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So the rear journal isn't good either. I would describe the front journal as trash where the cam had a definite wobble and the aluminum is creeping up the shaft. The AVLS ports look ok, other than a bit of sediment in the filter screen. The engine was run low on oil at one point and had developed a slight knock at idle so I was leaning toward a JDM replacement anyway, but this clinches it. The oil pump was resealed at the previous head rebuild.

Cam is broken The far end of the cam (non sprocket side) isn't seized, or at least it isn't now. Spins free, supported by the end and center journals. Probably seized at some point. Sprocket side journals are 'remodeled.' Will take apart the AVLS assembly and look at the oil ports. top view passenger side head broken cam cam wear cam fractured non sprocket side cam journal cam journal sprocket side center cam journal cam cap sprocket side cam slot

Agree. Given the wobble at the sprocket side I'm pretty sure there is damage to the head.

Could be given what I found. Got the cam sprocket off. The head of the cam itself has a wobble. The intake ports in the head were half full of fuel, valves are tight apparently and certainly not moving. No cylinder compression from lack of valve movement.

236k miles. Both heads rebuilt around 180k after we got it for cheap (tbelt break). Engine was replaced by previous owner, history not known. Sudden onset of running bad. May or may not have been some winter joyriding. Wondering about oil starvation? Runs very rough, engine is shaking, stalling at idle. cylinder misfire codes are not new. Able to limp home. At the end look for the cam wobble Tried a few quick fixes but no major improvement. The timing belt was off one tooth on the pass side cam. Reset the timing and runs better but still shaking, low power and still stalls randomly. Oil puddling on ground underneath on pass side from tbelt cover between oil pump and oil filter. Replaced the crank seal but probably also cam seal leak. CEL flashing intermittently, probably misfires. New Diamond coil (existing diamond coil didn't look bad at all). No improvement. Changed plug wires to new NGK (from existing NGK). New NGK plugs. FR5AP-11. A bit of chunky carbon on one plug (either 1 or 3) and #4 was loose possibly causing low compression and shaking. Now running with naked timing belt so everything is visible. Able to turn the timing belt with a socket on the cam bolt, but it doesn't feel loose at all. Cam sprocket is wobbling while running. Cam oil seal is compromised and oil is puddling below the cam. Oil coating the belt and flinging around the engine bay. Is the cam itself out of round? This seems impossible. Maybe the cam journals are gouged out. Car is knocking. Bottom end problems? Finally got the car on a trailer after sitting in a parking lot up in Michigan for a bit. Back in the garage. Just now checking compression after finding a new ride for the daughter, of course a Subaru. Cylinder compression is good on 1, 2 and 4 (220, 205, 200) but ZERO on cyl 3. Plugs look ok, not oily. Will pull the engine and check out the head. Probably the valves got grenaded on #3 or worse. Car hit a deer in 2024, needing a bunch of sheet metal replaced in the front. Tbelt cover was cracked. Wondering if the cam sprocket took an impact that was missed.

