Mike104
-
Posts
1009 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
13
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Gallery
Store
Posts posted by Mike104
-
-
I thought MT were 50/50 on front/rear power distribution?
-
I had the same issue on my 99 OBW and I ended up replacing the whole light assemblies
-
I think that is the Throttle Position Sensor. I believe your car may have a MAP (Manifold Absolute Pressure) sensor located on passenger side front strut tower
-
What Head Gasket did you use?
-
Resolved
Made a rookie mistake. Took the alt off of another 96 I had and somehow mixed them up and brought the old one back.
After deciding it had to be something I did, rechecked output and it was about 12 volts!!!!
Finally got back to where the correct one was and swapped.
At least I can feel my fingers again!!!
FYI Advance Auto's testing does say past/fail, but it also gives an output amperage.
O.
.
When I worked there customer was generally interested in Pass/Fail. Fail meant we had to sell them an alternator !
-
When Advance checked the output of the alternator, was it about 14 amps?
I think the tester at Advance is a Pass/Fail indication. I don't recall if it gives you an amp reading (it's been a while since I checked one there).
A number of Brake/Battery lights have been defective diodes in the voltage regulator (internal to the alternator).
-
I bought Metric O-ring kit from Harbor Freight that worked for the crossover pipe
-
Definitely monitor oil and coolant levels to prevent premature engine death due to oil starvation and no coolant. Check the engine oil when it's cold and the coolant by opening the rad cap (assuming the 06's still have them).
As stated above those engines can leak oil/coolant through head gaskets so as long as the fluid levels are maintained. At some point if you have leaking head gaskets you get tired of the leaks and fix them.
No hard and fast mileage number for them to leak. Keep an eye for external oil/coolant leaks and check those levels often.
-
A few listed from $150-350 scattered around the country on car-part.com junkyard database. Looked up 05 baja, selected Hood, picked Turbo model, there you go.
www.car-part.com is my go to for what fits what. Definitely defer to someone who has actually put said part on a car and it fits over car-part though.
-
Pretty much what ido said. There is a special tool to remove them
http://www.company23.com/subarutools/532
Pinch bolts do tend to shear so heat is your friend.
If you live in the rust belt be prepared for a fight. Some here with more experience that the two or three I have changed may have some additional tips.
Getting the ball joint out of the control arm can be done in several ways, use a ball joint pickle fork, hit the control arm with a small sledge where the ball joint fits into, use a big pry bar to pull down on the control arm are some that I have seen/used.
-
I did an EJ25 to EJ20 Swap on my 03 Forester and the timing stuff all fit (Timing Belt, Idlers, Tensioner, etc). I had done the timing belt job on my EJ25 about 20k miles before it got bad rod knock. Many of the JDM suppliers require you to put on a new oil pump as well
-
Subaru dealer has them (they should be able to find the part number). The center pin ones are reuseable assuming that the tabs on the outer part are not broken.
94099AA200MU
You may be able to get some from a pull and pay yard.
-
1
-
-
-
What does the ER HC error code on a Subaru Legacy signify?
The ER HC code is essentially a high speed communication error code. It implies the Engine Control Module (ECM) is not turning on or communication with other computers is absent. If any recent engine work or repair was carried out on the Subaru, it is possible that there is a loose ground connection or one of the connectors is not plugged in tightly. Check these wires and if nothing is loose or disconnected, further testing of the wiring is necessary.
Lots of hits for HC error code in the Google. Possibly the alternator fried the ECM or BIU. May be worth taking it to a competent shop that can diagnose it properly instead of putting parts on in an attempt to fix it.
-
I did the EJ20 swap into a Forester with 5MT due to a rod knock. After it was all said and done I probably paid close to $1500-$2000 for the swap. I also put a CCR reman into my 99 OBW. If I do this again on a car I want to keep long term I would go for the Subaru short block and send my heads out for service (valves/seals/etc.)
As stated above there are many options and each one has it's drawbacks. JDM can be a crap shoot and you may get a good one or maybe not, again it's a used engine and you don't know how long it's been sitting around at the supplier.
-
One option is to go to a pull and pay yard and take the alternator cable from a similar car (Check for corrosion on the terminals)
-
Check this out for Subaru Radio Harness Pin Outs
I usually buy a Metra harness and connect it to the new head unit harness then it's an easy connection to the factory Subaru Connector. But some don't want to spend an extra $10 to get the Metra harness (connects to Subaru Factory connector and you can wire it to the new head unit harness).
This for the 95 & Up Legacy
-
oh yeah that lower lateral bolt to remove the rear hub is going to be insanely rust welded in place, those things shear off like it snows up north.
try to get the entire arms with it so you don't need to deal with that bolt.
Yeah that's going to be a bear. I replaced both rear wheel bearings on my 03 Forester and bit the bullet to buy new knuckles, bearings, lateral link bolts and bushings. It wasn't the cheapest way to go but it worked for me. I replaced the Brake backing plates as well. I get my parts at dealer cost + 10% so it wasn't as bad as paying retail. I didn't have a lift or an impact so I just planned on changing everything and it worked for me.
Since mine were drum brakes I just replaced the backing plates. My 98 OBW with rear disks had badly rusted backing plates with holes so leaving it alone is an option too.
Just depends on how you want to do it.
-
I've used automobivetouchup for years. Always a good match on 5-6 different cars.
Definitely a good choice
-
Could also need the relay fix. Best thing to check is voltage to the small wire at the starter (pull the connector off and measure voltage from that pin to ground when someone cranks the engine). The relay fix directs 12V directly from the battery to the solenoid.
The above is assuming the starter contacts don't fix the issue.
I changed the ignition switch on my 99 Outback and that didn't fix my issue so I wouldn't start with that.
-
I have heard of a number of Subaru windshields cracking on other boards. Seems the EyeSight system prefers the windshields supplied through Subaru (made by their glass supplier). Calibration takes some skill/tooling/software to be done right (according to my son who works at a Subaru dealer).
http://www.subaruforester.org/vbulletin/f88/windshield-cracks-there-issues-these-windshields-703113/
http://www.impreza5.com/forum/11-exterior/2194-weak-windshield.html
-
Usually the controls get gummed up with stuff and stop working. Probably best to go to a pull and pay yard and get one to replace yours. Mine died a while ago and I replaced it. Problem solved.
-
-
Subaru Parts does list the 31232GA082 pn from 85-2003. Retail price is $32.30
There is also a Clip, Boot (31260GA580) on the large end ($1.24) and a Hose Clamp 092316502 on the smaller end ($1.50) but you should be able to reuse the existing ones.
Slow death of the igniter. Long live the igniter! (No spark in cylinder 3.)
in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
Posted
Thanks for letting us know. I didn't know there was a second part to the coil!