Mike104
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Posts posted by Mike104
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On 5/1/2018 at 1:23 AM, GeneralDisorder said:
Denso or Koyo for radiator.
Aisin for water pump. Mitsuboshi belt, NSK/NTN/Koyo idlers. NTN tensioner.
Dealer HG. Order the gasket for a 2008 STI. Part number ending in 770. All other gaskets from Subaru.
GD
Need to make this a sticky so GD doesn't have to keep reposting this info
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Similar posts have been made and the fix is always the brake light switch or it's adjustment. If still under warranty take it to a dealer to get fixed. It's a known issue.
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Try getting a used Subaru one from a pull and pay yard. Make sure the suction line has a strong clamp on it
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Get a used Subaru coil from an Auto wrecker but change the spark plugs and wires (NGK only) first. Don't drive it or you will toast your Catalytic Converter (misfires put unburned fuel into the cat destroying the catalyst)
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You need the EJ22 exhaust manifold.
Swap crank gear and drivers side cam sprocket or verify they’re the same. There’s two styles of triggers on the gear/sprocket.
EGR Id ignore.
I don't know if WA state has emissions inspections or if they check for codes/monitors not ready during testing. If not, ignore the EGR issue if they do then a work around for the EGR will need to be installed. I do seem to recall where others had done a rework that did not involve drilling and tapping the cylinder head, but don't recall the method.
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"If it ain't broke, don't fix it"
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Fuji Bond is way cheaper at Nissan dealers
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The piece of mind knowing the job is done right will be worth the extra effort to remove the oil pump now
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I generally take some over the counter pain medication BEFORE I start doing anything too strenuous these days
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Here up North the UV from the sun isn't so strong so things don't break down much. I'm also guessing this car was kept in a heated garage too.
Is Fairbanks far enough north to have periods of no daylight? Or is it just really short (or really long) daylight! I remember being in Anchorage in the summer and the sun was still out at like 1130pm
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OK, well I removed the axle yesterday, and I just gave it a jerk, and it came right out. I didn't need to pry. Those roll pins are so hard to get to on the passenger's side, I just went ahead and this worked fine. I believe in later years the stub that goes into the transmission is actually part of the axle, so that's what you have to do on those models.
No fluid leaked out with the axle out.
My 03 Forester has the stub shaft built as part of the axle so no worries. Getting that roll pin out on jack stands is a bear.
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It's usually where the connecting rod attaches to the crankshaft. The overheat damages the bearings and they wear quickly resulting in excessive clearance and hence the rod knock. Just keep driving it till it dies. Then throw in a used EJ2.2L engine and it will run forever.
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China and Taiwan are the two things to avoid in timing components. Koyo, NTN and NSK are the preferred supplies. Ask him it he will pay for the engine damage if one of his idlers/tensioner die.
Probably not an issue as you will likely have rod knock from massive overheat in the next few thousand miles anyway.
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98 should have the DOHC. You will know your head gaskets are gone when the overflow tank is boiling over.
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Change the oil too. If overheated enough possible issues could be rod knock or head gaskets. Yours will likely fail sending exhaust gases into the overflow bottle.
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I think the only downside of taking out the stub shaft is the possibility of breaking the spring clip inside the transaxle. But I have done it both ways without much issue on my 99
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Check the part number for your car here
It may be the correct part number but best to confirm using your car information/VIN at the above website
You may also need washers and nut for that bolt plus the lower lateral link bushings. If you scroll down to the bottom of that amazon page it shows you the additional items to add (two bushings).
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My favorite lateral link bolt video
http://<div style="position:relative;height:0;padding-bottom:56.21%"><iframe src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/w7rYxh0XWuA?ecver=2" style="position:absolute;width:100%;height:100%;left:0" width="641" height="360" frameborder="0" allow="autoplay; encrypted-media" allowfullscreen></iframe></div>
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Ah yes, THAT bolt. I did use a breaker bar that's about 20" long. Yes it required some force to get it to turn, the previous owner worked at a ski lodge so it got plenty of salt (most of the bolts are rusty but no rust on the body). Anyway, it was tough but took more time to go into the garage and get the long breaker bar than to get it to turn. From there I used the impact wrench which did nothing before the breaker bar. A torch is on my wish list. The video was about 45 minutes too long for me so with the new bolt, I'm guessing he cut the old one. Over the years the best thing I ever used on rusty bolts is heat. Get it slightly red and turn it when it's still hot and they go pretty easy. Forget the penetrating oils like PB blaster unless heat is not an option. Even then I've never had any luck with penetrating oil. When the other side goes, now I know to get a new bolt just in case, but with no torch I go to the sawz-all.
In the video he ended up using some spray lube and kept going at it for way too long with the impact. The nut came off no problem but I couldn't budge it with my 24" breaker bar so I ended up using a cutoff wheel. The knuckle was hosed anyway (elongated hole where lateral link bolt passed through) so I was prepared with all new parts that I used.
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So it would seem that it is a catch 22 situation - a car that should be fixed - but is not worth fixing --- it will probably end up in my dead car pit - ratted for a few parts - and end up in the crusher.
Sadly that happens many times at least here in North America. Car is deemed to expensive to fix (paying for shop rate) but too nice for a crusher. Often they get sold to auto wreckers, stripped of parts and then crushed. Often I see cars with bad engines/transmissions that an individual could have fixed and had a nice car much cheaper than buying new one.
Always amazes me that people will abandon a car because it needs a couple of thousand dollars in repairs and then turn around and spend 10's of thousands on a new car
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The FSM used to show a special tool set and using a press with the knuckle off the car. There was a TSB many years ago and a specially designed tool called a Hub Shark that uses a screw press. The main issue can be the lateral link bolt. Sometimes it's easy (like Superoo said) and sometimes its difficult like in this video
http://<div style="position:relative;height:0;padding-bottom:56.21%"><iframe src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/w7rYxh0XWuA?ecver=2" style="position:absolute;width:100%;height:100%;left:0" width="641" height="360" frameborder="0" allow="autoplay; encrypted-media" allowfullscreen></iframe></div>
A lift and a torch makes this job much easier.
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The fitting GD posted should fix the P0420 code. I have a similar fix on two of my older Subaru's that had P0420 codes. Personally I wouldn't spend $$$$ for a catalytic converter on a 98 car.
Usually on these cars the P0420 code gets triggered when the Aft O2 sensor voltage goes over 0.8V this fix puts the rear O2 sensor further out in the exhaust stream lowering the voltage and getting rid of the P0420 code. Exhaust leaks can also trigger this code.
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'98 Legacy Outback questions, please ??
in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
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Is the dome light burnt out? Does the door ajar indicator work when each door is opened/closed. Evap code could be many things. Post which one it is for better suggestions