Mantis_Toboggan

No problem man! Just buy me beer! I collect dents/flat tires/flat mufflers at least once a week. I'm always down to see how far the stock susp. can take me! :cheers:

Yep! Lot's of wheelin, lots of people goin up there to shoot, etc. EDIT: Oh wait, there are restrictions, street legal and licensed, no quads.

Yeah, I'm curious about this spring issue. I don't want stiffer springs for my wagon if I go offroad. Maybe a pair of two inch collars will do? Btw, I went into the monroe catalog today and found a few alternate struts: This table is in comparison to an '86 GL. **In regards to compression measurements, this DOES NOT mean that it compresses more. It means that the compressed strut is this much longer than the stock compressed strut.** PART__Lngth_Comp___Ext___Trav____Year / Model / Pos / mounting kit# 71202 +2.75 +2.625 +4.750 +2.125 :: 85-90 / vw cabrio / rear / 901966 71205 +1.25 +2.500 +3.625 +1.125 :: 90 / dodge omni / rear / 901952 71230 +2.50 +2.500 +4.625 +2.125 :: 87-90 / toy tercel / rear / 901984 All of these struts have the same design, even the same strut rod diameter and thread (M10x1.5)

I have monroe's data catalog for shocks/struts. They include bushing types, body length, extended length, compressed length, travel. If you can cross the Rancho number to a monroe number, I think I might be able to dig something up for you.

I'm gonna be rebuilding my carb tomorrow, but on wed. I totally want to go up to exit 38. I've got a bone to pick with a sharp boulder a few miles up the mountain.

Like I said before, this is a tentative guide. Actually, I'm about to start working on the tire rub issue. I actually made note of it in one of my earlier posts. I'm thinking longer lower control arms instead of offset upper strut mountings will be the solution. This will push the front tires away from the frame rails, the problem is, I think there will need to be longer cv's and inner tie-rods. But, see, that's a whole different issue, it addresses what type of lift you have.

Haha yeah, there are definitely variations between manufacturers. But this is one of the reasons why it is a tentative calculation. Perhaps I should go back through the mess to make scalars that are easier to work with. I think I'll draw up some diagrams to work with tomorrow. Anybody on here a programmer? We totally could make a USMG tire calculator. ~EDIT AGAIN~ Proper lifts make the tires too big for the wheel wells (without trimming). since my subie is still stock, I will take radius calculations to see how much material must be removed from the leading and trailing edges of the fenderwell to make things ride like they were when they were stock. I also have ideas on minimising the tire rub at max steering lock. God I love math!

I'm heading up to exit 38 now.

~EDIT~ For offroad tires with sizes like 31x10.5, you only need to divide the first number in half. example: 31 is the overall tire height, so it's radius is 15.5 inches. To equip this tire, you need to lift your car by 15.5-9.05 = 6.45in

I think I may have a tentative answer to tire sizing per lift. This is a rough guide on how much lift you will need to fit relative to original clearance. There are of course exceptions, but this guide should maximise your articulation. STEP ONE: Radius of original tire package: Details: carcass width/percent sidewall/rim size Directions: take the carcass width, multiply by sidewall percent, divide by two, convert quantity to inches, and add to rim size divided by two. Here's a working example: 185/70/13 185(.70) = 129.5mm This is how much of the tire is sidewall, because the sidewall exists on both sides, divide by two. (129.5)/2 = 64.75mm This is how much your sidewall lifts the rim above the ground, also how much your tire projects above the rim, under the fenderwell. Convert this quantity to inches: (64.75mm)/(25.4(mm/in)) = 2.55 inches Add this quantity to the rim diameter divided by two 13/2 = 6.5in Total projection of tire and wheel package above axle towards fender is: 9.05in **This is the initial value** Do the same calculations for the larger tire you would like to equip, and take the difference (new package vs. stock package). This will tell you how much more radius the new package takes up. You will need to lift your chassis by this much to retain the stock suspension articulation.

I think I'll hit up I-90 exit 38 tomorrow. I went up tinkham yesterday but turned around when I ran into snow. I figure the trails on Exit-38 get more sun in the warmer part of the day, thus less snow. Anybody up for a little adventure?

Yeah, I got stuck yesterday afternoon. About all I can afford to do right now is disconnect the swaybars, lol. What are the "requisites" to prep my GL for Walker? Do they have a "kiddie pool" I could use the experience on some easy areas.

Don't really have any good pics yet. Been going solo thus far. Here's a little vid of me on my second adventure

I've got a stock '86 GL 4x4 that I've been taking up to tinkham road and exit 38 just about every week for the past few months. I've picked up a few dents and high centered her a few times now. Looking to go wheelin with some people that are more experienced than me. Plus I need some tech info on a few things; Carb swap engine swap lift kits Anyways, lookin forward to chattin and wheelin with you guys!