bill hincher

I put it aside for a bit while I built somebellhousings, have to assume you are ready for it, so I will pick it up again and finish it, I just been sooooooooooooooooooooooooo busy with housings

you can try out my shifter too, I am pretty confident in it hey????????????????? you was worried about the bellhousing?????????????????????

god help us now >;o)))))))))))))) ohhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh jeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeez al we are gonna hear is about Mellows car.................... my car does this and my car does that

you are used to seeing the shifter loop ( I call it) in the shifter housing, yes, that is a W series transmission with an R 154 shifter collar taking place of the original W series loop, its just a collection of Toyota parts that are crossed over

NO WAYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYY??????????????!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! It looks like it was made for that engine bay

I dont quite understand what your asking but it is compatible with a shifter from the Mitsubishi Eclipse in either cable or solid shaft design there is no restriction on length or positioning, the only real downside is the higth of the remote shifter box, I will be building it as low as I can but its still too tall for me, I didnt want to require too much sheet metal to be removed

even if you wanted a cable set up, you would need this part, you need the remote shift rail to get your cables hooked to, so you still need the box on top of the trans

this is the remote shifter, the first thing I did was replace the shifer loop extension with an R 154 internal set up then I located and mounted the second peice from the R 154 shifter and located the shift rail then I started building the body of the remote shifter I could have done this a lot of different ways but it had to be very universal because it will fit a variaty of aplications and it had to work just as well as a 5 inch extension to a 2 foot extension I will probably spend just as much time building the tooling to machine this part

I would be glad to help anyone on the AX 15 trans adapter but I dont see the advantage Just go down and buy one and ship it to me, it may take a couple months the input shaft is 2 inch longer then the R 150 and the throw out bearing collar is longer, but in the end all the engineers are doing is locating the shifter back for the Jeep aplication Its the same R sereis trans built by Asian

he was drunk >;o)

Dan McCarney Competition Clutch, Inc Sales Manager Technical Support P: 800.809.6598 F: 770.388.7385 http://www.Competitionclutch.com make sure and mention my name >;o)

you just use the Toyota disc and the rest is all subaru the disc was used in mid 1980's pick up with a 22 r engine if you want a clutch built , its Dan at compitition clutch

everything bolted up okay? what do you need to do with the shifter? what abot a rear crossmember ? I feel like nervous uncle

I see you didnt tell your mom the 'pole dancer story' and she didnt get your cement in >;o(

naw, I built some tools and been working on a reverse starter C4 combination to the V 6 6G72 Mitsubishi engine this last week I built a small die to add another bend in the flex plates at the mounting bolt area, notice the fit of the converter nose in the crankshaft coupler this was a tight fit, it was a series of selected over counter parts that once bolted together everything fell into place an inch is as good as a mile when you are in charge I knew placing the starter would be the toughest part of the build, so I moved ot around many times before I decided on the placement, this is a neet little puzzle whadchu been doin?

I dont understand this

well, the thought was, that if you gotta have a remote shifter anyway, why does it need to be clocked level? clocking or indexing the transmission to the right wouldnt change how far it hung down very much but it would be a tremendous advantage to the front drive shaft rear u-jiont I would make two seperate styles and keep the level setups on hand too

hey mellow where you been? I feel like a bad date that got dumped off at the door step aint notin gets by 'ol Crawler dan >;o)))))))))))))))))))))

yeah, the only other thing I am thinking over is to clock the trans harder to the right, just on the 4wd set ups and lower the front drive shaft flange, that way you could raise the car higher and not put a bind in the front shaft

I am excited to see how the front drive shaft angle works out, traditionally, when you raise the car that high, the front drive shaft wont angle down far enough at the trans/ driveshaft u-joint so you have to move the engine back furthur to get a longer angle, that why the mid engine was always on my mind

you will notice in all but one of your examples a horizonal shock is attached to the drag link or the steering link and that is proof of what I am trying to explain, that shock is there to dampen the oscilation

chrysler ( jeep) made in my home town where 90% of my family works is the worst example you can use The only reason I spoke of the condition is because I have first hand kowledge of it both in driving and in its explination In the factory set up , you are dealing with maybe 4in suspension travel, in after market systems you are dealling with at least twice that and ( hopefully) a much softer spring what the problem is, as the weight of the vehicle moves down, a panhard bar placed in an angle ( at rest) will extend its length through its arc movement and shift the whole axle in one direction ( in this case towards the passenger side) because the panhard bar is mounted at stationary pivot points, it can not flex under this given movement HOWEVER, the steering link can adjust to the arc's movement through driver input so as you look at your motion ( at rest) you are quite correct to say everything stays in relation to each other in its equal length motion WHEN THE STEERING WHEEL IS POINTED STRAIGHT FORWARD but when you enter partial turn it is no longer equal when partial steer is entered into the drag link , now you have either a push develop in the steer ( right turn in this case) or an oversteer develop ( in a left trun in this case) If for some reason, the weight of the vehicle moves downward in this condition, you develop an occilation of oversteer, understeer that can not be controled, its reffered to as steering shake in chrysler trucks the reason it happenes to 4wd guys is because they tend to use a larger tire, when you do that, you change how the C/G works on the panhard bar and it gets overloaded the best way to adjust the panhard bar is to locate it in a neutral position ( at rest that also includes tire drop)so that as the axle moves through its motion , the pan hard bar only gets shorter in its arc. with the panhard bar mounted in a nuetral ( center of arc) location, you cut the amount of sideways movement/travel in half having said all that, its just an over techinical point, that has no bearing on this build, if you are building your own rig and want to do it that way, no problem, but because I work on other people's projects. I am held reponsible to know these things before I build the car.

no, its not, but it is what it is

we need pic's man!

I was going to kick start this thread again yesterday but I thought I would wait, where are you on the project man? got pic's?