talldude

Consider rebuilding your engine. The book "How to keep your subaru alive" is very good guide and parts are not too hard to find. I have an ea71 in my parts truck that runs, but I'm down in NorCal...Could be a fun and rewarding project.

This one might be a better fit. http://www.ebay.com/itm/77-78-79-Subaru-GL-DL-Brat-1600-1800-Water-Heater-Control-Valve-Cable-OP-NORS-/321079248524?rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.m1851&_trkparms=aid%3D222002%26algo%3DSIC.FIT%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D163%26meid%3D6732691103664024605%26pid%3D100005%26prg%3D1088%26rk%3D1%26sd%3D300723733776%26

I bought a couple of these and they aren't exactly the correct pipe size for the old oem hoses, but pretty close. Might be the easiest route. http://www.ebay.com/itm/300723733776?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649

Check for fuel seepage at the carb; the float chamber may be losing fuel over time. I had a float level sight glass seep do this.

Bought these a few weeks ago, will fit 78-81 BRAT and 78-79 DL/GL, maybe others? I paid $50 so let's go with that plus USPS standard post from NorCal. Pics by email on request. PM if interested and your zip and I'll send total with shipping. No international unless you buy insurance. Thanks.

Our 97 impreza 2.2 would wear out spark plugs in 30k miles; once I let it go a little longer and got a misfire code at high rpm and manifold pressure. Check spark plug gaps first!

That looks like a gem! If she is giving you the car, borrow a truck and rent a tow dolly. Pick up the car, bring it home, overhaul the engine yourself. Lots of great resources here and if you do a careful job, the car will run forever, and pass smog. Don't get into engine mods unless you're willing to go see a referee. I just went through getting a stock ea71 smogged a few months ago, and it was pretty straightforward. If this car is as rust free as it looks, all your efforts will be worth it. Congrats!

cancel last post, found one, thanks.

I found quad headlights today but left them there because they'd be $55 or so out the door. The grill is wasted, not sure what reflectors you need. If I go back down I could get them. Shipping from CA might be a b*tch, but if you're game, let me know.

Stand down, found what I needed

Your clutch cable is either misadjusted or you have a bad clutch. Your cable adjustment is at the end of the clutch cable at the throwout fork. You'll see 2 nuts; 1 is a locknut and the other adjusts cable tension. I suggest getting a maintenance manual.

Check your clutch cable; make sure it's not frayed and that it is adjusted properly. Otherwise, sounds like a clutch problem. How new is the clutch?

'78 GL (quad headlight) front valance, reasonably straight and not rusted. Shipping to zip 95726. Thanks.

I know it's a long shot, but I'm thinking of converting my 79 BRAT (DL) front lights/grill to a GL. Already have the grill and headlight buckets, need a reasonably rust free/ not too hammered quad headlight front valance (sheetmetal below the grill behind the bumper) and the emblems for the grill. Shipping to 95726. I'd also consider trading the DL headlight parts including grill, buckets, and a rust free valance. Pics on request. Thanks!

I have a bumper only (not brackets) in fair condition but shipping from 95726 would probably be more than you'd want to spend. PM me if you're interested and we can go from there.

There's a thread on here for installing a Nissan Maxima alternator, too. I did this on the '78 and it was not difficult. It is internally regulated so you can do away with your external regulator. A bit of wiring but all in all worthwhile. Hopefully you have a wiring schematic- essential for every gen one owner, IMHO.

found my (new) rotor was loose on the shaft, and also the distributor advance plate was worn and sloppy which varied the air gap and probably timing a bit, too (shaft bushings were fine). Installed a good tight electronic distributor from my '79 parts truck and another new cap and rotor with some improvement. Vacuum diaphragm tests good both directions. Initial advance vacuum signal seems weak from the block but does work until the mechanical takes over, and the vacuum retard works quickly upon throttle closing. On engine deceleration I get popping out the exhaust when it's cold, but goes away after it warms up. The choke is set lean as is the idle mixture; maybe that is causing the backfire when cold. Timing is about 10 degrees at idle. Overall it is very driveable, just nothing like electronic fuel injection...Does anyone know how much vacuum should show for the ported advance when initially opening the throttle?

I stand corrected; I wonder if it makes any difference at idle speed. At the smog check they didn't plug any hoses, just shot it with the timing light at idle. Will this engine run better with an ea81 distributor? I read a comment somewhere that says the 2wd version has a better spark curve. Don't most of those also just have an advance vacuum?

'78 BRAT EA71: 8 degrees with all vacuum lines connected, +- 2. Smog tech doesn't disconnect anything to check the timing, just puts a light on the flywheel at correct idle and wants to see those numbers. I think that is not advanced quite enough either due to exhaust backfire when its cold and based on general engine performance. But I get detonation if I advance it any further (under high manifold pressure). I may have weak flyweight springs and am beginning to look for an alternative to the distributor:-\

Reshimmed the LSD: loosened the backlash and bearing preload slightly. Test drive today. Only noise is the snow tires and my kids farting.

yeah it would look a little better but we'll see how the ground clearance works out. Not sure the motor would be happy turning anything taller. Already reconsidering an EJ18 or 22

OK, here it is, after 3 years of part time tinkering and a push over the summer- our truck is finally on the road! I wasn't able to post decent pics as I went so below is the link to build up pics. Basically I bought a basketcase '78 that had been sitting under an oak tree for 15 years and ended up going through everything. It has been a lot of work (and fun) and now we have a daily snow driver and no truck payment! Many thanks to everyone here who offered advice, knowledge, and parts. Anyone who wants to see how far they can get up Mormon Emigrant Trail this winter let me know. I've got a buddy with a Baja Bug who would also be in. http://s1289.photobucket.com/albums/b501/dedwards16/

Engine is a stock '84 bored 2 mm with new heads, electronic ignition and internal VR alternator out of a Maxima. Everything else is stock. Rear coilover shocks are Monroe Sensatrac #58568. This fits the 4 inch lift with removal of the bumper and a little bit of relieving of the swingarm. So far they have given a good ride and should allow for a bit of payload.

OK, finally just about finished with our pickup, thanks in no small part to this great forum. I never did see how to post decent pics on this site, so here's a link to pics and a short description of the build. Many thanks to all who helped with advice and parts! http://s1289.photobucket.com/albums/b501/dedwards16/

What are your plans for this? Does it have sentimental value? (other than being an old Subie) I grew up in Maine and saw a lot of this and then moved to CA and couldn't believe the great shape old cars were in. From this perspective, I would salvage what parts I could and get another without cancer. I just put a few hundred hours into fixing a west coast BRAT with much less rust than this. I think you will find it goes much deeper than it appears. But if you just want to drive it until the wheels fall off, that sounds good, too! Come out West and see what we have. I'll buy you that brew:drunk: