ruparts

Hi, I guess you know that you can't just squeeze the piston back in, yopu must turn it clockwise back in. just in the case you did not know this

hi, the sensor that turns on the fan is not the same one that works the temp guage, temp guage sender is on the back side of the intake manifold.

hi, its a vacuum line solonoid valve, the end of the line that broke is electrically controlled by it, i think this one just dumps to atmosphere under the black cap. i think you can plug the end of the hose and be ok, as it is you have a open hose end. replace it if you can get a good used one, they are about 150. from subaru and most aftermarket is not much better.

hi, i think that trans did come out in the 87-1/2 version, not sure on the seatbelts, ithought that was in 88 but the late 87 could have. just code the vin number , that is easy and if the door jam one is in question the one underhood is stampped in the body, can't change that one.

Hi, i just swapped in 82 red face guages in my 84 wagon, the plugs were not the same for those two,, the circuit boards in back are different, for different years, and that is what the plug ins are on, and the main guage housing is different too, i noticed that light holes are different and holes to clear circuitry on the boards are different, definately not just plug and play, even to do the simple mod i did. the 84 white face guages have a ecs light onthe bottom of the tach face. here is the deal, the housings are almost alike, as are the back panels, but each year has its own way to fit together correctly. even the hi beam indicator is different in the way it is lit between them. i used my main housing, my circuit board, all the guages from the 82 installed in that, except my original odometer, used red tint backlight bulbs, so now my cars original plugs go to the original circuit panel board and with red face guages, and red backlight. my feeling is that you have to pin each year different, the plugs might fit on but what it connects to is not the same year to year. they just switched them around some.

I agree too, its not worth it, i have taken maybe a dozen dash assemblies off and out of the car apart, it is not an easy job, putting one back is a job i hope i don't have to.

HI, I think you need to replace the oxygen sensor, at least do a voltage test to see if it in responding, should send a ("variable, back and forth")dc voltage signal of about .3 to .9 volt, that is a percentage of 1 volt, back and forth. this is with the engine at running temp. if it does not then its dead.

hi, i am pretty sure they run on a reduced voltage, i cant remember but i think about 5v. maybe someone that is sure about that can jump in. the xt has a dropping resister pack near the strut tower. and i know i read this lower voltage thing in a fsm some time ago.

hi, i have had a few that someone slipped on 180 off, the hole is close enough to get some of the pin through, so they just hammer it home. gets really wedged in there and makes a kink too, miserable. i never had trouble with one that was original parts , installed correctly.

hi, i thought modern led lights operate on less than 12v .

hi, i think the shim you are refering to is a part of the backing plate shield. as for the pads they sit in some metal spring clips that holds them in place within the carrier, they just float in that position. the easy way is remove the lower bolt,( not the mounting bolts) pivot the caliper up, screw the piston back in, and load the pads in the carrier and pivot it all back down over the rotor.

hi, from your low diff oil, and my friends experience with his gl 3at, your diff is shot. his got so bad finally it would back up, but lock solid trying to go forward, the trans still shifted fine till then. find a used unit that is known good and swap them, is the least expensive way.

hi, you need to keep the o2 sensor, the cts, if its multi port you need to keep the knock sensor. the throttle pos sensor, the afm, the crankcase venting. i have a car that i blocked egr function at the heads and it runs fine, so that system can go, but leave the electricals it has solenoids and vavuum tubes involved that i left intact, or it throws a code. i guess you are using the ea car computer. if using a carburetor that is not computer controlled , go for all you want except crankcase venting .

hi, the bushings you want are subaru# 21342 GA020 , they are the same on all the ea 82 series cars , the ones they need to know the size bar, are the inner ones on the crossmember and they have different diameter holes for the different dia bars.

hi, I thought all the SR awd trans had a 3.7 drive ratio, except the xt6 , it had 3.9 ratio. is that not right?

hi, the decoder i'm reading shows these numbers to be a 4x4 turbowagon with auto trans and air suspension. 1987

hi, the belt timing is set with the crank in a position that is not with #1piston at TDC. there are some pics in the fsm that might help. if i find something i will post it. but TDC only is relavent to the ignition , if you have not moved the distributor do not move it , especially don't lift it out. without the proper flywheel marks you only need to locate the correct position and then set the belts, if belts are right ign should then be pretty close, enough to run, if it has'nt been moved.

hi, i have had several ea-81 vehicles that the clutch cable seemed hard to push and in every case it went away once the cable failed and was replaced with a new factory one.

Hi, i want to put in a penny's worth, be sure to replace the rear main seal and the block cover gasket ( if your engine has that ) located beside the rear main seal. also be sure to save all the brackets for clutch cable and accelerator cable, and you may find different electrical connectors for backup lights and others on the manual trans than your auto. good luck with it.

hi, i want in the spring thing, the ea 81 and ea 82 springs are not the same, and the upper seats are a lot different. Ea-81 front springs have a chopped off coil on both ends, so they are not flat on either end, and the upper spring top is made for that style, also the center hole is different from ea-82. they came standard with 134lb/in and 146 lb/in on turbo cars in 83-84, also the turbo ea-81 spring is made from larger diameter wire than the standard ea-81 springs ( the same size as the ea-82 springs ) again ea-81 springs are not flat on either end. the EA-82 springs have a chopped end coil on bottom and a taperflat cut on top, so they are flat on top, and the upper spring hats are for that style, and the center hole is different from ea-81. these are 134 lb/in standard and rx is 146 lb/in, xt6 is 170 something. i have taken apart struts that have parts mixed together so stuff will assemble incorrectly and run . i have recently been swapping a lot of struts and have taken a bunch apart is how i noticed the differences.

hi, they only show 2 different ones for these cars, as far as i know, just get the other one, and of course you will need that little screw.

I dont have a picture of one but the hitachi distributor has a cap that is screwed on and the rotor has a hole in the side of it to put a screw into the shaft to hold it in place, that is what your asking right? does your distributor shaft have a small threaded hole in the side near the top. the other type rotor for ND has a flat side and no screw to hold it on.

hi, i had a similar experience with my 87, fine on short runs but at sustained hiway speeds it would go up some , to almost hot. I had installed a new thermostat, so i changed it back, problem gone . the one i had put in had a smaller total flow hole, (main opening) than the one i put back. so aftermarket thermostats are not all created equal, or equal to OEM. also ignition timing is important at higher speeds.

hi, you did not mention which vehicle was the doner car for the rear brakes, but there are at least 3 different rear caliper variations used on EA-82 vehicles, the caliper piston diameter that is. they all fit the same and same pads, so you would not notice it, xt6 is smallest and wag-sedan is largest, if you are using the smaller piston calipers you can reduce the effective rear braking force some by using the larger piston version caliper. this might be easier than fitting valves inline and worth a try first, they are a direct fit and pads everything. might be the difference you need to lighten up the rear clamping force just a little.

hi, you need to use a mpfi to allow the fuel injection to function, the turbo is mpfi and all the wiring and injection is for mpfi. that part you want to retain, you can use a spfi short block and put mpfi heads on it and that will work, but it needs mpfi heads on whatever engine you put in so the orig injection system stays intact. unless you want to re-wire the car for spfi, i would not advise that.