avk

The seals stay in the retainers and the bearings come out to the outside. There also are O-rings inder the retainer flanges to seal the bearing bores. When an inner CV (DOJ) boot needed replacement, I also bought an axle seal and an O-ring just in case, but the seal looked good so I left it alone. It looks like a straightforward job as long as you don't change the adjustment, but better to hear from someone who had done it.

I guess there shouldn't be much lateral play because the side bearings are pre-loaded, but don't know enough to tell if this is something to worry about. The seals and bearings are held in by the threaded retainers. The preload is controlled by shimming washers and the exact position of the retainer itself. Adjusting may be the trickiest part, the manual describes it.

Are you referring to the rotational play or the sideways movement? Rotational seems normal.

I believe cruise control was available as a kit for 1st gen., like it was for 2d. It may be hard to find now. Try to get the part number first.

axgutt: Can you tell if there a sticker underside the hood that says "OBDII certified"?

frag: I didn't need to clean the IAC but only read about it as a possible preventive maintenance item. I don't know what the actual IAC control algorithm is. Could it be that it stays partially open at all times? The GM cleaner should be available mail-order under Delco name.

The manual has the procedure for cleaning the IAC valve. In short, it says to disconnect the IAC air hose from the intake duct, keep the engine speed at 2000 rpm and spray the cleaner into the hose. The Subaru manual specifically calls for GM cleaner and gives a part number. Also, a new IAC valve would cost at least $300. Inside it has two solenoids whose duty cycle is controlled by ECU. So this may be a good time to get a $20 manual from techinfo.subaru.com.

Replacement windshields usually carry a lifetime warranty against installation defects. Maybe it's only to the original customer ("as long as you own the vehicle"), but since you have the receipt, at least inquire about it.

To isolate the cause, you can temporarily seal the top of the windshield with tape. The map light bracket is welded to the header rail, so the water might get into the light if the top edge is leaking. Is the windshield original?

To the left of the steering column under the lower trim panel, in a flat metal box with a good number of wires connected to it on the left. You can see it from below, but for access, remove the panel. If you have a cruise control, the controller box is in front of TCU on the same bracket.

It might be different with Canadian vehicles, especially if they (or your particular car) were manufactured later in the production run. I know some '95 Imprezas actually corresponded to '96 lineup. At the very least, one can say that among '95 North American 2.2 MT models, there certainly were those w/o OBDII. Also, there were some differences in engine control systems between AT and MT. For example, AT models had EGR system and manifold pressure sensor. And ECU does communicate with TCU. One can imagine that in general, an accurate emission control, which is the purpose of OBDII, is easier to implement with AT and perhaps that's why the system was phased in beginning with those models.

1: I believe all except '94 Loyale and Justy. 2: Option in '95, standard except MT Brighton in '96-'97, no 1.8l for '98. 3: 2.2l+AT is the drivetrain configuration that had OBDII in '95.

The torque applied to the rubber layer is the same as applied to the bolt, that is in the 100 lb*ft range (or say 150 N*m, but sure you are used to ft*lb for a long time now). This is in fact of the same order as the torque in the drive train when accelerating moderately. But I'm ready to accept that the pulley is over-engineered enough for that not to be a problem.

The chain wrench grabs on the rim of the pulley, so with the crank pulley there is stress on the rubber layer and it's likely much higher than in normal service when driving the accessories. Might this be something to worry about? I plan on doing the 60,000 mile service next spring.

Those special wrenches aren't necessary, but I was wondering if they are even available. I believe there is no hex section on 2.2 camshafts, at least on those with hydraulic lifters.

Q. about the special tools: did the dealer just have them in stock, or they ordered them for you? Subaruparts lists those part numbers as discontinued.

The manual does say to remove the diff.

That the roll pin should be driven from the chamfered side of the hole is actually mentioned in the service manual. But if it's an old pin being put back in, it may go either way because it's already compressed. With a new one, you'd feel more difference. Anyway, the easier it goes in, the better for the bearings and seals in the differential.

In California.

I'd second the Autozone suggestion, to remove any uncertainty about the scanner. Their scanner (Actron brand) does work with my '95.

The ECT sensor has a straight thread and a copper sealing washer, so the tape shouldn't be necessary. A new washer is included with the replacement part. The FSM doesn't mention the tape, although aftermarket manuals do.

I understand those covers sometimes can be repaired by rewinding the spring, similar to window blinds, but no first-hand experience here.