New outback (to me) with non functioning power liftgate Liftgate just beeps but won't open when pressing the open button on the fob. Tried the reset trick by disconnecting the battery and shorting the battery leads together to reset the system, didn't work. Toyed with the option of converting to manual liftgate cylinders but we still need a functioning latch. The manual liftgate latch will not fit in the stock powered liftgate actuator position (non compatible mechanically). Also tried bypassing the touch sensors in the liftgate but this did not help. Disconnected the touch sensor connectors (two pin, left and right) and checked continuity across the sensors. Opening the liftgate (relieves pressure on the touch sensors) and both sensors should read 10k ohms. Remove the left sided lower touch sensor (two screws and a plastic plunge keeper that needs to be popped out). The lower touch sensor has a mating connector for the upper touch sensor, so both are daisy chained together. The upper touch sensor does not come out easily, apparently it is glued in place and if removed, needs to be replaced (according to the FSM) May spoof the system with a 10k ohm resistor across both touch sensor connectors. This is just for a test, as operating in this mode is risking someone (or something) getting trapped between the liftgate and the body) BOJACK 1000 Pcs 25 Values Resistor Kit 1 Ohm-1M Ohm with 5% 1/2W Carbon Film Resistors Assortment Amazon $15 A new liftgate actuator wasn't in the budget so opted to troubleshoot below. With parts and test equipment still came out ahead. Latch and Actuator Tailgate (power Rear Gate) Part Number: 63032AL000 $350 Remove the plastic access cover on the liftgate to show the innards on power up. Video shows the system searching for the home position and not finding it and defaulting to the liftgate latch open position. As a result, the system 'searches' for home, and not finding it, may leave the system in another state, such as unlatched Video of liftgate actuator The green 'sector' limit switch (with the lever pressed in, in closed position) defines the home position but if this switch is failing the system won't work. Schematic of power supply and switches One switch (OFF ON) is used to bump power on and off. The other switch (OPEN CLOSE) allows reversing the polarity of the motor leads and therefore motor direction. I only had two position switches DPST on hand so this is what I used. A single momentary DPST switch would work better, allowing momentary ON/OPEN ON/CLOSE with the default position OFF (center). Rigging an external power supply at 12 volts on current limit (guessed at 3 amps) with manual switches to simulate the battery and control module allows actuating the liftgate open (fully counterclockwise on the gear) and closed (fully clockwise) Power supply doesn't have to be fancy, just the basics but this is what was available (don't need USB) DC Power Supply Variable, 0-32V 0-10A Switching Bench Power Supply with 20W USB & Type-C Quick-Charge, Encoder Coarse & Fine Adjustment Knob, Output Switch, 4-Digit LED Display - SPS-3010V https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0DDPVDWPZ?ref_=ppx_hzod_title_dt_b_fed_asin_title_0_0 Video of bench power supply testing Replacing the power liftgate switch. Drilled out the "sector" limit switch aluminum post using a 3/16" bit. The bit slid around requiring several position changes and finally tearing off the remaining bit with linemans pliers. Then used the pliers to shear the post leaving the aluminum nub behind which popped out easily. Now we have a 0.24" thick switch body and a 0.07" hole that needs to be drilled out to 1/8" to allow a fastener to secure the new switch. Have to remove the motor assembly (3 bolts) to allow the M3 fastener to fit. M3x12mm hex bolt is 0.118" which should just fit inside the mounting hole of the switch (0.12") 2240PCS Metric Screw Assortment,M2-M5 Metric Screw Kit, Hex Socket Metric Bolts, Metric Machine Screws 12.9 Grade Alloy Steel,Black Zinc Plated,Free Allen Head Wrench Amazon $24 New limit switch. Panasonic ABJ363861 SWITCH SNAP ACTION SPST-NO 0.1A 125V $16 shipped from DigiKey Used solder sleeve to hook it up. Replacing the limit switch allows the system to detect the home position with the orange pawl on the gear engaging the green limit switch lever and closing the limit switch contacts. New limit switch Initial position of the actuator gear was max clockwise after bench test (which is where the system had left it after the failed initialization due to the bad switch). This position caused two issues The boot sequence no longer ran the initialization the same The system just beeped three times. No motor activity Why isn't known The manual unlock lever doesn't work in this position since the actuator lever is forcing the latch into the lock position Used the power supply and switches to run the actuator gear counterclockwise just enough to be able to manually open the latch Cycling the system power (battery disconnect) boots the system into a good state and the working limit switch is able to allow the system to find home, which consists of the system resting state with the limit switch closed (limit lever snapped shut) Test after resetting the system after reconnecting the battery This is the first powered liftgate opening test after replacing the limit switch Video Hope this helps. Bonus points if you have read this far down and are still awake.

