[Buy wheel bearing from dealer expecting Koyo, get NTN]

Updating the story:  I found that the 23 piece tool for removing the bearing did not work.  First of all, the disk that was closest to the bearing diameter was 64mm, but 65mm would have been better.  The disk got off center and sheared the bearing a little but did not push it out.  I ended up removing the entire knuckle.  I turned a bigger cylinder of aluminum on a lathe to push out the bearing, and tried on my neighbor's 12 ton press, but that did not move it either. 

 

I went to a machine shop and the guy turned me a steel cylinder to push on it, but I wasn't paying attention when he put it in the press, and it got put in backwards.  The press destroyed the knuckle.  So now I need to buy another knuckle to continue......

 

Yep learned that one the hard way too!

[Solenoid? Intermittent starting problem.]

Check the voltage at the small wire on the starter when cranked.

[96 legacy manual swap]

Getting another car is likely the easiest option.  Best to buy a whole car to swap parts from.  Try www.car-part.com to see what years/models are compatible.

[Forester rear end noise]

Does it get more noticeable above a certain speed?  Usually wheel bearings start making noise about 30-40mph (at least mine did).  Apparently the Right Rear is the worse culprit on that model era.  (I've changed 3 of 4 on my '03 Forester)

[Inspection Hurdle]

You may already know this (readiness monitors not set)

 

https://dmv.ny.gov/brochure/what-do-you-mean-my-cars-not-ready

[Inspection Hurdle]

From another post

 

Subaru recommends the following conditions and drive cycle to get the monitors on its vehicles completed in the shortest amount of time:

1. Make sure the fuel tank is between one-quarter and three-quarters full; half a tank is ideal.

2. Start the engine and immediately drive the vehicle for at least 15 minutes at a speed greater than 50 mph. During the warmup, try to avoid sudden acceleration, hard braking and/or lane changes.

3. Drive the vehicle at a steady 55 mph for three more minutes. During this stage of the drive cycle, it's crucial that you keep throttle angle changes to a minimum.

4. Bring the vehicle hack to the shop, hook up the scan tool and look at the status of the readiness monitors. Repeat the drive cycle, if necessary.

[Replace Joint or Axel?]

In Salt Lake City: CV Axle Express sells a rebuilt [in house] OEM axle for $65. They have a good reputation and good service. They'll rebuild yours same day.

 

Too bad I don't still live in SLC 

[Replace 2.5 HG prophylactically ie before failure]

"Later 2000+ EJ25's are better as they usually don't randomly overheat but leak extenerally so they're easy to plan ahead for a repair and not get stranded.  so they're a better option for reliable, long term, high mileage commuting." 

 

Especially if you routinely check the oil and radiator for coolant level!

[Broken a/c belt tensioner]

I believe it is still plastic.  Many don't loosen the nut that holds the pulley before trying to adjust the long bolt and snap the plastic bits.  My dealer stocks them.  Dorman kit is a good option.

 

I take that back, since they say parts are powder coated the adjuster may be metal

[96 legacy L . Brake fluid leaking]

Its not leaking from the lines . Its squirting out from the middle of the caliper thing . I think thats what its called

 

Easy fix

[PLEASE HELP NOT TRYING TO SPEND $1200]

I work at a Subaru dealership. Adding extra keys is easy, but if there is no working key, it's a big deal. Towed to the dealer, ECU and sometimes gauge cluster removed, shipped to Subaru, wiped, shipped back, reinstalled, and reprogrammed. Yes, the bill is frequently 4-digits.

 

 

To the OP, I'm sorry this happened to you. I don't have another suggestion. If a good locksmith doesn't know a way, I doubt that there is one.

 

 

 

To everyone else. Let this be a lessen. You might be afraid of a $250 bill for an extra immobilizer key, but if you loose all the keys, you're in for a much bigger headache.

 

The idea of an immobilizer seems great, making cars extremely difficult to steal. But when you're the legitimate owner just trying to get a key, it's a huge pain.

 

So the takeaway is to buy two extra keys when you get one of these types of cars with the immoblizers?  What year did this become standard?

