Mantis_Toboggan

lol, what was I thinking! Thanks man! You can barely see my wheelin' dent on the rear passenger door. Can't wait to lift this thing.

Starting with this: In addition to removing the bumper and grill, I also took the passenger fender off to straighten out some sheet metal. Made my own wiring harness which turns the amber part of the side marker into a turn signal, while also turning the turn signal into a running light. Yellow part now blinks running light installed in turn signal Drilled and bolted up some L brackets for the foglights. They ground through the bumper, I'm thinking of running some wire from the brackets to the battery. Done!

um.. mustang dash?

Do you worry about the swaybar getting in the way while it's disconnected? Perhaps rotating its arms upward and fashioning a hook to hold it out of the way would be good?

LOL! INTERNET!! Take it easy guys! You could do it that way, but if you don't brace them, you gotta tighten those bolts pretty hard. That can cause problems in a few ways. If you super-tighten those bolts, they have give more in extreme cross-stressing due to being deformed more from the tightening. Also, if you're going through some tough ruts and your car gyrates suddenly from one direction to the other, you could push those offsets into a different angle. There's a good chance none of that will happen, but it's possible. Bracing them together allows for more of the energy to be transferred through the bracing struts instead of the bolts: Greater stability and peace of mind. I recommend bracing the blocks.

So this is the EGR nipple? What the hell is this nipple for? Does this particular vacuum port have anything to do with the EGR? Or is it just in the same proximity.

Well, the nice thing about 302's were that they had a shorter stroke, so they could handle more extreme cams and would scavenge better. But yeah, small V8's aren't practical for the street. Well, except maybe a 3L flat 8.

I only mention the 305 because it never made as much power as the 302. And those 882 heads.. horrid

I can help you if you've still got trouble.

Yeah, I knew my hitachi was on the fritz, and a poor design for the kind of person I am. I just figured I'd try spending $30 on a rebuild kit and a fuel filter before I reached in the coffers for a Weber. Haha, I would've nailed it if I didn't use that damned rtv. :bang: I've gotta chase down some vacuum problems tomorrow. This thing idles like my old racecar!

:EDIT: Nevermind, I searched weber vacuum, found most of what I need. When I was working out the kinks in my setup this afternoon, I noticed that the idle changed when I plugged up the air injection/silencer hoses. These are normally connected to the air cleaner. I'm curious as to the specifics of this function. Also, I've currently connected them to the vacuum break. Funny thing about that, I ended up creating the vacuum break by accident, due to the small selection of T-fittings at the local parts store. lol

lol GD So you're basically saying that the EA82 engine is like the chevy 305?

The weber that I bought had the vent port undrilled and untapped. Is this normal? How many of you guys drilled and tapped the casting to accommodate the vent? Also, if any of you guys have pics or diagrams of how you routed your PCV and EGR, I'd like to see those.

Haha, nah, more like pulling some turbo heads at a junkyard. I didn't know that EA82 n/a heads were prone to cracking, that's good to know though. I was thinking about getting those turbo heads because they flow better and have larger cams. Then port-match the intake manifold, maybe do some work on the short side radius. This kind of work is right up my alley.

Anybody hear of anybody else running turbo heads on an N/A EA82?

Funny how hitachi rebuilds turn into weber conversions, isn't it?

Enlighten me then. How do I go about finding this information?

Bellevue, I'm not a yuppie! I swear!

How did you do the install? I hear that some springs need to be clocked in their perches. Got any pics of the struts with the wheels off?

Thanks for your help man!

Yeah well, I'm new to this whole thing. Just got the wagon in December so this is my first season. Btw, this is NOT Olallie state park, I just used that designation to get me to the exit 38 access roads. This is where I'm talking about.

Fuel pump harness is fine, triple checked that. So I went over the wiring diagrams for a while, followed the wires out. I've isolated the blue wire from the harness and the motor turned over without popping a fuse. It seems the blue wire is connected to the auto choke.

So I'm testing the Fuel pump relay now. I've ran some intermediate wires from the harness to the relay, I've placed all except for the wire that goes to the relay. The fuse pops when the relay minus fuel wire is connected.

Yeah. Well, If the fuel pump connector is the only piece disconnected, the light does not light up. When it is reconnected, the circuit lights up. If I disconnect the fuel pump connector, and turn the motor over, with the fuel pump relay connected, the fuse pops. Now, if I have the fuel pump relay disconnected and turn the motor over, no fuse problem. So Yeah, it looks like the problem is between the fuel pump relay, and the harness that attaches it to the fuel pump, or the fuel pump herself. When I was under there, it looks like the pump sits on a metal plate that is isolated by rubber bushings, is this for vibration or for circuit isolation? Here's what I've done so far: Added new wire to harness: Coil side: Firewall side: Fuel pump relay connector: Connect alternate circuit: Splice into new wire from harness, firewall side: Protect circuit, and tap into fuse panel ground:

hmm, well it goes across the road, there aren't any ways around it.