VVT will flag codes ending up in limp mode. The mechanism is kind of cool if you end up diving into the valve cover. Yes the oil pressure sensors leak and make a mess on top of the engine, but not expensive or hard to replace. the 3.0 h6 is a great engine presume the 3.0r is the same. we're running a jdm h6 replaced at 300k now into 400k miles on the 02 h6 outback. lots of hex bolts on the timing cover. had fuel leaks on the rails/injectors just replaced orings/seals/lines/dampeners dang expensive. had a hard steering line oring fail on the rack but what do you expect after 25 years.

http://opposedforces.com/parts/ back online. It goes out periodically.

Going to try the cover and the bumper too if it will fit. The taillight is only 3/8" pushed in past the hatch on the left side. The right side taillight is flush with the hatch. Maybe try hooking into the trailer hitch but how to mimic the right amount of force that bent it inwards.

07 outback manual wagon base model, 2.5L, 148k miles. Hit from behind on left side while stopped at a light. Crushed the aluminum bumper on the left. Damaged the trailer hitch and the left side frame rail a bit. Hatch opens and closes but there is a slight offset in the latch. With this amount of damage the car has been totaled. 2nd totaled car for us in the past two months. Car runs and drives ok. On impact, the car was pushed from behind into the next car ahead. No apparent front end body damage but the PS pump sprung a leak which has been fixed (new return side o-ring). The impact sheared a muffler hanger on each side, replaced with spares. https://photos.app.goo.gl/SusTyPs8RqCmTwBA8 How repairable (and necessary) is the frame rail and rear panel under the bumper? It appears that subaru does not sell any body panels for the back end / tire well / frame rail. I could grab an aluminum bumper and cover easily from a parts yard but doubt that it will easily bolt up without replacing or unbending sheet metal or cutting new holes into the bumper. The accident happened in TN so there will be issues with a salvage title / possible re-inspection. Where to get parts? Not sure I'm ready to buy a parts car and have it towed or if this job is even conducive to harvesting the needed body panels. Just learned from my recent front end deer crash that my neighbor is keen to weld, and I'm kind of interested in welding all of a sudden given my track record with totaled cars.

The accident was out of state and my insurance company said that it wouldn't be reportable to Tennessee. So I'm hoping that I don't need a salvage title and all that headache. Car is in southern Michigan right now so that could be a mess.

Yeah I had initially pulled the radiator support forward by hand just to get it back on the road. It's pretty flimsy. I ended up deciding to weld new rad support figuring that there was probably some lateral deviation from all the twisting and crimping, and the hood latch would be wonky.

Car is done! Kept it two tone for the win. Purchased new sheet metal including radiator support, center hood stay, and right/left hand radiator panels for about $160. These come painted (black) from Subaru. Or just cut them out of a donor. I counted just over 20 spot welds for the total weld job. Didn't have to completely remove the fenders to access the weld points for the radiator support, just moved them aside. Removing the bent metal wasn't hard using a 3/8" spot welder hole saw removal tool and a drill motor to punch through the spot welds. For the rebuild, these welds are beyond the harbor freight 240V "pinch" spot welder in my opinion due to the lower section essentially welding to a tube. My neighbor has a HF MIG welder that did an excellent job welding the new metal in place. Just cover the whole engine first with fiberglass cloth to avoid hot slag melting the harness. Before removing any metal I marked the outline of the pieces to help line things up. Having the headlights in place helped line up the two radiator panels (actually they should be called condenser panels) prior to welding. The hood latch was aligned with the hood and clamped prior to welding. After welding, put the condenser/radiator/headlights/bumper/bumper cover back on.

08 running the 07 pump doing fine after 500 miles. 08 stock pump failure could be coincidence/foil scrap/or running without alt belt, which is probably just general good sense to avoid in the future. 07 running 08 pump also fine after driving around town for a few days.

Thanks. Yes, codes cleared after reset. Swapped out the stock fuel pump from my 07. Started right up. Runs without cutting out. There's a fuel temp sensor in the fuel pump, flagged a code when I disconnected the cable. The 07 pump doesn't have the foil scrap. Going to remove it and give the suspect 08 pump a go in the 07. Oddly enough the three little plastic feet on the 08 pump were stuck to the bottom of the gas tank.