Setright

It could be time to replace the engine and transmission mounts. With age they get softer and allow too much movement, causing the jerking. Usually more prominent in lower gears though.

Does only happen when the engine is cold? COuld be piston slap. Which is noraml for a cold Sube engine. You might want to check that the filter box is closed properly.

There is one clip hiding in the middle of the grille, you need a narrow screwdriver to undo it. Work out how to release it by examining the other clips - they are the same. BUT! Before undoing the grille, there is a threaded rubber stopper for the bonnet at each front corner of the engine room. These can also adjust the height at which the bonnet rests when closed. Just turn the rubber stopper clockwise to lower it, and CCW to raise it.

What's rattling? Is it a panel filter?

You would probably be best off coating the drain plugs in high-temp resistant paint. Each their own colour of course! Make a simple card that explains what is what: Engine oil BLUE, Tranny oil RED... The Subaru filters I get - from Japan - have ENGINE and TRANSMISSION written on the bottom of them.

Yeah, the lever on the side is there to lift the steering wheel all the way up to make entry and exit easier. The lever under the column controls the actual height.

The 2.5 does have 30 horses more, but why pass up the opportunity to get your hands on the fabulous EJ22? I still miss mine. Sentimentalities aside, the EJ22 will take a beating and love it. The 2.5 could turn into a money pit. If you do go for the 2.5 fit some thin metal gaskets instead of the squishy stock gaskets.

"Hidden" screws that you can find by looking up from below.

The hot top, cold bottom hose is a sign of bad circulation. This can be caused by blockages, worn/loose water pump impeller, or "vapour-lock" in the water pump. Vapour-lock can be caused by compression and exhaust gases leaking into the coolant, across a tiny leak in the head gasket. The pressure drop across the pump has a tendency to expand the bubbles and when enought of them collect in the pump, there is no circulation. Not what you wanna hear is it? By all means, flush your radiator, but start thinking about replacing head gaskets. You might be able to bide your time by fitting a higher pressure radiator cap. I believe your model is 0.9 Bar. Newer models are 1.1 Bar. Might be worth getting a brand new 1.1 from a dealer to see if you can control the overheating until money drops from the sky and you can afford the HG work. Dang it! Why must head gaskets fail???

Dang it! I just did a long write up of pros and cons on suspension setup and the internet ate it! Heres a short version: Impreza chassis is very stiff already, only if you intend to fit very stiff springs will you need a strut tower brace. For AutoX you should start by fitting an adjustable rear sway bar. It will allow you kill the roll induced understeer, by balancing the car. Lowering an all McPherson strut setup will induce more roll. Just go for stiffer dampers, and leave your ride height alone. After fitting dampers, get an alignment, and get as close to -1 degree camber on the front as possible. (Stock is 0.0) Rear camber should be similar, but easy to get, as this is close to stock.

M12 x 1.25 pitch, 60 degree seat.

Sounds like a head gasket failure. At twelve years of age, that's not only possible, but quite fair enough. Take the car to someone else.

Try this method: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=21681&highlight=Coolant+replacement

95Nm. I would recommend torqueing them up in stages, like 30Nm, 60Nm, 95Nm. In a criss-crossing "star" pattern. Preferably with the wheels off the ground and someone pressing the brake pedal. This ensure the best centering of the wheels, which means zero vibes at high speed - like over 100mph.

Agreed on the filter. Replace that first. Then consider replacing the fuel pressure regulator (easy acess in engine room) before tackling the fuel pump.

There is an o-ring on the pipe, no plan gasket between filler and rocker cover.

90% sure they will.

The whole pipe or just the screw cap? I am fairly sure the cap will fit straight over. If you do get the entire pipe, make sure you replace the o-ring seal on it.

Bearing noise usually fluctuates with load, ie. turning.

I would also use a synth oil. However, I don't think mineral oil would spell disaster. The most important thing is to idle engine and let the turbo cool before shutting off after a "hot" drive. Bear this in mind when you pull over for gas after a motorway cruise!

As long as you fill the filter, you'll be fine. Leave the throttle alone. If you want to crank without starting the ignition system, pull the cam and crank position sensors off.

Into your cylinders? Thats ok, maybe the problem was that it slipped past your piston rings?? :-) I am sure Durablend will be fine. Stick to the correct intervals.

Erm, no. Those two sensors are both for the coolant temp. One for your dashboard gauge, one for the ECU. Never had trouble with an oil pressure sensor on a sube before, so I don't know for sure where they are. However, if you poke around the top of the block you should be able to find it. It'll look like the water temp sensor thingy. (It's not the knock sensor that lives under the throttle body. Black ring.)

You may have knocked the wire off the oil pressure sending unit. Get under the bonnet and check all the connectors. An open connection to the sender will trigger the light.

My local authorised dealer uses aluminium washers for the oil pan plug. I always fit a new one. There is a small, but tell-tale, indentation in the old washer where the plug has mashed it. No problems yet. After 90k miles and 14 oil changes.