talldude

How about an egr part# off a newer ea71, like an '80 or newer? Somebody?

Picked up front output seals from local dealer last year. they ordered them. Shingle Springs Subaru, CA

bump-can anyone else check theirs for a stamped part number?

Thanks. Same as mine; the list for shimming includes a bunch of OE part #s, but not that one, of course. Any other takers?

I ended up with 2 three wire connectors. One goes to the distributor: white, red, and green(shield to ground). Second goes to igniter control unit. Seems like every year has some different version of the igniter control unit, some differ by model; honestly I'm still trying to sort out the differences. My '78 BRAT had points but I am converting it over, so the points came out, replaced by the pickup coil assy, got rid of the big ballast resistor on the ignition coil and installed a non points (ea82) ignition coil. I am keeping the original igniter control unit for now but that also has a small ballast resistor in it, so I may end up changing that, too. Ballast resistor wires: black/red connects ign switch to + coil, black/white connects back to black wire similar guage in same bundle (this is if you remove the resistor). Hope this helps. Anyone else?

mounted on the back of the intake, passenger side of carburetor. Thanks much!

I bought a new EGR valve that came with a bunch of shims and a list of applicable Subaru OEM part #s that would tell me which shim to use for my '78 BRAT. Problem is, my old egr valve pn isn't on the list. Does anyone know the correct egr part #? Should be stamped on the body of the valve: APDQ72-something. Any help would be appreciated. The smog man awaiteth...

90 degree needle nose should do it, or small channel locks.

Whenever a bunch of things go wrong electrically, there is a chance you have a bad ground somewhere. Check all your ground wires/straps to make sure they are connected and that there is no corrosion or oxidization at the connection. Being old cars, even connected wires can have a lot of resistance and won't let enough electricity through.

Oops, meant to say that the clip falls off the connecting link when you squeeze the corners; it will pop off the ball easily once the link is disconnected.

If you can squeeze two adjoining clips usually it will pop off the ball, then gently squeeze the other 2 and it will fall right off. BTW, the clips aren't even on the dealer's IPB, so be careful or plan a trip to the wrecking yard.

Just for starters, those plastic pieces are no longer available, and wear out, and the shafts corrode inside, making them very hard to move (why wiper motors burn out). If you're lucky you'll be able to remove the mount nuts without turning the studs in the plastic. That done, you need to remove the plastic clip that holds the linkage to the shaft ball. It is just a matter of getting in there and squeezing the clips so it comes off the ball. It may be easier to unbolt the wiper motor assembly to move the whole thing around for access. I just went through this and ended up installing loyale wiper shaft assemblies. Different bolt pattern, sealed units, different on center dimension (I still have to cut and weld the connecting linkages). Not my favorite project, but it should all work out. Good luck with that...

If your truck has points, you need the ballast resistor (the big while ceramic block mounted on or near your coil). If you have electronic ignition (little module inside your distributor) then you don't need it. I'll try to find my schematic and fill in the gaps. Try to find a Mitchell or Subaru schematic for your specific year; it might help.

black and red with stripes look like they go to the ballast resistor and + on coil, yellow 2 connect to - on coil.

Put those stuck bolts through a few thermal cycles before you try again; a propane torch or the like (even a good heat gun), just on the bolt. It will heat the surrounding aluminum just enough to make those different coefficients of thermal expansion work for ya. Hardly ever fails.

Google '78 subaru wiring harness/diagram. I found a Mitchell schematic for the '78 BRAT that is pretty good.

The shocks fit- direct bolt on. The rubber bumpers and brackets must be cut off due to the angle of the shock and the trailing arms relieved a bit where the base of the shock sits. No idea how it will ride; should have this thing on the road in about 2 months or so.

Check the driver's side door for a non catalyst decal. Fed vehicles (at least the BRATs) will be non catalyst for that year. Maybe someone has further info on the wagons?

Any idea on manufacture and/or shipment dates? Also, those who choose not to pay Paul should forfeit their gen 1's to those who did

I finally broke out the calipers and tape measure to figure out once and for all what rear shock to use with the 4 inch body lift. I plan to lug some heavy stuff from time to time and am looking for a coilover to help the torsion bars a bit. So far the best option I have found is Monroe sensa-trac load adjusting shocks, the kind with the spring on the outside (like a coilover) that is designed for light trucks. Model 58568 measures 12.375" compressed to 19.875" extended (7.5" travel) with variable rate springs. Top and bottom mounts are compatible with the BRAT, according to the chart. I'll be ordering a pair tonight and will report back. On a different note, has anyone found manufactured brake hoses that will bolt in to the 4" lift? I may just have mine made locally if not.

You might consider a deadline for payment, after which open it up for other members to buy the rest of the order. I'd consider 2 or 3 more just to have on hand or sell later. More work for you, I know, but maybe get more $ coming in sooner...

Paid for one. Thank You, Paul. Daemon

They should sell us the mold, not destroy it...Sure wish we had that whole quantities of scale thing goin' on.

No rush here; Thanks for the footwork and please don't be afraid to add a couple bucks for your time and efforts. Can this company reproduce other rubber bits, like taillight gaskets, marker light gaskets, door seals?

This may be obvious, but I just realized a double universal joint won't work with a flexible rubber damper- too much monkey motion. I'll just plan to lengthen the steering rod and use the original single universal.