Setright

I run Potenza RE720'ies for summer and cannot complain in any department. They are standing up well to the abuse I put them through. Even wear, no rounding of the outside shoulders. Done about 20k miles and will last that much again I reckon. And to be honest, that's plenty for a good tyre. Higher wear "resistance" will tend to degrade grip. Yokohama's are top notch for dry,warm grip, but tend to wear really fast. Potenza 720ies strick a very good compromise in this respect. I used to be a real Michelin fan - also for my bicycle - but lately their products seem to have lagged behind. Of course the products I am talking about the ones to be found on this side of the "pond"

Mix before pouring it in!

Yep, make sure you bleed and re-bleed the system. I can take many miles, like hundreds. Even if all you do is drain the system, nevermind taking the heads off.

The engine will run fine with a busted cam angle sensor. If the crank angle sensor goes at the same time, THEN you have problems. These sensors tell the ECU the same thing, if one fails, it is ignored.

Insurance companies do business in some strange ways. When I was looking for insurance for my present car, I was dumb enough to admit that I had a claim within the last three years. HOWEVER, the company didn't care 'cause it was a company car, without me as a named driver. Basically, they didn't give a toss if I was a lousy driver, as long no claims had been made on my own insurances. I think they regard the premiums as a savings account. Saving for when you need the money. There doesn't appear to be much risk-evaluation worked into the premium. By the way, the claim was a low speed parking lot thing, summer tyres during an icy winter. Company policy to save money - "What do we need winter tyres for?"

One of my tappets clicks occasionally on cold mornings. Just air in the tappet I guess, I wouldn't tear down the head for that, especially since your tappet is quiet again. Anyway, it should be possible to remove the tappet in the future, with the engine in the car, access via the valve cover. Even if it is a pain to get both your hands and your tools into the small space available. Make sure you use new bolts the head, the old ones have stretched. Be careful when you remove the old gasket, the engine is all aluminium so it's easy to dig into the head or block. Sorry if I am stating the obvious

Good to hear that although we are in the minority, we are not alone! Loving a Subaru is something you do! Not explain

These engines all have a shorter stroke compared to their bore. That translates to crummy low rev torque, which is why they need to pull such "high" revs. It's also means that high revs are possible, like sticking with 1st 'til 6500rpm and staying in 2nd til 6000rpm. In the higher gears the torque drop off after 6000rpm becomes a problem and I usually shift around 5500rpm, which brings the revs back to the torque peak. Of course this is only when I am hurrying

I had a clunking noise, which would be loudest when I braked hard and suddenly. Replacing the transmission mount solved it. Worth a try, since these things do become softer with time and it's relatively easy/quick to replace. Certainly, you also want to check the heat shields, just cut them off if they are making trouble.

Apple, you need to take the entire hub off. Not difficult, but some bolts might put up a resistance. The tricky part is getting the old bearing race out...you need a hydraulic press.

Could be the knock sensor. Throttle response is dulled as long as the Check Engine light is on. There was a redesign of the sensor. The single wire connector should be white, if its grey then its the old model.

Get some axle stands and lift the car, preferably all four wheels at a time. Take the wheels off, and have some apply medium pressure to the brakes - engine off - while you check for leaks. The flexible hoses, where the join, the bleeder screws, around the pistons.

I am with you on the Rain-X ! Although I find it's not such a big advantage in salted winter conditions.

Don't forget the ones that run to the cabin heater!

Did you get a Mitsubishi alternator? Similar results for my car when the original alt. went south. Cured by the correct alt.

True, I'll start a new thread: How to Deal with Tailgaters Look for it under Off Topic

Thank you Ma-Fia Unfortunately my fellow Danish countrymen seem to like my Subaru so much that they have to get REAL CLOSE to it. Hitting the brakes is too dangerous. Sometimes I do tap the pedal and flash the brake lights to wake the tail-gater up. Most of the time I pull as far to the right as possible and indicate right and maybe slow down. Usually they pass by. Of course this means that I have to contend with them clogging up the next set of bends or roundabout. That's what really annoys me with these people, they follow so close like they're in hurry, and then they drive painfully slowly if the road bends. Of course, that is another often used tactic of mine: Someone gets close and I know we are approaching a roundabout. I stay where I am, and FLY through the roundabout, and they always seem to drop back (cant keep up) and stay there (now they are convinced I am nuts).

Torxx, do you drive a WRX? With bleeder screws on the outside of the caliper, accessible through the rims? I don't, and I need to take my wheels off to bleed the brakes.

Well, I would suggest a wheel rotation, so that you can rule out tyre wear. Rear wheel bearings on Subes are weaker, but fronts die at some stage too. My right rear bearing started a drone and it went on for months. One day it started to really DRONE and WHIRRRRR, albeit intermittently, and I booked the car in for a bearing replacement soon after. The risk of lock-up is there, but I think you will get plenty of warning.

There is the potential of a bearing getting so hot that it seizes and locks the wheel. This is extreme, and usually preceded by a lot of loud grinding/whirring noises, so keep your ears open, and start planning the bearing swap.

I can be difficult to judge distance accurately at high speed. The "Two Second Rule" is a little easier to use. It should take you two seconds to reach the point that the car in front is at.

The cross pattern is optimal, but sometimes it's easier to lift one end of the car at a time. As long as you bleed the fronts first, there shouldn't be any problems. Did the fluid come from a fresh, sealed container? Might try another fluid, Castrol DOT4 "Response" is the canine's testicles. If the problem persists, your MC piston seals are probably leaking.

By the way EuroB-rad - you live only a two hour drive from the most challenging race track on this planet: The Nürburgring, "Northern Loop" Nordschliefe! Meet you all there this summer

Flooding a car with a catalyst is a very bad idea, you might blow up the cat. Makes a big bang, and splits down the middle.

Ma-Fia, I just read that better mileage page. Sounds like it would work, because the ECU can't tell that it's getting a bogus signal. HOWEVER, I would not fool with the EFI system on my car. Running lean tends to raise combustion chamber temperatures, and who knows what that might lead to..