ruparts

Hi, I am interested to upgrade the brakes on my 84 wagon to EA-82 parts from a turbo wagon. i think the rear is pretty straight forward just switch out the backing plates and calipers, rotors. I know the bigger front calipers do not mount to the orig knuckles so i have to ask for your help here. can and i switch the knuckles to the ea-82 ones and how will this change the front end, will the original tie rods line up or will i need to do something there? will i need ea-81 axle shafts with ea-82 outer joints or what would be needed there? next the ea81 struts have springs that are centered around the strut,both top and bottom, but ea-82 struts have the spring offset to the outside on the bottom perch and centered on the top, so does this still work if i use the ea-81 top hats on ea-82 struts and be good ? If anyone has done a front like this could you lay it out for me ? any and all information for this is greately appreciated. thank you for the help!

<P> </P><P> </P> <P> </P> <P> hi, i think you have to take the entire dash off cause those vents are screwed onto it from the underside, i took several apart a few yrs ago and that seems like what i remember. also the vents that face into the passenger compartment on the main part of the dash are screwed onto the dash from behind if i remember right. i wanted to replace those ones cause they always seem to be messed up. i'm sure you will get an answer about it for sure though. sorry but i think it is not as easy as you hoped. </P>

Hi, I cant help on the axle but if you just let the car down and it has not moved then the camber will look way off, you'll need to roll it back a couple of feet and then back to let the tires move to the outside and then look at the camber, if it is still way off then , i don't know. just an idea from looking at mine after a wheel change or any time i jacked it up, the camber always looks way off till rolled some. Good luck on the axles.

hi, i did a search for this and a lot of information came to light, but the exact question i have i missed. What is the way to get at the cable pin on the pedal, and the mounting screws too, being behind that auxillery spring assembly and all. do i need to pull the instrument cluster and work there ? looking from the bottom it seems impossible . this is 87 4-dr sedan, I know there must be a easy way, several threads i read said it was easy, i don't see how to get at the pin . a person about 10 inches tall would be handy to climb in there and work. if you can , let me know how this is accessed. that auxillery spring thing looks like something to not take apart for sure. Thanks!

Hey, OK , Thank you for looking that up, at least now i know they'll fit my wagon.

Hi, i have a pair of front control arms from a 80 model 2-wd coupe, I need to know if these the same as a 84 4x4 wagon?? obveously they look the same , but are they? anyone have a parts book going back to 80, mine is only ea-82 cars. thank you

hi, thank you for the help, i now have a enginebut a couple of little questions. 1, what did you do to close off the water tube from the thermostat housing that goes back to the turbo? 2, did you modify a spfi intake tube or would it be easier to find a mpfi intake tube setup ? just a few vacuum / pressure hoses to sort out and i think everything else is ok. Thanks again for your help

hi, the car is a 87 sedan with ea82t /5-spd, heads are not good, so i was wondering if putting a N/A mpfi in where a 82t was supposed to be would work ok? i know the computer is some different , and other parts like intake plumbing , exhaust. would the maf sensor be ok, anyone tried this ? i have all the parts needed except heads for a mpfi engine. any "good" mpfi heads for sale? just looking for a easier fix for this one. Thanks, jim

hi, i did not find a source for the rear glass on xt, except the dealer, it was $$$, the front is probably available aftermarket. the xt has a different tint than xt6, so watch for that. i had 2 rear glass for xt and one for xt6, i removed and stored, i think they are still around. if you decide to replace them. the rear and front are a real PITA to remove as all the trim has to come 0ff and some of them are a pita also, probably break or bend some, and the windshield wiper assembly has to remove, another pita, all in all they are hard and tedious to replace. Good luck on it, keep us posted

The earlier cars you could access the area you need from the rr wheel well, just remove the wheel and a sheet metal cover, the fill pipe right there, worth a look

Hi, last time i took my 88 rx in for inspection i had high readings similar to yours, it failed. I had done all the regular tune up stuff the p[revious year and it had passed fine. but I went ahead and put new wires and plugs. but the real thing that I feel fixed it was the O2 sensor, and I verified the EGR valve was operating. I think the O2 sensor was the real cure for my readings, and this is not the first car done this way. I had another one that all i did was take it to insppect, it failed likewise, o2 sensor was all i did to it , shaped right up and passed. the EGR valve must be operational and the tubes and passages from head and in the intake not clogged up which happens sometimes if an engine has been run with a too cool thermostat for a long time which causes excess carbon buildup, motors need the heat to maintain proper A/F mix. also too cool thermostat can cause the fuel inject to think the engine is not warm enough and runs a little rich to make up for it, just like during warm up period from a cold start. just to add to what has been posted already. LOL

Hi, I once had a 87 turbo sedan, and this happened. I found out the ground side of the fuel pump circuit is grounded in the engine computer somewhere inside it, I didn't look. I just took the ground side of the plug that goes to the pump and cut it and grounded it to the body near the pump. My hot side was still good. I hate to ask but when you tested for power at the pump plug did you also ground the other leg somewhere at that time, if not, you may not have a good reading, you would need to ground the other leg to see any power from the hot wire, if you test at the pump plug. ALSO ! The hot side does not stay hot with the switch on, only a couple of seconds, you would need to do the green connector thing and then test as it cycles on and off every few seconds. check again as it is not too common to lose the hot side, also check the fusible links by the battery and proper fuses under the dash. Hope you get it going

hi, The vents are screwed to the dash from the forward side, have to remove the dash to get at the screws. try removing the vent tubes from under the dash, they just slip off and could help. the vent closest to the instruments is made into the instrument surround, the others across are one piece I believe, and put on before the dash goes in the car. I have taken several apart but these are a misery to do, mine are falling apart but i just don't want to go there.

