Setright

Syeah! Like don't use a flame. A hair dryer is plenty!

Oh, and just in case you don't know already: The back seat needs to come out to allow access to the rear top strut bolts.

GC is the chassis code for the first generation Impreza sedan. BC is the...................................................Legacy sedan. I think you should look for struts and springs from a GC (or GF station car) Impreza if you wanna keep the strut swap easy. Legacy springs will not be matched for the lower weight of the Impreza, and handling/ride might be ackward.

Intake and exhaust mods will free up a little bit of power, say 10hp on a good day, and that might enough to give you the edge. The STi motor and tranny will fit, but it's not worth the effort. There is 2.5 XT Forester now and that aint slow.

It's a headgasket failure. For sure. And as MTsmiths says: How was the car towed?

Heating up most adhesives will make it easier to loosen them. Also, if you really wanna break down the stuff, let it sit under a UV lamp for a night. Of course, you need to pull it off slowly if your going to avoid breaking the glass.

Yes, it bolts onto the transmission housing.

That and the EG33 is a six cylinder. Would it fit? Certainly not a straight swap. Anyway, you did ask for an EJ engine, not EG :-)

Test: Idling engine, let the clutch pedal up slowly. Don't touch the throttle. Some vibes will be normal, but any bucking means a bad clutch. It seems to go away when the engine is warm, so make sure you get to test drive on a completely cold engine.

The factory manual says to remove the two engine mount bolts and raise the engine. It also says to remove the exhaust manifolds, but if you can get clearance without doing this, it will save you a lot of hassle trying to seal the manifolds later. Be aware that there is a long tube that sticks into the pan, and that the pan has a lot of internal plates, meaning you need to wiggle the pan forward, down and out.

Internet shopping isn't all it's cracked up to be.

Has no-one hear listened closely to George Carlin?? The planet is FINE! If mother earth doesn't like us, she'll kill us off. It's just human arrogance that leads us to believe that we are in control of the environment.

If you get it towed, make sure all four wheels leave the ground! FWD fuse is not enough. AWD must be lifted onto a flatbed.

Follow the clutch cable from the gearbox, toward the firewall. If it makes a connection to an extra part, that involves another spring and a housing that has brake pipes coming out of it, you have the hill-holder.

It's not just a question of what the electricity costs, but how much fuel you are actually saving because the engine is warm. Well worth it!

I hate parking in the street. Couldn't plug in a heater even if I had one. (Fuel powered heaters scare me. Not so much the concept, but the dealers insist on installing them, and ain't no-one but me messing about with my fuel and coolant systems!)

Not sure about production. It's a 2.5 liter turbo, 211bhp and evenly spread torque. Impreza STi underpinnings.

EJ22 has plenty of low end torque. I don't know if the EJ25 or EJ253 have more, but I would prefer an EJ22.

To clarify my point: The offset is in relation to the CENTER of the rim. Nevermind the absolute width, it's the offset that denotes the length of the lever that "carries" wheel forces into the hub.

I disagree with Scott.

The best, cheapest, most useful mod is redo the car's wheel alignment. The front camber is 0 from the factory. Have it adjusted to -0.5 degrees. And wave goodbye to understeer!

Keep in mind that stainless steel has a tendency to "ring" and will the exhaust noise louder because of this, even with a silencer.

Here in salty-during-the-six-month-winter Denmark, Sube exhausts are held in high esteem for their ability to last 10 years! In a coastal region, that might be shorter of course...

Jacek, more rear inside wear can result from two things: Too much toe-in, and the tyre drags. This usually gives small but visible ridges on the tread blocks. Too much negative camber: Stock at no load is -1.0 in the rear. Heavy loads will lower the rear and increase inner wear. Wear will be smooth. Front outer wear can also be a toe problem, but it often stems from compensating for wrong rear toe! The manual I had for my 1990 Legacy also stated the outer front wear could be caused by "excessive speed in turns". A small amount of negavtive camber will compensate nicely for this.

Whirring/buzzing is normal. You can sometimes hear it at start-up in the moring, as the system runs a self-diagnostic test. Mine also keeps whirring for a short while after activation on ice. It also starts whirring as soon as I the touch pedal afterwards, I suppose in preparation for more "hard work". There is some sort of adaptive programming in there, and if the system decides the car is on really slippery stuff it doesn't wait around.