bill hincher

now comes one of lifes leasons we can all learn from The reason McDonalds resturants are so succesful and VW bug worked so well was because the menu was short! mellow and me talked about a bellhousing designed and built for an entry level, regular guy that wants to do something a little different at a decent price with parts he can get at any parts store or junk yard and have some fun, end of story. If you want a high level / pull style/ exotic clutch, no problem, it costs about $5000.00 for me to develop and build a special bellhousing with one purpose, i have no problem with that, E-mail me, get you facts together and I will build you one But dont change the rules in the middle of the game

there was an old tool commercial with two guys on a roof and the one guys wife comes home with a skill saw and some hammers and shows her husband what she had done, after the wife got done telling her husband she wanted to get him more tools , the other guy asked him if 'she had a sister' because he wanted a gurl just like he had, it was all in good fun >;o) I own and run an import car repair shop during the day, I do mechanical work and all the bookwork/taxwork involved my shop is where I go to relax and build things I mostly stay alone, because stuff I do requires so much thought and I block everything thing esle out I build complete cars too from frame work to electrical to paint, I do it all , by myself, just to enjoy it Thats why this stuff takes so long, I am usually building 3 projects at a time over a variety of stages

You got a sister?

you are correct about turbo pull style aplications, but on the LS 1 Chevy, they changed back to push style after trying pull style, its a cool idea, but not practical, kinda like reverse cooling the pull style was also engineered around the main bearing , in particular the thrust main bearing, if you are going to change from push style to pull style you should be sure your crankshaft main thrust bearing will support the movement

let me know on this and I will build a spacer plate so you can bolt the R 154 Supra turbo trans or the A 15 Jeep trans to this housing, plenty of strength for racing ANY clutch build to suit the Subaru engine will work in this unit, just the spline in the disc needs to change, see Dan at compition clutch

I will probably have the casting back in my hands within a week and a half, then tune that out and include the starter pocket, then the next run will be for delivery, so Cristmas is doable IF everything falls in place, how much snow did you guys get? I will be building the remote shifter this next month

the details are worked out, the wall thickness is ok and the draft angle is worked out on both sides of the housing, this should shrink about 1% and then I will test machine out a raw casting and it should all be good It goes to the casting shop Monday

that is why it took so much time to detail out the design, non of those bolts were spaced evenly , it doesnt make any sense because you have a guide pin to index the flywheel

while I putter with the sub bellhousing, I am also working out the details of the V 6G72 Mits auto trans coupler Just didt want you guys think I was loafing

these will work with either the W series 55 through59 non turbo Toyota trans OR the pre 93 short shaft R 150 and R 151 Toyota trans, both using the original Sub flywheel, pressure plate, starter and clutch fork with a supplied throw out bearing we will think of somethin

now I get to do the outside, sand and fill, sand and fill

now its just time for a lot of filling and sanding, and filling and sanding and sanding and filling:banana:

I trimmed out the outer ridge on the existing housing so I could build in the draft line for casting then I filled in the last two panels in the housing Then I cut strips of aluminum and welded them on the interior side of the housing, its a way to control the wall thickness, I can be a little off with it on the thick side but it will not be thinner then this thickness through out then I added an outer trim ring, this will give me a datum line to fill the outer wall to size, you can never have enough clamps when welding >;o)

finally, back to the Sub, the first thing I have to do is allow for shrink while casting, the number given is always 1% shrink when casted, but experience says to allow a little more then that after the inside of the housing is spaced out, then each of the bolt bosses must be spaced out to get a center when machining the housing you can see here by the outline how far the starter pocet will move at about 2% casting I like to use a 1 in diameter bolt boss so I have a lot of material for the bellhousing bolts to grip then each bolt boss needs to be built with about a 3% taper so the pattern will draft then all the bolt bosses are welded in place I will finish this project this week, then have it sent to casting next week

I am building the 4G63 Mitsubishi narrow block that accepts either the R 150 or the R 151 or the W 55 through W 59 Toyota transmissions, then I have built the T 5 narrow block 4G63 bellhousing and I gotta fill that in and flow it out. I will be finishing the Sub next ( without delay) all I gotta do is fill in the required wall thickness and flow it out , then off to casting I am building the V 6 Mitsubishi 6G72 for the GM auto trans and I am building the Wide Block G54b Mitsubishi T 56 speed trans, plus I am building a driveshaft machine and some motor mount designs and i wanna design a new intake manifold for the 4g63 I have 2 starion conquest to build and a 57 Ford But I gotta get it done before winter because I have to do all the bookkeeping work for 3 businesses plus personal for my accountants because it takes 6 months to get my tax work done