[96 legacy L . Brake fluid leaking]

Your turn signals could be the fuse (but I think the same fuse is for the turn signals/parking lights?) or the flasher.

[Cruise Control Not Working]

I love the search feature. Thanks guys. New rubber pad and vacuum line. Good as gold.

 

Thanks for using it!

[Idle Question on 1993 Impreza]

There is a reverse switch and a Neutral switch.  Both are on the side of the MT.  I seem to recall that the switches have different colored connectors but can't recall which one is which color.

 

It's the rear one

 

https://parts.subaru.com/a/Subaru__/49242870__6027485/MT--REAR-CASE/B11-120-01.html

[Buy wheel bearing from dealer expecting Koyo, get NTN]

Here's the video where the bolt is severely rusted:

 

 

Yeah that made me buy new stuff to have on hand and I needed it all.  I don't have a lift or air compressor so I definitely was glad to have seen how bad it could be.  Hand tools were not going to get mine apart.

[dash lights flashing gauges bouncing car hesitating surging - Alternator?]

Auto parts store alternators are not that good.  A used Subaru one is often better.

[oil changes]

The copper washers are even reusable indefinitely, if you anneal them between uses, that is.

 

Used to do that on airplane spark plug changes on small piston powered aircraft.  Now we just toss the $1,000 +igniter with the gasket in the trash for jet engines. 

 

http://www.skygeek.com/champion-ch34630-igniter.html?utm_source=googlebase&utm_medium=shoppingengine&utm_content=champion-ch34630-igniter&utm_campaign=froogle&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIpMmG-rCF2QIVj4zICh2tewouEAkYCSABEgLD6fD_BwE

[Opening a 2013 Outback Gas Door in an Ice Storm]

You could always spray some silicone spray on the edge of the door or even car wax would help.  The ice remover spray works great too.

[Buy wheel bearing from dealer expecting Koyo, get NTN]

Thanks guys.  After I posted this, I read on another forum that one person's opinion was that the NTN was higher quality than the Koyo, so all the comments are really appreciated. 

 

I DID buy a bearing removal/installation tool on Ebay which didn't arrive yet.  It allows you to leave the knuckle attached to the car.  That should be good if the tool works as it should.

 

Just make sure you push the bearing out in the correct direction.  An electric or pneumatic impact makes this job much easier!

[Oil Consumption 14 Forester]

The short and sweet version above by GD.

 

Here is the long version

 

https://subaru.oemdtc.com/80/engine-oil-consumption-2013-2015-subaru/4

[Outback]

According to this guy it was pre 2010 for the Outback

 

https://allwheeldriveauto.com/subaru-head-gasket-repair/

 

Main problem with these is that some get overheated multiple times and eventually have rod knock, usually after spending a bunch of $$$ or time replacing head gaskets.  If it was an SOHC engine it may be an external leak (oil or coolant).  The EJ25D (DOHC) engines were prone to exhaust leaks into the cooling system.

 

Best gasket to use is the Turbo one 11044AA770 from Subaru, its a Multi-Layer Steel gasket.

[04 Outback Cranks, fires, sputters, dies, bad communication with ECM]

If it's misfiring I would suspect plugs/wires/coil rather than an ECU but that's just my uneducated opinion

[Loud Power Steering Pump]

The O-Ring PN for the Elbow fitting is 34439FG000

 

https://parts.subaru.com/a/Subaru_2007_Impreza-Sedan-25L-AT-4WD/_54100_6027967/OIL-PUMP-PUMP-04MY-/G11-348-05.html

 

You may be able to remove the O-ring and take it to a parts store to match it rather than buying the $2 part from Subaru

[No spark on 2005 Forester sometimes]

Subies prefer OEM coils and NGK wires (not Durac*ap parts).

 

If its having trouble starting in cold weather it could be your coolant temp sensor since that adds fuel when its a cold start

 

Could also be a slipped timing belt (was your timing belt service done at 105k miles?)

 

That's just my uneducated opinion.

[Records Keeping]

Pretty much a state by state thing.  You can deduct those taxes on your IRS tax return.  According to the IRS (IIRC) they can go back 7 years to audit your return.  I believe if they can prove intentional tax avoidance they can go back forever.