Setright

I hate to move us further off topic, but I can't help myself: Windchill only affects humans and animals, right? We have a capacity to shed heat to the cold air as it blows by. A metal engine block will only be cooled down to the ambient temperature.

Pump or maybe just the clutch on it.

Oh, check/clean/replace at 60k miles :-)

Yeah, it must have a PCV Valve. The thing to take note of when looking for it is that Subaru PCV systems work in "reverse" compared to most others. It draws fresh air in through the heads and mixes it with blowby in the crankcase and the valve draws from the crankcase. (There is one more fresh air mix from the filter just before the valve.)

I like to wear latex gloves. When I do oil changes!!

Me too!

1: Not sure about the legality issues, but you could change it more often, and have the dealer change the oil at the stated interval to keep your service book stamped. 2:Hmm, sorta answer your second question already. I would say that twice a year ought to be enough. Include the filter both times. If you detach the PCV hose that runs from crankcase to air-filter box you can check if you are chaning oil often enough. If this hose is starting to fill with sludge/snot/slime then you need up the intervals. 3:Synths are the business. I run Mobil 1, and have done so for a long time. Had a bad experince with Redline recently. Castrol RS is also good. Run the engine in on the oil that's in it. 600 miles should be enough to seat and seal everything. 4:Drain the oil via the pan plug. Fit a new washer and don't overtighten the plug - 40Nm/32ftlbs is enough. Fill the new oil filter with oil before installing it, this reduces the lag before full oil pressure is restored. (easy on a Sube since the filter screws on from the bottom!) 5:I like to stick with Subaru filters. I am sure that some aftermarket filters are just as good, but I can't be bothered to do the research. (By them all and dismantle and inspect. Plus, I don't have the equipment to pressure test them!) Above all, enjoy your Subaru ;-)

Just a technical note: Sounds like those were PCV hoses that were left disconnected. They scavange blowby gas from the crankcase, mainly for emissions purposes and explain why you had the oil and gas smell. I would also like to share my sympathy, as I know exactly how it feels to have laid down your hard-earned and gotten screwed by an authorised dealer.

From your symptoms I would also start by replacing the plug wires. Sube wires are good. NGK "V-Power" seem to please Sube engines. I found that my EJ22 was happy with Bosch "Ytrium". My newer EJ20 prefers NGK over both Bosch and Denso. Stay away from fancy multi-ground plugs, the direct ignition system doesn't seem to like them.

www.mintex.co.uk Far superior pads to EBC.

Check it out: Fog light is just above the left reverse light.

Hello all! It seems no-one has yet suggested that this NORMAL. My Sube's have always cranked for a little longer on cold starts. The colder the ambient temperature, the longer it cranks. I believe this is a good thing: The engine is priming itself, during cranking the oil pump is running and getting pressure up in the entire engine before the ignition system is allowed to actually start the engine. I do agree though, that a six year old battery could be showing signs of age. Depends very much on the conditions faced the battery is subjected to.

Thank you :-) Emotions are certainly running high now .....shedding a little tear ;-)

Strakes: Yes sir! The gear ratio is what makes slip occur in high gears. First is "easy" for the engine to pull, fifth is a strain. Powderhound: Glad your problem has subsided :-) Brus Brother: The adjustment thingy lives on the cable itself, where it attaches to the clutch fork in the engine room. Middle, rear, top. Two nuts locked together. With no pressure on the clutch pedal the cable should just rest inside the fork, with a little movement side-to-side. If it's pulling on the fork, that means is partially dis-enaging the clutch. A clutch that grabs high up the pedal travel is either a very tight cable, or a very worn clutch lining.

Sorry Subie Gal, UK and Euro Imprezas have TWO reverse lights. The fog light is driver side only, and built into the standard light cluster. Don't argue me on this one please. I own an Impreza.

Tadaaa! http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=21681&highlight=Coolant+Replacement

Oil can hang about in the rocker covers. The car must be on perfectly level ground to ensure an accurate reading.

Well, the cylinders are still lined with steel sleeves, and the piston rings are steel. With a bit of luck the alu piston and engine block won't be wearing out!

You could search for my "coolant replacement without the air bubbles" write up. It's taken me a while to refine the method, but it's quite easy and works every time. I do not believe that a small amount of air in the coolant system can take the blame for all the EJ25 problems. Certainly, local overheating would stress any block-gasket-head junction, but in the end it comes down to bad coolant passage design. Why isn't that air purged automatically by the overflow system?? I think the newer radiator designs (models from around year 2000 and up) have helped a lot in the air-purge department. That bulge on top, that the radiator hose connects to is now the highest point in the system. Even higher than the cabin heat exchanger in my Impreza. This is a BIG help.

You bet felipe :-)

Just when you thought it was safe to scoot under the car.... Fumoto Valve! Coming soon...Only in Cinemas

600 miles will be enough. Most of the seating/wearing in actually happens within the first few hundred revolutions of the engine.Enjoy your Sube :-)

Yes, all the wheels, all the time. Very few true PERMANENT four wheel drive saloon cars out there. Most are just pretenders.

Run it for another 300 miles and make the switch to synthetic and add a little less than the owner's manual says. Don't forget to replace the oil filter too, and fill the new filter with as much oil as it will swallow before screwing it on. (This will speed up the oil delivery on the first start after the drain.) Drive, leave level overnight, and top off if necessary. (I prefer Mobil 1, but Castrol is also perfectly respectable. I had a BAD experience trying Redline. My car developed the infamous piston slap after running Redline for less than 100 miles. Switching back to Mobil 1 5W-50 could not cure it. DANG IT!)

Autoglym "Car Glass Polish" has never let me down. Gets all the wax and grime of the glass easily. www.autoglym.co.uk