Look for vacuum leaks, Ignition timing is important, be sure to set it with the test coccectors connected. also check the airthing on top of thermostat outlet is working. a bad o2 sensor can cause rich mixture. bad egr can upset idle.

Hi, I am confused on the gear ratios in the single range fulltime AWD for ea82 and xt6, and dual range fulltime AWD trans for the rx. my 88 fsm's shows the single range fulltime awd ratios are the same in ea82's, as in the xt6 sr/ft awd transmission. my question, is that correct? not talking diff ratio, talking 2nd, 3rd, 4th, 5th gears, 1st is the same it says. next question, is the Hi side of the fulltime awd dual range trans also the same as the single range fulltime awd? I'm reading they are. my books seem to show they are, but am i reading this correctly? I know all these ratios are different than the selective 2-4wd, the d/r selective 2-4wd and the 2wd. I want to know or verify if all the single range fulltime awd trans, have the same higher ratios, but they had 3.7diff and xt6 had 3.9diff. also is the Hi range in the dual fulltime awd this same ratios? again i'm reading it is, but what is your view on it? I hope that someone has some knowledge on this. thanks for any help here.

Hi, Just so you know there are 2 sizes diameter stub axles, on ea transmissions, therefore there are 2 sizes of joints that fit on them, so if you install the larger size on the smaller stubs then there is SLACK as you mention. so do check if this may be the issue. from what I read the larger joints will fit and drive the car but the splines will give it up soon enough. lol

Hi, I can see the fuel management may not be up to the task. I can't go into aftermkt systems to do stuff so without that I guess boost is not a good way to go. Well ok there is a vf39 with 22k for 200 in dallas craiglist, (autoparts) if any interest, has some other stuff too, not mine and I don't know them. maybe a moderator could post it, I can't. thank you for the discussion and opinons, this was a spur of the moment inquiry, real power is in 4-valve and dual cam and boost, all ej stuff. Could a 6 cyl ecm be modified to adjust its output to allow for forced induction, the ea82T does, as mentioned but for 4 cyl, So could a 6cyl ecm be modified to do whatever the 4's do? the number of cyls is not part of what figures the fuel ratio, they receive almost all the same type inputs, except manifold pressure, we only want to remap the fuel a bit. seems that some components in there could be changed or added to or ?? any electronics experts here? thanks

Hi, Thanks i understand what you are saying there, but i have lots of this and none of the ej stuff, so i want to make use of what i have. just interested to make a bit more power but not to a point of breaking parts, just moderate boost, like the ea's could take. i can get a good deal on a vf39 they were on 2.5 so wouldn't that be fine for 2.7 , like i say not planning to push it hard. thanks

Hi, I can get a good deal on a vf39 turbo but I want to ask if this unit is too much or otherwise undesireable for our 1.8 engines. but mainly I wondered if it would be a good choice for a er2.7 build-up, I have enough 1.8 turbo pistons to swap them into the 2.7 I just want to ask if the vf39 would do a good job and give good performance on a 2.7 size engine, obveously need custom pipes made but that is understood. I would not be looking to make it into a race car but looking for maybe 200 or so HP, stock parts can only take so much and I would want to stay in the safe range. advise is appreciated. thanks

Hi, I was reading some about this lube mix, and was wondering is it good for the Rear LSD type diffs too? most of what I saw was in reference to transmissions, and the diff in them is open. I guess it would be the same except for the clutches in the rear diff, and I know you are supposed to use special lsd lube in them. anyone have it in their unit and opinions? Thanks

Hi, thanks a lot for the help, i did ggoogle for it but i didn't see it. have a great day

Hi,, i had to replace my computer and have lost the address to the xt6 site, i hope someone here would post a link to them, also thanks for all the good work all of you put in. thanks

Hi, I can tell you for sure, the clutch disc rust stuck to the flywheel, I have a truck that does this alot from sitting and no use. all the water you went through, it was warm, rust stuck it, if you crank it in gear it moves right, push the clutch pedal it still goes, the disc is stuck to the flywheel. On my truck the clutch is accessable from a lower cover, I remove it, prop the clutch pedal down, and use a cake frosting spreader to slip between the disc and flywheel, never fails. Only you can't do that on a subaru, so if it happens again you maght try cranking the car in gear, get going, and then hit the brakes to pop it loose( with the clutch pedal depressed of course) so it can pop loose. If that don't work you might have to pull the engine or trans to allow access to it. Stay out of deep water or drive long enough to dry it out. Best luck

Hi, I want to ask about doing a 5 bolt swap on my gl-10, it is 4x4 with disc rear, do I just take the big nut off and put on the 5 bolt flanges, or is it a little more involved? I know some of you have done this and know what is needed, Thanks for any help.

Hi, I am interested to do a 5 lug swap on my gl-10, it is a 4x4 with disc brakes. Can I just take the big nut off and put the 5-bolt hub flanges on, or is it more involved than that? I know some of you have done this and know the drill. I want to know what is involved before I start so maybe I won't have surprises and delays once started. Thanks all