Mike104
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Posts posted by Mike104
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I had the same issue on my 03 Forester, Check Engine light when coasting in neutral. Saw the write up above, changed the switch and Check Engine Light gone!
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Best option to tap in an oil pressure gauge is at the oil pressure switch it's very close to the oil pump output and should give a good indication as to actual oil pressure. You can install it as a temporary job or permanent if you want.
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Just pop it back in, may need a soft hammer to make it go in.
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So it sounds like the Wheel Hub has a different spline pattern/size? The 2001 has pressed in front bearings and the 2006 has bolt in ones. I don't know if the wheel hub would transfer. I doubt if the entire knuckle would work.
Hopefully someone smarter that me will answer your question.
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Looks like the belt is off one tooth.
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I did the same mod but ran a 12 Ga wire from the + terminal on the battery directly to Pin 30 on the relay (with a 30 Amp inline fuse). The above one uses less wire.
Post #8 above has a link to the same mod.
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Looks like I'm using "Made in China" product from Gates.
Any precautions I should be looking at? I guess this cheap product won't last as long as the Japanese made product. Next time I'll know better. Thanks.
Don't make your next timing belt service at 105k. Maybe 50k.
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Thanks, I was wondering about those slotted holes. Also, after the pulleys are torqued on, can you spin them? Mine turn freely, but don't keep spinning. Should I have oiled these?
No oil but generally the common thought is to replace them at TB change with non Chinese made idlers (KOYO/NTN, etc), especially the cogged one
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The P0335 and not starting issue are not related.
Edit. The P0335 code is a symptom not the cause. GD explains it well in a later post. The point I was trying to make is that the P0335 code was not the problem and was not causing your no crank issue. Having experienced this issue myself (and replacing a number of parts) I stumbled upon the relay mod and once installed addressed the intermittent no crank issue. Need to use a large enough wire (12 Ga) and a fuse from the battery post for safety.
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If starter clicks but doesn't spin common issue is contacts in the solenoid.
http://beergarage.com/subystarter.aspx
I had to do the start signal bypass relay mod on my 99 to get it to start consistently.
http://www.subaru-svx.net/forum/showpost.php?p=602710&postcount=4
Could also be the start inhibit relay if your car is equipped with one.
Crankshaft Position Sensor resistance range is between 1 and 4 kΩ?
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Changed headgaskets on a 03 Forester, didn't know about the small oil pump. Ended up changing the block later due to rod knock. Save yourself the trouble and get another engine or block that you know hasn't been overheated.
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So when the crank sprocket slips I expect that would affect the timing resulting in power loss? I have heard of people cleaning the keyway, putting in a new key and sometimes filling the gap with JB weld and after it cures installing a new sprocket and tightening the bolt properly.
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Bearing quality and installation technique probably have more impact on bearing life than the grease. Although since some Foresters seem to have more failures on the right rear bearing I did clean and repack that bearing with Lucas Red and Tacky, I don't know if that will have any effect but didn't think it would hurt anything. I have only changed a handful of bearings on Subaru's so GD's experience with changing hundreds is certainly more valid.
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When cold I have to double clutch my 03 to get it into first when stopped. Once warmed up no issue. Wonder if the gear oil may have an impact?
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You should never regret buying quality
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OK, well another update. The press should push on the CENTER race. There is NO WAY to push on the outer race. There is a shoulder inside the knuckle that the outer race butts against. Believe it or not, I got a second one, and we destroyed the shoulder thinking we were pushing on the outer race! I was thinking that I could still use the knuckle, but then I realized that I would not be able to torque the big axle nut properly. It would just push the bearing back. So I'm back to looking for a 3rd one....
I learned that one the hard way too! Reference my comment above about pushing the bearing out in the correct direction
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Gates - junk.
FelzPro - junk.
Dealer - good. Use 770 part number HG's.
Head bolt - reuse.
GD
Best answer^
Subaru HG PN 11044AA770 for EJ25 Engines is the one to use
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Another option is to buy items separately (NTN, Koyo, NSK) are all good Japanese components. Misuboshi belt is good too.
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Harbor Freight used to sell cheap 4' x 8' Utility trailers (~$200) but it seems they no longer sell them. They were rated for 1000 lbs which probably would have worked for you.
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Go to www.car-part.com and it will tell you what years will fit
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Some use a tool like this (or a home made version) to get the bearing/hub out of the knuckle
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On my 03 Forester the antenna is in the left rear window. After my son installed his new HU radio reception sucked. Googled and found out the the blue Power Antenna wire needed to be connected to power the booster. Connected the wire and works much better
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X has rear drum brakes and non-painted lower body cladding
XS has rear disks and painted lower body cladding
Cooling System not working properly - Tried everything.
in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
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Could be a blocked heater core that is preventing the thermostat from opening. Try taking the hoses off the heater core and connecting them with a pipe fitting. Then run the car. The heater circuit feeds the back side of the thermostat letting it open. No flow to back side and thermostat won't open.