this just happens to be an R 154 but it will work on the W series just as easy that long rod with the finger at the end of it is the key to building the remote shifter that is low enough to fit under the trans tunnel and move the shifter back as far as I wanted you can see here how the finger fits in the three shiftshafts to move the R 154 through all the different gear selections at the other end of the shaft away from the finger end I built this recepter at an angle in an attempt to keep the shaft low, I built this as a starter project, I will take the numbers I found here and continue to lower it further I built a couple pillar blocks and found the correct numbers to build the shift ratio for the sideways motion in the shifter, it was about 72% I cut away the rear housing so I could see the shift motion in all gears, it shift as smooth as silk >;o)

sounds like I better build a drive shaft machine now:-\

it would be real easy to use the stock oil pump and put the pick up in the rear sump, by using a sandwich plate between your engine block and the oil pan, then you could place your pick up in place and attach your oil lines and then put the new oil pan cover in place butttttttt after all that , you could just support the new pick up tube so it didnt vibrate.......dont get me started! I gotta finish the bellhousing for the Sub first!

I am a dry sump guy, I can build the rear sump with the long pick up but I am afraid of breaking the longer tube with engine vibration I would prbably build a spacer between the engine and the pan and use a outside pick up hose, but by then I could have the dry sump system

I do apolagize freind, I am sorry for my delays, I got a lot of pressure to develop the TKO option for some other engines and its like a good book that I just couldnt put down, I wont let you down, I just need to rest a little between stages while building the bellhousing, I need to think out what I need to do next while thinking 2 or 3 steps ahead ,like playing chess soooooooooooo while I was building the Sub set up, I worked out the problems for my T 5 and TKO set up on the Mits engines, and while I work on the Mits engine set ups, I think about the Sub, I been feelin kinda guilty so I better get back to the Sub >;o) this will fit either the T 5 or the TKO toe either the first or second gen narrow block 4G63 or the 4 through 9 EVO engines

sorry about being late with information on the bellhousing, but I been working out the details on the engine swap and motor mount location on the Starions i got to square the engine not only up and down but also sideways and the angle of the engine , so there is no twist, then the mounts can be built I did this because I need to work out the remote shifter to fit the trans for the Subaru conversions, they will go hand in hand

from what information I have gathered, the W series Toyota 5 speed ( W 55-59 non turbo) is the same input length at the pre '96 R 151 and 150 which was built for the v6 truck and 22re turbo engines in 4wd and 2 wd then after '96 R 151 and 150 was built for the V-6 truck but an inch was added to the input shaft length so here is the deal w-55-59 and pre 96 r 151 and r 150 = 6.5 inch input shaft r 154 Toyota Supra turbo trans = 7.25 in input shaft after 96 r 151 and r 150 V-6 Toyota trans = 7.50 input shaft so I should be able to build my W 55 bellhousing to accept the pre' 96 R 151 and r 150 And i should be able to add 1 inch to my R 154 bellhousing to accept the after 96 r 151 and 150 trans