Mantis_Toboggan

So I plugged the relay back in, unplugged the fuel pump and turned her over. Fuse popped. I've taken the dash out and the driver fender to put a new wire in the harness (coil to fuse box). I think I'm going to build it as a separate circuit and test the functions before I start splicing into the factory harness.

I go up there all the time, take a few google maps with me when I do. It's got some creeks you can drive through and some trails have washed out roads. The views can be nice, and some spots pose challenges for a stock wagon.

Hmm, so you think I should put in a new fuse, then check the fuel pump connector? So if everything is connected, except the fuel pump connector, and I test the "blue/red", it should not light up. If it does, I may still have a short? I wonder if it's the relay that's gone bad.

UPDATE: I started working on the connector to the fuel pump relay (rev). The only prongs that did not light up were the yellow prong and the black/white prong. The blue/red prong lit up. I disconnected the fuel pump and checked again, blue/red did not light up. So it looks like it's the fuel pump.

Yeah sorry, it was late, haha. It is an EA82 that I'm working on. I began test-lighting at the coil end (fuse out/blown), and checked each wire on the positive end. disty, ok condenser, ok fuse#11, bad Then I went back inside and took the power supply wire from my off road lights, and checked the fuse slot. The black/white wire lit up, so I disconnected the fuel pump relay, and checked that, no light. Also no light when I try #11 fuse again, unless I plug the harness back into the fuel pump relay. I'm gonna try a few more things..

drill bracket for 1/2?

I'm popping fuse #11. I own an '86 gl wagon, and I was tinkering around with this damned carb when the motor stopped firing up. Ign. coil/fuel pump relay fuse was blown, so I replaced it and turned the motor over, fuse popped again. I checked the coil and capacitor by swapping both parts onto my EA81, the motor fired right up, no problem. Sounds like I have a short somewhere. Think it might be the fuel pump relay (rev)? I don't know if this is a common failure or not. Btw, the fuel pump relay is bolted up just under the steering wheel and it has a mitsubishi symbol on it. It looks like someone has been inside this dash before.

There was an engine company in cali that only sold the turbo longblocks, I was wondering why. Any engine swapping that I'm gonna do on this car is going to be a direct swap, I don't want to deal with the hassle of adding F.I.

Yeah, I figured as much, worth asking though. I'm not new to getting my hands dirty, I actually have a lot of experience swapping motors and upgrading, but I was raised on F.I. So this is my first time with carbs. I actually took a LOT of pics of this carb during my first and second rebuild. I started off with a hygrade (standard) rebuild kit and went to town on that ***************. It ran great the first time, until the rtv dissolved and plugged everything up. It's totally one of those ridiculous absent minded moments. :mad:

Yeah, I had to cut a few gaskets after the second take-apart. Anybody have any pics of their carbs assembled? Preferably from with the air cleaner off and a rear view of the carb (from the spare tire well towards the front of the car), that'd be super helpful!

Anybody in the seattle area have an EA82 with a working hitachi? I just want to make sure I have everything routed the way it should be. If I were to convert to a weber, I will need a new airbox? Do I still use the bowl vent emissions stuff?

I have an EA82 w/ the hitachi 2bbl. First mistake, I took it off to rebuild it. Second mistake, I used rtv on the gaskets. So when I put it back together the first time, the damn thing was running great! Then it developed a leak between the throttle body and carb mid-section. It was a really hardcore leak, fuel was pouring out on the outside, and there were gas puddles on top of the butterflies. When I took it apart, the bowl vent and air control vacuum valve were full of gas. So I've taken it apart and tried to do as good a job cleaning the damned thing as I can, put it back together and stuck it on the car. Now, when the car is running, it's dumping gas into the primary venturi. I'll attach a video. So I'm wondering if some rtv got itself suck in some bleed passage, blocking flow to the idle circuit and overflowing the bowl, or if the gas in the emission lines... I dunno, something.. I'm not versed in carburetors. HELP HELP HELP!

Wow man, lol. When you had the ride cranked up all the way, did you have problems with running into full strut extension? There's a guy in another thread that put honda springs on his rig and it was blowing out his rear struts.

Aside from the obvious, is the compression different? Are the heads different?

Where should I start for the idle mixture screw? Fully close and back out 3 turns?

I have a timing light. I pulled back my timing to 6 BTDC and still ran into ping on the highway at near off-idle throttle. A carb rebuild kit and a fuel filter will probably take care of that ping though.

I'd get a reman EA82 engine, driver headlight, passenger turn signal and running lamp, perhaps pay a buddy to make me a nice bumper. I'm really tired of my front main seal pissing oil all over the place.

Hmm, here's another inconsistency.. This is my stock front strut, ride adjustable: This is the KYB replacement, fixed spring perch:

Thanks for the idea vato! So according to KYB, this is what the stock units look like. Which is strange because this is what mine look like, I think they're adjustable. This is what the tercel strut looks like in KYB: vw cabrio struts:

Yeah, I went under my GL yesterday and snapped some shots of the stock pieces. When I get my carb back together and not leaking, I'm gonna run to the local parts warehouse and physically check the designs.

I think Monroe p/n 71230 will work. It's off a 90 tercel, so it's probably a soft shock, the strut rod is the same diameter and thread as stock. The only thing I haven't checked out about it is the spring mount.

Man, you're crazy, that's some dangerous ************! I think it would be best (and safest) to make an aluminum collar to sit on the spring perch, lifting the spring relative to the strut.

Hey Markus, did you make that bumper yourself? How's it mounted?