I am building 3 bellhousings right now, I want to be completed in a couple of weeks before I need to do the tax bookeeping at the end of the year all the planning and designing is over, now its just old fashioned sanding sand and fill sand and fill

The R 150's 2wd are found on all the toyota V 6 trucks pre 86 The R 151 was used on the turbo 4 cyl Toyota truck and 86-87 and v-6 toyota trucks after 87 they sell for about 3-500 bucks on car-part.com and there are plenty of them The input shafts are shorter then the R 154, and they are different before and after 86, but all I have to do is change how the bellhousing is built and then cut the back plate for which ever trans is ordered Its all I been working on the last couple weeks, I finished out the dual bolt pattern for the trans side so it accepts both the w 55/59 trans or the R 151 or 150 trans 1st 2nd 3rd 4th 5th R150 - 3.83 2.062 1.436 1.00 0.838 R151 - 4.31 3.32 1.52 1.00 0.83 R154 - 3.25 1.95 1.30 1.00 0.75 This is another bellhousing I am building for the Mitsubishi 4cyl narrow block that will do the same job I am building 3 bellhousings right now, I want to be completed in a couple weeks I liked how the bolt holes lined up in the T 5 project so well, I went back and did it to this model too I spent a great deal of time on wall thickness, I wanted to get i as light as possible without sacrificing strength these are built to be used on the narrow block first gen, and second gen and EVO 4 through9 its going to be used with the AWD flywheel, I can build it to accept the FWD but its too confusing to have them machined at a outsource if I switch around

Its the lathe I choose to use, I use a three jaw on my finishing lathe and I have a 4 jaw for this lathe for square pieces

I can make the fork go through its motion and it works as smooth as silk

I hate to admit it but I had misjudged the depth of the input shaft so I had to cut and instal spacers on the inside of the housing I built the hieght of the throw out bearing pivot ball had to be adjusted then I milled off the backside of the bellhousing to adjust to the length of the input shaft then the inner diameter was trimmed to fit both the W series and the R series Toyota transmissions then the whole thing is reassembled to check clearances now the proper input shaft legth is achieved now the clutch fork is the proper depth to control the throw out bearing motion with the clutch assembled I found the depth required for the throw out bearing body Dan at compitition clutch has been very helpful and found the proper throw out bearing to complete this project without buying custom clutch parts, this is the proper throw out bearing but I needed to build the holder it could ride on. I had my own throw out bearing collar casted for this project so I can cut the required depth and adjust the throw out bearing into the proper place to take advantage of the motion of the clutch fork co-ordinaded with the hieght of the pivot ball attached to the back wall of the bellhousing

I found the throw out bearing and I had the throw out bearing body casted and machined , so its all good, while I was waiting for the throw out body , I got hooked on the T 5 Ford trans for the Mits last week and I couldnt put it down everytime I make a change, I put it back int the mill and make sure its square I keep testing the centers and the depth of the input shaft This housing can be ordered with left or right side slave cylinders I have about 30 more hours of detail to put into it, so thats enough of the T 5 for now, I will be building a housing for New Zealand tomorow and be back on the Sub mid week, I will post pics on it Wensday

the Toyota bearing from the update was a good selection but it presented some problems with depth, the Toyota throw out collar was too short to support this bearings use, so I will have to build a throw out bearing holder and find a bearing with a larger inner diameter, its no big deal, I build them for my R 154 /Mits combination already

whiner:banana:

its a 'bit' leave it in! said the director!

that does seem to be the proper bearing, its from a 3SGE Toyota engine I have one on its way now from Dan at compitition clutch , who by the way is the ONLY guy to work with on your clutch systems, he has always been a great help the remaining detail is the depth required for the bearing to ride on the existing Toyota throw out bearing sleeve on the w series trans what I gotta knowwwwwwwwww is , why are there 2 clutch fork pivots in the bellhousing? the only one I need it the outer one, is this an option? or required